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Muzac

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Everything posted by Muzac

  1. Excellent info thanks again @Autosteve. 👊 Ok, as suggested above I have switched the wires to the solder side of the pin connector (🤦‍♂️) and I’ve re-checked the locations according to the diagram. (Just a note that solder joins look a bit messy as I didn’t bother removing the solder from the parts side pins). The diode should have it’s polarity correct as per the diagram with the banded side/cathode soldered to 16s and the non-banded/anode soldered to 17s. I’ve set all the DIP switches as suggested, in regards to the four bank on the C120: should switches 3 and 4 also be off? So here’s the sticking point dammit, the LED (which I noticed hasn’t been illuminated at all!) isn’t working. So there’s no power😩 I’m assuming the 12volt feed powers it and as per the diagram I’ve spliced from power supply PCB connector (3P6 pin 6 - Grey/white wire)) and connected to pins 19 and 20. I’ve attached a pic of my wiring (excuse my ‘fat finger’ script!) what the hell am I doing wrong??
  2. Yes, it’s a bit counter intuitive! They are inhibitor switches that inhibit coins when they are on, so in theory they should be off to allow coins to register. In saying that I’m still not sure what the second lot of four are for though. They aren’t mentioned in the manual. The whole thing is still not registering though, so I might try flicking some of them anyway….
  3. Back to it! Excuse the delay, school holidays are sucking up all my time! Thanks for looking into it @Autosteve and posting the link to the C120 manual, I had it in PDF form and was trying to figure out how to attach it! Ok, so I tested the 12volt feed as you suggested putting the red lead on the circled red solder joint (diode D1) and the black lead on circled black solder joint (capacitor C1) and got a reading of 11.85volts. (Pic 1) Is that close enough or troublesome because it’s a bit low? Also after browsing the C120 manual again, I thought I maybe the inhibitor DIP switches were set to ‘inhibit’ all coins. Opening the coin mech cover however revealed that they appear to be properly set to allow all coin types (red circle pic 2). Do you know what the other four DIP switches are for? (blue circle pic 2) Doesn’t seem to reference them in the manual…. Cheers! Z
  4. Thanks my good man, good advice with the needle too. I’m ‘ok’ at reading diagrams so I’ve posted it below. 😬 From what you said does that mean diode D1 (red circle) is the solder joint where I put the red test lead? As far as the black lead for ground, is it C1 (green circle) or the other component with the blue circle? Apologies I am not sure what either of them are….
  5. Hi again, Ok, so it sounds like I have the wiring correct then? I received it from Highway Entertainment in early Nov and it was supposed to be ‘pinball programmed’ when I bought it. how do I test that it’s receiving 12volt?
  6. Hi good people, Ok, finally put all the bits together but the coin mech isn’t working at all! 😩 Basically you put a coin in and it rejects it, tried $2, $1 and 20c. I ‘think’ I’ve done everything correctly: PIC 1: I spliced wires to pick up 12volt (3J6 pin 3) ground (3J6 pin 11) from the power supply in the backbox PIC 2: Soldered all the wires to the pin connector in what I think is the correct way. For reference: White wire - spliced from 12volt Black wire - spliced from ground Blue wire - spliced from white/blue near Molex coin door connector Green wire - spliced from green/brown near Molex coin door connector (Apologies for the shabby electrical tape over the joins @Autosteve. It looks crap and bothers me but I don’t have large heat shrink to fit over the three way join. I managed to do it near the coin door but my 12volt and ground wires are quite thick.) PIC 3: In regards to the pin connector, there are two sets of pins for the 22 positions (so essentially 44). I soldered the wires onto what I thought was the component side, do they need to be attached to both? Also, the instructions tell you to set the pinball pricing to 1 coin 1 game. In the Cyclone adjustments I used the ‘custom coin’ setting to achieve this. I am still unsure how to set the credit board though. From what I can gather dip switches 1-3 are set to 20c, $1 & $2 respectively. So do I simply have them all on? I tried a number of combinations but nothing worked. This might be a dumb question also but I’m I’m assuming the coin mech gets power from the credit board through the ribbon cable? It appears to be without power….. Any further help would be very much appreciated! Z 🙏
