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Ond

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Ond last won the day on September 9

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  1. For anyone interested I 'plugged in' my YouTube channel today i.e. content is now public instead of unlisted. A few videos, all of them arcade related (for now). I'll be adding lots of new content, particularly in the New Year as some other projects I have in the queue ramp up. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2cpUdz2rxxhfn9QiwqrU8g Cheers Ond
  2. The outer magnets don't attach to anything (just trigger reed switches) so no force there of any concern. The inner steel plate will have some force on it, but really not that much. It is a prototype though so will be tested rigorously!
  3. I really appreciate the interest in the build, thanks! I decided to to a video of the work, it shows my approach to making stuff from MDF and surface finishing. Enjoy! Here are some build pics also: Switching magnets in their potential positions in the PAC. They sit just under flush with the surface. The steel washer will adhere to a strong rare earth magnet of the side panel of the cabinet. Everything gets hidden under a thin surface finish. ready for the next few coats of primer... Next I'll build the cabinet side of the PAC system which includes reed switches and mounting magnet.
  4. Ok, this was kind of important, getting the perfect list (for me) of 15 games for this machine. I originally mentioned 16 games but I need the '0000' number for control purposes, so 15 it is. A mix of mainly golden age classics, all which have cocktail flipping enabled (I think). 1. Pac-Man 2. Pac-Man Plus 3. Ms. Pac-Man 4. Jr. Pac-Man 5. Pac-Mania 6. Frogger 7. Donkey Kong 8. Galaga 9. Burger Time 10. Dig Dug 11. Nibbler 12. Flying Shark 13. Aero Fighters 14. 19XX The War Against Destiny 15. 1943 The Battle of Midway
  5. Sorry Jenn, I'm being naughty...that Terminator style Pac-Man has nothing to do with this cab. The actual PAC will just be the simple disc in the video above (or the picture with labels). I drew the Terminator Pac-Man on a whim ha hah.
  6. Just cos I felt like it.....my take on Pac-Man terminator style 😋
  7. Relays sure are useful especially in this project, there are in fact three which switch various things when the system powers up, these are the TV, the TV Menu and the +power line in the USB cable to Arduino. Together they work with Arduino code to make sure everything syncs. A picture is worth a thousand words....so here's a pic and a render video to show the PAC game selection switching design: There will be 16 15 of these sitting in a little display stand to choose a game from. Magnets are embedded in the PAC to trigger reed switches in the mount panel. There is also a small metal plate embedded in each PAC which sticks to an embedded rare earth magnet in the mount plate. The PAC will attach in place around a small wedge shape which fits the 'mouth' of the PAC. The power button powers everything up or down. To switch to another game at any time, just change one PAC for another. No menu, no exit button. That's the theory anyway 😆
  8. Thanks! I tried to design it with attractive proportions. Let's begin on the control panel construction for this cab. The panels are all cut as per the cutting plan dimensions using the methods I've already covered for straight cuts. The end panels are 3/4" thick whilst the rest are 1/2" thick MDF. We're going to round off some of the corners and edges on these panels to give the CP it's distinctive look. This is a good spot to talk about cutting templates used with flush trim router bits. When I want to cut shapes out of MDF, holes for buttons and controls etc. my favorite approach is to use thinner MDF (or other materials) and form a cutting template to do this. A router really comes into it's element when used in this way with a guide template. A thinner sheet of MDF is much easier to form and shape than a thick piece. You can refine it with sandpaper and then use it multiple times to produce exactly matching panels. In this case we want to just round off the corners on the CP End panels. Now this might seem like a lot of effort just to round off some corners. How much easier to just clamp them together and take say a belt sander to them? You could use that method and also get a pretty good result depending on how handy you are with a mechanical sander. BUT, (there's always a but) in this case we want to wrap t-molding around these end pieces, if our