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Maxprofits

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  • State
    Alice Springs
  • Machines in your collection
    Stargate, STTNG, Fishtales, Cosmic Princess, Twlight Zone

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  1. Both the top buttons on the trigger grips were bugger on the one I fixed, so +1 to what Stuba said.
  2. Pete, Well done! I should have read your posts before replying to your PM. :laugh: Every time you fix something new, you learn something! I very much enjoy the fault finding side of this hobby too. Cheers, Dan.
  3. Paid $1 for this board off ebay (From Bumper Action). $11 for a rebuild kit and a couple of dollars for through holes and track. Its a cheap DMD controller board that will last for years. Much cheaper than the replacement board or replacement HV board.
  4. Recently I purchased a U/S DMD controller board from a 90's Williams/Bally machine. The board had a hole burnt in it that had been cut out with a dremel tool and very poor repair attempted by soldering a piece or vera board to the main board. http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/2453/dmdbeforeveraboard.jpg"]http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/2453/dmdbeforeveraboard.jpg[/url] To repair this board I first removed all the burnt components and sanded the crap and corruption of the board to allow a clean surface. Next I straighted out the edges of the hole use a dremel and file. Next I cut a piece of blank PCB and trimmed it the fix the hole in the main board. Next I taped the new piece of board in place one side and araldite it in from the other. After this araldite had set I did the same to the other side of the board and heated the repaired area with a pre-heater for a couple of hours at about 120 Degrees to really bake in the glue. Next I sanded back excess glue the marked the placed to drill the new holes. After drilling the new holes its just a matter of installing new plated through holes and track. [/url]"]URL=http://img291.imageshack.us/i/img1569vz.jpg/]http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/966/img1569vz.jpg[/url] The new area is lighter in colour. http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2486/img1567cx.jpg"]http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2486/img1567cx.jpg[/url] I also had to replace all of the remaining track and holes as they were buggered from heat exposure in the past. I hope this information is helpful to someone. So please dont through away your old broken PCB's as most of them can be fixed given enough time and effort. :)
  5. I'll find out where we got the kit from that I use at work. We also have a track repair kit which is really nice, its basically track on a role and comes in different sizes. I'll try to take a decent photo of a DMD controller board, that had a 20cent size hole burnt in it, that I repaired using both these kits. If I get a good photo I'll post a new tread in the board repair area. Cheers, Dan.
  6. More often than not you will pull out a through hole when you remove the caps. This is because of the heat generated over hours of continual use has caused weakness in the hole plating. I have access to an excellent through hole repair kit, which really takes the stress out of board repair.
  7. These boards usually need new capacitors, bridge rectifier and maybe some header pins. If you get struck you can send it out to me, don't know what postage to the is gunna be like however.
  8. Congrats! I'm sure all the hard work feels like it's paid off now! Enjoy! I'm Jealous.
  9. GPE sell the input RFI line filters. http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=28&pg=2 I have a filter from Jaycar installed in my Fishtales, but will be installing the one from GPE in the Demo Man I'm fixing up as the RFI filter and Transformer are both missing from this game! :blink:
  10. A quick way to test the transmit LED's is to unscrew the board, leave the connector on the board and power up the game. Once you have verified that the board is getting power (Red LED is on), you can see if the IR LEDs are working by viewing them through a digital camera, yes the one on your mobile phone is fine.:D If the IR LED's are working they will glow when viewed through the digital camera. Quick and easy way to check if the IR LED's are working. You have to remove the board to clean the LED's so you may as well test them while you have the board out. Cheers, Dan
  11. I reckon it has more to do with the fact the TZ was a popular game when they were on site and copped a huge amount of plays and were powered up for long periods of time.
  12. The first TZ I owned had one globe on the GI working when I got it, that was how badly repaired and let go it was. I learnt a lot about pin repair from that machine :p I honestly believe that many TZ owners throw thier hands in the air and say "its just to hard to fix" Hence everything seems to be broken on every TZ I've seen!
  13. -Ball trough keeps spitting out balls=trough board opto/s buggered. Replace transmitter LED. Switch test will show which opto/s are bad. -Random multiball=Subway opto/s dirty, dry jointed or broken, switch test will show you where. -Cannon not finding home and/or you keep blowing F116=Cannon wiring loom broken and or shorting to ground. Remove cannon covers, inspect and pin out as required, replace wires. So many things that can go wrong with this game. See Clays' site for a much more complete list of issues. Great famliy game but STtNG can require lots of running repairs.
  14. -Ball trough keeps spitting out balls=trough board opto/s buggered. Replace transmitter LED. Switch test will show which opto/s are bad. -Random multiball=Subway opto/s dirty, dry jointed or broken, switch test will show you where. -Cannon not finding home and/or you keep blowing F116=Cannon wiring loom broken and or shorting to ground. Remove cannon covers, inspect and pin out as required, replace wires. So many things that can go wrong with this game. See Clays' site for a much more complete list of issues. Great famliy game but STtNG can require lots of running repairs.
  15. Common problems. -Clock will be cooked: Replace all clock opto's and replace #86 globes with LED's, do a google search for more info. -Power ball filthy: Novus 3 and/or 2 and a rag and lots of elbow grease. Or tumble on its own. Replacements avalible but expensive. -Slot machine scoop weld broken: Replace or re-weld (get someone good to do the welding, its a two minute job) Put a few extra welds to increase the strenght of the scoop. -GI connectors cooked on the Power Driver Board: Replace with Trifurcon pins and new connector plus header pins on the board itself. Great game but something of a beast to shop.:p
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