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Thomas the tank engine. TTTE.


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All done in black now. I've also made the crank discs with an integral cam so I can tell when the crank is at the bottom of its travel. I thought this might be handy as it will indicate when Harold has landed on the Helipad and when the Fat Controller figure is standing upright.

Well that's about it for a week and a half, we're off to Umina for a week.[emoji16]

See ya later Trev.1ed316627d582ac8f9e680ecf73b0ab7.jpgbf4ebbc7ecf125728fe5cc90f664e553.jpg

 

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All done in black now. I've also made the crank discs with an integral cam so I can tell when the crank is at the bottom of its travel. I thought this might be handy as it will indicate when Harold has landed on the Helipad and when the Fat Controller figure is standing upright.

Well that's about it for a week and a half, we're off to Umina for a week.[emoji16]

See ya later Trev.1ed316627d582ac8f9e680ecf73b0ab7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

If you use a hollow pipe you could run the copter wires inside that.

 

Alternatively

 

Put some black heat shrink over the pipe & wires.

Edited by ozfalcon
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If you use a hollow pipe you could run the copter wires inside that.

 

Alternatively

 

Put some black heat shrink over the pipe & wires.

I had thought of using 1/8 brass tube and running the positive wire down the guts and the tube as ground, I even went as far as buying some, but I chose the 3mm threaded rod as it's easy to adjust and lock parts in place and it's already black.[emoji16]

I probably will use heatshrink tubing to hold the wires in place.

Cheers Trev

 

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So I'm back from a weeks holidays and there were 17 parcels waiting for me at the post office,[emoji38] mostly electronic components.

I grabbed a bit of time with the soldering iron this morning and finished off the Fat Controller board, the stepper board and two pulse stretcher boards.

976d4a474cbc1144b7e805e5edb94f31.jpg

I now have the nyloc nuts to finish mounting the tracks for the engine shed, more inserts and flipper parts so Wednesday and Thursday are looking to be busy days.

Cheers Trev

 

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Four more parcels today.[emoji16]

One was the display controller board. It's basically a breakout board to simplify the wiring between the display and Fat Controller boards. There will be a 4 core shielded cable that runs from the 4 pins at the bottom left to the Fat Controller board.

f23f0bc2e50ff9e227e2a56b82406c04.jpg

32c2ebd85c03b3fcb0e802406b6af661.jpg

Something like this but shielded.

2d5ffb62f74a33374d377d368bb7a24f.jpg

It'll convert the score to three 8 bit numbers on the Fat Controller board then send them via serial to the display controller that converts the three 8 bit numbers back to the score and keeps the display refreshed.

Cheers Trev

 

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Edited by BIG Trev
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Whoops.

It looks like I'll have to remove the counterbalance weight from Harold as it overhangs the track.[emoji16]

The motor unit I've ordered for this has a worm drive gearbox and runs at 6rpm so I'm hoping it'll have enough grunt to lift the 62g helicopter.

I've fully refurbished and fitted the flipper mechs and mounted all of the engine shed tracks and engines. I still need to tweak a couple of the engines though.

I've also mounted the three solenoid boards, the Fat controlled board in its metal case and the stepper controller in its metal case 0d5688a418f5227f3e1a409daa66fb1e.jpgfdf1b9c32b5aa7bc3b973ae2a989251e.jpg

 

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Yes they do and by the looks of it built using the best parts. Nice job Trev.
Thanks Steve,

Some of the threads were stripped in the base plates so I swapped the flippers over to the other side of the plates. The base plate is a universal design so you can use it for both left or right flippers you just need to tap threads into the unused holes and swap everything over.

I installed new Homepin coils and sleeves, new plungers with links (yeah I went with new ones), new EOS switches, new shiny screws and a couple of NOS bushes I had laying around and they're working fine. I threw on some Williams bats with black rubbers and it all looks good and they move freely.

Cheers Treva2a32c7037ac9a0b2f8ddbfe1edd7abd.jpg

 

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Thanks Steve,

Some of the threads were stripped in the base plates so I swapped the flippers over to the other side of the plates. The base plate is a universal design so you can use it for both left or right flippers you just need to tap threads into the unused holes and swap everything over.

I installed new Homepin coils and sleeves, new plungers with links (yeah I went with new ones), new EOS switches, new shiny screws and a couple of NOS bushes I had laying around and they're working fine. I threw on some Williams bats with black rubbers and it all looks good and they move freely.

 

Yep they do look nice. Have you heard the idea of mounting the coil with the terminals in the middle of the base plate rather than at the end like you and Bally and just about everyone else did originally?.

 

It is "supposed" to have less vibration and therefore less chance of breaking the wires or solder joints on the coils.

 

I personally have my doubts as to exactly what big difference it makes as it seemed to be OK doing exactly as you did for years to me.

 

I will give you a tip I have done with success though. The coils on pinballs often have a wafer washer where the coil goes through the coil mounts to stop vibration of the coil and they do work extremely well but you can achieve exactly the same outcome if you put a very slight bend in the face of the coil mount bracket face so it isn't dead flat that actually touches the coil.

 

Not only does this slight bend stop any vibration without the wafer washer, you are also making a stress release point over the whole face of the coil mount rather than just the fold point and the coil mount bracket is far less inclined to snap over time at the factory fold point.

 

Give it a go, it costs you nothing to try and it may just make your coil brackets last a little longer as well as having no vibrating coils on your machines.;)

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He's got to be the world's most patient three year old.[emoji16] He gets underneath the playfield and turns the motor so he can see the Fat Controller move.[emoji6]

4ce98337322ca05e1c9b33780eb32f1e.jpg

I received the motor that will lift Harold today so I'll start working on a mounting bracket for it and its associated micro switch.

I also received the pulse stretcher boards that plug into a readily available relay board. I was thinking of using them to turn the motors on but I won't have control over where the toy stops so I'm not 100% sure if I'll use these (for this purpose), I'm thinking of making one last controller board for all the animated toys instead that will have inputs for micro switches that tell the controller when to stop the motors.

Cheers Trev

 

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Edited by BIG Trev
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Before things go past the point of no return

I thought I should mention something about orbit1 the flipper and return lane angle.

Let's start where Hankin ended.IMG_20180209_153218047.thumb.jpg.551ff9b7986cb1fa55ae4d12dc77d032.jpg

Orbit 1 was like their first game and they hadn't got the physics down yet ( how could they ).

I thought since you've changed the actual flipper

you could also tweek the return lanes to what is a similar layout.fj.jpg.5c5f2b45084fefbf49d44b3e704b9d72.jpg

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Before things go past the point of no return

I thought I should mention something about orbit1 the flipper and return lane angle.

Let's start where Hankin ended.[ATTACH=CONFIG]123825[/ATTACH]

Orbit 1 was like their first game and they hadn't got the physics down yet ( how could they ).

I thought since you've changed the actual flipper

you could also tweek the return lanes to what is a similar layout.[ATTACH=CONFIG]123827[/ATTACH]

So are you saying it would be beneficial to make the lanes and flippers sit at a steeper angle?

 

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Yes , the shots on this game always seem to be forehand shots. As kids we could hardly ever get a decent spinner rip or vari-target max...

 

the flipper isn't in its power band at that angle.

 

...gripe end

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