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Berty

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  1. They've lifted copy from this website. They didn't notice that they also got their company name wrong. https://www.thepinballcompany.com/why-buy-from-us/
  2. Hi mate. Im interested but depends on location. Whereabouts are you?
  3. Bumping. I thought that getting a 20 inch CRT would be easy given that 90% of Australian 20 inch lowboys would have been "upgraded" to LCD by now.
  4. Hi mate. I'm pretty sure that the connector is a standard PCMIA adapter. I've never replaced one in an AES though. The MVS uses a right-angle PCMIA header.
  5. Thanks @cwispy. Do you have any further insight into whether it is safe to place a PCB that has inductors into an ultrasonic cleaner? I am thinking about what @AskJacob mentioned in his earlier post regrading possible water intrusion.
  6. Thanks @Azure. I am mainly interesting in using the cleaner to clean grubby boards prior to repair / troubleshooting and then afterwards to remove flux. I'm not sure what to believe online about chemicals for general cleaning. Chemicals to clean up flux tend to be a lot better documented though. Thanks @AskJacob I want to use the cleaner on boards that have inductors, potentiometers and electrolytic caps. Do you know if it is just a matter of how long these components are submerged and / or does it come down to how the boards are dried post cleaning?
  7. I've done some searching on this topic within the forums and more broadly but I am keen to hear the experience of AA users in relation to the use of ultrasonic cleaners for use of PCBs. I have a large (15L) ultrasonic cleaner that I use for various bits but not PCBs... yet. So who is using these for PCBs and what chemicals / techniques are you using?
  8. I don't think I would ever be able to keep up with the maintenance schedule!
  9. What's better than one G-Loc? Two G-locs I haven't done much with it but the PCB works fine and so does the right side motor and associate logic. The motor power board on the left is obviously blown. I think that cooling may have been an issue. Never have I seen so much dust. Below is just one example of how caked it is. I only bought this machine as a spare parts machine but it might be salvaged yet. More updates to come.
  10. As per title. Looking for a good condition 20 inch monitor and chassis. My preference is to get something in the greater Brisbane region.
  11. Have you considered using a hole punch? I frequently use a 30mm punch for steel control panels and it ends up being more neat than drilling.
  12. Usual disclaimer - I'm not an expert so take the following on at your own risk! I've forgotten to plug a yoke in before, but this usually leads to a very bright dot in the centre of the screen. The fact that you have some horizontal movement makes me think that you've perhaps damaged a solder joint on either the yoke, or the chassis between the vertical and horizontal coil
  13. Sega G-Loc I've spent a few hours on the Sega G-Loc over the last few days. Given the state of the machine, there was a lot of corrosion and damaged wires from rats. I spent a fair amount of time repairing the wiring harness and addressing obvious areas of corrosion on terminals, but I suspected that there were still issues - specifically corroded terminal pins causing connection issues between the various PCBs that are in the machine. I was able to track down another full wiring loom from a G-Loc machine in the US so I bought it and went about the process of replacing the entire wiring loom. In the process of replacing the wiring loom, I found a few chewed wires that I hadn't spotted previously. Once the entire wiring loom was replaced, I managed to get the boundary detection system working. The boundary detection system is made of of three pairs, of senders and detectors. A sender has two wires, a +12V DC input and a Ground wire. The detector has three wires, +12V DC, Ground and "Sense" - the sense wire is referred to as "out" on the actual sensor. The other part of the boundary detection system is the "Motion Stop" buttom. The motion stop button has five terminals labelled as NC, NO, C, L and L(+). More on this later.. With regard to the sensors, all three pairs are 'summed' into one hub. In other words, each pair of sensors comes back to a hub and all lead into a common output of 12V, Ground and Sense which goes to the digital motor control board. Under normal circumstances, the sense wire is 0V DC. But when you block any pair of boundary sensors the sense wire goes to +5DC until the blockage is removed. Now comes my dilemma... When I plug the motion stop button back in using the following approach... ...then when the button is depressed, the "sense" wire goes to -5V DC. The "sense wire" is the Grey and Yellow. +12V is Red and Ground is Red and White. So my dilemma is that surely pressing the motion stop button should do the same thing as when the sensors are block - that is surely it should go to +5V DC, not -5V DC? It would be super if someone who owns this machine could confirm the wiring to the motion stop button. Pretty please! Although I haven't entirely figured this out, the good news is that the boundary sensors now work! When the receivers are blocked, a red LED lights up on the relevant receiver. I also found some other chewed wires too during the process. One step closer to getting the machine to work. The next challenge is that one of the rebuilt motor control boards keeps on blowing the R1 and R2 resistors. R1 and R2 are cement, wire wound 1.2 Ohm, 5W resistors. These boards can be set to either take 100V AC or 200V AC as their input. My test rig only has 100V AC, while the cab has 220V (Mains) AC feeding these boards. From what I can tell, R1 (or) R2 does not fail when used at 100V, but seems to fail when using the 220V AC input. TR1 is usually a M8GZ47 but I have replaced it with a BT138X-600E in both the boards. TR1 was my first suspect, but I'm not sure. TR1 is the same in both boards now, except only R1 and R2 in this one seems to fail and only at 220V input, not 100V input. I am really keen to hear some other opinions from folks who are more expert than I am. I've labelled R1 and R2 in the image below. The board on the left is the one that seems to fail. I haven't pulled R1 and R2 yet to see if one or both of them have failed. I just find it odd that they seem to fail at 220V versus 100V. As you can seem I have replaced these before. I am wondering if the voltage rating of the replacements is not up to spec, despite the fact that they are all labelled as 5W. Keen for thoughts on this one.
  14. Thanks @Rich I've thought of doing what you said but using a product called "pourable silicone". From what I have been told, the process is similar to the above but having the distinct advantage of not damaging the item you are trying to mould. The downside to this approach is that I will need around 10L to 15L of the stuff and that ends up costing around $350 once other materials are factored in. The overall costs is why I am considering the 3D Printing route. I suspect that both routes will be fairly expensive though. I'll take a deeper look at the plater of paris option. Thanks for sharing your experience.
  15. I completed the main phase of painting. There is still some touch-up to go, including dealing with some overspray where my masking hasn't been tip-top. I've intentionally left some of the original paint and decals in place such as on the white section of the wheels and on the rear of the car. I'm 50/50 as to whether I will keep this in place.
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