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  • Machines in your collection
    Only one machine atm but I bet I end up with four I don't know the name of the cabinet it has wood veneer, not the stick on vinyl and has had street fighter 2 champion edition in it for 20 years

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  1. I picked up a BeoVision Avant 32 DVD TV for $10 and it works well picture wise but the screen has a pinch on the left and right side inwards, do these TV's have a dial on the chassis to correct this or does this sound more like a capacitor replacement?
  2. Well I got the whole picture printed on photo paper as a test and installed it with buttons and joysticks and I gota say, it's too much, too many things so I will get rid of the flames and try a nice simple line.
  3. I have used Inkscape to plot where the holes and joystick jackets are and the outer circle of the buttons and I found a picture from google pictures of red and blue fire for the main picture which I edited to have stronger red and blue and removed some white-ish dots but I don't know if its copy righted to use here and I was hoping for some feedback of the end result, where on the net is a good place to find or buy red and blue fire pictures as it will go with the theme of Double Dragon for my cabinet. I'll be sending this off to Noodle Shirt unless I find a nicer red and blue fire picture.
  4. Thanks autosteve I removed the neckboard by removing the silicone and I cleaned the years of dust inside, I used a tool to discharge the tube for safety and now that it's back together and working I hear a static pop from something like the sound when you short a capacitor with a metal screw driver is this normal for a while or could it be the earth wires are too close to hi voltage wires (flyback) causing a crossover I doubt this as there is no interference or screen picture distortion before during or after the pop sound I'll take a shot of the internals later
  5. I have a Samsung TV I'm hesitant trying to remove the neckboard as it has a dob of silicone in the middle of where the pins are on the solder side I'm not sure if I have to remove this silicone first or does it gently wiggle off, it's the first time it's been opened and looked at so maybe it's a tight fit I've given it a wiggle and gentle pull but I stopped in fear of breaking it
  6. That's what I'm looking for thanks Boots
  7. I won't be installing the A.C line filter but my electrician will I saw a video about types of filters, differential and common mode what is best for arcade machines, my build has an arcade CRT, 240v power supply +5v +12v -5v, 100v or 110v stepdown transformer and an arcade pcb. Im asking here first because in my small town my electrician is trying to retire and it will be easier for him to visit me if I buy the filter ready to install.
  8. I'm going to buy a vinyl stick on wrap for my control panel from Noodleshirt I have to send Carson my design dimensions for where the holes are and the pictures I want to use so I need to know of free programs to use that can have real measurements drawn in as a schematic, I don't mind if the program is complicated like the way back version of DanCad on a pentium 266MHz, I was a kid back then but I'm saying I've used Blender 3D which has real dimension modelling but ide like to read what members here use
  9. I've made my control panel with pine wood and I'm starting to notice how easy it is to bump it and make a deep mark so I would like to fix this using a vinyl wrap with custom graphics and have it no more than 1mm thick, can vinyl on its own be sturdy enough to stop marks
  10. Thanks Boots I'll use liquid nails, have you come across cabinets that were built and then rebuilt mine looks like it's been redone a few times with the last build done with a piss poor effort do you know what my cabinet was originally from the picture
  11. I'm not sure if the cabinet as it is now, is glued or not but I was hoping to avoid glue if I needed to change something in the future unless its possible to remove the parts without ripping away the veneer with it can that be done?
  12. I have two screw types that I need help with to know which is best to use with 16mm MDF for my woodie cabinet, the MDF has veneer on both sides and is 16mm thick total, the two screws I have are: the left one is a 32mm pine wood screw with less ridges and the right one is 30mm with a bigger head and more ridges that I got from a kitchen manufacturer he said that is what they use for their MDF, the screws are going through 19mm hardwood with the holes honed and countersunk and I'm aiming to drive the screws 12 to 13mm into the MDF, the hardwood will be support rails for under the controll panel and to support the weight of the CRT monitor. I could grind down the tips by 2mm or more if this would help have more thread grip but I need advice on this too, I won't be glueing the wood with the screws. Should the MDF be pre-drilled or drive the screws straight in.
  13. Thanks all, they were soldered on so I'm making it better without soldering again so I don't have to remove the board with a female socket that goes to the CRT gun but wiredoug the link is for parallel I need the first pin to be 7.5mm from the second pin then 5mm for the rest but thank you. I will ask Joey or MarkOZLAD
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