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Sega Universal Upright conversion


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New update with the last or so week.

 

Cleaned out the pcbs and let them out in the sun to dry for a number of days

 

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Tried to see the state of the konami python...

 

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It was absolutely disgusting! I've never seen so much cockroach poo in my life!

 

I've started wheel wiring more panels to bare metal

 

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I'm going to try and repair the start holes from the control panel it was expanded to 30mm :( (key word here being "try" - I'm absolutely shocking with any form of metal work and I don't have a welder or the necessary tools)

 

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Since we're talking about me being crap with metal work, I did not have the balls nor did I believe I was able to chop the legs, so I drove to a local metal workshop and asked if they could do 4 straight cuts and 338mm needed to be taken off the bottom..

 

Few minutes later... We have a sit down!

 

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I need to get a metal bit for my jigsaw so I only have the holes to test the fit..

 

 

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After screwing the legs on, I couldn't really be any happier! The CP lines up "about" the same height as my astro (I imagine, once I put the feet on with the risers, it'll line up perfectly).

 

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She lines up pretty well to the feet cover.. I've purchased a set of feet from yanton so they'll be much better than this pair.. At least the screws aren't rusted!

 

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Sit down conversion complete!

 

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Now to start filling and then painting process...

 

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I just had a base for a jap driving cab done 8 pieces was $170 , as for colour Iam sure that won't be problem , I think powder coat is a lot more durable than paint ,
Yeah a few places quoted me over 550 to do....i would imagine its because they just don't want to do it.

 

Wheel wire, sand, clean, fill, sand, clean, prime, sand, paint, wet sand, paint, wet sand, paint, wet sand, paint, cut polish it is then :)

 

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Sorry to hear that , think they were taking you for a ride , or like you said not interested in the job , I was looking at the metal parts on my universal cab not as much square metres as the jap driving cab , anyway Iam sure you will get it looking mint , like the way you have got the plastic looking with the retrobrite we're to you get that stuff , or did you end up painting the plastic
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Sorry to hear that , think they were taking you for a ride , or like you said not interested in the job , I was looking at the metal parts on my universal cab not as much square metres as the jap driving cab , anyway Iam sure you will get it looking mint , like the way you have got the plastic looking with the retrobrite we're to you get that stuff , or did you end up painting the plastic
I will be painting the plastic too... Just so everything is the same colour.

 

That said, it's just peroxide 40 vol from any hairdresser. The one I got was from hair house warehouse

 

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Thanks for the info, now I've had a closer look at the plastic there is some variation in the colour might go with the paint idea too , look forward to reading how you do it , also +1 for the effort you put into your threads always a good read
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This is looking great. Fantastic work on it so far. Are you going horizontal or vertical?

 

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Thanks!

 

I'm most likely going to have this as a hori cab... I'm bummed that it's not 31khz. But it is what it is..

 

I'll muck around with it once it's all setup but it'll most likely be a jamma cab with a 360/DC and the UVC to downscale 480p to 240p

 

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Just go to super cheap and buy a small tin of body filler, then prime with the SCA branded primer filler in a can, its way better than the septone crap they sell.

 

Have had some really good results with the dulux epoxy paint from bunnings

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-300g-high-gloss-white-epoxy-enamel-spray-paint_p1400820

Hey @prktkljokr, over the weekend I started filling a few sections.

 

I'm hoping by this weekend, I'll be in a position to put the primer on.

 

I'm wondering if you would recommend different primers for the plastic and the metal bits or would the SCA prime filler from supercheap be sufficient?

 

Also plan to use the British Paints "appliance white" paint from bunnings.

 

The stuff that needed to be filled on the top bezel were a couple of spots..

 

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Filler applied and letting it dry...

 

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Sanded down one section to get it all nice and flat..

 

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Once all the plastic parts are done, I'll make my way through to the metal bits..

 

The base has definitely seen better days.

 

Don't think I can do much with one of the wheels, it's completely rusted and I can't even get the bolts out to clean/replace :(

 

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Hopefully I prime this week, but I don't want to rush the prep work..

 

Until next update.. :)

 

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Hey @prktkljokr, over the weekend I started filling a few sections.

 

I'm hoping by this weekend, I'll be in a position to put the primer on.

 

I'm wondering if you would recommend different primers for the plastic and the metal bits or would the SCA prime filler from supercheap be sufficient?

 

Also plan to use the British Paints "appliance white" paint from bunnings.

 

The stuff that needed to be filled on the top bezel were a couple of spots..

 

 

Should be fine as its a hard plastic, if it were flexible, I would recommend a plastic primer.

 

Preparation is the key, seeing you are going to paint the whole unit, I would sand the whole thing before applying the primer, 600 would do the job, I have found in the past if the area is not prepared when you come to wet sand, it can peel the primer off the un-prepared area.

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Should be fine as its a hard plastic, if it were flexible, I would recommend a plastic primer.

 

Preparation is the key, seeing you are going to paint the whole unit, I would sand the whole thing before applying the primer, 600 would do the job, I have found in the past if the area is not prepared when you come to wet sand, it can peel the primer off the un-prepared area.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm definitely going to sand before priming - I've been using 80 grit to roughen it up and get the bog off. I thought roughing it up would be good for priming and then went sand after that..

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Well this is going to be a boring update...

 

I filled, wheel wired and sanded!!

 

During the week, I received a package from yanton.

 

A "New Net City" 2 player cp with sticks and buttons... Unfortunately the buttons aren't sanwa and the jlf is unusable, that's all good, I got it specifically for the cp.

 

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Next up, we got a set of shoes as the right shoe bolt did not budge from the rust. Unfortunately, like most of my previous orders from yanton, there's always something wrong - in this case, they gave me two left feet!