  7. Hi AA peeps, I’ve been meaning to do this for a while and hell, Xmas time is the perfect time to finally get around to it! After restoring a mighty Cosmic Princess a while back (and doing a tonne of research) I discovered that due to the paint used by SE back in the day (and the heat of incandescent bulbs 🔥 ) most of the surviving CP back glasses are a flaking mess! Mine was pretty bad (my wife referred to her as ‘The Scaley Princess’ Lol!) so I spent HOURS and hours digitally restoring a photographed image of the backglass on Photoshop. I am aware that nothing can replace a sweet mirrored backglass but if anyone would like a copy of the file to print out their own translite just send me your email address and I’ll wing it through. I actually ended up selling my ‘lizard lady’ machine before printing out a full colour print but I experimented with a collage of black and white A4’s and it ‘seemed’ to be sized correctly. It might be prudent to print out a black and white version before spending the money on a full colour print to make sure the display windows line up. Anyhoo, happy festivus AA legends, here’s to another great year of pinball action! Cheers, Zac
  8. This is what I love about the amazing AA community, straight up, informative and direct information. I really needed this to progress forward and not destroy my beloved machine. Can’t thank you enough @Autosteve your assistance is really appreciated and your service to the AA community at large is to be commended. You.tha.man.🙌 I had a really difficult time finding this info anywhere so I’ll post some final results/pics when I get this all sorted. Hopefully it’ll help more operators to get classic games out in the wild! 😀
  9. Hey again, Finally back on this (crazy time of year right!). Primarily, yes @Autosteve Nigel from Sunrise Micro did work at Goddards. He apparently started there in 1978. 🙂 Thanks again mate, I’ve received Universal Credit Board Mk4e and a 44 pin edge connector from Sunrise. Ok, the diagram below shows me what I’m supposed to do, so if I understand this correctly… - The ribbon cable runs from the coin mech to the credit board (with 44 pin edge connector attached) - The white/blue cable is attached to pin 17 & the green/brown cable to pin 18 on the pin edge connector. - A diode is soldered between pins 16 and 17 - 12volt power is obtained from the power supply PCB connector (3P6 pin 6 - Grey/white wire)) and connected to pins 19 and 20 - Ground is also obtained from the power supply PCB connector (3P6 - black wire) and connected to pins 1, 21 and 22. (?) - I don’t think I need a coin meter and I’ll possibly attach the service credit switch When it comes to tapping into the feed of the green/ brown cable etc how exactly do I do this? The loom is housed in a Molex plug so where on the cable do I tap into the feed? Same for the 12V feed, I understand where it comes from but not the best way to attach to the power supply PCB connector? Any help would be great! Cheers.
  10. You are a legend @Autosteve really appreciate the tip. I’ve contacted them and will update this thread when I get a response. Cheers!
  11. Hi again peeps, I’m having quite a difficult time finding a credit board, they aren’t readily available (even from Marco!). I found this though, it apparently works with my C120 coin mech but can anyone advise if it will be compatible with the Williams System 11B board set? https://www.arcade-game-sales.com/arcade-parts/credit-boards-coin-interface-pcbs/arcade-credit-board-universal-mk4e/16570-2.html Cheers!
  12. Thanks @ocyenmy good man! I had a feeling there was a missing piece to the puzzle. I’ll follow that logic and see if I can find one. Cheers!
  13. Hi again, I’m continuing my coin mech journey and now that I’ve found one I’m unsure what to do next! I’ve installed analog ones before but this electronic mech has got me stumped. Basically I’ve bought a C120 coin mech and after a bit of re-modelling have managed to successfully fit it into the coin door of my Williams Cyclone. It is “pinball programmed” for $2, $1 and 20c. I was given a ribbon cable with it but I really have no idea how to wire it up to power it and recognise the different denominations etc. I’m wondering if I need a credit board or the like? Any help would be great. Cheers!
