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Sega Rally pc conversion


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Yep. Definitely struggling with this build on the software side.

 

I've probably s.

 

Can I suggest that you download and learn to use Rocket launcher and get that to launch your emulators. That way you can use Model 2 and SuperModel (for Model3) and it will execute and close them off cleanly. The way I do it is I get each emulator to run on its own and then incorporate it into Rocket Launcher so that makes the cal on the software. It's compatible with multiple front ends as well and will make your life easier in the long run.

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Can I suggest that you download and learn to use Rocket launcher and get that to launch your emulators. That way you can use Model 2 and SuperModel (for Model3) and it will execute and close them off cleanly. The way I do it is I get each emulator to run on its own and then incorporate it into Rocket Launcher so that makes the cal on the software. It's compatible with multiple front ends as well and will make your life easier in the long run.

 

Yeah, I think I'll be installing rocket launcher as a way to manage the launching of different roms.

 

My struggle with software was mainly getting the DVI to VGA to work properly when launching the base emulator.

 

That being said, I've never installed rocket launcher before so I'm hoping I can get a decent wheel going to have all the racing games to work properly.

 

I'm hoping the L2M2 pcb works well with the model 3 emulator and it'll be a bonus if I can get outrun and possibly even initial d - highly doubt it as I never had any success with demul on this particular video card.

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I'm using Attractmode on my driving cabs, works fine, nice and flexible. Admittedly i do have a shitload of scripts running to handle teknoparrot, but i doubt rocketlauncher has the options you'd need for that anyway. Model 2 is straightforward, though.
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I initially thought Attractmode as I am more familiar with it... but after seeing retrorepairs hyperspin wheel, I am tempted with a hyperspin wheel and rocket launcher.

 

It'll be quite some time before I worry about the front end stuff.

 

I first need to get to a point I have wheel, pedals and shifter operational

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Ok, I'm back to my original issue with the m2 emulator. I can officially say, the root cause has been found!

 

I was tipped off on the byoac forums stating a user had the same issue with dvi to vga and the m2 emulator crashing because a speaker was not plugged in.

 

I tried again tonight with speakers plugged in and what do you know... Everything works fine with the dvi to vga adaptor!

 

I'll probably keep the i3 build just to give me some leg room in power... It'd be good if I can also get model 3 and maybe even outrun or some initial d games..

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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Got a sneaky hour and a bit to try and identify the wires that I require..

 

b719ecf2a616693a94f855411b3f5b66.jpg

 

The wiring will look like this. I pretty sure this is all I will require..

 

ddcbad5645875ae72f6f6e8d912f4055.jpg

 

Hopefully all goes well and in the next few days, I have a steering wheel that works!

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Finally wired up the L2M2 to power and jumped the pins in U7 (1 and 3, 5 and 7)

 

What a PITA to get RV1 and RV5 to 20V and RV2 and RV3 to 12.5V!

 

I get 19.99 or 20.03 and then when I take a reading another time it goes to 19.95 same thing with RV2 and RV3!

 

The good thing is, the L2M2 appears to be working based on the LEDs being powered :)

 

1952733df32e95debf47b9ef7df0be3d.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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Finally got a solid 20v and 12.5v on the respective sections!

 

38d25b97846e59a1c82f8bfecf23b126.jpg

 

b194f03416adbab9aa655b5916ce59be.jpg

 

The L2M2 is now configured!

 

I've got my steering pots, I've got my clutch points and all the respective points on the L2M2. Let's hope I can connect up at some point tonight or tomorrow!

 

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Getting very close to wiring this baby up!

 

aa65007521b28fc5e774fa4d9924c5e6.jpg

 

Made a 6 pin connector to wire up the two clutch wires from the L2M2 board and the 3 wires for the steering pot.

 

24v is wired to each other and the logitech input signals are wired up.

 

I just need to wire up the 100v from the ffb motor to the step down and the two other wires from the ffb into the cw and ccw of the L2M2 and the neutral into the gnd of the step down!

 

If all goes well, I should be able to see the wheel device manager and the pots should turn!

 

I need to find how to enable FFB in the m2 emulator...

 

I'm hoping by the end of tonight I have something!

 

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Making sure I have my rubber shoes on :D

 

I seriously need to clean the work area for safety!

 

Nothing like an exposed crt :)

 

bd5a4c4cdb98ff87f65592ba81f2788e.jpg

 

Wires! Wires! Wires everywhere!

 

97a2dec4e06f345373b5b00b77b81da8.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

OK so the first take of it all wired up has happened and I'm calling it a night!

