The punkin's in Trouble Again With Repairs Thread.

Sorry Doug, did not realise that was your business. I ordered through you mate, thank you

 

It’s not. It’s @markc business. I’m just a ghost in the machine that makes things move in the night

Gotcha, thanks for the help in any case. looking forward to getting it up and running again.

Magic is alive again, thanks to @madal and @wiredoug .

 

Couldn't have figured it out myself or found the part. Also noticed a wire broken off a switch nearby and was able to fix that as well.

 

Have ten machines here now all functioning well.:o:cool:

 

It’s not. It’s @markc business. I’m just a ghost in the machine that makes things move in the night

 

yes you are a ghost !

Had a pinsound card sitting here waiting for Tales from the Crypt and went to install it but i can't get the four ****ing philips head screws out that hold the old one in.

Dunno why phillips heads were ever invented but these feel like they are locktited in. Tried using a hammer on the end of the screwdriver while turning but not even looking like it's going to work.

 

Any ideas besides smashing the old board to bits?

A Dremel bit and grind the head off it?

 

Then pliers to remove the thread?

 

- Con

If you have one of those little gas/butane lighter torch things then fire it on the head of the screw and let it heat up. That'll release the loctite.

Try the heat thing

Or wait till I get up there. Dont butcher it yet

Hmmmm hammer and pcbs, never entered my mind to use that combination lol. Get a soldering iron and heat the screw that way you don't cook the board hopefully.

If the screw head isn't flush, vice grips or pliers on the head. Or, hacksaw a slot right across the head and use a flat head screw drive. Acetone or nail polish remover will melt Loktite but you need to get it to the thread. Don't use a hammer unless you are hitting an impact driver with it. Also make sure you are using the correct Phillips head screw driver. They do come in a couple of sizes. IE... a number 3 and not a number 1 or vice versa.

Your going to need to learn these tricks because sooner or later your collection may include a Williams system 9-11.;)

There's no way to get a hacksaw or anything in to cut a slot. I'll try the soldering iron thing.

Ran into a couple of other problems yesterday, one of which i could use some tips on.

I haven't started pulling it apart to have a look yet, but the left hand bumpers on my new Whirlwind started playing up yesterday. It started when all the lights didn't seem to show on the yellow bumpers and then i could hear and feel one firing multiple times without the ball being near it.

I'm thinking it's either a loose plug or a switch adjustment, but i have not pulled a bumper to bits before so don't know where the switch is or what it looks like.

 

Also have a fluttering flipper on Tommy, doing some research now on what that is but suspect it may be the same problem i had a few weeks ago with Genie (broken coil wire) as the symptoms seem the same. It does say it has solid state flippers when i researched it though, so have to figure out what that means.

 

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0

With the Whirlwind take off the glass and start a game, then lightly thump the playfield to see if the pop bumper fires. If it does the switch gap is touching. Also if the lights come on a bad solder joint could be the reason too.

thanks mate, where is the switch? Can i get at it from under the playfield or do i have to pull the assy apart?

thanks mate, where is the switch? Can i get at it from under the playfield or do i have to pull the assy apart?

 

Pop bumper switches are located under the playfield. The ball rolls over a skirt, which moves a spoon under the playfield that will activate the switch once it's moved enough.

 

 

I did a full write up on a Whirlwind I worked on awhile back that has lots of photos for reference - https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/86383-Whirlwind-Williams-1990-Repair-amp-Service-Log

 

One from the pop bumpers before I pulled them apart:

 

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/whirlwind/whirlwind_popbumpers_start_3.jpg

Thanks mate, i'll go dig around.

Williams were using self adhesive bumper mylars, not sure if it was still going on when Whirlwind come out, but these things probably caused more problems than not. Over time they can ripple up under the bumper shirt from the bumper light heat and literally hold the switch on. If someone does feel the need to use bumper mylars, I would recommend using the non adhesive versions but even these can cause issues if someone tries cleaning under them and gets a fold in the mylar. Personally, I think no bumper mylar and just clean regularly.

I find the loose ones tend to get grit between them and the playfield and then hold it in place, doing the exact opposite of what they are supposed to do.

 

There's a fair discussion of pop bumpers here, if you limit it to the @vid1900 posts the noise disappears: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers?tu=vid1900

A Williams TimeWarp showing exactly why I don't like the adhesive ones. I don't like bumper mylars at all...

 

That is the mylar bowing up under the shirt. The upper right bumper shows the shirt fully lifted. 3 bumper coils were cooked on this machine and there driver Tip 120 transistors.

 

Thanks guys, it was a switch adjustment on two of them. The one that was firing on the slap test was not the one i thought i saw firing yesterday, so great info.

 

Also got Tales mostly firing well, the crypt trap was taking 2 ball searches and ten goes to shoot the ball back, but levelling got it within a couple of fires most times. More to do on that one.

Tommy hasn't been looked at yet, but two repairs in a day will do me. On the piss now.:lol

Now the Tales From the Crypt has a bottom right flipper not working. Thought it may have been a spring fel off or something but the coil doesn't seem to move hardly at all when the button is pressed. The top one workks fine.

Put some pressure on the EOS switch on that flipper and try.

Yes i was having a good hard look at the switches earlier and it looks like that one is open when the left one looks closed. I'll have a further look tomoz, drinking now.

Might want to change them for late Williams WPC EOS switches. Best ever made and probably cheaper and easier to locate here in Ozz.

The punkin's in Trouble Again With Repairs Thread.

 

It’s a data East, EOS can be missing and not affect it.

 

Check the flipper board, bottom left of cab, blown fuse, broken wire or cracked pin. Fukd fuse clips.

1 set fuses for hold, 1 set for power.

 

The flipper switches the bottom flipper should operate first then top.

 

Most times it’s the pins cracked on flip board.

 

EOS should be normally open.

 

 

 

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