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Lethal Weapon 3 Restore


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It scares me to fe rubber a Sinbad single level playfield, let alone undo and strip everything? But that’s what it takes to make them beautiful again. [emoji41]

 

Exactly. A lot of these machines have most likely never been stripped and cleaned down, or they have a long time ago. The first one I stripped was a Getaway HS2 a couple of years ago. It absolutely frightened the crap out of me as I was scared I would never be capable of putting her back together again. Anyway, with some advice from members here and plenty of photographs taken along the way, I managed to perform the task and complete it successfully. I just placed all nuts, bolts, screws, washers, etc, for each part removed in zip lock bags (had a few sizes of bags) and numbered them from 1. I then just started at the highest number to put it all back referring to my photos each stage. The more you do, the easier and more confident one becomes, like anything. I am sure there are members here who just throw it all into a tub or box and just know what goes where. I am nowhere near that stage but getting there. It's just very time consuming but rewarding as hell.

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578453936_strippedPF.thumb.jpg.3edb6ac8851fc52d53736fdf1d2c4936.jpg

 

Mostly stripped PF now and gave it a good clean today. Came up very nice too. Need to take the pops apart and clean them and also replace flipper bats. Will also replace all coil sleeves and give the assemblies and decent strip and clean.

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Hi Glenn, where did you get the rear label from ( the backbox Allen key detail ) ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

A mate ordered a few from Marco in the US. I used our high end photocopier at work to just copy one of his onto plain white A4 label paper I sourced from Officeworks (we only had small plain labels at work). I did a few so can send one if you wish. Will grab a pic of what I have left.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

label.thumb.jpg.bbdb79cccceee62046ec4bc9af68cc49.jpg

 

2 x left. I could print more but would want to do this from the original, so would need to get that back off my mate - am more than happy to do. The only issue is when you tighten up the cab lock bolts over the label, just don't do them too tight as the small square part of the head will tear the label unless you make the hole in the label slightly bigger than the square part of the bolt. Easy to do - hard to explain.

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A mate ordered a few from Marco in the US. I used our high end photocopier at work to just copy one of his onto plain white A4 label paper I sourced from Officeworks (we only had small plain labels at work). I did a few so can send one if you wish. Will grab a pic of what I have left.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]123048[/ATTACH]

 

2 x left. I could print more but would want to do this from the original, so would need to get that back off my mate - am more than happy to do. The only issue is when you tighten up the cab lock bolts over the label, just don't do them too tight as the small square part of the head will tear the label unless you make the hole in the label slightly bigger than the square part of the bolt. Easy to do - hard to explain.

 

A nice scan would be good :)

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Come and get the og when ever you want mate , or he can down load the file from inco , hang on it's Australia Day to many beers down to remember, hope everyone is having a great day

 

Ok will do. Now, aren't you driving to Heathcote today? Or maybe you're already there drinking. Go easy on the beers mate. Your little man will follow in your footsteps. Enjoy the day and weekend.

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A mate ordered a few from Marco in the US. I used our high end photocopier at work to just copy one of his onto plain white A4 label paper I sourced from Officeworks (we only had small plain labels at work). I did a few so can send one if you wish. Will grab a pic of what I have left.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]123048[/ATTACH]

 

2 x left. I could print more but would want to do this from the original, so would need to get that back off my mate - am more than happy to do. The only issue is when you tighten up the cab lock bolts over the label, just don't do them too tight as the small square part of the head will tear the label unless you make the hole in the label slightly bigger than the square part of the bolt. Easy to do - hard to explain.

 

Thanks Glenn that is generous of you. I believe railways is sorting the logistics for a couple. I have also just found pdf is on inkochnitos website, Cheers

 

 

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Ordered all the new correct LED's for the machine and awaiting same. In the meantime, started cleaning up the coil and assemblies and replacing sleeves. Done a couple already on the top of the PF (kicker and ball trough coils).

