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Swapping fliptronic 2 boards


jono

Question

Hi guys, I believe I have a problem with the Fliptronic 2 board on my Doctor Who.

 

My Roadshow is currently pulled apart and boards are readily available.

 

My question, can I swap the Fliptronic 2 boards between these machines? The part number in the manuals are slightly different with roadshow looking like a newer revision.

 

Doctor Who part # A-15472

Roadshow part # A-15472-1

 

Cheers guys

Edited by jono
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I don't see why not as those two part numbers are still Fliptronics 2 board sets the only difference is a 50v cap C2 I think is removed but should still both work exactly the same. You should be able to compare them. Why do you think its a board problem?
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Awesome, thanks for the feedback guys.

 

The flipper in Doctor Who is fluttering and won't hold. I've cleaned flipper optos, swapped opto board and cleaned the EOS and checked coil diodes so a board problem seems to be the next thing to try and eliminate.

Edited by jono
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You have a broken coil wire, The flipper coil HOLD wire is broken (secondary winding).

Good call, I was thinking the exact same thing and had this happen on a TZ. An easy test is press the flipper button and if you can easily push it down whilst energised then its probably ably the hold in coil winding.

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The board swap didn't resolve the issue.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

You have a broken coil wire, The flipper coil HOLD wire is broken (secondary winding).

 

I can't see any broken wires onto the coil tabs. I swapped the coil with one from my Roadshow and the issue remains.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Good call, I was thinking the exact same thing and had this happen on a TZ. An easy test is press the flipper button and if you can easily push it down whilst energised then its probably ably the hold in coil winding.

 

Tried this as well. The issue seems intermittent. I wasn't able to push flipper down but then I'll play a game and sometimes it'll hold and sometimes it won't.

 

The issue that I'm trying to resolve is that the flipper flutters or quivers. When this occurs the flipper isn't responsive or is only partially responsive and/or weak.

 

To date I've done the following:

* Swapped flipper opto board

* Swapped flipptronic board

* Tested flipper coil diodes

* Swapped flipper coil

 

Any other ideas on where problem is and how to fix it?

Edited by jono
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Re-solder the wires to the coil. Check for breaks in the wires leading to the coil in the flipper area. You do this by seeing if you can stretch them without putting to much pressure on the terminals themselves. If the wire can be stretched, you have a break under the insulation.
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With the wires removed what are the readings in Ohms of each winding & what is the coil's part number. We need to confirm you have the correct coil & that the impedance is correct. Also as Autosteve said while the wires are disconnected pull on the wire to see if a wire is broken under the insulation. Lastly check the Fliptronic plug connections for breaks as well.
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if its only one flipper and not all its not going to be a cold solder joint on a fuse or the high voltage line so instead follow the thin ground wire on the coil as everything switches to ground and check all solder and connector points if its flakey it just might be a solder joint or tarnished connection that fails under prolonged use follow along the grounding circiut of that coil. It cant be the header pins or driver tranistors as a board swap has proven this already as with the coil swapout too Edited by hotty
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Thanks for all the responses. I probably won't get a chance to follow up until early next week. I'll report back with progress. Fingers crossed I can get this sorted soon. Cheers

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

if its only one flipper and not all its not going to be a cold solder joint on a fuse or the high voltage line so instead follow the thin ground wire on the coil as everything switches to ground and check all solder and connector points if its flakey it just might be a solder joint or tarnished connection that fails under prolonged use follow along the grounding circiut of that coil. It cant be the header pins or driver tranistors as a board swap has proven this already as with the coil swapout too

 

Yeah, it is generally fine for a game or 2 before the issue starts so it seems like a bad connection under load or partially broken wire.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I'm starting to suspect a break in the harness somewhere. Might be easier just to run a new wire to the coil hold tab.

 

Hi mate, which tab is the coil load tab?

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The issue now seems to be resolved.

 

The issue was associated with the flipper opto interrupter gap. The gap was so small when the flipper button was fully pressed that sometimes the opto beams would be broken for a moment by a negligible change in flipper button pressure or maybe cabinet vibration. Weird that the issue occurred on two sets of opto boards so flipper button itself may have been a contributing factor. Interrupter gap has been widened and issue now seems to have been resolved.

 

Thanks to all who provided assistance and advice. Cheers

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