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Williams A-Go-Go 1966

 

I must have been lucky my first attempt to paint a cab come up better than I expected, but I really slowed thing down and did everything methodically it actually took me a couple of hours to tape up everything I pressed hard on the tape edges to get the best seal as I could and like others have said dip your finger in some of the paint colour that is the colour under the tape and run your finger over the tape lines where you are going to paint, let it dry this helps seal things up and I think very importantly make sure you don’t have to much paint on the roller less chance of bleeding do more coats if you have to but don’t overload the roller.

Good luck

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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think the cab should take the longest out of all the resto.

 

i always set 4 weeks to do it. only reason is if you rush (and not putting shit on you brad) the results show.

 

can understand your disappointed - as stated above i f*cked my gottlieb egg head not once but twice.

 

why? as both times it was a rushed job trying to get it done.

 

all up an em rebuild like this should take a min of 6 months.

 

dont get put off, think kev's suggestion of just doing the head by itself is a great idea.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Well after a flurry of posts on this restore it was back to reality with work =( I can only really work on this on weekends or days off and my glorious 3 weeks leave was over this week so not a lot done. I spent last weekend talking myself into realising I just have to sand back the cab and start all over again. I'm reasonably comfortable with that now though still disappointed. As others have said put it down to a lesson =/

I have been doing a little work. Namely taking cab parts out of the evaporust and then cleaning and painting. all coin door parts have now received primer and either hammertone or zinc where appropriate. I've also done the backbox metal pieces and the playfield glass holders at the back. I have a few chrome pieces that have rust through to the metal namely siderails and 2 pieces of playfield glass holders. @Railways is going to sort me out with siderails when he can and considering what to do with the other few pieces.

Since I was back at work I thought I'd revisit my backglass artwork restore. I'd done a LOT of work on it during my first week then left it as I wanted to test print to see if I needed to do more or if my re-work was shit. So I printed out a full size version on our banner printer at work and then put it side by side to the original glass. You can see this below.

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Now in this photo it looks washed out but that's because of the really bright morning sun. The colours are MUCH brighter and distinct in person and I'm very pleased with the result. I do need to tweak colour shading as I think they're slightly off BUT as in the tutorial I posted I can mass-select each colour and tweak at will with no issue.

It's hard to see in this reduced size image but a lot of the black lines are a little jaggy, not from pixelation but from the line anchors being a little off in some areas. I was considering cleaning them up but as the marketing guys said to which I agreed, it kinda suits the theme and age/style of the cab so I may leave it. I still need to create the numbers along the top and I also noticed the number 4 at the bottom is still not great. I had to re-create most of the text in the bottom left but I cheated and used copies from the "Play Flipper" section at the bottom by copying, resizing and changing the colour.

I'm also going to hunt around for the Williams Logo and Text on the top left as whilst its not bad I'd like a crisper result.

All up I'm happy with the work with some tweaks to go and I think the final result will be pretty good.

Cheers,

Brad

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I think it looks outstanding myself @Brad .

 

One thing I would try is putting a lit lightbulb behind the Game over, SPSA, and ball in play numbers just to make sure the transparency allows for the light to pass though correctly so you can easierly see them when they are lit on the machine.

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Autosteve said:
I think it looks outstanding myself @Brad .

 

One thing I would try is putting a lit lightbulb behind the Game over, SPSA, and ball in play numbers just to make sure the transparency allows for the light to pass though correctly so you can easierly see them when they are lit on the machine.

This is a just a test print on some high gloss paper. The real print will be onto some acrylic or glass. Those light up areas will need to be either close to transparent or lightly printed, maybe a gradient of some type. But you're right, this is a small concern of mine. Just something I can't test with the test medium I've used. I'll need to discuss/tweak with the professional printer 😃

Cheers,

Brad

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This is a just a test print on some high gloss paper. The real print will be onto some acrylic or glass. Those light up areas will need to be either close to transparent or lightly printed, maybe a gradient of some type. But you're right, this is a small concern of mine. Just something I can't test with the test medium I've used. I'll need to discuss/tweak with the professional printer =)

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

 

That part of the glass is defiantly painted differently on a normal back glass that is why I mentioned it.

