Williams A-Go-Go 1966

head will be 3/8 bolts from bunnings, buy long enough to make it...

 

feet here - http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/08-7377.html

 

nuts for the feet 3/8 at bunnings or here - http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/4422-01117-00.html

 

while you're just working on it you can put 3/8 bolts in where the feet would go too if you want

3/8" UNC (American)

not

3/8" Whitworth (English)

They are slightly different threads......(turns per inch and pitch of thread)

Bunnings have both.

Take an old leg bolt with you as a sample for the thread, not the length .(long enough to go through the wood at the bottom of the head with a 3/8 washer and fully into the wood with the thread in the of the neck)

If the neck bolt threaded inserts are damaged, they are called "tee nuts" and they are in the table legs section of Bunnings in packs of four for a table with four legs or a pinball neck but again beware, they are in UNC and Whitworth thread sizes.

dont overthink it steve .. its the ones in the HUGE common bolts bay, not the single packet by itself hiding in the special stuff

Sorry @wiredoug

A life of dealing with idiots has taught me to be very precise so F ups don't happen and things go according to plan.

Many people have no idea 3/8" comes in many threads and all are different, most are completely incompatible with each other or at best damage the thread forcing it to fit and Whitworth is by far the most popular used in Australia, not UNC or UNF unless it is an Auto shop where you will only find UNC and UNF as a hold over from when Aussie cars were US sizes before metric.

For those that are possibly interested these are the Imperial threads I am aware of and I'm sure there are more...

BSW....British Standard Whitworth

BSWP...British Standard Whitworth Pipe

UNC....Unified Course

UNF....Unified Fine

Again, just for those that may actually be interested, usually those that are always fixing many pieces of machinery like myself, this is just the differences in the thread itself and not how many threads per inch or the pitch of the thread that also changes...

So next time you have a bolt that just doesn't seem right or goes a bit and then gets tight or jams, hopefully you will remember back to this post and think, maybe I have the wrong bolt thread even though I have the right thread size.;)

Sorry @wiredoug and @Brad

A bit off track but forums are for helping and teaching aren't they?. Maybe someone will learn from this and help them later on.

Maybe someone will learn from this and help them later on.

of course they will its awesome. I love it when you get carried away lol .....

a lifetime of idiots .. sigh .. the struggle is real aint it

Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought primer was porous and will rust through if a top coat is not applied? Might be something to think about on the back of your coin door?

Maybe just put a coat of clear over it.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers Trev

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought primer was porous and will rust through if a top coat is not applied? Might be something to think about on the back of your coin door?

Maybe just put a coat of clear over it.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You are correct @BIG Trev

It is porous. One reason you never buy a 2nd hand car done in primer only. You don't know how many times it was in the rain and also primer covers the non flat panels.

The metal doesn't need to get wet either. Moisture in the air will cause rust anyway.

To be absolutely correct paint is porous as well and that is why car paint should have wax applied over the paint to seal it but this is far less necessary these days. Cars are basically throw aways these days not expected to live long lives.

If you like your inside front door finish Brad as it is and and concerned about rust maybe a light wax coat?.

Damm.

I must admit I was a bit concerned about using paint stripper on wood.

Might have to clad the wood in 3mm ply. I don't like your chances getting that paint stripper out of the wood to tell you the truth.

You could try sanding or peeling it back and use shit loads of metho and cloth to leach it out of the wood.

I had success doing the metho trick on wood that kept leaching out the tannins. As the tannins and paint stripper are both oil based to a degree, the metho may pull the stripper out of the wood.

I found this....

Re: Removing stripper residue?

Postby asiedydd » Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:59 pm

The topic/question should read "Removing PAINTstripper residue?"

I've cleaned water based stripper with TSP solution. Oil based with mineral spirits or naptha. Parks/Zinsser makes "Stripper Wash", which I think is probably a mix of ethanol, methanol and acetate. I endorse the suggestion for using steel wool before sandpaper.

It is part of this here....

