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richard.m

Aussie Arcade Member
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Everything posted by richard.m

  1. until

    See what I can do about my new latest rubbish score!
  2. until

    Turns out 175,230 is rubbish too!I Was coming first for at least 5 minutes - that felt good!
  3. until

    Hang on, forget that previous rubbish score - 175,230. rubbish
  4. That sounds absolutely terrifying!
  5. Some other insulation & gyprock products to consider if you were interested in sound proofing at all are the following: https://www.gyprock.com.au/products/plasterboard-soundchek https://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/home-insulation/walls/soundscreen I have used them & they work extremely well.
  6. Jeff, we like to refer to that pub strictly as "The Cranker" here! (Grenfell St) The Austral have had pins there consistently since the 90s. Great pub!
  7. That's s good idea cutting a 12 pin down, that will work as long as it's a wafercon series connector. Probably best to check Wayne's listing as their is no pic on that item to verify or look elsewhere. .
  8. Hard to find now anywhere, even in the States, but you can get them from here. They are good to deal with too. I bought some of the 6 & 12 pin Wafercon connectors for the early Williams power supplies from them. They have a lot of hard to find parts - you might find some other stuff you need to justify OS shipping. I can't exactly remember what I bought, but these all look like the correct parts to replace the 6 pin connector set. Just double check if you do get get them from there. https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/molex-6-pin-093-wafercon-pcb-header-jack-cc1033/ https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/molex-6-pin-093-power-connector-male-receptacle/ https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/connectors-sockets-pins/093-molex-connectors/molex-093-pins-male-14-20-awg-loose-10-pack/ https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/connectors-sockets-pins/093-molex-connectors/molex-093-pins-female-14-20-awg-loose-10-pack/ 12 pin Wafercon. https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/molex-12-pin-093-wafercon-pcb-header-jack-cc1032/
  9. I had a Flash Gordon which was originated from a bulk container import from Zimbabwe (as per apron decal) around 2017 around the time this vid was filmed. The game was in absolutely terrible condition when I got it, literally rotted & falling apart. I wonder if my game was amongst that lot? as their were so many games maybe some of the bad condition games were rejected & then purchased & imported here? I recognise the same type of square heavy duty coin door security hasp used on some of the games in the vid - which was the same style as my game had - pretty bloody ugly!
  10. Thought I would give this a bump as I am still looking for an Original playfield.
  11. This score was driven by Kombucha this arvo. Maybe @Crakkers you should drink some of your strong homemade Kombucha before playing!
  12. I was looking for years here & overseas for the same transparent red & blue 1.5" hole to hole guides, just like the original guides, with no diffuser lines. I did find some NOS blue guides. These transparent guides have have never been reproduced until now, which is why they are so hard to find - only one vendor in Germany has recently been faithfully reproducing them (link below) They look great, nice rich deep colour, just like the originals. Everyone else sells the same 1.5" guides as in your pic with the diffuser lines that look awful as well as washed out lighter than original colours (mainly the blue guides in particular) The 2 1/2" hole to hole guides are easy to find & have always been available everywhere in transparent red with no diffuser lines. https://www.buthamburg.de/en/03-7034-erhoehte-kanten-williams-rot-tr I don't have any spares as I used all the red guides I bought & their was a limit of 10 units of each style per order. They also have reproduced the original Williams style with the embossed "Diamond" pattern which look fantastic @Pinoffski https://www.buthamburg.de/en/3a-7034-with-crosslogo-blue-tr It's very expensive for shipping directly from the vendor (FedEx) about AU85.00, but you can use https://www.mailboxde.com (using the cheap Czech postal service shipping option) to forward the parcel from Germany to Australia - shipping is about AU48.00 this way. You just ship the parcel from the vendor to the mailboxde address & they take care of o/s shipping, even better is you can split the shipping cost with someone. Here are some pics - they are a deeper richer colour that the pics depict, look exactly the same as the originals.
  13. 573,890 It's a start. Not sure what's going on with these 890s!
  14. Outsider! Edit: hang on, that was me I had in mind!
  15. Yeah, that was a fun experiment. The two leads from that socket connect to the remote coin door volume pot with a couple of alligator clips. A double plug was used for that socket to enable two bluetooth transmitters, which each had two outputs, so 4 headphones could be used at the same time. Worked well, however having no conversation between all four players became strange pretty quickly. "Centaur by night" was great in particular, was kinda creepy when you leave the room & go outside in the dark & hear Centaur's voice right in your head! you can keep track of what's going on with other players & when to come back in for a ball.
