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mrjamma

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Everything posted by mrjamma

  1. Yeah not a bad deal thats for sure Being said, why not grab an MK4 credit board, and set the dip switches to 4 player mode. Works in the identical way. Sunrise still sell them (and the edge connector) brand new, or even put up a wanted post.
  2. oh wow , i didnt even know how to rebuild MCAs or even adjust levers in 2014 😮 hahaha. i stocked up a couple of those bushes from Coin Play before they stopped supplying, but good to see there are options around to futureproof everyone , good work !
  3. Wow this is amazing work and dedication!!
  4. Ah, this is the cab you were telling me about Geoff. Man, depends if you REALLY love that particular cab. If you do, give it some love and elbow grease. There are a few plastic weld kits around, filler, spraypaint etc - or if not, might be worth a quote from a body shop for just the worst (cracked) bits. I wouldnt worry about the rear, no one sees it anyway. But ultimately, if youre not attached to that particular cab, or if youre never gonna be happy due to the originality side (Original Toshiba/nanao would be costly if you couldnt live with the current setup), no matter how aesthetically nice it is on the outside, might be worth to cut your losses, sell and go on the hunt again :)
  5. I had graphic glitches before, and with game powered on put some pressure on the chip on the C board and come good (temporarily of course). Was the pins from chip to the pcb. but didnt look anything like what youre seeing to be fair
  6. My 15 pins essentially couldnt come out completely on their own. i can disconnect them from the 9 pins at the control panel, but considering the service buttons for 3/4 share the 3 pin plug with player 2 service (which goes to jamma edge) and coin wires share the big block plug with various other stuff, itd be stuck in there. my only way out would be another 4 pin block just for coin/service wires to disconnect them out but cbf now. If i was in the process again of restoring now, id add one Not sure if one was there originally maybe? but wasnt present on mine or my friends machine i sorted - doesnt mean they never had one though as most cabs get chopped up with game conversions *shrug* the third machine i fixed for someone, i have very little recollection with as harness was still in the cab Can i see pics of yours including the 4 pin you mentioned. maybe my above guess is wrong and mine/mates cabs were missing it, as id imagine that harness is supposed to be removable on its own. Hoping it wont ever have to come out again anyway :D . Thanks Hopefully someone might have more insight
  7. Coin 3 - Top side pin 14 of MK4 credit board Coin 4 - Top side pin 15 of MK4 credit board Service 3 - player 3 credit button inside door (and need a ground for other pin on button) Service 4 - player 4 credit button inside door (and need a ground for other pin on button) Definitely dont go to the 9 pin, or theyd need to route back down again to the coin door from the control panel Check Post 11 on page 1 (and then again post 14 for the MK4 version for the credit board) Shows a full photo diagram In terms of which block connectors do the 4 wires end up in - they split away separately from the other wires in the 15 pin harness, and into the block connectors near the coin door. The 3 pin molex has players 2,3,4 service switches, and the player 1 service switch and the 4 coin wires are somewhere in those other 2 blocks of jumbled mess. would need to unravel it to be more accurate but the ideas there. Side note: My educated guess as to why only 3 of the 4 service/credit buttons are in a 3 pin molex, instead of all 4 in a 4 pin - is probably because they just added it onto their existing design for cabinet harness (designed for previous cabs) later on to accomodate this cabs 4 player setup. Most games which arent konami/4 player, would only need 1 service switch which wouldve been already in the main molex, and they probably just added the other 3 later with a 3 pin molex. Seen at least 2x TMNT with the same 3 pin so id say likely done at factory like that Update: being said, you have a 4 pin. Would like to see pics, maybe mines missing it or never came with it.
  8. No worries, edited and updated in the above post
  9. Edit Ok, so attached is a pic of my player 3 plug under my control panel and where the wires are routing. This is the 9 pin plug which goes to the joystick and 2 buttons. Not saying its the definitive 'colour code', but its what was there But this is the pic and where they connect to on my joystick/buttons: My guess though, is that someone else will probably have different colours in another cab to that of the above, but i guess see if anyone else responds with what they have. In terms of that plug then connecting to a 9 Pin -> 15 pin to the game board side, well - that would be dependent on the colour scheme for your P3 / 4 harness you have in the machine that youre restoring. For me, the above plug marries up on the other side to these wires on the 15 pin harness: Left goes to Pin 3 Purple/blue Right goes to Pin 4 Blue Up goes to Pin 5 Green Down goes to Pin 6 Black/Yellow Jump goes to Pin 7 Brown Attack goes to Pin 8 Yellow Ground goes to Pin 15 Black Being said, if you check the forum for previous TMNT restores, youll likely see some wiring pics here and there, and colours seem to vary again on the 15 pin P3. So is there a definitive LAI-specific 3 player , 15 pin harness, that had no alternative colour schemes used , or did they just get batches of stuff and it changed at different points of cabinet manufacture. Zero idea. In any case, perhaps put up a few pics of what you have and what you are working with, and can go forward from there.
