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Lethal Weapon 3 Restore


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Nice going to be great once done. Can i ask what you paid for it?

 

Paid $3500 off eBay. Seller is also a member here. Wasn't advertised through AA.

 

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My mate @newy16216 attended this morning and attacked the base with the router - exactly the same as we did with the WH20 earlier in the year. Made sure we left enough side cab timber but took enough away to just hit out the base with a hammer. Came away pretty easily after some chisel work. I am replacing the base with 12mm MDF. Most suitable sized sheet was 1800mm x 600mm for $21 from Bunnings The original base is marginally thinner than the new 12mm base - maybe 10mm? Also comparing the WH20 restore to the LW3 restore and noticing a difference between the BW and DE machines. Personally, the BW machines seem to be slightly better constructed and have things on them the DE machines don't. Only minor things but still, both very similar to work on.

 

I have cut out the new base and made the 4 vent holes at the rear of it. Have also cut out some other pieces to replace the existing timber pieces inside the cab (coin tray guide and timber under switch surround tin). I used 16mm for this, as had some in shed and the original pieces that DE used were thicker than the base anyway, so trying to keep it mostly the same. I intend to also use another piece of timber under the transformer, similar to the BW machines, as the LW3 just had the transformer bolted directly to the base.

 

Tomorrow I will cut out a smaller speaker hole (as new speaker going to be used) and apply the first coat of the 3 x coats of clear. I will fully complete the base but not install just yet, as want to sand and spray black the inside of the cab. This is much easier to do with the base missing, as saves masking the base up.

 

Base and trim (Tas Oak 9mm x 9mm) will be fitted using timber glue, small screws and nails, then sand down the trim to be level with the undersides of the cab (also spray the underside of cab and base black). Then onto the sanding and repairing the outside cab. Will post pics as I go.

 

 

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Speaker hole cut out......

 

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Also completed the 16mm MDF pieces to replicate the original sizes.......

 

 

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Cleaned up the inside of the cab with chisel and removed all staples, old glue, etc. Also removed the small triangular shaped wedges brackets and will move them towards the rear of the cab to allow for the timber piece that will fit under the transformer (as per BW cabs).

 

 

Confirming the base fits snug and everything lines up. Then a light sand with 320 grit......

 

 

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First coat of clear. A bit blotchy in photograph as wet. When dry, will sand lightly with 500/1000 grit and then another two coats......

 

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The old girl is unimpressed.....

 

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Cab is fully sanded as per my standard methods (80 grit, then go over finer and finer again, until very smooth.) and kids reckon I looked like a Smurf! I also sanded the inside cab and started to spray black satin.

 

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Unfortunately hit a snag with the rear of the cab as major delaminating. Started pulling away thin pieces of ply until I couldn't remove any more. Structurally ok but looks shithouse. Sought some advice with various fillers/bogs/epoxy resins, etc, and even laminating the outside. Chose this product called 'Earl's', available at Bunnings and powder form, so mix with water. Dries real hard too and came highly recommended for use in my application. So far so good but just didn't want to root around replacing the entire back. Have started to use the builders bog to fill smaller areas, especially around where the legs attach near the base of the cab. Plenty more work to go until spray filler/putty and final painting.

 

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Also replaced the power cord as this was damaged and just wouldn't sit comfortable with me, sending the machine off with the cord like this.....

 

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Received my PSPA order yesterday and put together the translite and backless as new black trims. Also new locking plate and cam lock. Have got new white DE flipper bats, earth braid and many more smaller items.

 

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Just catching up with Thread today mate been flat out as you are aware. This is going to look as good as the WH20 your mate is going to love it! Your cabinet work is the best i have seen by a mile keep up the good work mate.

 

You are making me blush mate. There are more talented people around than me, but I just try my best as if it was going to be my own machine.

 

Thanks for comments.

 

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Really enjoying this thread! Looking forward to the end result.

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

Cheers, and once again, thanks for comments. There are many ways to skin a cat and perform a cab restore. Some blokes sand and/or spray differently and use different products and some use dry re-decalling method and some use wet..........so on and so on. I guess as long as the final product is one the restorer can be proud of, that's what matters.

 

Hopefully others can learn and pick up a little advice along the way from my posts as I know I did, reading some of the awesome pin restores posted on AA.

 

I know LW3 is not an 'A' grade and highly sought after title, but nevertheless, a generally fun and good looking game, especially in the black edition decals.

 

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I just wish I could work faster and do this all day as I love it, but the demands of young children, work and other social events at this time of year make it hard. Hopefully will be fully completed by late Jan-Feb. Decals have been ordered so not expecting them until early Jan.

