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Virtual Reality (VR) Pinball is the missing link between Virtual Pinball & Real Pins


ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma

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Update: If you're new to this thread, just skip to post #47 as we're not using the Remap board as discussed up until then.

 

I just got a PS VR and am enjoying Pinball FX2 VR on my PS4. I must say it's a real game changer.

 

I own 2 real pinballs (and am/was(?) in the process of building a VP - long story) and I've heard others say that VP is crap because it's just not the same as real pinball (being 2d and all). Now with VR pinball, I personally feel that 'just not the same' feeling has been removed. Playing tables in VR feels like you're playing at a real pinball. Having played the tables in Zen Pinball, I must say it's amazing playing the same tables in PBFX2 VR, going from a flat 2d playfield to a fully immersing 3D playfield.

 

And now with the PinSim (http://www.tested.com/tech/gaming/569647-how-build-pinsim-virtual-reality-pinball-machine/) you can make it feel like your standing at a real table while playing VR pinball.

 

The above link is for an Occulus Rift/PC version, but with this PS4 remap board (

) you can build your own PS4 PinSim.

 

I've ordered a remap board and @hotty's gonna help me build one (and thanks to @DallasJ for steering me in the right direction to find the remap board).

 

Watch this space for more details in the (hopefully) near future... Now, if only Pinball Arcade went full VR on a PS4!!

Edited by ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma
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We have to somehow mimic this back and full forward motion then back to rest, with a combination of springs and mechanical contraption with a real plunger.

 

Is it not possible to use the main shaft of the plunger as a wire-wound variable resistor, and tap that into the analogue control ports?

It's basically just a common ground with two inputs either side anyway.

Then you could achieve a more realistic experience, with the right striking velocity, and less moving parts.

 

Might be getting way ahead of myself here, but seems plausible with the right resistance values?

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I was thinking of the resistor style but wasn't quite sure how it would work against the PS4 controller and its length of play. One he gets the analogue joystick I'll have a play with it and see if we can Frankenstein it, I feel like a crazy doctor at the moment.
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you could always just attach the plunger to one of these?

 

http://au.element14.com/bourns/ptb0143-2010bpb103/potentiometer-slide-10k-100mm/dp/1688409

 

The PS4 Analogue potentiometers are 10K linear, with a 0-255 range.

The link above is within the same range, so I don't see how it wouldn't work.

The springs on the actual plunger would serve for self centering the resistor.

2354567-40.jpg.9dc8f3679f975cd005671edcb40a7f22.jpg

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you could always just attach the plunger to one of these?

 

http://au.element14.com/bourns/ptb0143-2010bpb103/potentiometer-slide-10k-100mm/dp/1688409

 

The PS4 Analogue potentiometers are 10K linear, with a 0-255 range.

The link above is within the same range, so I don't see how it wouldn't work.

The springs on the actual plunger would serve for self centering the resistor.

 

 

Oh no :o. When hotty sees this, he's going to have flashbacks. We've already discussed the sliding pot option and it didn't go well. That's why he's seeing (and I'm paying for) a therapist :lol.

 

Here's a picture of him riding to his first therapy session:

 

first-blood-sylvester-stallone-rambo.jpg.1885965425a5edf542e6751333ba837f.jpg

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I think the issue is the way the plunge works in the actual game play where it sits on zero pulls back eg -5 then has to go forward past 0 then onto eg + 5 or less not into too much detail for those figures. If it were simply slide back and plunge then I'd say your spot on as I thought of this too and also thought of an treble/ bass slider type slider when you have a centre point with +& - values . Anyway I have to take my meds unless i want to wear my special tailored jacket.
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I think the issue is the way the plunge works in the actual game play where it sits on zero pulls back eg -5 then has to go forward past 0 then onto eg + 5 .

So the issue is the forward reading? meaning you want a higher resistance value back (the most range), and lower value forward (limited range)?

would changing the spring on the plunger work for this? so it has more forward momentum once released?

failing that, use a dual resistor, have one set for negative (pulling) and use a logarithmic resistor (steeper resistance curve) at a lower value set for positive (forward momentum)?