  10. Thank you, much appreciated Just adding a picture of them all together in the current games room.
  11. Wow, absolutely beautiful job. Put in way more work than I ever did on mine :D
  12. Ok I got ya. I mean its definitely cool to document for the sake of of documentation, i think it might be hard to get a 100% conclusion in terms of consistency. I guess youd need one which could be guaranteed to have never been touched since 89/90 for the best answer. I can say that ive definitely seen differences in colours in person for the 15 pin harness (15 pin P3 or P4 -> 9 pin block LAI), on the couple of TMNT harnesses ive sorted Some with a lot of blue , green , yellow only... other one rainbow. Then some pics of wiring nests during restores on this forum which are different combo again on the 15pin side. Once it goes from 9 pin -> spade connectors to the joystick/buttons side though, I cant remember if ive seen a variation in colouring on that side of it though, could be all the same from that point *shrug* On my cab, id have to unbolt the 4 bolts and take the panel back to check the 9 blocks as they're situated around there, and honestly its a bit of a hassle :D If I end up having to take it off again one day ill take some pics of what I have. Maybe @yngbld could take some pics - seems like hes in the middle of restoring one now, maybe he could show you what its currently looking like?
  13. @yngbld If you get stuck or need any help at all, feel free to pm Hi @Azure Im not really sure Ive understood the question, but hoping I can help? I assume you understand all the diagrams in terms of pin assignment for JAMMA, P3/P4 harnesses and the credit board - Is the query regarding wire colours specifically, or where each pin needs to go? Ive never really gone by wire colour in any wiring harness repairs (arcade or otherwise), because Ive seen different coloured wiring - namely with these 4p LAI, different coloured wiring on Konami Player 3 / Player 4 harnesses, so that aspect could change cab to cab .. On a couple of these cabs ive fixed up (wiring wise), ive gone over every wire to make sure its all in the right spot, using continuity on a meter, visually checking etc Considering your player 3 diagram above notes 9 pins (rather than referencing the 15 pin end), I assume you are referring to the other end of the cable where it goes into a molex connector, somewhere along the way before going up to the control panel, and that you were looking to do a diagram with wire colouring specifically? Im happy to look at my jamma end, 15pin end, and credit board ends to tell you what colour wires what in my cab? too lazy to pull of my control panel though (i.e. where it would change from 15pin -> into molex -> back out into the wires for each player Sorry if ive misunderstood the query. p.s. I made an MK4 version of the above credit board pictorial diagram and posted in another thread, its a bit dodgy, but attaching here so its all in one place
  14. I used to have a lot of fun with e-mail scammers, i clearly had too much time on my hands. The most recent one I played with was a few years back and was the ones where you had inherited a deceased estate. Their scam was that in order to receive the inheritance, id need a particular bank account setup, and to 'start up' that bank account, it required a deposit of $XXX in order to be an active account. Spend money to make money right :D They then give you an email address for this 'bank company' to contact to setup your account, which just so happened to be a yahoo address :D , and you are to go from there. So I played along, and the 'bank' required the deposit to be done via Western Union and they wanted a scan or photo of the receipt :D :D I got one of those Western Union forms when i was out one day, filled it all out with BS details, and even had some random stamps from the office I was working for at the time (PAID or whatever it was), help make it look really legit. I scanned my fake slip, sent it to them, and the idiots still came back saying they were having issues with some transfer number and couldnt get the payment :D :D Felt good knowing they were trying and had so much hope. so i told them to 'rest assured' and that id send another one to them - this time, sending them a lot of adult content photos instead, with the files named as 'receipts' good times.
  15. Wont fit. Youll notice the 'how to play' section moved in on aussie panels. When people use aussie panel with a US control panel overlay, they end up having to trim a fair bit of those play instructions off - so that top section would be wider on the US cab / their wooden panel would be wider there
  16. Could I see a pic of your PCB ? It probably is still genuine capcom hardware, though it may be running slower than intended if its on 10mhz. I think most 'hypers' were just rom upgrade packs from Capcom, to upgrade champion edition. Being said, all champion Editions ive seen were also on a 12MHz dash A board Ive chucked a couple of pictures from yahoo japan showing how they sell them - thats what ive always known to be the correct hardware for champ/hyper. Sometimes the C board will be in Japanese writing instead of english, and sometimes the components are orange, sometimes blue.
