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Sega Rally pc conversion


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The wheel stays engaged when turned to the left or right for me too. I'm unsure if its meant to recentre or if thats just a quirk of the L2M2 setup. Still mucking around with it.

 

 

OK, I'm glad yours shows the same behaviour. I've reached out to the massive 64 page thread on the french forums and see what they say.

 

Someone on BYOAC mentioned that it should re-centre, so if that is the case, it has to be a configuration issue within the M2 ini file since the behaviour is not there when you press a button in the profiler.

 

I can't recall at the moment but I've started building a new PC to do some testing. Will let you know what I find

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Awesome. That'd be good to know.

 

Your Sega Rally video doesn't appear to get locked at full stop of CW and CCW and appears to centre around the 1 minute mark.

 

I'll continue to search the net with ini settings.

 

In the mean time, I'll try and sort the pedals out this weekend so I can actually sit down on it and use the accelerate and brake! :)

 

A bit off topic, but do you guys know the rating of the potentionmeter for the steering wheel pedals on the logitech? I've thrown everything away except for the pcb and the cables, but it seems the potentionmeter is required for the pedal shifters because the two buttons are always "yellow" in the profiler and I'm assuming that means it's being shown as "button pressed"

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The wheel stays engaged when turned to the left or right for me too. I'm unsure if its meant to recentre or if thats just a quirk of the L2M2 setup. Still mucking around with it.

 

Definitely not a quirk! Read on! :)

 

Someone on BYOAC mentioned that it should re-centre, so if that is the case, it has to be a configuration issue within the M2 ini file since the behaviour is not there when you press a button in the profiler

 

How wrong was I?!

 

Tipped by bandicoot on the BYOAC, he stated the following:

 

if wheel you right when you go turn it right and left when you turn left , you must inverse wire

 

After swapping around the CW and CCW wires on the L2M2, there was no more constant locking on each side and the springs provided the centering of the wheel when the FFB motor stopped!

 

 

That makes the wheel officially a wrap!

 

Bring on the pedals!!!

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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Just flipped the wires, all good self centres now thanks.

Playing Daytona the wheel jolts when driving on the grass and very occasionally when hitting a vehicle but not when hitting a wall.

Looks like there is a bit more tweaking to do in the settings.

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Yeah I'm still tweaking a few of those settings, the main thing is it centres. It's just a matter of finding the sweet spot for the ini file.

 

I'll be trying these settings at some point too which hopefully fixes up a lot of those jolts and hits.

 

;FORCE EFFECTS PARAMETERS

;FE_CENTERING Effect (Spring centering effect)

FE_CENTERING_Gain=4.5 ;Global gain

FE_CENTERING_Coefficient=10000 ;0-10000

FE_CENTERING_Saturation=10000 ;0-10000

FE_CENTERING_Deadband=500 ;10%

 

;FE_CLUTCH Effect (Friction, wheel turn hardness)

FE_CLUTCH_Gain=4.0 ;Global gain

FE_CLUTCH_Coefficient=10000 ;0-10000

 

;FE_LEFT,FE_RIGHT (Constant force in a direction)

FE_LEFT_Gain=4.0 ;Global gain

FE_LEFT_Magnitude=10000 ;0-10000

FE_RIGHT_Gain=4.0 ;Global gain

FE_RIGHT_Magnitude=10000 ;0-10000

 

 

;FE_UNCENTERING (Sine force, wave the wheel, rumble)

FE_UNCENTERING_Gain=2.0 ;Global gain

FE_UNCENTERING_Magnitude=10000 ;0-10000

FE_UNCENTERING_Offset=-200

FE_UNCENTERING_Phase=0

FE_UNCENTERING_Period=56000

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Loving the progress,

 

Do you have a photo of the wires that you had to change (flip)? Before after.

Trying to put a reference together. Using your posting as a reference that will save me time.

 

(currently trying to work out four lcd 16:10 monitors that can be found at a good price and at a size that will fit nicely in the Sega vituras is doing my head in)

 

Thanks for sharing,

 

Red

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Loving the progress,

 

Do you have a photo of the wires that you had to change (flip)? Before after.

Trying to put a reference together. Using your posting as a reference that will save me time.

 

(currently trying to work out four lcd 16:10 monitors that can be found at a good price and at a size that will fit nicely in the Sega vituras is doing my head in)

 

Thanks for sharing,

 

Red

 

No I don't have a pic. Plus it won't be a good reference since the colour of my wires are all over the place. On the model 2 wheel, if the original harness still exists, you'd have a 4 pin molex connector that's coloured Brown, Dark purple and pink.

 

Pink is the 100ac wire that needs to go to a step down tranny.

Brown should go into CCW

Purple goes into CW

 

I had it the other way around in post 58.

 

I'm pretty jelly you have 4! I'd love to get a second project cab so I can have a twin.

 

Trying to now get the pedals in order but the m2 emulator doesn't appear to register the pedals in game. It works perfectly fine in the profiler, and I make sure I select it in the controls section, but it wont' accelerate/brake - I can even use it to select the course... more software issues!!! I hate you! :@ :@ :@

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To save you some hair pulling, the pedals in Daytona will need to be reversed in the model 2 settings. Accelerate needs to be brake and vice versa.