  14. Hi again everyone, More questions! 😬I need a coin mech for my Williams Cyclone and I was hoping someone could recommend one? I really need one that accepts $2 coins but ideally $2 & $1. I have a $1 mech in my Sinbad currently and it’s always getting jammed up with $2 coins and 20c pieces! It would be awesome if there was one that accepted a number of denominations as well as $2 & $1 coins. From my research it appears as though the C220 may be an option but I am unsure how easy it is to install and if it needs a credit board? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
  15. Hi everyone, Got a minor head scratcher here. I’ve bought a new left (jackpot) ramp for my Whirlwind and it included two decals. One of them is obvious but I can’t for the life of me figure out where the other one goes! Primarily my old ramp doesn’t have this decal and I can’t see any images of it online. I thought it may have been accidentally included but there is an image of it on another pinball website. It also says “includes decal” and it’s not the obvious grey lightning bolt! Any ideas good people?
  16. SOLVED! Thanks a bunch AA legends, the display is now working perfectly. 😀 It was indeed one of the 6118 IC’s (thanks again @Limorange). I replaced both and I also replaced the electrolytic cap while I was in the neighbourhood. Really appreciate all the suggestions and help. Cheers! Zac
  17. Thanks a bunch for your replies gents. 👊 Ok thanks, is there any way of testing them prior with a DMM? Interesting mate, I’ll look into that, it would be a big win! Absolutely, see attached. Would it be a good idea to reflow all the contact points perhaps? As an aside also, does anyone have any recommendations about sticking the glass displays back onto the boards? All of them have come unstuck and I was a bit concerned about using glue in case they get hot when used for long periods…
  18. Ok finally got back to it. I took the status display out of my Sinbad at work and tested it in the Pinball Pool. It works fine, the segment is there so it looks like the problem is the display itself! I had a look over it and I couldn’t see any obvious breaks or burn marks etc. The only thing I did notice was that the boards had different configurations of components between them. I would imagine this is simply because imagine they are different models of the same board? See pic below, Sinbad display is the one on the black material. Any assistance would be great. 😀
  19. I do, I have a Sinbad at my bar in Adelaide. I’ll give that a go. Thanks! Yes indeed.
  20. Hi mate. No I haven’t done that but I’ll give it a shot. Cheers. Thanks mate, I’ll follow those steps. It’s just odd it works but then doesn’t work🤔 I actually noticed last night that when I first turned it on that the segment was faintly there during attract mode and then it flickered out. Sounds like a join issue I guess?
  21. Apologies for the delayed response, thanks heaps @wiredoug!
  22. Hi everyone, Hope you’re all staying safe and sane and playing lots of pinball. I have a real head scratcher regarding the status displays on my recently revived Gottelib Pinball Pool. I have successfully brought back missing display segments by re-pinning connectors etc but a segment on the status display is playing up. Primarily, I have replaced all the boards with an all in one Pascal P1 - 1 x 4 board, re-pinned all the connectors attached to this board and also re-pinned the status display connector. Segment “c” is the issue. When the machine boots up the segment is working: In and In attract mode the segment is missing in the left window: During gameplay the segment is also missing in the left window: I am assuming that there is a different signal path for the boot up sequence as opposed to the attract mode/gameplay mode? This is the FINAL wrinkle to iron out on neglected piece of art and if anyone can shed any light on this it would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Zac.
  23. Hi good people, I’ve just picked up a project Pinball Pool (very stoked!) and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a manual? Cheers!
  24. @Rich Thanks a bunch for your assistance my good man but I solved it last night! Just reading your response above, you nailed it, it was a resistor (R13) on the alphanumeric display board. Next time I’ll test ALL the parts in the chain before I replace anything. Really appreciate the help mate and the confirmation on the schematic read. You.da.man. 😀
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