namastepat

We used to sometimes nab the 24 hour rat packs from surplus stores when were heading out on bivouacs in cadets. It used to be a game to compare how out of date they were 😄 I remember eating one with a use by of the early 1990s, when we were consuming them in the late 1990s. Still totally fine. They used to come with tiny little 3 piece packs of Juicy Fruit and PK chewing gum, those were the best! Off topic, but if you like your rat packs, this Youtube channel is the absolute best. Just a dude, eating rat packs from different worldwide militaries. Some of them insanely old. Well worth a watch, especially for some of the really old WW2 stuff. https://www.youtube.com/@Steve1989MRE

Just the chassis. Discharge it, disconnect the relevant connectors from the tube and the arcade board, wrap it well in bubblewrap and then send it off in a sturdy box. Most important thing is to wrap the chassis well and pack the box so the chassis can't move around in transit.

Vertical collapse. You need to power it off, discharge the tube, remove the chassis and send it off to Jomac for repair.

Sold on Facebook.

Anything new is unlikely to have VGA though, and if it does have DVI, it might only be DVI-D, which can't be run through a VGA to DVI converter, you need DVI-A for that. Best bet would be a secondhand one that has native VGA to suit the boards you are trying to connect.

Just buy one cheap from Gumtree. You don't need anything special, just one that is the same size as the original and has VGA or DVI. They are super plentiful online. You will likely find it's a 24 or a 27 inch though, as 26 is not a common size in widescreen LCDs.

Hey guys, Price - $375 Up for sale I have a Japanese PC Engine with IFU-30 Interface Unit and the CDROM2 unit with a working Super System 3.0 card to get the CDROM2 booting games. The PC Engine console works 100% perfectly with no issues. The Interface Unit is in pretty good shape, with only minor wear and tear. Nothing cracked, broken or missing. The console does come with a controller, but it's in rough shape. There are screws missing and the back is partially cracked open and loose. Despite this, it does work fine. The CDROM2 does boot games, but the laser is pretty weak and likely needs a good potentiometer adjustment. It works best when the console is stood with the CD facing vertically, rather than laying down horizontally. As anyone familiar with CD based consoles, this is a classic sign of a weak laser. Anyone remember flipping their PSX consoles upside down to get them to read discs back in the day? 😄 The console has a generic 240V PSU to provide power, which needs to be rotated to the right spot to make a good connection. Once the connection is made, it's totally fine. But if it gets moved, the Interface unit can lose power. It's reliable as long as you don't yank on the cable and move it when it's running. It's difficult to price these units, as advertised and sold prices are all over the place, and they are pretty uncommon for sale outside of Japan. I have priced it at what I think is a fair middle ground, but always happy to discuss price with a keen buyer. Can be demonstrated working for a local buyer and I am happy to upload a video to YouTube for anyone who is not local.

Looks like your +12 and +5 to the JAMMA harness are disconnected/broken. They will need to be reconnected properly for anything to work.

Jeez, those side panels look minty fresh! Not many like that around these days. Great score!

Your best bet would be to find a gutted cabinet and use that. Saves building it. Keep your eye on Gumtree and Facebook marketplace and look for empty cabs, they come up pretty frequently. You could also post a wanted ad on here and state where you are located, people get rid of empty cabs fairly regularly.

What's happened is, because your PC BIOS battery has gone flat, the CMOS system clock has lost its time and date. Due to the way your system is setup, this means that this change is causing Windows to throw a fit, and it is not booting into whatever frontend has been configured with your emulator and ROMS. The screen image is likely screwed as the drivers are not loading properly and it is not booting into 15khz. You could replace the BIOS battery on the motherboard and then go into BIOS to set the date and time, but this still might not fix it, as Windows might need the time and date set as well. It's beyond any further troubleshooting I can do online. Also, as I have no idea how the system is configured, I don't know what frontend is being run, or the graphics drivers to boot it into 15khz. Too many unknowns. The system is very old, as it is running Windows XP in that photo. EDIT: If it boots to windows, and you can find the folder with your frontend in it, I would make a bet you could still double click on the frontend, load it up and have it working. The frontend for a system that old would most like be Mala or MameWAH. If you can find a folder named one of those things, go into it and load the .exe file in the folder to see if the frontend loads.

Well if it's for a medium res game, you could likely use the entire monitor and save the uni chassis for something else. From memory, it was a Toei medium res chassis. It was tested working when I stored it, but that was like 2-3 years ago. Tube has been stored in a dry area under my house, chassis has been stored in a box in my games garage.

25 inch as in 59cm in our sizing? Or 26 inch 63cm? I only ask as they are very commonly confused tubes due to the different way they are measured. I have a 25 inch under my house that I am likely never gonna use, but it only has a 24khz medium res chassis with it. No 15khz, or 31khz. I believe it came from a Big Buck Hunter. Could be usable if you were planning on pairing it with a universal chassis. Shoot me a PM if you are interested and we can arrange something.

Hook up a keyboard, press F1 then see if it keeps booting. It should and you then should be fine to hook it back up to the cabinet and boot it up. If the problem persists, the bios battery is flat and needs replacing. But you can always skip it by pressing F1 with a keyboard hooked up.

All you will need will be one VGA or DVI plug and an older model LCD monitor. You may not even need to remove the PC from the cabinet. Just located the video lead, it will likely be VGA and hook it up direct to an old LCD monitor that also has VGA. EDIT: I can see where the VGA plugs into the JAMMA board connected to your harness in the photos. See the blue cable that hooks up to the JAMMA board on top of the PC? Carefully unplug that, hook it up to an LCD monitor and then power on the PC.