 

Is it just purely for Daytona?

 

It's bloody weird AF... When I have accelerate in the settings for the logitech accelerate, and brake for brake, the step on the gas option works properly when selecting a course, but I found out that the accelerate was the brake when in the game.

 

The moment I switched them around, brake was to accelerate.. it's bloody confusing!

 

I haven't crimped a connector yet as I'm still trying to get my head around it.

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While trying to get the pedals to work I would try testing with Sega Rally first, once working then try and sort out Daytona.

What connections are you using for the pedals, the RJ11 or the paddle connections from the Logitech PCB.

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I'm using the RJ11 connections.

 

My pedal potentiometer are as follows:

 

I don't really know much about electronics or the intricacies of potentiometers, but there's three wires in each one and the pink and brown ones go to the same connector.

 

17297edddd6d0fd40a5dd77d946ca11e.jpg

 

cf81929274d8ad9e6bfc2c8b3e713c84.jpg

 

How I've wired mine

 

Sega/harness/logitech

 

Accelerator

 

Brown/Brown/yellow

Pink/red and black/white

Blue/blue/red

 

Brake

 

Brown/Brown/yellow

Pink/red and black/white

Black/black/green

 

b2cb77250cbc0d62cb5aa32dc2ec631c.jpg

 

When it's wired up like this, the brake in the profiler increases from left to right and the accelerator goes from right to left

 

I managed to get it to work in daytona then I wasn't sure what else I did and the pedal settings are all lost and refuses to work.

 

I'll be going at it again very shortly..

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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There are settings in logitech profiler to inverse the pedal, so when you push, it will reverse what it does. There are also settings in model 2 emulator to change the pedals. I don't have l2m2, but when setting it up with my Logitech G25 it was a lot of trial and error to find the right pedal settings for Daytona.
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I'm using the RJ11 connections.

 

My pedal potentiometer are as follows:

 

I don't really know much about electronics or the intricacies of potentiometers, but there's three wires in each one and the pink and brown ones go to the same connector.

 

How I've wired mine

 

Sega/harness/logitech

 

Accelerator

 

Brown/Brown/yellow

Pink/red and black/white

Blue/blue/red

 

Brake

 

Brown/Brown/yellow

Pink/red and black/white

Black/black/green

 

b2cb77250cbc0d62cb5aa32dc2ec631c.jpg

 

When it's wired up like this, the brake in the profiler increases from left to right and the accelerator goes from right to left

 

I managed to get it to work in daytona then I wasn't sure what else I did and the pedal settings are all lost and refuses to work.

 

I'll be going at it again very shortly..

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

So if it works fine in the profiler test then it would be settings in the M2. As Patrick said above I needed to invert mine for them to work and then Daytona was extra work of configuring so I would recommend testing with Sega Rally first.

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So far so good with Daytona and Sega rally using the following settings:

 

Accelerate: Analog Joy 1 Accelerator

Brake: Brake (inverse)

 

When I was setting it up in M2 Emulator, I had to "reset" when I selected the analog options.

 

Time to crimp up the connector for the pedal! and solder to the Logitech RJ11 connections

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Pedal connector all wired up, configure in m2 emulator so the pedal is done and dusted!

 

25ca11990a7548d03871b1dbbbe782cb.jpg

 

Last but not the least, the shifter! :)

 

986cc40bbf9266a371fc7cd5fcba00ef.jpg

 

Since I'm using ryan555's 3 wire to 4 wire pcb, it should make it much easier, otherwise, I would have needed to make my own 3 wire to 4 wire circuit.

 

Will test this shifter, but I have a daytona 2 shifter coming - prefer the gear stick on than the sega rally one.

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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Hahaha well I've completed stuffed it up!

 

I tried putting to native resolution 24khz by switching the resolution jumper from 15 kHz to 24 kHz and then when I enabled EDID in crt emudriver for the arcade 25 kHz (with the 15khz and 24khz jumper set on the jpac) I just get this

 

46c8067d6b55b024211ada1b39e78342.jpg

 

Now when I tried setting it back to 15 kHz, I just can't seem to get it to work again..

 

28166c4c51ed6275fc9541caff0f4671.jpg

 

I don't believe I've stuffed my chassis as the Pandora still shows up

 

235d2ebcd49bb8f4342d16604e580088.jpg

 

I'll try uninstalling crt emudriver and re install it again.

 

Edit:

 

And we're back! Phew... I didn't kill my chassis!

 

cfb8c10c5314e948fdde05433fa72d3b.jpg

 

Fixed by uninstalling and reinstalling crt emudriver.

 

Anybody here with a 24 kHz setup for the model 2 emulator with CRT emudriver?

Edited by mR_CaESaR
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Yep, but I set it up so long ago that I may not be much help. You need to set your desktop display to 1024x768i using the CRT_EMU driver res selector tool. You then need to edit your Model 2 emulator ini to start the game at 496x384, which is the correct 24khz res that Model 2 games run at.

 

I also have my J-PAC set to only 24khz, so I remove the 15khz jumper entirely and only have a jumper on 24khz.

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