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EM wood ball guide re finishing


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As the title says I’m wondering if anyone else has had to refinish the clear wood pieces on their EM 60s, 70s pinball machines. I’ve sanded mine back and given them a few coats of polyurethane gloss ( brushed on ) and they look ok but when the light shines on them they look like shit.

What have others used eg: spray can clear? And how did they turn out

 

 

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i buy new timber from bunnings. they have *almost* the exact size, though it's about 2mm higher but you can't notice it once on the game (have some of the strips here with the bunnings barcode/fineline still on it).

 

then a mix of varnish and lacquer - i'll post pix of it later - and they look awesome!

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

20190125_180554.thumb.jpg.9dc33132f213a6c5113df4cb401bfae2.jpg

20190125_180456.thumb.jpg.8ffa7a0dfbecf05a55b265845ba75886.jpg

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Sand it back and spray it, painting gloss clears with a brush looks rubbish In most cases.

If you dont want to spray with a gun you can buy those spray can varnishes from bunnings, they work pretty good on jobs like that, would take about 4 coats though. one coat every 24 hours. about $15 a tin, one tin would do.

 

first coat usually looks like arse as its just sealing the timber, after the next few coats it will look amazing.

 

very similar to what Steelers posted above just in a spray can. Cabots has a spray varnish but I like the Bondell spray varnish slightly better.

But both will work fine.

Oh and do ever put varnishes in the sun to dry. allot of people make that mistake.

Edited by jason1
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i buy new timber from bunnings. they have *almost* the exact size, though it's about 2mm higher but you can't notice it once on the game (have some of the strips here with the bunnings barcode/fineline still on it).

 

then a mix of varnish and lacquer - i'll post pix of it later - and they look awesome!

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]142077[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]142078[/ATTACH]

 

I was contemplating making new ones but couldn’t fathom drilling all the holes to line everything up perfectly the smaller one is completely held there by pins/nails and I can just imagine if you don’t drill them right it would be all off, unless there’s some sort of secret method to it?

And do you brush or use a spray gun to apply your lacquer because when I brushed mine on I did about 3 coats and it looks ok until the bright lights overhead shows up all the imperfections.

 

 

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EM wood ball guide re finishing

 

Sand it back and spray it, painting gloss clears with a brush looks rubbish In most cases.

If you dont want to spray with a gun you can buy those spray can varnishes from bunnings, they work pretty good on jobs like that, would take about 4 coats though. one coat every 24 hours. about $15 a tin, one tin would do.

 

first coat usually looks like arse as its just sealing the timber, after the next few coats it will look amazing.

 

very similar to what Steelers posted above just in a spray can. Cabots has a spray varnish but I like the Bondell spray varnish slightly better.

But both will work fine.

Oh and do ever put varnishes in the sun to dry. allot of people make that mistake.

 

I was thinking of sanding them all back and trying again this time with clear lacquer spray cans but I remembered once before trying to get gloss in the tins from Bunnings and they didn’t sell it only matte or satin finish no gloss

 

Just looked up EBay and found this stuff that may do the job

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282930850267

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282468273987

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252593663325

 

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Edited by Rob1966
Found a product on eBay
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I was thinking of sanding them all back and trying again this time with clear lacquer spray cans but I remembered once before trying to get gloss in the tins from Bunnings and they didn’t sell it only matte or satin finish no gloss

 

Just looked up EBay and found this stuff that may do the job

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282930850267

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282468273987

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252593663325

 

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the last one in your links I would use,

You might have been unlucky with them not having the gloss when you went there, Bondall 300g Gloss Monocel Clear Timber Varnish Aerosol, is on bunnings website.

 

I use that stuff often in my restorations, for small fiddly timber bits I need clear on, things that dont warrant me cleaning out the spray gun for.

 

The Cabots Clear is not bad, I just find the thinners used in the Bondall Moncel cans a bit better. thats why I say the Bondall Monocel, be warned though keep the nosils cleaned after use. Varnish is pretty bad with clogging up on aerosols, also shake it allot and shake cans often.

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I got this stuff from Bunnings and was lucky enough to speak to the paint rep of the product. This is it but mine clearly says "ultra gloss" where this one says satin....

ctv.png

 

He said do not put it on with a brush, use a cloth, wait for it to dry and go over it with a wet scourer. Once done do another coat and it should look like glass. Turns out he knew his stuff. It takes time but I am slowly getting the interior wood trim done in our farmhouse.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I’ve decided to strip back all the polyurethane that I applied to the guides and re sand them and try again with a clear coat gloss spray can this time, I did think about buying some new wood and re making some new ones but I thought I would see how this turned out first, but that doesn’t mean that I have ruled out new ones yet I just really want this to work out ok as they are still in pretty good nick apart from there finish.

So I finally got down to Bunnings and found some products just wanting to know peoples thoughts? And has anyone used them

3f21596df5f5185c4720190eac411fbd.jpgef4da481e4d5fac83ea04c3389738184.jpg

I also need a good playfield wax so does anyone know anything about this wax that was also at Bunnings

0a5543455424715d532f1af963b19bd8.jpg

 

 

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I have been told for EMs only use 100% Carnauba wax. So as long as its 100% it should be good stuff.

 

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Wax for playfield use is something I know absolutely nothing about it says 100% Australian made but if it’s 100% carnaubra wax I’m unsure, I would love to know what others use?

 

 

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both those clears would work fine, But I personally prefer the Monocel slightly more.

 

Just a hint spray a coat then walk away for 24 hours, never put multiple layers on in a day with varnish as it will skin on top.

