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Eddy Sensor Blues..


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Hi folks,

 

Sigh, I’m having more issues with an Eddy Sensor in a TOM and was hoping someone could help.

 

I fixed an ES PCB and had trouble free playing for months🤠 I noticed recently though that one particular board was getting steadily worse requiring calibration nearly every session. After hearing the outlane magnet engage at odd times I would lift up the playfield and the ES LED would be on.

 

It’s now blowing fuses (F104), a problem I had a while back.

 

I was wondering if it’s the nature of these boards to generally suck and fail or if there could be another underlying problem causing fatigue? I am keen to acquire some self calibrating boards from Tangles but concerned they will suffer a similar fate.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Cheers.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

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  • 2 months later...

There are a lot of different opinions regarding Eddy boards out there.... I'll share mine. Generally speaking, Eddy sensing is just not as reliable as a switch, but it serves a purpose that switches cannot fill. Eddy reliability is made worse over time as the boards (and connections) age. Temperature and humidity changes cause drift in the calibration as well.

 

Whilst old style eddy boards can be repaired and calibrated to work well, they are always going to need semi-regular servicing. This is where smart Eddy boards can help.

 

I know owners who are more than capable of adjusting eddy boards, but are just sick of the process. Others with limited space or art blades are keen to reduce the number of time the playfield needs to be lifted.

 

The inductors (sensors) generally do not wear out, but I have found the Molex to be pretty dodgy. Especially the 2-pin connector to the sensor. I recommend people change these with new plugs and crimp on pins if they have the skills to do this. I am now including these with my Smart Eddy in case the owner is up for the crimping challenge.

 

Tangles.

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Thanks everyone!

 

Tangles, your synopsis makes a lot of sense. I agree, there are too many factors that can influence the movement of the calibration pot.

 

Interesting what you said about the right and left side operating differently too Pinoffski. Enough to drive you nuts!🤯

 

I found troubleshooting this issue particularly difficult this time around. I’ve learned that Magnet coils don’t like being set off manually numerous times in row! That in itself is enough to blow fuses[emoji45]I also found that an older fuse with a thicker internal wire was more reliable than a brand new one on a magnet circuit for some reason. Not a super old one, just a different make of the same voltage.[emoji848]

 

Anyhoo, the end result of all this was that we purchased a couple of your sweet auto calibrating boards Tangles. So far so good, no more blown fuses.[emoji106]

 

It’s made such a difference eliminating the need to take off the glass regularly, especially as my mate doesn’t enjoy tinkering at the best of times.

 

Really appreciate having a local made solution at a very reasonable price that was delivered very promptly. Great work Tangles!

 

Even though I appreciate the craftsmanship of the original design and understand why they made them, I strongly advise anyone with a TOM or STTNG to buy these. I’ve since sent the mighty TOM back to it’s Papa who is very happy indeed.

 

Cheers again AA community, onto the next project! [emoji41][emoji481]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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I recently worked on a TOM where the RF Chokes were missing one for each drain magnet(things that look like resistors but are not).

The values on these are 100uH (Brown/Black/Brown/Silver) and the ones from Jaycar work just fine.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/100uh-rf-choke/p/LF1534

 

Soldering the two wires directly to the board is fine and makes it far more reliable.

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Thanks everyone!

 

Tangles, your synopsis makes a lot of sense. I agree, there are too many factors that can influence the movement of the calibration pot.

 

Interesting what you said about the right and left side operating differently too Pinoffski. Enough to drive you nuts!🤯

 

I found troubleshooting this issue particularly difficult this time around. I’ve learned that Magnet coils don’t like being set off manually numerous times in row! That in itself is enough to blow fuses[emoji45]I also found that an older fuse with a thicker internal wire was more reliable than a brand new one on a magnet circuit for some reason. Not a super old one, just a different make of the same voltage.[emoji848]

 

Anyhoo, the end result of all this was that we purchased a couple of your sweet auto calibrating boards Tangles. So far so good, no more blown fuses.[emoji106]

 

It’s made such a difference eliminating the need to take off the glass regularly, especially as my mate doesn’t enjoy tinkering at the best of times.

 

Really appreciate having a local made solution at a very reasonable price that was delivered very promptly. Great work Tangles!

 

Even though I appreciate the craftsmanship of the original design and understand why they made them, I strongly advise anyone with a TOM or STTNG to buy these. I’ve since sent the mighty TOM back to it’s Papa who is very happy indeed.

 

Cheers again AA community, onto the next project! [emoji41][emoji481]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Very happy indeed! .

The auto calibrating boards are working great

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