  16. First have a look at the coin door start/reset button switch, check the outer switch blade (with the red wire attached) & make sure the fish paper is insulating that switch blade from the metal plate at the end of the switch stack & not shorting with that plate. This red wire is a common switch matrix connection wire with the plumb bob/roll cage tilt red wire (A4J3-2) also physically check the switch diode, the other blade's fish paper insulator to this switch too that it all looks ok. Also check the wiring at the coin door hinge area where it enters the cabinet for any problem there as the wires sometimes get damaged at that contact point. If all ok, start a game, if it tilts on starting/booting a game it doesn't matter, with a game started, disconnect the big square 24 pin molex coin door plug just inside the cabinet to isolate the coin door from the matrix, once disconnected, if it has tilted at this point just put the ball in the outhole to advance to the next ball, if problem goes away, you probably have a bad diode on the start/reset switch or a short in the coin door wiring (relating to the start switch) at least this way you can eliminate the coin door & look elsewhere for the issue. Something else to check is the outhole switch, this switch has a common switch wire to the under playfield tilt switch (A4J2-1) check or replace the diode & look for any physical shorts there. This could also explain booting up to a tilt. Boot the game up several times without the ball in the outhole so the switch is open & see if it still tilts.
  17. If the parcel is to come from Germany (only) you can use this parcel forwarding company: https://www.mailboxde.com/ I just used them successfully to forward a small parts order from a German supplier. If I had opted for the parts supplier to ship here, the shipping cost was very expensive via their only option FedEx, I used the Czech post option (limited tracking) to ship here after the parcel arrived in Germany at the maiulboxde.com address, this worked out very cheap in comparison to FedEx.
  18. That does look really nice, colours are really strong. I think it must have a full backing behind the glass as the blue score window filters look dark.
  19. I added a new thread here regarding Coos backglass films. https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/100229-coos-repro-backglasses/
  20. Here are some pics of a Quicksilver backglass I created using a film/foil from Coos which is another great replacement backglass option @flynnyfalcon Basically, Coos (located in the Netherlands) can supply either a superb quality finished true mirrored backglass faithful to an original, which a few people here have purchased here over the years or a similar quality non-mirrored backglass. If you purchase a mirrored glass you will need to buy a finished backglass he has created with a method that prints directly to glass. However, If you are after a non-mirrored backglass, you have an option of purchasing a finished backglass or just the film/foil of the art which you apply yourself to a sheet of plain glass, greatly reducing the shipping cost as the foil/film is shipped in a tube. The end result will look the same as buying a finished non-mirrored backglass from Coos - but about half the cost. Coos is great to deal with, The cost of the film including shipping to AU is 220 Euro (approx AU$350) & was shipped to me in just over 2 weeks from ordering via Fed Ex. Then about $35 for a sheet of plain glass cut to size. The film is very high quality, #44/47 globes can be used to backlight instead of LEDs if preferred, the end result is superb & just like an original backglass, layers & masking is perfect. The Quicksilver repro had better resolution than the original looking right up close. Their is a video showing how to create the backglass on Coo's website as well as a list of titles. https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/Backglasses.html Another great vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKurR-gyK00 I pretty much followed the videos except for a couple of things I did differently. This is what I did: I had a sheet of 3mm standard glass cut (tempered not available in 3mm thickness) exactly the same size of the original. I measured to distance from the bottom of the glass edge to the bottom edge of the score display window & measured the distance on the glass side edge also to the edge of the score display window. I laid the foil down on the new glass & positioned with the same measurements to ensure the correct positions for the score displays when installed. I then trimmed a small amount of film overhang from all the sides so the film is exactly the size of the glass. You need two people for the actual application. Once the plain glass has been perfectly cleaned it is ready to apply the film. First I completely saturate the glass with a water sprayer that has a couple of drops of detergent. Use much more water than you think you need, I can't stress enough you have to have the glass completely saturated in water so the film can almost float on it you can't have too much as it gets squeegeed out. Then, one person holds the film by the edges & the other person starts peeling the backing off, once the backing is off, the other person completely saturates the back of the just unpeeled film ready to apply. Carefully lay the film on the glass & aim to get it as close as possible to the finished position off the bat, the water in-between the glass & film allows some adjustment, however, try not to press down much, if you start pressing down too much it can begin to stick & you may not be able to adjust the position any further. This is where having the film cut to the exact size of the glass helps as you just ensure there is no overhang to know you have correct alignment. Once positioned, I used a wide felt squeegee & starting from the centre outward. You must squeegee quite firmly & go over & over the whole glass many times, you need to look at all angles to ensure all the water is out, small bubbles are hard to see, even after about 5 minutes of squeegee action in all directions I still found a few small bubbles I missed I quickly removed, you don't have much time to muck around. In the end I only was left with a small pinhead size bubble & a beautiful backglass. If you don't get all the bubbles out you can't after drying & they may be visible when finished. Once finished, I let dry for 2 days, then I ran a sharp blade on a 45 degree angle along all 4 sides of the glass to cut slivers off the edge of the film so the edge of the film finished just inside the glass edge so the edge of the film would not make contact with the trim edges. I installed several pieces of insulation tape inside the lift channel recess to create a buffer between the bottom of the backglass & the metal trim base. First 2 pics are the film laid out next to the glass., then the finished new backglass & final pic is the original backglass.
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