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Autosteve said:
That part of the glass is defiantly painted differently on a normal back glass that is why I mentioned it.

For sure. It seems like a thinner coat of the same surrounding colour so the light shines through.

Edi: Actually on closer inspection, the rest of the glass has been backed with another colour or medium blocking it out. The light up areas don't have this so thats how it works.

Brad

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No honestly the sides are as bad as the front, the photo makes it look nice =(

Yeah the base is Antique White. I never saw any reference images that showed a splatter effect! What colours were used.....omg I may HAVE to sand it back now

Brad

 

Tapatalk on my phone kept refusing to upload a photo....... and I kept forgetting to plug phone into my computer to get the image..... so sorry for the delay.

Here's the splatter on A-Go-Go (mixed in with some marks from old age :P )

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Quick questions. Do you guys paint the inside of your cabs? I wasn't going to but now not sure and if I'm going to do it I should before I put it back together. About to sand the new coat of primer and lay down Antique White again.

For the oil/stain blocking I've applied this product as recommended by a builder mate. We'll see how it holds up soon :blink:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/zinsser-b-i-n-3-78l-primer-sealer-stain-killer_p1565677

Cheers,

Brad

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millsy56 said:
Good thing to do especially above the playfield line of eye.

I've already done above the playfield but stopped short of the rest.

Gemini2544 said:
Some do Brad, some paint it black & some choose the most dominate colour. Just keep in mind that the manufacture didn't do it so if you going for authenticity then I wouldn't.

Yeah this is where I'm a little torn. I like the neatness of it but I also want to retain as much of the original charm as possible if that's even really relevant. One of the things I like is the outside bottom of the cab has the Serial Number written on it. Not sure I want to paint over it or not. I know it seems silly but I can't help myself lol

Brad

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Apparently Pinball Rescue no longer sell Williams and Bally Trademarked parts and haven't done for at least 6 months. I was after the coin door decals:

http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

I've searched high and low and cannot find a provider except for one who won't ship outside the U.S. Does anyone know of someone who might sell them? I get protecting your trademark but if you're not selling them I find it a bit shit. I know an old and long argument but I've personally never had the issue before =/

Brad

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Only a small update this time although plenty of work. Sanded back the cab to almost base. 3 coats of undercoat. I let it bake for a week then sanded with a finisher. Applied 2 coats of antique white today. Will let that bake for a week and then finish it and prep for dark blue next weekend.

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Backbox is hiding behind the cab but it got the treatment too. I checked the area where paint was not adhereing and so far it looks pretty good. Only taping and removing will prove the point though.

Brad

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I hope when you spray the colours that after all that work it doesn't run of bleed under the tape on it.

 

You mean like last time? I'll be doing the backbox first and using the methods recommended here. Should be fine now that I know. My chief concern is ensuring the paint doesn't come off when I'm taking the tape off.

 

Brad

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Quick question. I'm looking at marking out the pattern for taping today but before I do, should I lightly sand the Antique White first or leave it? The undercoat was sanded nice and smooth before Antique White was applied.

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

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Williams A-Go-Go 1966

 

You just bet me to it I was about to say the same thing.

 

I’m going to be honest when I did my cabinet I didn’t do any sanding between coats and I did multiple coats and had no bleeding through the tape when I did the stenciling.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Put a final dark blue coat on this morning before just peeling the tape off just now. Have to say I'm very happy with the result. A couple of spots will require a small touch up where my taping wasn't 100% but all up I think it looks fantastic.

Just want to thank you all for your tips, help and encouragement 🙂

FYI, the area where the paint is not adhering is still a problem. I was Very careful peeling that up and whilst lifting the tape was using my other hand to hold the paint layer down. The only way this will be truly fixed is to replace the timber or lay a veneer over it and paint that.

Going to let this bake for a week before I tape it up to do the light blue. Then I need to do 2 areas of black before some light touch ups!

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Cheers

Brad

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