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Thread: Stern Meteor driver board firing 2 solenoids at once

  1. #11

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    Put in switch test and see if two switches activate. If not put in solenoid test and see if two coils fire at once. Do each test more than once. If it's coil related, change the diodes on each coil.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryza View Post
    Actually there are no burnt tracks around the yellow and orange wires. Had he just joined them for no reason and that's why maybe 2 signals are going through?
    This is exactly what the problem is ^^^

    The orange wire is connecting the drive circuit to transistors Q4 and Q5 together which:
    Q4 activates the left lower "111" drop target bank reset
    Q5 activates the left upper "222" drop target bank reset

    The yellow wire is connecting the drive circuit to transistors Q12 and Q13 together which:
    Q12 activates the "METEOR" drop target bank reset
    Q13 activates the right "333" drop target bank reset

    Must have been someones idea of a "rule feature enhancement".
    Remove both those jumper wires.

  3. #13

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    Sweet, a rule enhancement...

    These are "enhancements" I would strongly recommend on all Bally and Stern SS machines especially the C26 tied to ground and the test point 1 tied to test point 3...

    Read though this Vid guide...

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec0fk9vgy...epair-v1.1.pdf

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quench View Post
    This is exactly what the problem is ^^^

    The orange wire is connecting the drive circuit to transistors Q4 and Q5 together which:
    Q4 activates the left lower "111" drop target bank reset
    Q5 activates the left upper "222" drop target bank reset

    The yellow wire is connecting the drive circuit to transistors Q12 and Q13 together which:
    Q12 activates the "METEOR" drop target bank reset
    Q13 activates the right "333" drop target bank reset

    Must have been someones idea of a "rule feature enhancement".
    Remove both those jumper wires.
    Fixed.
    Crazy. Why would someone do this!

    Cool to play the game "properly" now
    Still got some random switchs firing on their own. Which would be unrelated.

    And something I have done in the last 24 gours has made all of the displays go pretty funky. They are kind of flashing.... You can still see the score but very faintly. I've reset all the cables but that doesn't seem to do anything.

    Will tackle that tomorrow

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryza View Post
    And something I have done in the last 24 gours has made all of the displays go pretty funky. They are kind of flashing.... You can still see the score but very faintly. I've reset all the cables but that doesn't seem to do anything.

    Will tackle that tomorrow
    Measure the DC voltage at TP4 on the solenoid driver board. If you get around 170VDC (should be around 230VDC), suspect a bad connection at the high voltage capacitor C26 on the solenoid driver board (SDB). Then measure the voltage across that capacitor. If you get near zero volts that will confirm a bad connection. Check the solder joints on that cap and make sure you have good connectivity at connector J3 pin 3 (white wire) on the SDB which is the ground return for that capacitor. While you're there do the ground redundancy mod for C26 as mentioned in Vid1900's repair guide linked by @Autosteve above.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quench View Post
    Measure the DC voltage at TP4 on the solenoid driver board. If you get around 170VDC (should be around 230VDC), suspect a bad connection at the high voltage capacitor C26 on the solenoid driver board (SDB). Then measure the voltage across that capacitor. If you get near zero volts that will confirm a bad connection. Check the solder joints on that cap and make sure you have good connectivity at connector J3 pin 3 (white wire) on the SDB which is the ground return for that capacitor. While you're there do the ground redundancy mod for C26 as mentioned in Vid1900's repair guide linked by @Autosteve above.
    Thanks
    It measured 235v
    and across c26 is was the same voltage.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryza View Post
    And something I have done in the last 24 gours has made all of the displays go pretty funky. They are kind of flashing.... You can still see the score but very faintly. I've reset all the cables but that doesn't seem to do anything.
    What exactly were you toying with before it happened?

    Are the correct numbers/scores being displayed or is it random junk?

    Have you got a picture or better yet, a video showing the issue?

    If you have a logic probe, check that the blanking signal on one of the displays (pin 10) has activity.

  8. #18

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    I was just swapping boards around
    Hard to get on video exactly but here is it


  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryza View Post
    I was just swapping boards around
    Did you swap a board in that's causing this? If yes, which one has changed?

    You're getting incorrect numbers flickering on player 4 and sometimes player 3. Have you disconnected all displays bar one to determine if a particular display is shorting the data/control signals to the other displays?

    Another thing I would try is disconnect J4 from the lamp driver board and both J2 and J3 from the MPU board which are playfield and cabinet switch harnesses respectively.
    The display/number select signals are shared with the lamp select and switch strobes so isolate the lamp board and switches off those signal buses.

    By the way some of the displays especially the Ballys you've got will have a glow beneath each digit. Are the glows flickering or are they steady?

  10. #20

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    I would repin the connector and header pins of j1 on mpu if yiu haven't yet. Also inspect wires going to displays for signs or verdigris. It's a green liquidy looking gunge that oozes out of the wires. I had one wire (brown) on quicksilver that had it and ended up rewiring that part of the loom as it was tight the way through.

    It's prob also worth checking the top right connector on the power driver board from memory.

    Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk

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