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Nice work indeed.Love your enthusiasm I had a LW3 in similar condition many years ago I picked up from a container load. I was toying around with the idea of covering the sides with aluminium checker plate with a tinted clear coat and having the LW3 laser cut and filled with opaque perspex and back lite it up. It was an idea I spent many hours pondering on but then I did a quick patch and paint and sell to purchase something else. I hope I'm in your head now to complete my dream. Doubt I will ever do it.
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Nice work indeed.Love your enthusiasm I had a LW3 in similar condition many years ago I picked up from a container load. I was toying around with the idea of covering the sides with aluminium checker plate with a tinted clear coat and having the LW3 laser cut and filled with opaque perspex and back lite it up. It was an idea I spent many hours pondering on but then I did a quick patch and paint and sell to purchase something else. I hope I'm in your head now to complete my dream. Doubt I will ever do it.

 

Yes Phil, it would look very different indeed. But then it would be one of a kind I assume. Let me see what I can do..........

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I think LW3 is a machine that warrants some unique flavour to it. Unique can only command higher $$$$. I remember Bumper Action buying a modded (BSD) Dracula encased into a casket/coffin with a folding lid. Creepy but unique.
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I wonder if black was the norm and someone decided to bring these out in blue, would we see things differently. I think the idea of the popping blue was to attract the attention of players in an arcade because that colour does stand out like the proverbial dogs b..ls.
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I wonder if black was the norm and someone decided to bring these out in blue, would we see things differently. I think the idea of the popping blue was to attract the attention of players in an arcade because that colour does stand out like the proverbial dogs b..ls.

 

You could be onto something. But surely manufacturers and operators relied on a good/winning 'theme' of a pinball machine for it's success back in the 90's. These days, the colours and artwork may not be as important to how a game plays, rules and codes, especially as the private buyer/home use owners are plentiful.

 

Interesting nonetheless, but we could start an entire new topic on this.

 

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Thanks for reminding me mate , going to be busy in 2018 with 3 cabs to do , what was I thinking, hope your free

 

 

Always free to help you out mate.

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Hi mate, I've been painstakingly doing an OCD restoration of a LW3 - was my first pin way back when so couldn't part with it. Nearly finished mine. If there's anything you need help with let me know. [emoji106]

 

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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Hi mate, I've been painstakingly doing an OCD restoration of a LW3 - was my first pin way back when so couldn't part with it. Nearly finished mine. If there's anything you need help with let me know. [emoji106]

 

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

 

Thanks mate heaps for that. At this stage, I am working on the cabinet preparing it for the decals. So much filling, sanding and overall repairing. As you know, this takes a long time. After the cab is done, I plan on putting in the playfield and stripping it, giving it a real good clean up. The playfield is very good but just going to clean plastics, polish all nuts, screw heads, wire ramps, replace coil sleeves, put in black rubbers, correct the LED's, and anything else it requires. May definitely require some help and will let you know. Thanks again.

 

I found a game token in the back of the cab, so I polished it up, drilled a small hole in it and made a keyring for the coin door and head box keys. A bit of history as the machine came from Italy.

 

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Not a lot of progress due to Xmas and kids hijacking my time to build (and paint) cubby houses and trampolines. Managed to complete the sanding and spray primer filler on the inside of the cab. Probably not really necessary as just a spray of black paint would suffice, but wanted the inside smooth with minor grain in timber filled. Came up nicely and will spray black tomorrow. Then the new base can be installed the following day.

 

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At least the cubby house came up well..............(not bad for $199 from Kmart!!!, oooopps, Santa)

 

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Well base installed. Fit in nicely with some wood glue and 6 x timber screws through the side of the cabinet into the sides of timber base. Always a MUST to pre drill pilot holes to ensure you don't miss or damage the nice clear coated base. As per the WH20 restore, I used 9mm x 9mm Tas Oak trim, glued and nailed in. The nails must be counter sunk just below the level of the bottom of the cab. This is due to the belt sander being used to take off a few mm's bringing the trim level with the original cab. Inside the cab I re-installed the triangular timber bracing (glued and screwed) and also a Bally/Williams type timber piece in the centre, across the width of the machine to support the transformer. DE I believe didn't use them but I reckon it helps support the new base and also looks good painted black. Next up - fill any holes/gaps, sand and paint the entire base underneath black. Not really necessary as it won't be seen but doesn't take long, very cheap to do and owner requested it.

 

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Also got the STTNG back in my garage indefinitely. Whilst picking it up, we noted the rear of the cab was just average (staples in timber protector pieces and splitting, some de-laminating at the bottom, general scratches/marks, etc), and it's owner asked if anything can be done. "Well", I said, "give me two hours on it and I'll try to make it a little better". A bit off topic, but took some pics of the 'STTNG rear cab refurb'........

 

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Thanks for that. Yes they are from Retro. They are laminated ones and they appear to be not as thin as others I have used. I use the dry method and they go on real easy. I find if I put the effort into the surface prep, the decals go on nicely with no wrinkles or air bubbles.
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