rounding off effort isn't nice and square to the panel surface the t-molding is going to look less than awesome. Using a guide template we'll get rounded corners looking all the same and nice and clean. Pencil trace around one of the CP End panels onto some scrap 1/4" thick MDF. Rough cut it out with a jigsaw, Then take your router and with a flush trim bit cut around the panel to produce a duplicate shape in the thinner material. Next take a compass (pair of compasses, not the magnetic kind ) and draw four arcs with a radius of 20/32" at each corner as I've shown below. It's OK to use a sander or a Dremel or a sanding block, whatever you've got handy, to sand around these curves until you have four matching rounded corners. We only need an edge for the bearing on the flush trim bit to trace around. Next clamp the template and a CP End panel together on your bench or a table and carefully route around the template adjusting the clamp and pieces as you go. Repeat with the other end panel. This can be a bit challenging as there isn't much surface area for the router base to sit on, if in doubt, practice a few times on some scrap pieces first. Also, note I've shown a diagram where the template sits on top of the piece being cut and using a top bearing flush trim bit. You could use a flush trim bit with a the bearing at the bottom and instead place the template underneath the piece being cut, this would provide more stability as the bearing runs along the template. Finally we want to round off the edges of the CP Top panel and one edge only of the Bottom panel as shown below. Next up we'll cut the holes and rebates for the buttons, trackball and joysticks into the CP top panel and then assemble the CP onto the cab. Before assembling the CP parts the additional front panel should be attached to the cab. Using two brace pieces matched to the length of the front panel, screw/ glue them on either side of the coin panel cut out. Attach the decorative panel by driving screws from the outside of the cab through the (remember to countersink the screw holes) panel and the brace pieces. Using the Visio CP cutting and rebating diagram below, cut out the holes for buttons, joysticks and trackball. As I've mentioned before, my preferred method is to make a template from thin MDF first. Some people just print out the template, stick that onto MDF and then drill out each hole. Thin MDF is much easier to work with to get clean edges around button holes etc. Once you have the template, use a flush trim bit and router to cut the actual CP panel out. Again using the CP rebating guide diagram, route out the rebates for the joysticks and trackball. These controls will be mounted to the CP from the underside of the panel. Counter sunk machine screws embedded into the CP panel will hold them in place. The CP back panel will need two rectangular holes cut out to allow fitting of controls and wiring. Note the three holes for mounting bolts through this panel and through the CP backing plate already fitted to the cab. Use brace pieces inside the CP along the panel joins as shown. Glue and screw panels together in the same way we’ve been joining other panels on the cab. Any counter sunk screws will be filled over prior to vinyl wrapping the CP. The CP backing plate will also need two rectangular holes cut out to allow wiring to pass through to the CP. The CP is angled at 5 degrees. Using a sander or a rasp angle the edges of the CP Back and Front Panels (and the brace pieces) so that the CP top Panel sits flush at a 5 degree tilt. Mark and drill the holes for the screws to mount the joysticks & trackball then glue and screw down the CP Top Panel and the End Panels, making use of the brace pieces to screw into where available. Here I'm showing the CP bolted to the cab using the three bolt holes (with the CP top removed for clarity). Here is the view of the CP bolted into place from inside the cab. Here's a slightly more realistic render to show what the assembled cab should look like so far. The width of the CP could be reduced if you prefer less overhang at the sides of the cab. ...and here's an actual build on it's way based on these build instructions:
  9. Yes indeed, Pixelhugger's Mission Control.
  10. My little spot. It's all I've ever needed. I built a frame/stud wall in part of my garage, plaster boarded it and put up a peg board. The workbench I made some 10 years ago from oak. It moves house when I do. A few years back I visited a friend in LA, he gave me a giant back of tokens and spare part from his amazing arcade machine.