 

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This was a very painful thing to do, but it had to be done due to the rust on the edges - predominantly the first player..

 

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After some TLC, the cp is ready for some priming!

 

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The plan is to prime and a white base to put some noodleshirt.com Sega naomi overlays

 

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Next up, the base! I managed to get that rusted wheel off after some wire brushing, a good hammering, wd40 and a socket wrench. I was very very happy I didn't rip the head of the bolt.

 

The base needs the most work on rust removal!

 

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I found an area next to the coin section that had A LOT of rust..

 

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Since this part is welded on the cab, it was either leave it on and hope for rust coverter to fix, or just angle grind the welded points to allow me to try and fix the rusted area..

 

The decision was pretty simple, out came the grinder and I'll just tek screw (or pop rivet) it in

 

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And here's the rust culprit!

 

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After a 5 minute session with the wheel wire.. Rust be gone!!

 

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I can't get to some other parts with the wheel wire, Im hoping I can find a Dremel bit to try and access those areas.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I can attack the underside of the base as that's the worst part.

 

Don't think priming will happen this weekend as the weather hasn't really permitted it.

 

Until the next update...

 

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Hey mate,

 

What is “yanton”?

 

Cheers,

Matthew

 

Yanton is an eBay seller that sells a number of arcade parts.

 

https://ebay.com.au/usr/yaton6262

 

Problem with them is they usually can never get it right the first time around.

 

Bought an astro city cp housing - they sent a blast city

 

Bought a daytona 2 shifter that "works" - the shifter had no way of working as the microswitches were there and there was stuff missing, so they sent another one which was im a condition so bad you wouldn't bother using. It would've been ok if they were the same model shifters to switch parts around but they were totally different

 

So yeah, they're good in that they carry a lot of spare parts for stuff you don't normally see, but they've only gotten one order right for me so far

 

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The priming has begun!

 

Some rust convert (even though I removed most of the rust with a wheel wire..)

 

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First coat..as light as they come..

 

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Third coat.. Nice and grey!

 

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Panels out to dry..

 

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It's amazing how far this panel has come, this one was the most affected with rust and she's looking pretty good now (even if I do say so myself) :)

 

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It's far from pro work, but at least I can sit back and say I did that! :)

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well it's been a while since my last post!

 

The weather on weekends has been terrible and as always life gets in the way :). I've managed to get a few hours worth today.

 

First up, the CP.

 

A fresh coat of paint is now on!

 

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Brand spanking new sanwa parts have arrived (I've gone vermillion and dark blue as that's what I heard was the stock colours of the naomi)

 

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And we wouldn't have fresh arcade vinyls if it wasn't for our man Carson from Noodleshirt (image taken from his IG, mine is in transit)

 

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Once all those arrive it's time to install and wire up.

 

Next up is the sides! I've delayed this quite a bit, but it was time to cut the holes for the cables on each leg..

 

With a fresh set of blades from bunnings, it was relatively a breeze.

 

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The feet holes were lined up, drilled, and countersunk

 

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Screw fits like a glove and is pretty flush!

 

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Next up was a test install... She's a beauty!

 

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Finally, it was time to finally tackle the base!

 

After a fair bit of time patching, sanding, rust converterting, wheel wiring, I can say she's officially ready to be primed!

 

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With any luck, this weekend should have the base primed!

 

Until the next update!

 

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Made use of the public holiday and supercheap sale on aerosols

 

Got a few cans in prep of the priming..

 

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First coat...

 

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And the finished coat (I think ended up with 3 coats)

 

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Wasn't expecting to have this sorted before the weekend, but hopefully I can wet sand it all this weekend..

 

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Another day, another thing to prime :)

 

Quick small job tofay..

 

Managed to prime the feet and top bits for the sides..

 

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Also got the repro art from noodleshirt and it's mint! Die cut using FrancoB's CAD files..

 

Vinyl applied to the rust free painted cp :)

 

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I had to do the hole cut outs, I'm hoping next time Noodleshirt can just die cut the holes for that too.

 

I also had to trim off about 1-2 mms on the top and on the left side since I slightly nudged the vinyl when I applied and I didn't realise until it was too late.. No major biggie.

 

After some initial drama with my buttons (seller sent me red instead of vermillion and was adamant they were correct, they eventually sent me the correct colours), once installed, I must say, I'm VERY happy with how it's turned out!

 

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I went for the "stock" colour scheme that I was told were on the Naomi universal and I've become quite a fan of the colours.

 

So this is officially the first "completed" part of this long restore!

 

Actually... It's technically not completed yet, I still have to make a harness. I'll do that right at the end.

 

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A little more progress on the cab has been made!

 

The base now has its first coat on!

 

I managed to whack on some paint last weekend and I completed a 2000 grit wet sand, so the finish is super smooth for the second coat of paint.

 

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She's definitely come a looooong way from what she looked like in the beginning :)

 

Next up i got the top part of the CP painted and wet sanded too.

 

The cp looks pretty good and I'm very happy with the result.

 

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With the panel sitting on the freshly painted cp holder

 

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And a comparison of what it would've looked like without the fresh coat of paint!

 

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It's night and day!

 

There's still so many things to do as I want to do two coats of paint and two coats of clear. Each coat has a wet sand.

 

The overall process for each part I'm painting is (and it's probably a waste and over the top, but oh well):

 

- sand back

- wax and grease clean

- prime

- wet sand with 800 grit

- paint

- wet sand with 2000 grit

- paint

- wet sand with 2000 grit

- clear coat

- wet sand with 2000 grit

- clear coat

- cut and polish

 

Then once everything is painted, re assemble then start on the electronics!

 

Hoping for a June/July completion (but I'm not in a rush)

 

 

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