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Newbie from ACT


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Howdy all,

 

New user from the ACT, just picked up some kind of 2 player LAI early blue cab (like TMNT) running a pandoras box.

Joined for the info and to ask some questions about identifying what the machine may have been in a past life (no stickers etc)

If anyone can point me in the right direction in the forum (or on the machine) of where to start looking for the right info, that would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

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Screenshot_20190730-180352.thumb.jpg.c9edfcb33b74ce0fb0d829323725ec9d.jpg

After an hour browsing here I believe it is actually a TMNT blue cab. It was definitely 4 player once and the deal sealer was the service buttons inside the front door are labelled red blue yellow purple, which is the same colour as the TMNT players. Might have to restore it now I know this

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Don't be too sure. Whilst it could definitely be restored/converted to TMNT cabinet, LAI made lots of these cabinet's with various games in them...

Does it have an official LAI number plate on it? Usually on the rear top of the cabinet. Having this number may help.

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IMG_20190730_182047.thumb.jpg.918d724285e400b8ed73961ad20fde9b.jpg

Found some tin had been cut and put over the 4 player select buttons, so only player 1 and 4 buttons were used as a 2p. I removed the tin and it appears to have a black sticker over the whole panel, I noticed some colour and started scratching, I believe it's a wrestlefest decal that has been painted over in black but the players 2 and 3 haven't had the button holes cut out yet.

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Welcome to AA.

 

That style of LAI cab is the first cab I ever bought, I still have it as a 4-player MAME machine. They are solid cabs, weigh a bloody ton. They were used in a wide range of 2-player and 4-player games, Turtles, Street Fighter II, Vendetta, Sunset Riders and many more.

 

Does it have the original Kortek monitor?

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Zenith tube, Kortek chassis, together they make the monitor.

 

What's the picture like? Those old Korteks are best replaced with a nice Nanao if you can get your hands on one. Kortek/Zenith combos were in so many 26 inch Aussie arcade machines and they were of very B-grade quality compared to the awesome Nanao stuff.

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It's quite fuzzy/blurry and too much green tint, haven't touched the adjustments yet but hopefully I can clear it up abit. Otherwise il start the hunt for a new nanao monitor I think. Thank mate
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It's quite fuzzy/blurry and too much green tint, haven't touched the adjustments yet but hopefully I can clear it up abit. Otherwise il start the hunt for a new nanao monitor I think. Thank mate

 

Get the back off the cab and you can carefully start adjusting the pots. The focus pot can be found on the back of the EHT (also called flyback, the large black plastic thing at the back corner of the chassis). There will be two pots (potentiometers), one labelled screen and the other labelled focus. The screen will up the voltage, which will in turn change the brightness of the image. The focus is what you want to try to fix the blurriness. However, many of these monitors are just old and shit now and no amount of adjustment will help.

 

The colour adjustments are found in two places, one set on the chassis and one set on the neckboard. One is for gains and one is for cutoffs, can't remember which one is which. Green is often set high as it provides an artificial brightness boost for old monitors, but of course, it also makes the green too heavy in the process.

 

Read up on some adjustment guides and have a crack, it's surprising how often a good adjustment will fix a shitty monitor.

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Double post sorry. The machine used to have a degaussing coil installed, button etc inside, but the coil has been removed from the CRT. Do I bother buying one and refitting it or use a handheld one?

The focus knob etc on the chassis seems like it's on the wrong side when I remove the rear, I might have to 180 deg rotate the chassis I think.

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Ok, disclaimer time. Be careful when working on old CRTs. They store high voltage charges and you need to know how to be safe. Do not go near the anode cup on the back of the tube when the monitor is powered, it can quite literally kill you if you do something stupid like stick your hand under it.

 

I would recommend watching a few videos on discharging a CRT, it's not difficult and something that you may need to do if you remove the chassis.

 

I imagine if you want to rotate the chassis, you will need to unplug stuff, as the cables likely will not stretch far enough to rotate it. If you need to unplug stuff, you really should be discharging first.

 

No problems with the degauss coil missing, they are generally pretty useless anyway. A handheld degaussing wand is totally fine.

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