  11. The bezel is cut as per the cutting plan dimensions. Using a 45 degree chamfering bit the inside edges of the bezel can be edged to match the LCD screen nicely. An alternative could also be a curved or rolled over inner edge using an appropriate bit. The next step will need to be customised to whatever wide screen 23” LCD you obtain. The casing edge around each brand may vary in width. Lay the LCD Screen face down on the rear of the bezel, use a set square to square it up with the cut out or (being careful) use a clamp with rubber pad or cloth and clamp the monitor in place checking its centered on the cut-out as you do. Then trace around the edge of it with a pencil. Use the pencil mark as guide for the rebate width. A snug fit is desirable but not essential. We’ll be using some small bent aluminum strips to secure the monitor into place down the track. Having edged and rebated the bezel we can now work the next few steps. They are in a numbered order because each component basically provides the positioning reference for the piece that follows it. Step 1 Fix the CP Back Panel using support braces as shown. No exact measurements needed here for braces just make them as suggested in the diagram. The CP Back Panel should sit flush with the edge of each side panel. Step 2 Screw & glue support braces onto the rear of the bezel as shown. (Drive the screws in from the side you prefer). Using the top of the CP Back Panel as reference and the edges of the cab sides fix the bezel into position as indicated. The top of the CP Rear Panel will become a resting place for the bezel glass later on. Step 3 Next fit the lower Marquee Panel into place using the top of the bezel as reference. The angle of this panel is not super important but it will determine the height of the marquee later on. Next we’ll get started on the CP.
  12. I spent the last few days getting the game switching rig working with my CRT. I don't want any visible signs of an operating system and everything has to synchronize nicely for a clean power up and game select. This means tweaking the Arduino code and the Operating system, testing and repeating. Until the cabinet is ready to properly seat the CRT with all its boards and the PC etc. I'll make use of the TV case to test the CRT for now. A bit of disassembly and reassembly required if I want to work on components tucked in under the tube. I'm getting quicker at the pull-down every time! Soldering some control cable to the button board - to allow the Arduino to switch AV modes after boot-up. Solder a relay in across the main switch - allowing the CRT to turn on when the PC boots. Refitted into the TV case before refitting the main board: The various boards that make up the switching assembly so far (this will probably grow!): A quick n dirty video to show the switching working.....yay! 😁 Next up, completing the proof of concept using Pacs and reed switches.
  13. Thanks, yeah I didn't trust the plug style headers on the Arduino and as you can see I removed them. I may ultimately remove the remaining wiring plugs and just solder them directly to the boards once testing is done. Cheers.
  14. 😄 Thanks Jenn, keep watching, I'll put some effort into detailing how this works. Thanks for the interest! There's a bit of complexity to this but the end result: being able to switch games just using attachable Pacs is the goal. The Arduino does a number of things, the only input it has to the Keywiz is to toggle the Escape key when a Pac is removed from the machine (ending the current game). The Arduino sends input to a batch file on the PC when it senses different '4 bit' combos (using switches). For instance 0001 ends up sending the character 'a' to the batch file which in turn runs the game 19xx the War Against Destiny. The machine will always boot to Pac-Man original but swapping a Pac out with another will instantly change games. Each Pac will be embedded with between 1 - 5 magnets, reed switches on the machine will close according to the pattern of magnets, which the Arduino senses etc. The Arduino also switches AV modes on the TV unit I'm using, the sequence goes: 1. Power on PC 2. Power on TV via 12v relay from PC PS 3. Power on Arduino via 5v from PC PS 4. PC Boots to Batch file and runs default game. 5. Arduino sends button presses to TV via NPN transistor to set AV mode, this is cool because I can time the sequence to switch after Windows has finished booting, the user experience is that they only see the TV switch on and begin running Pac-Man i.e. no visible OS at all. 6. Arduino waits for a Pac to be changed and runs the game for that Pac. The Keywiz, other than taking input from the Arduino for the Escape key, will function as normal for the control set. The same power on button powers off the system. The player experience is really simple, in fact you can switch games faster than browsing a menu. The cabinet feels more "old school" if you know what I mean, which I like! I'm the workshop today working on this. Today I'm working on the switching circuit for the TVs AV mode. Here's a pic of the boards and wiring tidied and mounted on acrylic sheet. The switches on the board I made are only for testing. Reed switches and magnets will provide the actual input in production. If I get the time I will post a video of testing the system thus far, the game switching already works fine and looks simple in action.
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