Jump to content

Berty

Veteran
  • Posts

    2,422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Other groups

Platinum Member

Personal Information

  • State
    Brisvegas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Berty's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/17)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

7k

Reputation

  1. Hi Berty.  I require a manual for Gottlieb Pioneer EM Pinball for a machine that I just purchased.  It was an abandoned restoration in decent condition in a pile of parts, hopefully nothing is missing.  I see you have it on your list of pdf manuals.  Any information on it would be very helpful since I only am familiar with the Williams EM machines.

    Cheers, Neil

  2. At the end of the day it's your cabinet, but I would caution against replacing the CRT with an LCD. Personally, I think that an LCD looks terrible and the aspect ratio changes mean that you get less screen real-estate than a CRT. /my 2c. 🙂
  3. In terms of outputs I think the DC is from 0V to 60V. I am not sure about the amps required as I have only ever spun the motors up on my lab power supply without a load, but I would guess the output could be 10-20 amps. I've tried to keep the prototype as close to stock as possible but there are some parts that are not 100% required. For example, the over-temp circuit on this in present, but it will be bypassed by a switch for now. There is also an over-current detection circuit that is present but may not be effective given the new power MOSFETs. I want to simplify the circuit further in future iterations. For now, it is just about getting it working with the original motor control board.
  4. Terminator 2 Arcade Updates The machine is now up and running with just a few minor bits and pieces let to do. The guns are 90% working. The only issue is that one of the LEDs on the P1 gun does not work. Other than that, I have cleaned the shells, re-sprayed the metal housings and assembled with all new bolt hardware. I'm not happy with the T-Moulding as I ordered 18mm wide and the cab clearly needs 20mm wide. This is on its way and will go on to the machine soon. In terms of the PCB and wiring harness, I had the USA midway version of the wiring harness which is now in the cab. Both the LAI and the Midway version of this machine have the PCBs attached the side of the machine. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to get the whole lot in and out of the cab without needing to do each board separately. I have therefore placed all of the PCBs on one large board and mounted it in the front of the cab. This way, the whole assembly can easily be taken in and out of the cab. Jomac repaired the board for me. With the prices of arcade PCBs, I didn't want to stuff this one up so I sent it to the expert. When I got it back, I had some strange issues which ended up being a slightly corroded EPROM. The really bright light in the image is coming from a DC volt meter that I attach to the JAMMA harnesses in my machines. These are less than $2 each and really handy for quite diagnostics. The eagle-eyed members might also note the creative (and temporary) use of tooth-pics to ensure that the 24V AC feed to the lamp driver board makes good contact. I need to order the proper connector, but this enabled me to test the setup. One of the final touches was to install the lamp boards that sit behind the two-way mirror. The image below isn't from my machine, but gives future restorers knowledge of how they are setup in the cab. This was a really fun X-mas project and ended up turning out really great. I've already had friends over to give it a thrashing and it has gone down a treat. I am hoping to one-day find the original bezel for the machine, so if you have it and want to sell, please send me a message. Apart from some minor tweaks, this cab is now done! Sega G-Loc I'm having a crack at developing a more modern motor power supply board for the cab. The prototype below is fairly close in design to that of the original but the H-Bridge section has been changed quite significantly to address one of the common failure points. In the image below, you can see that the new design only uses four large power mosfets. The original had four PLUS eight large diodes. Many of the other FETs and ICs have been updated with modern equivalents. The image below is of the first version prototype. There were a few bugs with this so revision two is currently in progress. I will need to have the inductors at locations L4 and L5 reproduced as there doesn't seem to be an off the shelf alternative. I will use the original inductors, harvested from parts boards to test the prototypes. @perjmolsen has very kindly sent me two of his re-production L2 transformers for the prototypes. I am hoping to have the physical prototypes in my hands prior to the end of Feb for further testing. More info to come.
  5. Hi mate. Im interested. What sort of monitor and chassis does it have?
