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Apprentice (3/17)

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  1. Yep, exactly that. The collisions function as normal but the on-screen timer keeps starting again at 90 secs after it counts down to zero. I think you may be right tho. There’s a small separate pcb with only one pot on it and it’s damaged. I’ll start with that. Thanks taito!
  2. I’ve managed to get my Taito TT Speed Race Color cocktail sort of running. However, the counter counts down to zero then resets from 90, meaning the game never ends. After a collision, the car restarts and the score keeps climbing. Would anyone know where the dip switches are? There are numerous pots on the board that I suspect are the dip switches, but it thought I’d ask before twiddling with them. Oh, there are also two slide-switches on the main board too. One makes the car invincible, and the other seems to do nothing. As always, I am grateful for any advice. Here’s a pic of the pots on the board.
  3. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-tempid":"temp_160322_1606176785277_925"}[/ATTACH]​ Jagged it! I replaced the tube with a similar one and it’s working. Didn’t have much hope cos I was sure it was the chassis. It was the tube after all. Looking closely at the windings on the yoke, I could see the horizontal wire was snapped.
  4. I recently posted about wanting a replacement chassis for a 14� arcade monitor, but I thought I would have a last-ditch attempt at fixing the old one. Still no luck, but I’m hoping for some advice here. The monitor looks like a vertical collapse. There is a sharp white line down the monitor 90 degrees to the anode cup. I removed and tested the transistors that I assume control vertical deflection and they’re ok. I tested the resistors around the area of the vertical transistors and all good. There’s a separate board that has most of the adjustment pots that’s full of transistors but I haven’t touched that. The solder joints and tracks look ok, but I was going to re-solder as much as I can. I’ve included some photos of the chassis, the pot board and the transistor board. Any advice or comment is greatly appreciated.
  5. Hi again John. The board outputs RGBS, but I’m running it thru one of those Highway boards that converts the signal to composite output.
  6. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-tempid":"temp_159805_1604717110181_243"}[/ATTACH]​ Thanks again for your advice John. I see what you mean about the yellow wire, but it’s in the socket, it’s just the Low-res photo. Maybe it is the vertical transistors after all. It’s just that swapping them out is going to be a pain. I got to desolder the jumper board and prise the transistors off the thermal adhesive. I think I should follow your advice and send it to Jomac. Here’s a better pic.
  7. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-tempid":"temp_159791_1604698023466_182"}[/ATTACH]​ ​​​​​​​Thanks for your reply John. I’m a complete novice at chassis diagnostics, but I’ll describe the problem as best I can. I presume it’s a vertical collapse, the line is running 90 degrees to the anode. It’s a sharp bright white line that can be changed to blue by tweaking some pots. I tested the transistor that I thought controls vertical and it seemed ok although I’m new to that too and followed a tutorial. I bought new transistors but the old ones are attached to a separate board and look to be really hard to replace without stuffing up. So, I thought a replacement monitor/ chassis might be the easier option. Oh, here’s a couple of pics running the game thru a tv and one of that pesky transistor board.
  8. I'm trying to repair an old Taito TT Race Color cocktail with a collapsed screen. I'm in need of a 14 inch RGB monitor and chassis with single sync. Happy to pay fair asking price for one within reasonable driving distance from Berowra, Sydney. Thanks everyone
  9. Hi, Im Andrew. I love all things arcade and pinball, especially cocktail tables from the late 70's til 83.
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