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How to remove stubborn screws


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How to remove stubborn screws

 

Im confused. Do you hacksaw the whole shaft? After hacksawing the shaft how do you get the grub screw out?

 

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk

 

You don’t get the grub screw out.

Hacksaw the shaft.

You order or use a new flipper pawl, shaft/shoe to replace.

Have only ever had to do 1 or 2.

 

I only reuse grub screws if they have been damaged, can get them out and have spares.

 

 

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I got corrected on the terms when I first started buying them from the suppliers. I would walk in and ask for Hex headed bolt and they would say you mean a cap screw...WTF...A screw is a thread with a taper my thinking was but they call them cap screws so that is what I ask for and then specify, countersunk, button, pan or barrel head.

 

And if that isn't crazy enough, "cap screws" come in several designations of their own. There are "set screws" as well (having thread all the way to the head).

 

If you want one of these:

 

SHUBP.jpg.pagespeed_ce.noqEXY-pkS.jpg.2ed18231567f0d0808cfc8b99008591e.jpg

 

Your B.O.M. or box of bolts would read SHCS - Socket Head Cap Screw (cap screw having paralel shank section)

 

 

 

index.png.07717abdca12e03c87ea3d57ea11f3ea.png

 

SHSS - Socket Head Set Screw (set screw has thread full length)

 

 

 

e8eb483c.jpg.989b190b721e42f2d9c0905704a2055f.jpg

 

HHSS - Hex Head Set Screw (hexagonal head, full thread)

 

 

 

 

Seems like the system is set up to avoid double ups in abbreviation, to help prevent confusion. A bit like how it happens with pinball titles ... some descriptions can take a paragraph without using a code system :lol

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Where can i get a replacement pawl from? Havent seen them for sale

 

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https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/bally-flipper-rebuild-kit-05-1975-04-1980/

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And if that isn't crazy enough, "cap screws" come in several designations of their own. There are "set screws" as well (having thread all the way to the head).

 

If you want one of these:

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149276

 

Your B.O.M. or box of bolts would read SHCS - Socket Head Cap Screw (cap screw having paralel shank section)

 

 

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149274

 

SHSS - Socket Head Set Screw (set screw has thread full length)

 

 

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149277

 

HHSS - Hex Head Set Screw (hexagonal head, full thread)

 

 

 

 

Seems like the system is set up to avoid double ups in abbreviation, to help prevent confusion. A bit like how it happens with pinball titles ... some descriptions can take a paragraph without using a code system :lol

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/bally-flipper-rebuild-kit-05-1975-04-1980/

 

It’s the SHCS that we want. That’s what I used in the headers of the tonna

 

 

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Pinball Resource has them , but currently out of stock

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190612/f67eb487913fd4d186356df530699ea2.jpg

 

Never seen them anywhere else.

@wiredoug May have spares

 

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Oh THOSE flipper pawls... hmmm

 

If none can be found anywhere, and people need a replacment.... been made once, can be made again!

 

Myself or any machinist could do a refurb of existing cranks, or remakes as one offs, as a last (more expensive) resort....

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I was kinda picturing bigger issues like:

 

worn bore (from working loose)

cracked plate

severely rusted

We were also talking about Hacksaws!? :lol

 

*hacksaw fair enough, except maybe if cranks arent available*?

 

 

also swap sides and have new grub screw hole?

 

 

 

 

If biting the bullet and getting the drill, go Straight for the tapping size for the thread, drill it square and the grub screw should keep it in line for you. Going far enough would violate the flipper shaft a little.

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How to remove stubborn screws

 

Unfortunately with the system 1 type it’s nigh (yes nigh) impossible to get a drill into drill out. Hence (yes hence) the hacksaw blade (1 ended handle grip type) is needed to remove the shaft from the game.

 

Not always but sometimes necessary.

 

Possibly a suicide disc on a dremel.

 

Sometimes even getting an Allen key in is a challenge.

 

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I think I have about 6 Gottlieb pawls here plus other Gottlieb system 1 flipper parts. Anyone after them I will straight swap them for the equivalent Bally SS or Williams WPC part. I figure if I ever get a Gottlieb machine here that is mine I would most definitely change the flipper assemblies on it for either Bally SS or WPC style flipper assemblies anyway so they are parts I have no use for but not interested in selling them, just swapping like for like.
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How to remove stubborn screws

 

I think I have about 6 Gottlieb pawls here plus other Gottlieb system 1 flipper parts. Anyone after them I will straight swap them for the equivalent Bally SS or Williams WPC part. I figure if I ever get a Gottlieb machine here that is mine I would most definitely change the flipper assemblies on it for either Bally SS or WPC style flipper assemblies anyway so they are parts I have no use for but not interested in selling them, just swapping like for like.

 

I’ll see what I can dig up but don’t want to take them all in case someone else needs some.

 

Also a few later EMs use the system 1 flippers.

Jacks open, Hit the Deck, Etc.

The large door wedge heads from “77

 

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Those look alot like paralel shaft bats with dimples in the shafts?

 

Any crank system that uses a set screw (rather than the clamping effect ie. DE, WPC etc.) needs a grooved shaft. If you ever wondered why the groove, it is to prevent the natural and excessive burs/swelling, that the system creates, from locking the cranks onto the shafts and making them very painful to remove. Paralel shafts should only be for clamping type pawls, or else have fun trying to get things apart! :D

 

If you're stuck, add a crude recessed section with a bench grinder or something, to provide the relief gap.

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I think I have about 6 Gottlieb pawls here plus other Gottlieb system 1 flipper parts. Anyone after them I will straight swap them for the equivalent Bally SS or Williams WPC part. I figure if I ever get a Gottlieb machine here that is mine I would most definitely change the flipper assemblies on it for either Bally SS or WPC style flipper assemblies anyway so they are parts I have no use for but not interested in selling them, just swapping like for like.

 

Is it possible to do a straight swap or do also need to swap coils and more?

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Is it possible to do a straight swap or do also need to swap coils and more?

 

Gottlieb flipper coils fit straight in Bally SS flipper mechs. If you want to retain the Gottlieb flipper bats so the machine looks stock, you'll need these parts to mount the Gottlieb bats on the thinner shafts....

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-2747-11

There are a Bally SS part before the bat become part of the shaft.

 

As for Williams WPC large coil mechs, you need to relocate the coil retainer bracket to allow for the shorter coil. Position it, mark, drill and tap the two new mounting holes. Again, if you want to retain the original Gottlieb bats, you also need the Bally SS flipper bat mount as above.

 

 

The flipper coils Gottlieb used were not weak, it has to do with the energy required from the coil to move all the metal mass. If you look at the original Gottlieb mech, note all the metal that is required to move when the flipper is worked. This metal mass all requires magnetic energy to move it.

This metal mass was seen as a problem to the point of modern pinballs first having holes drilled in the flipper bat mounting plates to reduce the weight and finally molding the bat directly to the shaft so no metal other than the shaft.

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