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Thanks now I've got 2 dudes doing my head in. :unsure On a more serious note that's why I opted for the replacement joystick as it should register with a stronger spring, but won't really know until the part arrives. They are cheap to buy
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Thanks now I've got 2 dudes doing my head in. :unsure On a more serious note that's why I opted for the replacement joystick as it should register with a stronger spring, but won't really know until the part arrives. They are cheap to buy

 

Hei, at least he's not "thinking in 1's and 0's" ;)

 

Oh, and make that 3 dudes. Don't forget @DallasJ has been very helpful too!!

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Would a DJ's Cross Fader work? That's got a centre starting point of 0. Or is that a standard Sliding Pot made to work that way through all the other electronics in a DJ mixer?

 

Disclaimer: If you haven't already worked it out, I know nothing about electronics, hence hotty's recent mental issues :lol.

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Would a DJ's Cross Fader work? That's got a center starting point of 0. Or is that a standard Sliding Pot made to work that way through all the other electronics in a DJ mixer?

 

It's the same principal... the ground is connected to the common, and the left and right positive are connected at either ends of the pot, allowing you to fade channels.

 

They all have a center of about 128, even the DJ slide.... to get a true zero, take off one side and turn/slide in that direction (volume works like this).

 

What I was suggesting before is have the y+ set to only one end of one slide, and the y- set to the opposite end on another slide, with a common ground between them.

 

That way you can attach the slides at center on any position of the plunger.

 

By using a logarithmic on the y+ you give it a steeper curve, allowing for more sudden increase in peak power toward the end of the range, which is kind of what you want on a pinball plunger where the travel of the shaft increases in velocity with the more distance traveled.

 

Difference between the two:

 

in linear, center is rated at about 50% (or about 50% equal resistance each side)

in logarithmic, center is only rated at 10% (so about 90% resistance)

 

See the chart below

 

http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/linlog10-jpg.60309/

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I think this all really depends how the PS4 controller is used for the plunger input. I can't see why it would go from 0 to -10, to +10, unless it supports a positive plunger nudge like you can do on real tables. If this is the case a DJ fader slide could work connected the plunger in parallel to the physical plunger shaft to capture the movement range.

 

If this is not the case and only 0 to -10 return to 0 for launch is need only, a long pot slide in that same setup above could work. I use this on my VPIN setup.

 

Or physically link the plunger via mechanical links using pivot points to the ps4 analogue joystick pivot switch. A bit clunky / tricky to get happening, but mounted right it'd work all the same.

 

I don't have a PS4 to test any of this on so just guessing at this point, you really need to understand the movement values of the ps4 virtual plunger first if you want to know how to go on the pot slider Plath. A few basic tests should enable you to find out how the ps4 plunge input and travel range works, if you want to see if a pot slider would work.

 

The technically simpler mechanical option. Mount the anlogue joystick switch mechanically linked far enough away (with pivots) from the end of the plunger to geared the plunger travel range to the ps4 switch travel range. That'd do it too.

 

Happy hunting!!

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Reason why I mentioned the +/0/- ranges is because if you pull back and let go, it goes back to rest and does nothing. Not like a real plunger. You have to physically, with your thumb, push all the way forward. Again not like a real plunger.

 

So we need to mimic that full motion with the springs in the plunger.

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Part that I don't get is how you are going to get a half pull to have a enough force to do a full push. With friction, spring absorption, etc you might not even get it on full pull back to do a full push as you would have to place the stick half way, which is basically the body of the cab.

 

Sent from my HTC 2PZF1 using Tapatalk

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Part that I don't get is how you are going to get a half pull to have a enough force to do a full push. With friction, spring absorption, etc you might not even get it on full pull back to do a full push as you would have to place the stick half way, which is basically the body of the cab.

 

Sent from my HTC 2PZF1 using Tapatalk

 

That's what I think is confusing them and will be the challenge... for hotty :lol

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