  17. 100% it is for that price !! id give ya $50 for the faulty PCB as spare parts if youre interested (and being truthful, you could get more than 50 on ebay for someone who knows how to correctly diagnose and repair). Ive been meaning to convert one of my 'rainbow edition' boards back to hyper anyhow, or would be good to just swap the 'B boards' in and out. Keep it in mind anyway @djsheep Just curious where you found that info. wiki, and system16 both are saying the cps1.5 (Q sound hardware / CPS Dash) use 10mhz , so have only gone from the info online
  18. haha yeah, well after doing some more searching, you are right in that CPS 1.5 is officially considered 'cps-dash' hardware But man it gets confusing... so having a look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CP_System - It would define CPS1 technically as just 'CP system' (or just CPS). It says "10 MHz (some later boards 12 MHz)". To confuse matters, the 12MHz A Boards in the CPS board stacks have a sticker 'CPS Dash'. These would be your 3 layer pcbs - It would define CPS 1.5 technically as 'CP System Dash' (or on some sites, even 'Capcom Q Sound Hardware') - basically the hardware between CPS and CPSII The A boards are different again compared to normal CPS, due to the audio "The boards are similar to that of CPS1 but the A board has been stripped of its audio section and this is now located on a new B board which has the Q-Sound chips and in this case" (pictures also show RCA connectors on them like CPSII) These are a total of 4 interlocking pcbs, if counting the front one. Effectively Capcom named their 12mhz A boards for CPS 'CPS Dash' per the label - and they also named their hardware platform between CPS and CPS II (which again has a different A Board design) 'CPS Dash' as well :D I guess Street fighter 2 hyper is technically CPS (CPS1) 3 layer stack, running a 12mhz A board - the board of which they sticker labelled as 'cps dash', despite actually being a different A board to the ACTUAL hardware they later released as 'CPS-Dash' (1.5) Confusing right :D In short Skankingarounds hardware is original/correct for Hyper :D :D
  19. @redferatu I know SF2 hyper use a 12mhz version of the A board, and the label on that A board will say CPS Dash I still refer to it as CPS1, as ive always known CPS 1.5 to be like the below (after cps1, pre cps2) Who knows :D
  20. @Skankingaround Looks like a decent cab. Monitor working , 2x 6 button setup, MCA sticks I think $300-400 is fair to be honest. Could easily sell the faulty SF2 PCB, and buy a pandoras box if looking to stay inside a budget
  21. Definitely original CPS1 PCB. I had graphical corruption a little different to what youre seeing, and the issue was on the very top C board. With the game powered on, you can put pressure on that main centre chip on the C board to see if the characteristics change. Being said, many other culprits for graphic issues, chips on the B board etc etc. Outside of that, to troubleshoot it as a DIY, youd generally need a working boardset, and swap over a known good board at a time e.g. A, B, C board. In terms of paying for a repair on the PCB - depends what you get quoted. Ive seen many boardsets come up for around the $250-300 mark quite often, in working state, but its all relevant to whats available at the time I guess. Regarding "Is it worth picking up if the price is right? $300-$400?" I wouldnt be basing the purchase on the defective pcb, but rather whether the cab is worth it in this case. I mean the pcb issue could be minor, might still give its value as-is $100 on its own just for its parts I guess the answer to your question would depend on what cabinet it is, the condition of it, etc. Any pics of the actual cab? cheers
  22. According to the mk4 pdf, it seems top and bottom sides. i guess you could just bend all 4 pins inward to the one connection , use a bigger piece of heatshrink over the 4 pins , and do the same for the ground? (or run 2x 12v wires, bend 2 lots of 2 pins together inward) hope that makes sense. Could just run a thicker gauge. I wouldnt run 4 separate wires to it in other words.
  23. Hi. A bit of a hard one to diagnose on description alone. Did you happen to have a video? I know with some of the Pandoras, you wont be able to actually enter into a game on the list until you have coined up first, and it only lets you scroll - so its possible the failure to coin up with coin mech may be the cause of that (maybe its a bunged coin mech) Do you have a credit button, or otherwise, what happens if you get a bit of a jump wire and do a couple of jumps from Pin 16 top side (coin 1) on JAMMA harness to one of the ground wires e.g. pin 1 Does it coin up? does it let you enter into a game with button 1 on player 1 side after this and all buttons work fine? Do you have another PCB to test in the cabinet? I would have suggested wiring e.g. making sure pin 27 on JAMMA harness top/bottom side werent permanently grounded, because with 'CHAMMA' wiring requirement on pandora, that makes button 6 held down, and would subsequently prevent entering into games from the menu (in contrast to normal JAMMA wiring using pin 27 as ground instead of used for a 6th button) - however, it seems unlikely, as you said the cabinet was working for a while in the past, and this shouldnt cause any impact to coin up side of things. Would suggest a manual override to credit up and see if it all works (isolating to a bad coin mech only), or test another pcb. From memory, the pandoras have a test button right - does it let you test button input in there, anything permanently on, do buttons work fine in the test?
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