punisher_1982 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I'm planning on going for a Jamma setup and a 60 in 1 board for the cab I'm building. Just wondering what brand of arcade power supply I should use? Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narf_ Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 gamedude has them cheap as AA store specials Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Pubstuff Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 not wanting to gamedude out of a sale, but why not just get a old computer power supply which are quite often free? i retract the above if you are going to use a chassis and arcade monitor ... if using a pc monitor, the above applies :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MangledLeg Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 gamedude has them cheap as AA store specials +1 If all you're doing is stuff like the 60-in-1, just grab one of his. Personally, I'm wondering where you grab the jucier 20A PSUs, I'm on the lookout for a Sun or similar to keep my Model 2 and Model 3 games happy (currently using a hacked ATX PSU from a PC which is doing the job for the Model 3, and using my 16A Peter Chou for JAMMA stuff; would rather consolidate into a single unit though). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lien_Zed Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 not wanting to gamedude out of a sale, but why not just get a old computer power supply which are quite often free? i retract the above if you are going to use a chassis and arcade monitor ... if using a pc monitor, the above applies :) this thread will be of interest if you want to go the pc psu route http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=29568 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewitson Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Do NOT use a PC PSU if you are planning on using JAMMA boards as well as the 60 in 1. I highly recommend the Huai power supplies, Happ are good too. I wouldn't go with any of the cheap chinese ones (Min Dong, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punisher_1982 Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 I'm planning on using a universal chassis from jomac and old tv tube. So I think Ill end up grabing one of gamedudes powers supplies rather then using an old pc psu. Thanks for the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lien_Zed Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Do NOT use a PC PSU if you are planning on using JAMMA boards as well as the 60 in 1. im curious as to why not? :unsure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bally Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 You can not regulate the +5V supply ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lien_Zed Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 You can not regulate the +5V supply ! aaahhhhh i see thanks:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jomac Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 You can not regulate the +5V supply ! Yeah this is a real pain in the butt !! have also noticed that a lot of PC power supplies don,t have -5 volts anymore ( necessary for sound on many original game boards ) , most don't have 110/240 selector anymore , they are pain to mount unless you make up a bracket and there are no screw terminals so this means lots of cutting and joining or re-pinning. They are great for PC's though :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewitson Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) Yeah with my first supergun I used a PC PSU that didn't have a -5v so I hooked up a 7905 (-5v regulator). After going to the trouble of doing that the capacitors in the PSU started making a really loud noise, lol. PC power supplies (unless you go for Antec, Thermaltake, etc) are cheap pieces of unrealiable shit. Don't risk damaging your PCB's with them. Edit: Jomac: I was under the impression the switch was removed because the units these days work on both 110V and 240V. Is this incorrect? Edited January 18, 2010 by Hewitson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lien_Zed Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 cool, thanks for all the feedback about the psu issues. i have learnt something new again:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now