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Everything posted by Berty

  1. I'm doing a partial resto on a T2 Arcade machine. The machine doesn't have the artwork that goes on the glass so I ordered a reproduction decal. Now that the decal has arrived, it looks like it needs to be stuck onto the front of the glass. I thought this art would have gone behind the glass on a LAI machine so I wanted to check. So, does the artwork go on the front or behind the glass on an original LAI cab?
  2. As per the title, I want some arcade pushbuttons with 17mm mounting holes and a screw-type mounting. Does anyone who any suppliers / model numbers for buttons that meet this specification?
  3. Megalo 410 with LCD Screen for sale. *this is on hold until Sunday PM* Condition - cab was gutted when I got it and missing pretty much all internal parts. I since sourced the vast majority of the guts of a Megalo 410 and re-installed it to resemble what the original machine's layout would have been. Internally it has the original Megalo 410 power supply that can handle JAMMA level volume as well as sound over line level. There is the original wiring I/O that is the same as a Blast City and there is the Sega RGB amplifier board. In addition to these standard boards, there is a 31K Upscaler board that you can also use by shifting the DB15 plug out of the Sega RGB amplifier and in to the Upscaler. The screen is a Samsung LCD that automatically powers-up when the cab is switched on. Picture quality is nice but is 16:9 not 4:3, hence the black cardboard border around it. I've installed some new speaker cones to the blast city housings, although these don't fit 100%, you cannot notice from the outside of the cab. The machine also had some pain-work done as well as brand new Sanwa buttons and sticks. I also converted the original 2L8B control panel to 2L12B. Internal wiring is a bit messy but there is a ChAMMA adapter going in to the Pandora's box 6 which comes with the machine. There is no coin mech hardware, nor locking tabs for the control panel. Locks have been installed in the other panels though. Missing a few screws here and there but cosmetically a nice cab that lends itself nicely to modern 16:9, HD games. Plug and play and converted to 240V. I'm only selling because it doesn't seem to get any love when I have folks over. I also don't like the fact that it's not 4:3 and have lost interest in pursuing the projector solution for it. $1500 Australian Rubles. Although this is on hold until Sunday, happy for folks to take a look and lowball me in the meantime.
  4. Taito Chase H.Q. Deluxe In previous updates I shared my attempt at making a reproduction of the missing rear-wheel cover in the Chase H.Q. Deluxe body. In summary, using normal silicon did not give enough detail in the mould, resulting in a fiberglass cast that would have taken too much time and effort to correct with body filler. I decided to give a more specialised casting silicon a try. After doing some Googling I decided to go and visit the folks at Barnes to get their advice. One of the staff recommended that I try a paintable Silicon. The produce is provided in two parts which you mix equally by weight. Once mixes, you paint the silicon on your item with a normal paint brush. The best part about the product is that it sets in about four hours so you can lay down a couple of layers in a single day to build the thickness of the mould. The first step was the build a dam around the item you are going to cast. used painter's masking tap to stop the silicon getting into areas that would result in a tear when removed. Due to the size of the object, I decided to make the mould in two parts and then join the two pieces together later. Although the produce says that you don't need a release agent, I decided to add one to item anyway as it's owner had very kindly lent this to me for the restoration process. The picture above has the release agent (Vaseline) on it. Above is the first coat of silicon. I built a damn around the entire object to help keep the silicone contained. I ended up applying two coats to help build the thickness of the mould. Once this was done, I fiberglassed over the top of the silicon while still leaving the original in the mould. The folks at Barnes said that this step could be done with either plaster of paris or fiberglass. #Protip - add some sort of key to your mould as the silicon and fiberglass will not bond to each other, meaning that you will need to re-align to silicon to the fiberglass backing. Below are the two parts which were made out of fiberglass using fabric as the supporting material. I like the fabric because I find it a bit easier to work with. Before I bonded the two pieces together, I needed to do some bogging and filling to address some of the imperfections that came about in the moulding process. For those of you following the mundane details of my hobby life, I have also been working on a G-Loc machine. As I needed to make a lathe, I took one of the DC motors out of the G-Loc, drilled a hold through the center of my new wheel and attached my lab power supply to make a ghetto lathe. The benefit of the lathe was to quickly sand and bog the wheel into a more perfect circle. Once I was satisfied with the general shape of the wheel and had bogged and filled the imperfection, I bonded the two sections together with more fiberglass and then did some more work to get the shape correct. After much stuffing around with paint, the car body was ready to have the final colour of paint applied - the white that is used only on the wheels. Predictably, my poor masking efforts on the black and red layers had left overspray on the white sections of the wheels so I decided to bite the bullet and re-paint all of the white surfaces. In the above picture you can see the finished rear wheel, attached to the body. I ordered some adhesive stainless steel wrap to replicate the silver inner section of the wheels. Once the body was ready, I added back on the remaining hardware which included a new gear shifter, rotating police light, speakers, cooling fans and polished speaker covers. The police light required a fair bit of modification to get it to match the original light. I basically "cut and shut" the bottom section of the light to make it shorter. I then added different mounting points to the light using special plastic filler products to make sure I didn't need to drill new holes or permanently bond it to the body. The whole cabinet is getting new 100V AC cooling fans throughout. Sadly I could not find the original gear shifter for the deluxe cabinet so I had to customise the housing so that I could fit more a common T bar shifter with turbo button. I know it's a long shot, but if you have the deluxe shifter, please let me know. Speakers are just basic Aliexpress jobs as I intend on adding a low frequency extension speaker elsewhere on the cab. In the picture below, you can also see that I had to replace the bolt mounting points with nutsets. The original mounting points are rubber with a metal nut in the end of them. Only half of them remained so I decided to remove the old hardware and go with nutsets. That's it for updates on the Chase H.Q. at the moment. I've also been doing more work on the G-Loc but I'll post a separate update. 20210918_163128.mp4
  5. $50 If someone can pick this up before Saturday the 30th.
