Darksoul Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Here's a few pics of my DIY #555 LEDs. These were made using vero board (project board) from Jaycar. LEDs used are 6000 mcd, 15 degree angle. On the smaller inserts I am suitably impressed. The larger inserts (rafts) show a slight beam effect, with the edges a little dull. The camera actually makes it look worse than they are. The 6000mcd LEDs give an excellent level of light, probably half as bright again as normal globes. I consider that to be adequate. I don't think there would be a need to go to 9000 - 15000 mcd, far too bright and distracting. Future models will be made with 6000mcd and wider angle LEDs to overcome this problem. These "ghetto" style lights are just prototypes, each cost about 70c (I paid about 60 cents an LED at the time) to make. When I get serious, I'll be using SMD resistors and etched PCB (I have ample scrap laying around). To top it all off, my LED supplier has just got in some nice cheap 6000mcd LEDs for 30 cents!. So cost for the real lights will be even less. I estimate that with 2 blokes working together over beer, I could make about 4 a minute (1 to cut the etched board, the other to solder). So under 50 cents all up to make a DIY #555 LED. This design only works one way in the socket. I put the machine into light test mode, if they don't work inserted one way, just remove and rotate 180 degrees. They also only work on a DC circuit, but feature lamps on Bally/Williams are all DC (90's games) as far as I understand, and on most earlier machines. GI is generally AC though. http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/pics/led1.jpg Image 1. Vero board cut into strips, the tracks are conveniently spaced so they fit snugly into the #555 globe holders. http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/pics/led2.jpg Image 2. Strips need to stick out about 10mm once firmly pressed into the globe holders. Marked and cut. They can stick out slightly less if you want but 10mm means they are no longer than what a normal incandescent bulb is. Makes them easier to pull out too. http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/pics/led3.jpg Image 3. Front, back and inserted view of the LEDs. Notice the "ghetto" styling. http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/pics/led4.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/pics/led5.jpg Image 4 and 5. Fitted to a WH2O on the 4 advance raft orange insert. These inserts look a bit more yellowish that those with a normal globe. This is because normal globes produce a white/yellow light, keeping the inserts more orange. Change in color of the insert is again shown on the "V" and "E" ("I" and "R") have normal globes behind them. These inserts are clear, not colored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AskJacob Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 To fix that "beam" effect (because they are 15 degree leds) you can sand/file the LED tops flat - that removes the lens from the LED, making it more of a point source of light (with about 140 degree beam). Nice little hack you have there. Cheap and consistent quality LEDs can be had here (you can even order 140 degree ones to start with) : http://www.ledsales.com.au Warm white LEDs whilst costing a little more look more like an incandescant globe and work well in white, yellow and orange inserts. Some "cool white" leds make yellow inserts go green! I have not found a suitable amber LED for orange inserts, but the warm white works quite well. Cheers Jacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darksoul Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Yep, I use LEDSALES. I'm buying the 6000mcd 50 degree ones at 30 cents. Tried sanding the tops of an LED flat but got a dark spot in the middle. I think I could overcome it though by sanding with 400, 800, 1200 and 2000grit and then polishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Moderator stuba Posted January 28, 2009 Super Moderator Share Posted January 28, 2009 you are a creative one. hope you never get hold of any plutonium..:p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmake Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 This looks quite interesting, I may have to try knocking up some ghetto LEDs myself. How do coloured inserts with a coloured LED? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ando77 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Nice Job DS ;) Hope the project will move forward and kick ass, Great Aussie LEDS would be Tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbak Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Nice work DS :041: What resistor value are they as I can't quite make out the colour of the stripes? and did you find that changing resistor value makes the LED brighter or dimmer? I know that the wrong resitor will mean the LED won't last as long & I'm going to try making some of these myself but need to know what value resistors to get cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AskJacob Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 This site has some help to take the pain out of using LEDs: Has a nifty calculator for resistors. http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_info.htm Cheers Jacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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