First layer or two will likely be absorbed by the timber But will seal it, So dont worry, after 3-4 coats it will look amazing.

Dont ever dry in the sun with varnish.

 

Also tip the spray can upside down and spray for a few seconds after use, those tips block up easy when the clear dries.

 

as for that furniture wax shown, I have used that stuff on a play-field, it will work ok as it is wax, I have some of that wax for polish in my hoard of wax products lol, I dont really rate it as that good of a timber polish let alone for a play-field. A good quality car wax is better IMO for a play-field or anything with a painted surface.

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both those clears would work fine, But I personally prefer the Monocel slightly more.

 

Just a hint spray a coat then walk away for 24 hours, never put multiple layers on in a day with varnish as it will skin on top.

First layer or two will likely be absorbed by the timber But will seal it, So dont worry, after 3-4 coats it will look amazing.

Dont ever dry in the sun with varnish.

 

Also tip the spray can upside down and spray for a few seconds after use, those tips block up easy when the clear dries.

 

as for that furniture wax shown, I have used that stuff on a play-field, it will work ok as it is wax, I have some of that wax for polish in my hoard of wax products lol, I dont really rate it as that good of a timber polish let alone for a play-field. A good quality car wax is better IMO for a play-field or anything with a painted surface.

 

Thanks Jason I wasn’t sure about the wax I think I might go the car wax route now it’s just a matter of which one.

God this shit is hard sometimes lol

 

 

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Thanks Jason I wasn’t sure about the wax I think I might go the car wax route now it’s just a matter of which one.

God this shit is hard sometimes lol

 

 

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That wax would do the job just like most waxes would, but there are plenty better.

Personally for almost all my resto's, Mothers paste wax is my go to in most occasions.

I have a huge collection of waxes, ive tried many.

I have a very extensive collection of waxes, from Mold release waxes, car waxes of so many types from car show days, Also furniture and leather waxes and other types of specialty products for old furniture. I have almost an obsession with waxes and buffing compounds, strangely so does my missus.

When doing the restorations full time I got to the point that mothers was used on pretty much all painted surfaces, from Acrylics, twopacks, and enamels.

It is quick, Its easy to use, has a good lasting finish and just good all round.

Some of those furniture waxes which are older style waxes, need tobe left to dry but once dried are a night mare to wipe off, and they require allot of hand buffing to get good even after the wax looks tobe removed.

they also dont have the heat resistant properties of Modern waxes so can get slightly tacky with heat.

 

 

Some people argue not to use Cleaner wax as it has an abrasive, Which actually I consider a Pro not a con, it is so fine you wont notice it when rubbing in as, your talking microscopic abrasives. So dont let that worry you with the cleaner wax, it really helps with the polishing removing very very very fine scratches in paint.

its so fine that if you rub the wax through your fingers you wont feel any sort of abrasive.

So the mothers cleaner paste wax I really like, But pretty much any mothers Paste waxes that dont have the abrasives, and they will do the job to a high level also.

If you are concerned about that

anyway thats my personal choice, from memory they are all about 50bucks a tin and will last you a long time.

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That wax would do the job just like most waxes would, but there are plenty better.

Personally for almost all my resto's, Mothers paste wax is my go to in most occasions.

I have a huge collection of waxes, ive tried many.

I have a very extensive collection of waxes, from Mold release waxes, car waxes of so many types from car show days, Also furniture and leather waxes and other types of specialty products for old furniture. I have almost an obsession with waxes and buffing compounds, strangely so does my missus.

When doing the restorations full time I got to the point that mothers was used on pretty much all painted surfaces, from Acrylics, twopacks, and enamels.

It is quick, Its easy to use, has a good lasting finish and just good all round.

Some of those furniture waxes which are older style waxes, need tobe left to dry but once dried are a night mare to wipe off, and they require allot of hand buffing to get good even after the wax looks tobe removed.

they also dont have the heat resistant properties of Modern waxes so can get slightly tacky with heat.

 

 

Some people argue not to use Cleaner wax as it has an abrasive, Which actually I consider a Pro not a con, it is so fine you wont notice it when rubbing in as, your talking microscopic abrasives. So dont let that worry you with the cleaner wax, it really helps with the polishing removing very very very fine scratches in paint.

its so fine that if you rub the wax through your fingers you wont feel any sort of abrasive.

So the mothers cleaner paste wax I really like, But pretty much any mothers Paste wax will do the job.

anyway thats my personal choice, from memory they are all about 50bucks a tin and will last you a long time.

 

Thanks mate I knew you’d be the one to get advice from[emoji106]

 

 

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I've done a couple of playfields in clear from a can on ems go semi gloss or satin. Then polish gloss looks ridiculous. Just my 2 bob.

 

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The clear spray cans are for the shooter lane wooden ball guides, I’m only going to clean and polish/ wax the playfield there’s no way I’d hit the playfield with a can of clear.

 

 

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EM wood ball guide re finishing

 

Got this on a pinball website or ebay i forget. Im pretty sure someone recommended this to me on AA.78526a684784258dfb6e32a27987ffd6.jpg

 

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Yeah saw that one I have it on my eBay watched list it’s quite dear

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113624799525

It sounds good in the ad but funny not one person on here has recommended it Or said that they use it.

 

 

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Edited by Rob1966
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  • 3 weeks later...
The clear spray cans are for the shooter lane wooden ball guides, I’m only going to clean and polish/ wax the playfield there’s no way I’d hit the playfield with a can of clear.

 

 

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how did these turn out Rob?

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