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Gday Pinheads


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Just a quick note to introduce myself. I’m new to this website but have owned lots of pins over the years. I have recently purchased a system 6 (Time Warp) which was rescued as a non working machine. I have been working hard in the background to get it booted up but have struck a wall. I hope there will be some knowledgeable people out there to lend a hand. Anyway enough from me and I look forward to chatting with you soon.

Pinball-Junkie

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I have been working through the online problem solving info on pinside and pin wiki.

The power supply has been confirmed as working correctly with all the voltages are good after rebuilding with new caps, resistors, headers etc. no problems there.

From here I tackled the CPU on the bench and was having on off on flashes from the LEDs. With the driver board connected the LEDs came on and that’s it. I managed to get my hands on a NOS Driver Board from an ex operator but I was still getting odd flashes.

I then purchased a logic probe and test rom. This told me a lot and everything seemed to be good until the last game rom went back in to replace the test rom. LEDs then went back to on off on again. Bought a new set of rims and now the LEDs flash on then off which I believe is correct?

Now the machine will go into attract mode with some of the displays now working. Player 1 off, player two partially working and master off. From what I am reading is that the player 1 display may come up with an error code at this point but it’s not working which is a problem. I should add that the game won’t start and I have changed all the headers and 40 pin interconnect.

I am at a bit of a loss without having access to another master display.

Any pointers you can offer would be appreciated

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you know you can swap them around? ( turn the game off and swap the working glass to player 1 etc) - move the display not the cables

 

I have tried swapping the slave displays and all work. As above player 1 off, player two 2 missing digits and master off. The only common thing that links the problem slave displays is at IC11 UDN6184, correct? As for the master I’m thinking IC9 7180.

Am I going down the right road here and if so does anyone know where I can get these locally?

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Have you worked through this link?

 

http://pinball.flippers.info/system6repairpart4.asp

 

I have worked through this guide as much as possible without going into the advanced section.

 

From step 1.1

 

If the LEDs flash once then go out, but nothing shows on the displays:

Answer - Display 1 not working due to suspect Master display so cannot tell if there is an error code.

 

Your CPU has started and the game program is running (somewhat!) but there is either a ROM problem or a problem with your displays.

Answer - Agreed, Well some displays

 

Turn your game off and on quickly, if the displays remain "dark", but the game goes into "attract" mode (feature lights flashing), then you have a problem with either your display driver board or the display circuitry on the MPU board.

 

Answer - Displays are dark on initial start u but switching on and off once most of the displays light up. I suspect the only common thing that links the problem slave displays is at IC11 UDN6184, correct? As for the master I’m thinking IC9 7180.

 

 

1.3 Step 3 - Perform the Self Test

If both LEDs flash twice and go off, Well, you've passed the self test. Your problem is most likely driver board or inter-board connector related.

Answer - I have checked the continuity from the pins on the CPU/MPU to the driver and all seems good.

 

 

This is as far as I can get. I have posted a Wanted add for a Master display however if it's an easy fix, Chip replacement and they are available within Oz then I would prefer to go down this route.

 

Any advice on how to proceed would be good.

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Bad rom sockets or the interconnector are usual problems with system 3-6 Williams. The factory sockets were crap the day they fitted them. If the 6821 PIAs are socket fitted suspect them as well. Just remember, one 6821 does the displays, one does the solenoids and one does the feature lights. If they are socketed, swap them around and see if you have any joy.

 

This should come in handy.....

 

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

 

I love Vids work. I wish we had his how to guides here because they are so correct what he writes. Fortunately I did get copies of most of his How Tos before they disappeared.

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Bad rom sockets or the interconnector are usual problems with system 3-6 Williams. The factory sockets were crap the day they fitted them. If the 6821 PIAs are socket fitted suspect them as well. Just remember, one 6821 does the displays, one does the solenoids and one does the feature lights. If they are socketed, swap them around and see if you have any joy.

 

This should come in handy.....

 

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

 

I love Vids work. I wish we had his how to guides here because they are so correct what he writes. Fortunately I did get copies of most of his How Tos before they disappeared.

 

PIA's are socketed so will swap them around tonight to see what happens.

Newbie me thought they were specific to the task they were used for.

I will let you know what I find out

Thanks

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

1.3 step3. Am I to assume that it passes self test.

 

I have had to replace those chips before but I think I got them from Marcos

 

Yes it passed self test, two flashes.

I will try and borrow a Master display to see if that changes things. If I by the chips it will cost 4 times the cost of the chips for freight. Probably cheaper to buy a second hand display.

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1.3 step3. Am I to assume that it passes self test.

 

I have had to replace those chips before but I think I got them from Marcos

 

Freight is 3 times the cost of the chips and about the same as a second hand Master display. Either way I would like to be sure that that's the problem first, so if anyone has a system 3-6 master display that they want to lend me for an hour or two in exchange for a beer or two, then let me know.

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