 

1046184881_coil1.jpg.9c13eaa1f61cdfa3ed240d36b26ba0f4.jpg371987357_Coil2.jpg.54718ff9448879fc5556c136f0c98e14.jpg1963437388_coil3.JPG.d892cd3214c33c62eaafe85322fded12.JPG1061893805_coil4.JPG.e8629f3213a48dc62b1bbe310a034bdc.JPG1119956539_coil5.JPG.2feea13e466e639c6f54c80e99e7ef19.JPG1120254443_coil6.JPG.cc9f7c6288e861ce592d667a3275ce0c.JPG1307681784_sleeve1.jpg.c5b10d022f1d124958d2d88953aae058.jpg2076560110_sleeve2.jpg.3727f0a806c5e4d09de0cd5d8ede8db3.jpg

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Did some more on top of the PF today and 95% complete. Have installed all the LED's (thanks @BioBa for supplying). After discussions with the owner, went with simple formula of superbright white under PF inserts (44/47 & 555), frosted white on top and around PF (44/47), bright 89 flex-flashers under and on top of PF, frosted 555 and 906 behind translite and there are a few coloured ones around on signs on the PF that I have left alone. Replaced the top PF coil sleeves and cleaned, all new rubbers, plastics cleaned, ramps cleaned, new flipper bats, etc, etc - basically as good as it was new. Even installed some of those clear plastic washers to further protect the plastics that Babak sells.

 

IMG_8403.thumb.jpg.4450d15b4a3c5aea644cf466c639f7d0.jpg1432151288_LED1.thumb.jpg.5cb450a1c1461e6d47c0586f72cff408.jpg2002267144_LED2.thumb.JPG.ab3e1a962737931ab9b517bb5d640696.JPG

 

Then I noticed the ramp that had come apart and needs repairing. Would greatly appreciate some advice on this, but am thinking of calling by a metal welding factory around the corner and slipping them a little cash to just touch the welder on it. I have no idea about welding but don't think it would take much to fix.

 

IMG_8401.thumb.JPG.5edfffa6011b5eeaf0bd7915aa21afc9.JPGIMG_8402.thumb.jpg.c540c6494918b078e2047409c1538a56.jpg

 

As soon as the ramp is repaired, will spin it over and complete the remaining coil sleeve replacement and a detailed clean of all assemblies and other misc parts. Then into the cabinet she goes.

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That should be a quick and simple fix if you are taking it to a metal shop. If someone came into our work shop to get that done we probably wouldn't even charge them. If you were local I'd happily do it for you.

 

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Thanks heaps for that. Feel confident about getting it done tomorrow then. Cheers.

 

Concern is whether it's aluminium or steel as could make things difficult re welding. But I'm tipping the ramp is steel, as it feels like steel.

Edited by Glenn70
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Thanks heaps for that. Feel confident about getting it done tomorrow then. Cheers.

 

Concern is whether it's aluminium or steel as could make things difficult re welding. But I'm tipping the ramp is steel, as it feels like steel.

It's not aluminum (although even that can be welded). It's most likely stainless steel, rather than steel, to stop it from rusting. The ramps are spot welded when originally made but can be welded with TIG or MIG welder (although results can vary a little)

 

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

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That should be a quick and simple fix if you are taking it to a metal shop. If someone came into our work shop to get that done we probably wouldn't even charge them. If you were local I'd happily do it for you.

 

Sent from my SM-G900I using Aussie Arcade mobile app

I know now where to send a few of my ramps to be fixed ... oh "if you were local ..." hmm local a relative term right??? Melb not that far away lol

 

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It's not aluminum (although even that can be welded). It's most likely stainless steel, rather than steel, to stop it from rusting. The ramps are spot welded when originally made but can be welded with TIG or MIG welder (although results can vary a little)

 

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

Easy to weld with an arc welder too. Just use stainless rods. If I can do it anyone can as I am useless at welding.

 

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IMG_8410.thumb.JPG.81d06225590d78f05c418c594ddf6f75.JPG

 

Got the job done no charge after I offered him some cash. Just attended the local metal welder/fabricator and he did it in 20secs. Called TIG fusion weld or similar. Anyhow, did the job, so thanks for those that replied.

Edited by Glenn70
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PF now spun over and work started on this side. Coil sleeves to all be replaced, assemblies stripped and cleaned, all wiring cleaned up and anything else that's required

 

292122618_PFupsidedown.thumb.jpg.804d3bc8663870568c9492134ce0584b.jpg

 

Have done the flipper coils and assemblies and came across what appears to be brass coil sleeves the flipper coils. Have never seen these before and only thought they were all just plastic.

 

2042708824_metalcoilsleeve.thumb.JPG.ee24fa603b600a880dd411483bc7e506.JPG

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