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Thread: How to remove stubborn screws

  1. #21
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    How to remove stubborn screws

    Quote Originally Posted by Autosteve View Post
    I get replacement "cap screws" that are #8-32 and #10-32 from this place.....
    http://www.southernfasteners.com.au/...ckets-supplier

    Pretty local to you mate and they always seem to have the right length I'm after.

    The internal grub screws are a great idea because it is less weight for the flipper coil to have to move but being blind holes, once the Allen key goes in, you have no idea if the Allen key tip has actually gone fully in the hole. Someone trys using an Allen key not fully in the hole and the problem starts rounding out the end of the Allen key hole and usually the tool itself. Now you can never get an Allen key fully in that hole again. That is the downfall of all Allen key design unless you can see the hole and take the time to check the tool is fully inserted which sometimes means cleaning crap out of the hole.

    Grub screws are when the head is the same size as the threaded section of the bolt.
    Cap screws are when the head is larger the thread.
    You can buy the replacement pawl if needed but they don’t come in the kits.
    WPC or Williams kits have the hex head coil stop bolt.

    The grub screws are a tiny Allen key size so applying pressure can snap the key.
    Bolts with the Allen Key hex head are larger sized Allen Key size.

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    The Artist Formally Known As #1

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dedrok View Post
    You can buy the replacement pawl if needed but they don&#8 217;t come in the kits.
    WPC or Williams kits have the hex head coil stop bolt.

    The grub screws are a tiny Allen key size so applying pressure can snap the key.
    Bolts with the Allen Key hex head are larger sized Allen Key size.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yer I nearly suggested using WPC bolts. I also have #8 and #10 taps for retapping the threads. Funny, I bought them for making my own flipper base plates both Bally SS and Williams but now that I have made all I'm planning on needing, they are getting used for everything with these threads and it is amazing how much some threads are gummed up. Something I guess you don't have an issue with when you buy brand new parts but I see no reason to change parts that are not damaged or worn out plus I don't believe all the new parts are always as good as the originals quality wise.

  3. #23
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    Yeah I clean, keep or use old parts that are still good.
    Make up bags of spares for all different makes.
    It got me through the last week.

    If the Grub Screws are OK then I re use them. If one is ruined by non fitting key attempts then I grab a spare to replace it.

    If they are ruined beyond reuse then swap out to hex head.

    If they are in doable, out with the hacksaw.

    Thought I’d clarify that “hex head” means Allen Key Bolts and that a “Hexagon Headed Flat Bolt” is a “Bolt”


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  4. #24
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    Im confused. Do you hacksaw the whole shaft? After hacksawing the shaft how do you get the grub screw out?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dedrok View Post

    Thought I’d clarify that “hex head” means Allen Key Bolts and that a “Hexagon Headed Flat Bolt” is a “Bolt”


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    I got corrected on the terms when I first started buying them from the suppliers. I would walk in and ask for Hex headed bolt and they would say you mean a cap screw...WTF...A screw is a thread with a taper my thinking was but they call them cap screws so that is what I ask for and then specify, countersunk, button, pan or barrel head.

  6. #26
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    How to remove stubborn screws

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbleseven View Post
    Im confused. Do you hacksaw the whole shaft? After hacksawing the shaft how do you get the grub screw out?

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk
    You don’t get the grub screw out.
    Hacksaw the shaft.
    You order or use a new flipper pawl, shaft/shoe to replace.
    Have only ever had to do 1 or 2.

    I only reuse grub screws if they have been damaged, can get them out and have spares.


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  7. #27
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    Where can i get a replacement pawl from? Havent seen them for sale

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autosteve View Post
    I got corrected on the terms when I first started buying them from the suppliers. I would walk in and ask for Hex headed bolt and they would say you mean a cap screw...WTF...A screw is a thread with a taper my thinking was but they call them cap screws so that is what I ask for and then specify, countersunk, button, pan or barrel head.
    And if that isn't crazy enough, "cap screws" come in several designations of their own. There are "set screws" as well (having thread all the way to the head).

    If you want one of these:

    SHUBP.jpg.pagespeed.ce.noqEXY-pkS.jpg

    Your B.O.M. or box of bolts would read SHCS - Socket Head Cap Screw (cap screw having paralel shank section)



    index.png

    SHSS - Socket Head Set Screw (set screw has thread full length)



    e8eb483c.jpg

    HHSS - Hex Head Set Screw (hexagonal head, full thread)




    Seems like the system is set up to avoid double ups in abbreviation, to help prevent confusion. A bit like how it happens with pinball titles ... some descriptions can take a paragraph without using a code system

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by kimbleseven View Post
    Where can i get a replacement pawl from? Havent seen them for sale

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    https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/ball...-1975-04-1980/

  9. #29
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    How to remove stubborn screws

    Pinball Resource has them , but currently out of stock



    Never seen them anywhere else.
    @wiredoug May have spares

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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorsedge View Post
    And if that isn't crazy enough, "cap screws" come in several designations of their own. There are "set screws" as well (having thread all the way to the head).

    If you want one of these:

    https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachm...hmentid=149276

    Your B.O.M. or box of bolts would read SHCS - Socket Head Cap Screw (cap screw having paralel shank section)



    https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachm...hmentid=149274

    SHSS - Socket Head Set Screw (set screw has thread full length)



    https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachm...hmentid=149277

    HHSS - Hex Head Set Screw (hexagonal head, full thread)




    Seems like the system is set up to avoid double ups in abbreviation, to help prevent confusion. A bit like how it happens with pinball titles ... some descriptions can take a paragraph without using a code system

    - - - Updated - - -



    https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/ball...-1975-04-1980/
    It’s the SHCS that we want. That’s what I used in the headers of the tonna


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