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Rich

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Rich last won the day on September 15

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    Victoria
  • Machines in your collection
    Quicksilver,PowerPlay, Vector, Supersonic, Solar Ride, Old Chicago, Bronco, XBOX and a PS4

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  1. watching the mirrored wardrobe doors wobble looked different
  2. well worth the effort, great mix of coin op 👍
  3. it's an old one, but as a Ben Mendelsohn fan, just finished watching Tangle. not sure how to blank out a section of text that when you click on it it then reveals the text, but was spewin' he wasn't in it for longer, oh yeh, spoiler, but still worth the watch imo. oh, and still lovin' Animal Kingdom
  4. just an observation, i think the old pop bumper caps will look better than new, they will fit in perfectly with the rest of the machine. new caps would draw your attention to them and look out of place imo, like when older women try and look younger, it stands out and looks ridiculous. oh please no one get offended by that and crack the shits. the machine is old and as it's being kept original, leave it that way.......if that's what you want to do?
  5. a few more pics, thought it was all cool until i saw it again in sunlight, after the fix then after another coat..... so it had to be fixed. so firstly undercoat then now 2 litres of matte black have been used, on the headbox and cabinet, inside and out. whaaaaaat? 2 litres? this cab was a mess and it took multiple coats to get it to its current stage. many hours of filling, sanding and spraying to get it level. No spray putty used. I've noticed that some Meteor's weren't painted fully on the inside, but this LAI was.....maybe all LAI were?
  6. sorry @Autosteve, sort which problem out specifically? all the drop target letters and numbers being seen correctly is coming as per post.....can't find post numbers? anyway i mentioned the problem hopefully being rectified by a modification to come, waiting on stainless steel. Post posted Wednesday 6:45pm, mentioned in between pics, easily overlooked. "But it can be rectified, it's in the process, more to come."
  7. am i missing something, which i expect, but have post numbers been removed? i am wanting to reference a certain post but cant find the #?
  8. all good mate, i knew it wasn't a Bally speaker, just that it looked like one and mentioned that in case someone had done a speaker upgrade in their pin and had a spare lying you could use to get you out of trouble for the ti,e being.
  9. i meant no offence regarding cost @swinks, it was almost decided that your targets would be the way to go as CPR didn't router out enough on the playfield for the number 3 drop targets to fit. Well original ones may have fit but the number 3 cut out is smaller in length/width opposed to the 1's & 2's. it is stated online that a Bally drop target cannot be used in a Stern and vice versa. the first early Bally drop target banks had the switches on the bottom of the assembly, the nub went through a hole in the bottom bracket to actuate the switch. Bally then changed to side mount switches. This may already be known, but Bally and Stern drop targets aren't interchangeable due to where the target rests upon reset. With Bally the top bracket of the assembly sits flush with the playfield and the target when raised/reset rests on the rectangular cut out. But with Stern the top bracket is the opposite to Bally, say upside down hence the long finger on the drop target on the underside of the face. It has been going around in my mind wondering if I swap the bracket to be the same as Bally and have it sit flush with the underside of the playfield if a Bally drop target may in fact work in a Stern drop target assembly? As all the rebuilt drop target banks have to be stripped down again to do the modifications I will put my question to the test. as dirty as the assemblies may look, it's just visual, they have all be washed down and cleaned up leaving their original look, and are smooth to touch.
  10. it looks like an early Bally pinball speaker. my understanding is the amplifier itself designed to run 4 or 8 ohm speakers, or even 16. using a 4 ohm speaker with an amp designed for a resistance of 8 ohms will cause it to overheat and eventually die. and vice versa you would have to turn up the pot more with an 8 ohm speaker in place of a 4 ohm to get the same level of volume. but if you can't find an 8 ohm equivalent you can put a 3.9 ohm 5W resistor in series with one of the wires. for the time being you can repair the one you have as you mention changing your set up down the track. in the past i've used aviation no:4 sealant
  11. the playfield is thicker by the amount of clear that was put on after it was purchased. the original Fathom targets had a 'hood' on top, the reproductions I've seen are the same as the original, I did not notice the print being lower, but it was a few ago now, I don't have the answer as to why the all the reproduction Meteor drop targets were made as they are, with a ledge and hood. The original METEOR drop targets had a 'hood' on them, but not a ledge as they are now. @swinks remakes the original blank Stern drop targets with and without the hood that are reinforced and as per the 1,2, &3 drop targets for Meteor and were considered getting but it would have been around $300, some modifications will be done that 'should' work to have the aftermarket targets sit nicely. it could be a topic for another thread but i've come across so many reproduction parts that are not up to spec and would also like to know why. Maybe a sign of the times where it's just about the money and not about the quality? way way back, like 20 years ago i contacted Steve at PBR regarding parts i purchased from him that were faulty, now Steve can have his days, like all of us, but i got him on a bad day and he wasn't happy with my legitimate complaints and back then he called me "the fussy Australian" and since then i can't email PBR, i have to call Steve personally if i want something, i got email banned.
  12. Fuc*king reproduction crap. Have taken into account, maybe, that as the ball can sit in the cut out, they remade the original tombstone drops, with the added ledge, but not take into account how the graphics may look, gee guys you've dropped at least 3mm from the top HELLLLLO!!! I understand the added ledge on inline targets, but only just on not correctly adjusted parallel ones. I'm stumped at the stupidity of people that remake pinball parts that aren't up to spec. it's becoming more obvious/frequent as time rolls on. There's no duty of disclosure here stating that your replacement targets graphics will sit below the playfield and look different from the original hence look wrong. Yet again the affect is a hassle to the buyer. As far as I know @swinks is the only person to remake better original blank drop targets that you can then apply remade decals to suit. Here's the new version that obviously has a main flaw, they haven't raised the graphics to accommodate for the addition of the ledge. But it can be rectified, it's in the process, more to come.
  13. a little bit more. if you've ever had to remove the adhesive vinyl on the side rails you'll know what a hassle it is. i tried once, a hair dryer then turps with a scraper, never again. these were quite bad so the option to was to replace with tassie oak, then a similar vinyl, buying online was tricky, trying to find something to replicate a 40 year old product, so after $50- down the drain the decision was black varnish which has the colour and clear to protect in one. but what you buy is a few millimetres too tall, so the excess was planed off to match the originals, and holes drilled to match also. as the original vinyl has a grain to it the hardwood worked a treat, as it also has a grain. tried brushing lightly, sanding between coats....that sucked so tried airbrushing, but the air brush was too small to deliver enough for coverage, so went a small bottom feeder. photos later will show it, but by the time the varnish had cured, they came up a treat. the pic of the one on it's own had just been sprayed, hence the gloss look, pin hole and no grain. photos later will show it, but by the time the varnish had cured, they came up a treat.
  14. not sure if you're keen on keeping the serial numbers/letters, or just going to fill them, but using a very narrow jewelers screwdriver you can gently tap, going over the original letters/numbers to retain them. not so hard that you lift the ply, and it is tricky doing the curves, but achievable.
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