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TAF from scratch


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Awesome dedrock, thankyou, I will check it out! I found 3 of the 4 wires needed last night hidden inside the loom.. Just have to track down that blue/gray cable.

Silly thing is it lists the part in the manual (as you have shown), but there is no suggestion of were it is located or that there is actually two of them needed for the game. Of course it would make sense that two motor's = 2 EMI PCB's, but yeah...

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@Dedrok does the blue/brown cable that you have disconnected from the Thing EMI pcb come directly from the headbox loom? Just wondering as the whole lot was cut off near there maybe it has fallen off the rest of the loom. :unsure
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@Dedrok does the blue/brown cable that you have disconnected from the Thing EMI pcb come directly from the headbox loom? Just wondering as the whole lot was cut off near there maybe it has fallen off the rest of the loom. :unsure

 

I’ll have to trace it.

Wether it goes direct to the motor or to the headbox, I couldn’t find where it went just by tracing.

 

Will have to have a better look later when I get back.

 

Worst case I’ll look at the harness sitting on the floor at home. May be easier to trace.

 

 

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There was a grey yellow and blue brown going directly to the thing magnet from memory that double up in the 4 pin connector, but looks like a different wire trace.

 

 

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TAF from scratch

 

So the top emi connector blue and grey go to the 4 pin plug.

 

In that same plug then is the colour change to blue/brown and grey/yellow that then go to the motor.

 

The other colours coming into the 4 plug from harness purple/yellow (power) and purple/blue (thin) then go to the 2 pin plug changing to black and white presumably going up to the magnet.

 

You are missing the add in harness piece by looks of it

 

 

Top emi connector

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The bottom connector is the loop through grey/yellow and blue/brown wires.

 

 

Bottom emi connector

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You may have them in the harness or they are bypassing and going directly to motor?

 

 

This should be in the motor

 

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Thankyou @Dedrok and @Turbo27 ! I have a theory based on your help and info.

As the harness was cut off I believe these wires, as well as the connector, have dropped off the loom and been lost which is why I cant find them. I still have the grey and yellow wire, but the theory is that this was cut as well (which is why the connector is missing) which has left me without both the Blue/brown going to the headbox, as well as the grey/yellow (which should loop through the connector and continue to the headbox, but doesn't). I have ordered the TAF wiring schematics book so will be able to confirm this soon, or change things were needed.

I also had the column wire missing for a microswitch circuit too the headbox, which kind of falls into the same idea as above.

 

PCB now in place, with added blue/brown wire to be fitted

 

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Onto making the mansion light board the best way I know how, with a piece of acrylic and some light sockets :) .

Thanks heaps to @Turbo27 and @pocketmoney for sending through all the drawings and pic's to go off !! :041::041:

 

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Drilling this stuff can be a pita, so did some test runs first to see how best to go about it. Normally you will get to the last hole and crack it for some reason or another...

 

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Success!!

 

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Add the sockets and led's. Decided on nuts and bolts rather than self tapping screws, mainly due to acrylic having a tendency to crack over time if pressure is applied the wrong way to it..

 

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Pretty basic circuit setup, hopefully got it right.

 

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Will do the job!!

 

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No onto the connection of a headbox wiring loom. I had two other's to join it up to, just perseverance and patience (and some sore hands after stripping a couple of hundred cables)

Alot of the cable colours did line up, but I had to add around 20 or so knew ones to the loom due to TAF being such a beast when it comes to mech's..

 

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Wiring underside and loom connection finished, thank f()*&!!

 

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Time to flip her over and start the top side!!

 

First thing to tackle was the wire lane guides. I had the one for the right but not the two for the left. Ordered the piano wire set from Marco's and made my own

 

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way to go with the lamp board, did mine a little differently but somehow the clear acrylic looks super clean.

 

looks like you have cornered the market with spare wiring looms. :)

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]146828[/ATTACH]

 

Keep up the awesome work.

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Personally I would have just used new bayonet sockets screwed directly to the pf next to inserts.

 

Great work [emoji108]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Gotta say it did cross my mind, but I thought if anyone ever made them available I would like to swap it out for the right board, without any signs of anything ever being any different, so went the long road.

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So had to make/mod some ball guides to fit due to not being available. I do cringe every time I have to visit the Popeye wreck and steel some parts, but oh well, thats what it was there for and its come to the rescue a few times now.

First I had to mod a Popeye ball guide for the second largest TAF guide. I purchased the larger one off Humpalot as he had a few made a while back, but I completely forgot about needing the next largest one. Anyway, this will do the job just fine.

 

Starting to bend to shape

 

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Of course it was the wrong way around, so had to pick a good area of the Popeye one and reverse the bend to suit

 

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Installed;

 

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For some reason you can buy the left steel flipper guide, but not the right, so I had a heap of these guides to pick from, found the closest match, and modified it to suit.