  6. Sega G-Loc Project Folks have been asking me about the G-Loc project. After just over a year of ownership, I finally got it to move... Then nothing... So what happened? When that video was taken it had two repaired motor power supplies. One had been fully repaired - i.e. pretty much every component but the second only seemed to require the low voltage and H bridge to be repaired. It was this half repaired motor power supply that ended up failing - not with a bang mind you but would essentially 'brown out' when commanded to turn the motor. Once again, I stripped the motor power supply of its components to test. There were a couple of obvious issues - the main AC Triac was on its last legs. Still technically functional but not returning good results. Secondly, the two large, 200V, 1000uf caps were only returning 600uf and high V-loss values. It seemed that although these parts worked for a couple of weeks, it was all a bit too much and they had given up when under load. That's fair enough as they looked like the 1991 original spec pieces. Replacing the parts was easy and done in a hour or so. For anyone that has tried to trouble shoot these machines you will know that it is a massive pain due to the optical sensor network that goes around the perimeter of the machine and kills all motor movement when triggered. Basically you need to have all the panels back on the machine in order to keep the optical sensor network happy. The downside of this is that you cannot view the motor cages which is handy when you are trying to keep an eye out for magic smoke or other physical signs of damage that help in fault finding. To get around this, I took an optical sender unit of another G-Loc and taped it in a position that satisfied the receiving optical sensor, but still gave me the ability to see what was happening. I also took this opportunity to run a new wire to the DC motor, just in case there was something wrong with the existing wiring that was causing a short. So with everything plugged back in, I fired up the machine again and BANG! I could see a flash coming from the general area of PC10 on the board. Given that I was standing over it at the time it was borderline a brown pants moment. I had caught big AC hits off the machine previously and I wasn't keen to experience it again. I may have screamed. The neighbours could confirm or deny. So what blew up? Once parts were removed it looks like a short between one of the legs on PC10 and the resistor at R75. This looks like the most reasonable suspect as it was near the point of the flash. There is also some obvious secondary damage. I think that the short on PC10 caused Q22 to malfunction and subsequently blow. Q22 is a 2SK1250. These are the usual failure points on these boards. As you can see in the image, some of the burn marks around R81, R80 and ZD10 are all related to previous 2SK1250 explosions. I think what had occoured at R75 was caused by the use of machined IC sockets and too much solder. Although I had gotten a few hours of use out of this board prior, it seemed like the replacement of the caps and triac gave it enough spice to short out. The fix was typical backyarder ingenuity. Some insultation on the resistor and a trace fix on the underside of the board. After many, many more hours of de-soldering and testing, the bastard is back together... again. At the time of writing, I am stepping through the standard checks. I've spotted one issue in the delayed 15V circuit that needs attention and is likely due to a bad cap or Zener Diode but it should be good to go back in to the machine later this week. In related news, I've engaged an expert to re-design this PCB using modern components and more specifically, silicon carbide FETs that run at much lower temps. I am hoping to have more info to share in January. If you own one of these machines or any other machine that uses these boards and would like to be a guinea pig then please let me know. I can't give out proto-types for free as the silicon carbide FETS are expensive, but I can supply any willing volunteers with prototype boards at cost price. Stay tuned.
  7. Up until MAME came about I didn't even realise that there were levels that took place in the present. The gun coils and mounts in this look to be in really good condition so fingers cross they will have a lot of life left in them. I noticed that Marco no longer sells the coils on the brackets but hopefully some bright spark in the collector base comes up with an aftermarket solution.
  8. Terminator 2 Project About a month ago a LAI Terminator 2 cab popped up on FB marketplace. I've been after one of these machines for a few years as it's another childhood machine that I have great memories of. Although the machine was an LAI T2, it had been converted to a Lethal Enforcers setup. Luckily the seller had most of the parts required to convert back to a T2. After some negotiation I bought this turd back to Brisbane... The machine was missing some of the original arts pieces and both of the side decals were in poor condition. Usually I don't mind patina on machines but it was obvious that there was something wrong with the wood on one the right side. After a lot of sanding it became apparent that there had been water damage on side of the machine. It also looked like someone had previously tried to repair it with automotive bog and then just applied blue spray paint to blend the damage in to the decal. I looked terrible and it was clear that the water damage was not completely repaired either. Parts of the veneer were still flaking off the cab and there was a fairly deep - 1- 3mm gully running down the right hand side. The whole side had to be sanded back. Damaged areas needed to be further removed and the side needed to be bogged and filled properly. Sadly, the first coat of paint revealed that more fill work needed to be done, so I waited a week for the paint to dry, then began the process of sanding it back again. I resorted to automotive spray putty and high fill primer for the remaining imperfections. Given my work schedule and the rain that we had here in Brisbane, this work ended up taking a few weeks to complete. Although the delays were annoying, I was still waiting for the side artwork to arrive from Belgium. I ended up purchasing the side art for m-arcade-restore on Ebay. The quality was okay in terms of quality. There are some minor differences between the LAI and the US Midway art. The most notable difference is that the Australian machines