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19240

okay..sorry mate maybe i should of thought ahead and posted. haven't been on much as im spending 12+ hours a day painting the house and getting ready for the meet.

with the bleeding. sad to say you are going have to sand back to primer again.

to get around this the next time the tape goes down press it firmly all away around the edge.

once that is done, take the base white paint and apply a thin layer of paint on the edge of the tape (to seal the gap).

let it dry a few hours.

sorry skimmed over above (cooking dinner) but once the colours go down leave for at least 24 hours until you take the tape up.

feel your pain mate, put it down to a learning experience

just to add, yeah i have had this happen before and it totally leaves you rejected. mate, i f*cked a cab TWICE and started again.

maybe move onto something else for now?

start to go through the score reel assemblies - it will make the painting headaches go away ;)

okay..sorry mate maybe i should of thought ahead and posted. haven't been on much as im spending 12+ hours a day painting the house and getting ready for the meet.

 

with the bleeding. sad to say you are going have to sand back to primer again.

 

to get around this the next time the tape goes down press it firmly all away around the edge.

 

once that is done, take the base white paint and apply a thin layer of paint on the edge of the tape (to seal the gap).

 

let it dry a few hours.

 

sorry skimmed over above (cooking dinner) but once the colours go down leave for at least 24 hours until you take the tape up.

 

feel your pain mate, put it down to a learning experience

I'll hold you totally responsible if @Brad turns out a absolutely immaculate A Go Go with a bare wooden cabinet.:lol

Bummer about the bleeding and priming Brad. I too have had to do a cab twice but since I've started using 2 coats of Zinsser 1-2-3 as an undercoat I've never had a problem. Available at Bunnings. Link from rustoleum below.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/primer-sealers/bulls-eye-1-2-3-water-base-primer

Re; The bleeding. You will get bleeding if the primer hasn't been block ed back to as close as possible to dead flat. I.e the undercoat or any top colour when applied with a fairly coarse roller will leave lots of little hills and dales which the tape won't fill as the tape just sticks to the high points and lets paint run underneath.

I use a fine sponge roller - not mohair/fuzz.

How did the backbox come up - any bleed ?

Dont be too disenchanted -happens to all of us, critical the tape is stuck well on your lines. Did you roller along the tape line,I usually use a small brush to make sure the line is nicely sealed

After paint stripping I usually clean with either prepsol or wax remover. And dont forget the weather (High humidity) will take longer to dry. I usually do 3 coats of sealer/undercoat and finally peel the tape of VERY SLOWLY.

Don't be too upset, most EM's originally had quite a lot of paint bleed from spraying the stencils at factory... Personally I think the sides look brilliant, the front though I'd prefer to repaint if it were me (and of course redo the backbox).

One thing, in the pics it looks like your white is solid white? The game should have a splatter effect, lots of tiny dots over the white. This is usually done before the other colours are added.

No honestly the sides are as bad as the front, the photo makes it look nice =(

Yeah the base is Antique White. I never saw any reference images that showed a splatter effect! What colours were used.....omg I may HAVE to sand it back now

Brad

From a photo from a distance you probably wouldn't notice the splatter, so highly unlikely any of the online photos showed it up close.

Its one of those things that you don't really realise is there, until its not there...

Looks to be a medium grey (if I were programming I'd call it similar to hex colour value of #999999 or up to #BBBBBB .... but that might not be too much use to you.... ) ...... I'll see if I can get the time to get a decent photo tomorrow...

LOL you clowns! I really AM tempted for that sweet smooth timber look now :lol

 

I used Taubmans 3-1 Primer with Stain Blocking. Did 2 coats and sanded after both.

 

http://www.taubmans.com.au/paints/taubmans-3-in-1

 

For the colours I used the paints linked by Millsy

 

 

All Dulux Aqua Enamel.

 

Also use a foam roller per recommendations. I think its really just down to shitty technique. I should have read more instead of diving right in. Still considering options. Going to try your method illawarra_steelers but on the existing by taking the blue out a little more to cover the bleed. Will test a small section and see how I go. Worst case scenario it doesn't work and I break out the sander again :cry

 

You're right though, pretty dejected at the moment and want to move to something else. I'll sleep on it ;)

 

Just got your post millsy. Backbox exactly the same mate.

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

Redo the Backbox first and see how it comes up. Less pain if your not happy with it.

I too feel your pain re paint bleed, Brad.

I haven't had a problem since painting over the edge of the tape in either the base colour or undercoat .

I have never bothered with doing the splatter effect on any cabs I have repainted . Easier that way and I don't care about it anyway :)

Keep up the great work.