  6. Below are some pictures of the official Namco setup. Note that they have a single, multi-tap transformer that provides both sets of AC voltages to the FFB Motor Controller. The model number is NC8409 but I am unsure of the manufacturer.
  7. Hi @spinningbirdkick. Regarding the transformers - those will likely be too small. VA is not the same as amps. As an example 24V, 3VA is only 0.125 Amps which will be too low. There is a VA calculator that you can use here; https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/va-to-amps-calculator.html From memory, you would be needing 120VA on the 24V AC line to have sufficient current. Furthermore, it's interesting that you found a diagram that has a 30V AC transformer as opposed to a 24V one. I can confirm that a 24V transformer does indeed work but let me get back to you on where I got that information. Will the HAPP FFB Board work? I don't think it will but you should shoot them a question to their technical support line. Finally, Rave Racer uses a 5K potentiometer. My 2c is to try and find some larger transformers in the second hand market. 24V tends to be an easy voltage to find. I might have something spare that is 15V but I would need to check.
  8. Hi @spinningbirdkick and welcome to Aussie Arcade! In response to your question, The Namco FFB takes those AC input voltages and changes it to a DC voltage to control the steering motor. The DC output comes out of the J4 header on the Namco FFB PCB. You can measure the output at J4 with multimeters when the FFB Board is in action. I've had a quick Google to see what I can find about the Happ FFB. From the images I have seen, the Happ board does not convert AC to DC like the Namco one does. You can see on the Namco board that there is a circuit to convert AC to DC.
  9. I have a Yihua 948 soldering station that I am relatively happy with (for the cost) except for one little issue - I cannot buy replacement vacuum tubes for the de-soldering guns. Further to this, the vacuum tubes have a bad habit of melting and deforming to the point where it cannot maintain a seal with the housing, hence losing suction capability. Even extensive cleaning does not seem to mitigate this inevitability. I am wondering if others have either found a replacement tube for these guns OR found a gun from a different manufacturer that works with the unit and has better parts support?
  10. Comrades, before I make one of these I'd like to see if anyone wants to sell me a Sega Model 3 power loom. I am specifically looking for the JST connector that goes to the filter board. If you have the Model 3 Loom for Sega Blast City / Megalo 410, I'm also interested. The picture below is what I am chasing. At a minimum, I don't need the black connector end, but I do need the JST NH (white) connector end and wiring.
  11. Excellent write-up. I've learnt a lot that I can apply to some of the boards I am working through. Thanks for sharing.
  12. Fully working 50 inch viera with 2008 build date. Comes with remote but it is missing one of the covers. No colour issues. Makes a great room heater in the winter. The only down side is that the capacitors in the psu squeal in cold weather. $100 Pickup Brisbane South West.
  13. They've lifted copy from this website. They didn't notice that they also got their company name wrong. https://www.thepinballcompany.com/why-buy-from-us/
  14. Hi mate. Im interested but depends on location. Whereabouts are you?
  15. Bumping. I thought that getting a 20 inch CRT would be easy given that 90% of Australian 20 inch lowboys would have been "upgraded" to LCD by now.
  16. Hi mate. I'm pretty sure that the connector is a standard PCMIA adapter. I've never replaced one in an AES though. The MVS uses a right-angle PCMIA header.
  17. Thanks @cwispy. Do you have any further insight into whether it is safe to place a PCB that has inductors into an ultrasonic cleaner? I am thinking about what @AskJacob mentioned in his earlier post regrading possible water intrusion.
