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Funhouse - out hole solenoid not working


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Question

I have briefly looked at this a while ago but haven't had time to get back to it.

From memory the solenoid didn't have enough grunt to push the ball into the shooter lane, now not working at all.

At this point I'm guessing I've blow a fuse.

Once I check this, I'm guessing Step 1, I can ground the switch wire on the solenoid and it should fire?

This will tell me if the problem is coil/mech issue or further up the line, ie plug, pins, or tranny switching it?

 

And yes i'll take the apron off and suss the mech out as well.

 

Interesting to read that pivot point needs oiling as regular maintenance, as do the sling shots.

 

How's my theory so far?

 

Wont get to look at the machine till the weekend.

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Don’t short the switch wire to the coil that will do more damage to the switch matrix.

 

Grab a multi meter on vdc with the black lead on the earth lead and Red on either side of the coil see if you have and voltage. You should see the voltage on both coil terminals

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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In terms of grounding things to fire coils, I think you're thinking of grounding the coil lug with the thinner wire. This is a quick and dirty way of testing when you don't have a meter and has a few issues, mainly that if you do the wrong lug you blow the fuse and you can easily burn a coil. Nothing to do with the switches at all, which as @ddstoys mentions will blow the switch matrix. Using a meter is a better option.
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Don’t short the switch wire to the coil that will do more damage to the switch matrix.

 

Grab a multi meter on vdc with the black lead on the earth lead and Red on either side of the coil see if you have and voltage. You should see the voltage on both coil terminals

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So your saying I should have voltage on both sides of the coil with respect to earth when the coil is not energized?

If your talking about being energized, its just a pulse and a meter wont pick that up?

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I've never considered the trough eject assembly to need oiling. Slingshots yes, hole ejects yes, but the trough assembly is a different style of pivot which I had considered did not need lube. Anyone else have any ideas on this?
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So your saying I should have voltage on both sides of the coil with respect to earth when the coil is not energized?

If your talking about being energized, its just a pulse and a meter wont pick that up?

 

Yes. There's always voltage at the coil, the transistor connects the coil to ground so you'll have voltage all the way to the collector of the transistor.

 

There's a bunch of stuff here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

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So your saying I should have voltage on both sides of the coil with respect to earth when the coil is not energized?

If your talking about being energized, its just a pulse and a meter wont pick that up?

 

Yes mate you should have positive voltage to both sides of the coil all the time when not activated

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes mate you should have positive voltage to both sides of the coil all the time when not activated

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edit: I was thinking system 11 below, I'm not 100% sure what the enable mechanism is on wpc Alpha.

 

One exception is the flippers which only have voltage when the flipper enable relay is on (during game or Diag mode), otherwise they'd flip when the cabinet buttons were pressed in attract mode.

 

I imagine later machines with the high voltage interlocks won't have voltage at the coils unless the interlock is held in or disabled too.

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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I'm not sure about this but does Funhouse have a coin door solenoid safety switch. I'm just suggesting that if like Williams WPC games the solenoids won't fire with the coin door open. :unsure

Coin door was closed.

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