 

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Took the long road and used a hacksaw. I was worried if I used a cutoff wheel on the grinder the heat may 'blue' the stainless, and look a bit stupid.

 

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Also had to drill a new screw hole and elongate another. The lamp holes didn't quite line up, but i wasn't going to stuff around with them. Did I mention cutting stainless sux!

Hopefully I can find one of these one day but till then, sorted!

 

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Its the little things you don't realise until you are putting it together.. Had to make a bracket for these plastics, and do the wiring for the vault hole.

 

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At this point I noticed I missed a bumper post, lol.

 

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The Thing ramp needed a new steel flap so did my best to replicate the old one and replace;

 

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Now time for the side rails and backboard. I had two of the rails, but not the main one up the right side so kind of had to make it up as I went. Grabbed some nice Tassie Oak from Bunnings for those, and some ply for the backboard. Thanks for the measurements on the backboard @turbo76 !

This is the first time I have had to make side rails. FYI Tassie Oak is bloody great stuff to work with!

 

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Gave them an undercoat and first top coat late last night, will give them a light sand and another top coat tonight and they are done!

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Timber side rails finished!

 

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Just trying to figure out what needs to be done for the ramp now. Decals and Metal ramp protectors installed..

 

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Bear kick plastic installed as well as one of the switches

 

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Need to mount the rest of the switch's, and run wiring to everything.

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Really surprised me how much work was in the ramp assembly. A lot of mucking around with making the wiring loom's (one for the four switches and one for the flashers), mounting switch assemblies, soldering, drilling, etc..

 

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Make new ramp flap for shooter lane. Shooter lane ramp and wire form installed..

 

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Final coat of paint and decal application for the backboard.

 

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Spent way to much time trying to figure out this plastic setup :blink:, plus had to make the brackets for the phone plastic, rivet's..

 

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Does anyone know were these plastic's go??

 

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Also struggling to find the left ramp entrance switch bracket. If anyone happens to have one lying around they want to sell me that would be awesome!

 

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Aside from a couple of minor things, the centre ramp lights (need to make plastic) and apron install looks to be all that is left..

 

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lovin' your work @FLEX :023:

 

few questions...

1. replacing the blue metal flaps for the ramps, where did you get the mushroom head rivets?

2. are they aluminium? zinc plated brass?

3. the bookcase? on the circle that rotates? where you made the bracket....there are some what look like mini metal posts.

4. are they mini metal posts?

5. do they go through the playfield with a nut on the other side or self tapping?

6. can you please tell me the height from the base of the post where it sits on the playfield to the tip of the post?

7. can you give me a part number for them please?

Cheers :)

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lovin' your work @FLEX :023:

 

few questions...

1. replacing the blue metal flaps for the ramps, where did you get the mushroom head rivets?

2. are they aluminium? zinc plated brass?

3. the bookcase? on the circle that rotates? where you made the bracket....there are some what look like mini metal posts.

4. are they mini metal posts?

5. do they go through the playfield with a nut on the other side or self tapping?

6. can you please tell me the height from the base of the post where it sits on the playfield to the tip of the post?

7. can you give me a part number for them please?

Cheers :)

 

No worries Rich!;

 

1. I got these from PSPA, part number 07-6688-18N rivet 3/16 x 1/8 nickel

2. Nickel plated brass I assume :unsure

3. If you mean the post's on the actual turntable then yes they are, part number 02-4003 from the manual

4. yes, see above

5. They go through the turntable and have nuts underneath.

6. Cant right now, but just go with the above part number and you should be sweet.

Anything else let me know :)

Edited by FLEX
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Had to make the plastic for the Thing ramp, once again just used a piece of acrylic from Bunnings and tried to replicate the original off images etc;

 

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Wiring done and installed.

 

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Had to make a loom for the wireform switch and flasher, tidy up a few things here and there as well.

I think I just have to install the apron decals, fit the thing, and maybe I am done...?

 

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P/F DONE !!!

 

Just need to track down that left ramp wire gate bracket (looks like Marco's may have one that should work), tidy up (few cable ties) the wiring underneath, and its on to the cab!

 

Man, completely underestimated just how much work this would be, even though I have done big restore's before, this was on a whole other level.

Not out of the weed's yet though as the cab still needs to be done, but these are fairly generic and straight forward, unlike the p/f.

 

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Anyone know were this wire form goes, in one of the subway's perhaps?

 

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Time for a big cleanup lol !!

 

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- - - Updated - - -

 

Can someone advise me what are the correct flipper button switches for a TAF (part number)? They dont reference them in the manual, and in the TAF Gold manual they reference the switches but they are the opto version.

I do have some spare opto switches though, is it worth using these instead?

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