daisy

Thanks Manny

Ok now the dot matrix has failed. It was replaced not too long ago. Think I will find someone to come and look at it. Can anyone recommend anyone in Sydney ?

Hey Manny, yeah, I have taken the board off and realised that I had read the labels wrong. what voltages should be on those lead - the J9/ 4 and 5 ? And thanks very much for the schematic - I diDnt hav e that one. So far the board looks good. I’ll check it properly with your schematic.

Hey Manny, thanks for all that. Yep, found the fuse list in my book and have replaced it. I have tested the switch and it works fine. It has worked perfectly in the past too so I think it’s something in the solder or wires that has deteriorated while it sat dormant. I will remove the little board up the front and test the connectors there first. The wire connected to GND is definitely not getting GnD so problem there somewhere. ‘Thanks again, I’ll let you know.

Good info. so essentially my machine has no voltage protection. I have included some pics of the wiring around the door. I can see the black and yellow and red and white heavy gauge wires, but they are not damaged or bypassed and look as if they have never been run down to a switch on the door. Still have questions about the wires I do have. What was the purpose of a mem protect switch ? Why did it, in the past when it was working, trigger the door open message ? What might have happened to make both wires now have voltage ? Did any STTNG games miss out on the second switch ? What fuse is in F103 so I can replace it. cheers everyone !

Everyone, thanks for the answers. I’ll try to fill in some of the blanks. Firstly, my wiring diagram shows the interlock switch as being 2 switches - 1 for 20v and 1 for 50v - with 4 wires, 2 red and white and 2 black and yellow. My switch only has 2 wires, white and red, and green and red, both of which have positive power ?? In the past my switch worked fine. I could test it in the menu and manually activate it with the correct response. ocyen - in test mode the switch registers as open and activating the switch has no effect. The plugs under the battery holders are all pretty good but 1 and have included some pics. Both sides of the connector are in good shape and the pins are too, both affected tested ok. Voltages on the power board - TP2 (5v) 4.85v, TP3 (12v) 11.9v, TP6 (50v) 79.0v, TP7 (20v) 23.3v and TP8 (18v) 19.3v. boots - both J209 and J210 both look fine and as a test, the coin door registers as open with J209 unplugged. gemini - the coin message is displayed when activated the whole time on my dot matrix, so playing the game becomes hard. sonny - I don’t know which connector you are referring to but they all look good. Bypassing the switch has no effect. mario - my door switch does not have wires to the transformer, they both go to a board on the inside of the side wall and are marked as mem protect and an earth. See the pics I have included. manny - my machine only has 1 switch with 2 throws. Only one is connected. See the pics. In the past, before all this, with the door open the message said that high voltage playfield things had been shut down, but they never were - flippers still worked even with the door open. For everyone - the 2 wires that are connected to my door switch plug to a board and their pins are labelled as mem protect and gnd. Bit concerned that the 1 marked as gnd actually has 13v on it, just like the other. I have checked and the pins are not connected together, but the gnd does not connect to the dedicated gnd wire for this board. Might need to take it off and have a better look at it. It has a lot of plugs on it for switches and buttons. I don’t have any other switches or wires. I have also noticed that the fuse at F103 is blown. Anyone know what I need to replace it ? It only has 230v marked. I have been playing with J210. Might this have blown it ? ‘Thanks a lot to everyone. Feel like I’m at least getting into the problem. ‘daisy

If I could just bypass it I would Steve, but for some reason the machine is see the switch both open and closed even with it bypassed. The 13 volts on both wires leading to the switch is proving hard to resolve.

Hi everyone, thanks for the answers. I will have a look and let you know. Cheers

Hi everyone My Star Trek Next Gen machine has been sitting dormant for a couple of years now and on firing it up again it has developed a problem. The interlock switch, that shuts off high voltage things with the coin door open, does not work now as advertised. With the door open it doesn’t activate and switching the switch has no effect. The switch itself tests fine, however I have 13 volts on both of the wires connected to it ?? During game play the game triggers a door open warning randomly and once the ball is lost the warning vanishes, however the machine takes extra time to recognise that the ball has drained. I have had power issues with this machine in the past. When I first got it it would reset over and over and this was resolved with some new caps and bridge rectifiers. It has again started to reset again with high power drains like all flippers activated at the same time, however, these resets have stopped but been replaced by the coin door issue. Any help ? Cheers