 

Here are the results:

 

- Wheel is detected in Device Properties

- FFB motor engages when steered all the way to the right, but not to the left

- No FFB is detected in M2 Emulator like the original game, only when I steer all the way to the right

- Wheel has a "jitter" in device properties

- Wheel is showing a button pressed, I'm not sure if I have to plug in the main controller pcb from the wheel for the button not to be in a "pressed" status.

 

Here are some vids to show some of the things I've observed

 

The FFB engaging and the jitter

 

 

First run - wheel appears to steer as expected, but the FFB isn't working as expected.

 

 

Now where to begin with the trouble shooting:

 

- Confirm continuity on the clutch

- Swap the clutch wires around (would this matter?)

- Find out if there's a setting that has to be "enabled" on .ini file for the M2 emulator

- Not sure about that jitter on the wheel properties

- Check if plugging in the pad pcb of the wheel will make a difference to the continually pressed button

- Any other suggestions?

 

It's never easy! :D :D

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Good to see your making progress.

 

Check to see if enableFF=1 is set in the emulator ini. Also I had to change my settings as per the first post here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=134688.0

What version of the profiler software are you using? It seems different to the one I have used. Did you calibrate the wheel as per the French instructions?

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Yeah I just tried it again...

 

I did enableff=1 in the .ini file but still nothing.

 

The profiler is just then basic Windows version, it's not a logitech version or anything.

 

I've also just swapped around the clutch wires and L2M2's and I get exactly the same result ie. FFB only engages when it's all the way to the right.

 

I can't get any centring at all..

 

I wonder if there's something I've missed on the L2M2..

 

I'll go back to the instructions of the French guide, I'm sure I've read that so many times over but I haven't done anything with the wheel, just plugged into windows and away she went..

 

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Another day, another attempt!

 

Installed the Logitech Gaming Software and went through the calibration of the wheel.

 

I'm pretty sure the software driver made both CW and CCW work on each side

 

Now to work out how to get the feedback working as it's supposed to in game and I need to figure out where that squeak is coming from when I turn left.

 

 

I've enabled the force feedback to work in the emulator.ini file, but I'm still not getting the feedback I'm expecting in game, only when I engage to the left or right where the wheel stops.

 

This looks like it's a software issue more than anything.

 

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Try adjusting the RV4 Steer power down a bit to see if that is making the belt squeak? You can do this while everything is powered up and connected.

Did you try what a mentioned in post #64 as I had to do this to get greater FFB effects in the games.

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Try adjusting the RV4 Steer power down a bit to see if that is making the belt squeak? You can do this while everything is powered up and connected.

Did you try what a mentioned in post #64 as I had to do this to get greater FFB effects in the games.

 

I'll try the rv4 adjustment tomorrow...

 

As for the the ffb... It's more the emulator isn't registering the ffb properly. Only when I go extreme left or right..

 

I know in the advanced course of daytona, I need to countersteer as I go up the first checkpoint just before the tunnel.. This isn't happening. And when I go on the grass it doesn't do anything.. It's probably a setting for be missed.

 

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How is the force feedback supposed to work, should the feedback be a response to what the car is actually doing or is it an analogue response that increases the more you turn the wheel? like you say and can see it only cuts in on full lock, it's almost acting digitally on/off as if you were using a joypad
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I had the same issue in Daytona. Driving on the grass did not shake the wheel but like I said in post 64 with the link to the 1st post on Arcade controls once I edited the ini to those settings and also changed the over all strength to 150% it was all good.
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I had the same issue in Daytona. Driving on the grass did not shake the wheel but like I said in post 64 with the link to the 1st post on Arcade controls once I edited the ini to those settings and also changed the over all strength to 150% it was all good.
Ok, I'll suss those settings out tomorrow and report back :)

 

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Try adjusting the RV4 Steer power down a bit to see if that is making the belt squeak? You can do this while everything is powered up and connected.

Did you try what a mentioned in post #64 as I had to do this to get greater FFB effects in the games.

 

Ok. So I'm reporting back!

 

Changes to the RV4 didn't take the squeak out, I have a feeling I'm going to have to adjust the belt.

 

Made the changes listed in the byoac thread and also increased the ffb in profiler to 150 and it's so much better!

 

Here it is in the profiler..

 

 

And here it is in game (of course it's daytona :D)

 

 

I think I'm pretty close to completing the wheel mod, just have to get the pedals working so I can actually sit down on the thing!

 

Ryan/Andy... Is this the same type of behaviour you guys see in your one? Does the wheel supposed to stay engaged when turned to absolute right or left? Or should it re centre?

 

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It must be a configuration on the m2 emulator since it behaves perfectly fine and re centres in the profiler.

 

I thought I'd take a video from the back to see what the L2M2 is doing. The LEDs all appear to match up.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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