have the side art in two pieces - a lower half with the text and an upper half with Arnie. If you look at the first few side images of the machine you can see a red line that seperates the bottom and top half of the side art. The red line is the laminate layer of the side pieces. The other small difference is the Carolco logo is closer to the middle on the Australian machines. One minor gripe I had with this art set is that the monitor bezel art is not reverse printed like the original. I've also noticed that all of the replacement bezel art is not true to the original art in that there is a transparent layer on the original art that has been substituted by hard black on all of the repros that I have seen. The image above is from an eBay listing for an original monitor bezel You can see that the inner most white pieces of art are separate from the blue and red borders by a transparent area. If you look at the image from the side-art that I bought, you can see that this area is filled in with black. For these reasons, I am yet to apply by bezel art. Once the artwork arrived, I gave it a few days to flatten out . During this time I finished the rest of the body work and applied the final coats of red paint. I've had a few people ask about how I paint and what I use. I've got a large air compressor setup with a "Star" branded gun. The gun I use has a large 2mm nozzle on it as I use it Bunnings paints and not automotive paints - mainly oil based enamel. I still need to thin the paints down, but most brands go to a maximum thinning of 10% and not 50% like automotive paints. I've given up on trying to use water based enamel because they are not as hardy and react to direct moisture contact, even years after they have been painted. The first part of the cab to receive the new art is the control panel. This was in pretty average condition BUT it was as hard as nails to remove. I had to use a paint-scraper, heat gun and then isopropyl alcohol before I could sand and fill the imperfections. Once sanded, I applied some satin black enamel to cover the marks left from the sander and remove obvious scratches. I use the dry method to apply decals. Squeegees are absolutely vital to the process. and I was pretty happy with the end result except for the fact the artwork is not 100% aligned. New buttons and t-moulding were also applied. To do the side art, I removed all of the carriage bolts and sanded and painted them in satin black enamel. I then proceeded to very gently apply the side art on both sides using the dry method. I ended up getting few wrinkles in one of the sides that couldn't be redeemed but they will eventually turn into scratches as the machine gets used more and more. More updates to come!
  9. No worries. I am after bits for the moving one which are proving to be hard to find without needing to buy a whole new machine. GLWS.
  10. AA'ers. I have a working Sammy Zombie Raid arcade PCB for sale. It's clean and working. This is a horror themed light-gun game by Sammy which uses X/Y analogue controls (Think Terminator 2). I've tested via my JAMMA test harness, but it also needs the same gun PCB as T2 to work fully. Asking $150 AUD - Pickup from Rocklea QLD or post at your expense.
  11. I'm doing a partial resto on a T2 Arcade machine. The machine doesn't have the artwork that goes on the glass so I ordered a reproduction decal. Now that the decal has arrived, it looks like it needs to be stuck onto the front of the glass. I thought this art would have gone behind the glass on a LAI machine so I wanted to check. So, does the artwork go on the front or behind the glass on an original LAI cab?
  12. As per the title, I want some arcade pushbuttons with 17mm mounting holes and a screw-type mounting. Does anyone who any suppliers / model numbers for buttons that meet this specification?
  13. Megalo 410 with LCD Screen for sale. *this is on hold until Sunday PM* Condition - cab was gutted when I got it and missing pretty much all internal parts. I since sourced the vast majority of the guts of a Megalo 410 and re-installed it to resemble what the original machine's layout would have been. Internally it has the original Megalo 410 power supply that can handle JAMMA level volume as well as sound over line level. There is the original wiring I/O that is the same as a Blast City and there is the Sega RGB amplifier board. In addition to these standard boards, there is a 31K Upscaler board that you can also use by shifting the DB15 plug out of the Sega RGB amplifier and in to the Upscaler. The screen is a Samsung LCD that automatically powers-up when the cab is switched on. Picture quality is nice but is 16:9 not 4:3, hence the black cardboard border around it. I've installed some new speaker cones to the blast city housings, although these don't fit 100%, you cannot notice from the outside of the cab. The machine also had some pain-work done as well as brand new Sanwa buttons and sticks. I also converted the original 2L8B control panel to 2L12B. Internal wiring is a bit messy but there is a ChAMMA adapter going in to the Pandora's box 6 which comes with the machine. There is no coin mech hardware, nor locking tabs for the control panel. Locks have been installed in the other panels though. Missing a few screws here and there but cosmetically a nice cab that lends itself nicely to modern 16:9, HD games. Plug and play and converted to 240V. I'm only selling because it doesn't seem to get any love when I have folks over. I also don't like the fact that it's not 4:3 and have lost interest in pursuing the projector solution for it. $1500 Australian Rubles. Although this is on hold until Sunday, happy for folks to take a look and lowball me in the meantime.
×
×
  • Create New...