  18. Thanks @Azure. I am mainly interesting in using the cleaner to clean grubby boards prior to repair / troubleshooting and then afterwards to remove flux. I'm not sure what to believe online about chemicals for general cleaning. Chemicals to clean up flux tend to be a lot better documented though. Thanks @AskJacob I want to use the cleaner on boards that have inductors, potentiometers and electrolytic caps. Do you know if it is just a matter of how long these components are submerged and / or does it come down to how the boards are dried post cleaning?
  19. I've done some searching on this topic within the forums and more broadly but I am keen to hear the experience of AA users in relation to the use of ultrasonic cleaners for use of PCBs. I have a large (15L) ultrasonic cleaner that I use for various bits but not PCBs... yet. So who is using these for PCBs and what chemicals / techniques are you using?
  20. I don't think I would ever be able to keep up with the maintenance schedule!
  21. What's better than one G-Loc? Two G-locs I haven't done much with it but the PCB works fine and so does the right side motor and associate logic. The motor power board on the left is obviously blown. I think that cooling may have been an issue. Never have I seen so much dust. Below is just one example of how caked it is. I only bought this machine as a spare parts machine but it might be salvaged yet. More updates to come.
  22. As per title. Looking for a good condition 20 inch monitor and chassis. My preference is to get something in the greater Brisbane region.
  23. Have you considered using a hole punch? I frequently use a 30mm punch for steel control panels and it ends up being more neat than drilling.
  24. Usual disclaimer - I'm not an expert so take the following on at your own risk! I've forgotten to plug a yoke in before, but this usually leads to a very bright dot in the centre of the screen. The fact that you have some horizontal movement makes me think that you've perhaps damaged a solder joint on either the yoke, or the chassis between the vertical and horizontal coil
  25. Sega G-Loc I've spent a few hours on the Sega G-Loc over the last few days. Given the state of the machine, there was a lot of corrosion and damaged wires from rats. I spent a fair amount of time repairing the wiring harness and addressing obvious areas of corrosion on terminals, but I suspected that there were still issues - specifically corroded terminal pins causing connection issues between the various PCBs that are in the machine. I was able to track down another full wiring loom from a G-Loc machine in the US so I bought it and went about the process of replacing the entire wiring loom. In the process of replacing the wiring loom, I found a few chewed wires that I hadn't spotted previously. Once the entire wiring loom was replaced, I managed to get the boundary detection system working. The boundary detection system is made of of three pairs, of senders and detectors. A sender has two wires, a +12V DC input and a Ground wire. The detector has three wires, +12V DC, Ground and "Sense" - the sense wire is referred to as "out" on the actual sensor. The other part of the boundary detection system is the "Motion Stop" buttom. The motion stop button has five terminals labelled as NC, NO, C, L and L(+). More on this later.. With regard to the sensors, all three pairs are 'summed' into one hub. In other words, each pair of sensors comes back to a hub and all lead into a common output of 12V, Ground and Sense which goes to the digital motor control board. Under normal circumstances, the sense wire is 0V DC. But when you block any pair of boundary sensors the sense wire goes to +5DC until the blockage is removed. Now comes my dilemma... When I plug the motion stop button back in using the following approach... ...then when the button is depressed, the "sense" wire goes to -5V DC. The "sense wire" is the Grey and Yellow. +12V is Red and Ground is Red and White. So my dilemma is that surely pressing the motion stop button should do the same thing as when the sensors are block - that is surely it should go to +5V DC, not -5V DC? It would be super if someone who owns this machine could confirm the wiring to the motion stop button. Pretty please! Although I haven't entirely figured this out, the good news is that the boundary sensors now work! When the receivers are blocked, a red LED lights up on the relevant receiver. I also found some other chewed wires too during the process. One step closer to getting the machine to work. The next challenge is that one of the rebuilt motor control boards keeps on blowing the R1 and R2 resistors. R1 and R2 are cement, wire wound 1.2 Ohm, 5W resistors. These boards can be set to either take 100V AC or 200V AC as their input. My test rig only has 100V AC, while the cab has 220V (Mains) AC feeding these boards. From what I can tell, R1 (or) R2 does not fail when used at 100V, but seems to fail when using the 220V AC input. TR1 is usually a M8GZ47 but I have replaced it with a BT138X-600E in both the boards. TR1 was my first suspect, but I'm not sure. TR1 is the same in both boards now, except only R1 and R2 in this one seems to fail and only at 220V input, not 100V input. I am really keen to hear some other opinions from folks who are more expert than I am. I've labelled R1 and R2 in the image below. The board on the left is the one that seems to fail. I haven't pulled R1 and R2 yet to see if one or both of them have failed. I just find it odd that they seem to fail at 220V versus 100V. As you can seem I have replaced these before. I am wondering if the voltage rating of the replacements is not up to spec, despite the fact that they are all labelled as 5W. Keen for thoughts on this one.
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