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Everything posted by namastepat

  1. Yeah, he said he loved it when he got it, definitely a character, that's for sure.
  2. I sold one in the pre-covid market. Minty as hell condition, boards fully serviced, entire thing working perfectly. Had it up for $2500 for ages. Ended up selling for $1800 and had pretty much zero interest aside from the one guy who bought it. It was a tough sell, due to the fact that it was an Orbit 1. It's a very average player and no one really seemed to care about it being the first Aussie built pin. I'd say in the current market, the COVID prices are dying and the evidence is all over the place with high priced pins advertised and never moving (finally). For a non-working Orbit 1, in today's market, I'd ask like $1500 depending on the condition the playfield, backglass and cab are in.
  3. That convergence is 100% par for the course for every 2931 I have seen, and I've seen quite a few. It can be fixed with convergence strips and time.
  4. I wouldn't recommend a Blast City for your first candy cab, they are a giant pain in the ass, especially the monitors. I would recommend a less fiddly candy like an Astro City, New Astro City, Atomiswave or Naomi. Candy market is a bit dry right now, and when well priced stuff does come up, it's gone in less than a few days usually. Just keep your eyes peeled on Gumtree, Facebook marketplace and also here. Right now, going rate for a nice Astro is around $1300-$1500 or so. If you're lucky, you will snag one for less, but the bargains are thin on the ground these days. One was just advertised on the Aussie Arcade facebook page for $1000 and it got a lot of interest and sold fast.
  5. The original and best, made by our very own @dee2eR https://arpicade.com/ Excellent support provided and a great community around it. I've got one with the 4-player board and it's awesome. Take into account the underpowered nature of the Pi when you do this. It won't run everything in mame well and I'm not sure about Daphne. Someone else can chime in there.
  6. No neck glow means the tube isn't getting power. Has a fuse blown on the chassis? Should be at least one fuse to check, maybe two.
  7. Yeah, this one has been sitting a while. Price was briefly dropped to $500 for a while, didn't sell. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hatton-vale/video-games/arcade-game/1297992364 I've seen more clones springing up around the place these days, more than usual anyway. They usually get advertised between $750-$1000 and then sit for ages until the price comes down. The clones can often be a tough sell, as they generally have pretty shoddy internal wiring and sub-par Chinese clone chassis. The main buyers for clones are those that don't know much about cabs and just want a machine with a working multiboard. As yours has the Rasbpi in it, if it's properly setup, and you can show it working to potential customers, I'd ask $600-$700 and see if you get any bites. If you do advertise it, ensure you get good photos of the back of the tube with the tube label and also the chassis that connects to the tube.
  8. As in identifying the connector type? Or identifying the purpose of the connector? Looks very similar to a two pin 110V power connector. Wire gauge thickness looks about right as well. Don't know the connector type, but @Ryan555might.
  9. Good, bloody flipper can get stuffed. What a bullshit thing to try and do.
  10. Oh yeah, a lot of cash for what it is, but it's better than the only other alternative, which is jury rigging a widescreen LCD into the cab, which never looks good.
  11. Well, if you watch the video, you can see that guy do it, with a pretty decent explanation of how. Works very well, but I'd love to see one in the flesh.
  12. Just stumbled across this on reddit and it's very interesting. From what I have seen, this is the first very close to 4:3 29 inch monitor LCD replacement for a candy cab. https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/vs796h/new_net_city_lcd_ips_edition_rebuild/ It uses one of these LG Dualup monitors, which are 16:18 aspect ratio and kind of like two smaller widescreen monitors stacked on top of one another. https://www.lg.com/au/it-monitors/lg-28mq780-b It's a bit of an oddball monitor, but as shown in the video, they make an almost perfect replacement for 29 inch candy cabs. Could be good for people who need to replace a CRT and no longer have to replace it with a poorly fitted widescreen LCD.
  13. I think of it as a tiny Bat Mobile on speed
  14. You wanna see an electric car that will absolutely blow your mind? Watch this video of the Goodwood Festival of Speed Shootout and skip to the 39 min mark. It's worth watching a few from like 30mins onwards to get a feel for how the fast cars do the hill climb and then watch the McMurtry fan-assisted downforce car do it. It's bloody insane how fast that thing moves. To put it in perspective, a V8 supercar did the course in 51 seconds. The McMurtry utterly blitzes it, and literally every other car on the track. So good to watch.
  15. Sony! If you're only keeping one, keep the Sony. If you're keeping two, keep the Philips over the Sharp due to the component on the Philips. Component is only a tiny step down in quality from SCART RGB and is usually the best 480p input on consumer TVs.
  16. Oh yeah, I have 1 x 4:3 68cm under my house with component, S-Video and composite. Then 1 x 51cm with S-video and composite, then around 3-4 14 inch with composite. That doesn't include the arcade tube stash I keep either Under my house looks like this (don't worry, it's dry and all the chassis are stored in boxes in my garage).
  17. There is one in the photo with all three inputs, composite, s-video and component. Reading the rest of your info better, it's the Sony. Keep the Sony as it has the best inputs and is more than likely the best quality screen. Sony made top-notch consumer TVs.
  18. Keep the one with the best inputs. Ignore all other considerations. You want the one with component + S-video as anything old you want to display on it, will be displayed best on component in 480p. I culled my garage CRT stash a while back and kept one 32 inch widescreen LG, entirely based on the range of inputs it has. It's the only CRT I have owned that has HDMI and does 100hz/60hz switching. I mainly run it in 4:3 with consoles hooked up via composite, S-video and component, but it's super nice to be able to have the newer stuff (Raspberry pi, various retro mini consoles, PS3) hooked up via HDMI at 16:9 as well. Sadly, it has terrible corner focus due to the 'slimline' design of the tube. Can never have it all with bloody CRTs, unless you are willing to sell a kidney for a PVM.
  19. If they are 2931s and have been sitting unpowered for a while, will be very interesting to see what kind of shape they are in.
  20. You 100% need a degauss wand to wave over that and it will be fixed right away. That looks like standard degauss discolouration. Very common.
  21. Huh, I've never seen one of those in Aus. It's a New VS City, rather than a standard Vs City. No idea if that increases or decreases its value, but it will have different monitors and internal hardware when compared to a standard VS City, which are the more common ones in Aus. If you want to sell it and get decent coin for it, you'll need to be able to show it working with an image on both screens.
  22. Is this the guy who posted on here ages ago saying he was making a doco and asking for people to interview for it?
  23. Really need photos, but if it's in the good condition you say it is (particularly the monitors) someone is likely to pay $1500 or more, depending on the buyer. They don't sell for much more than standard candy (sometimes even less) as they are a tough sell due to their size.
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