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  1. These modules have also been used successfully in the JMP Z80 double stack repro pod. They will fit a fluke pod double stack as well which normally has them soldered in. I will check in my Fluke pod so see if there is clearance on the pcb stack to fit them using a socket. For anyone that does not want to spent the time to solder up a set (they are surface mount components), I can also supply them assembled and tested.
  2. Most modern electronics is ok to get 'wet' while not powered. The one part mentioned that I have not dealt with when I was doing it was onboard pots. The issue would be more around the cleaning agent. If the cleaning fluid is ok then they could always be relubed or even removed before immersion cleaning and refitted afterwards Important part of immersion cleaning is to make sure it is dry before powering on. That is why we both mentioned the rinsing and drying parts. Don't go all out the first time you give it a try, start with a very light cleaning solution and progressively longer soak times (with ultrasonic and heating on).
  3. Places that used them regularly are high volume (for us) and setup appropriately. They would usually go into a cleansing bath rinse after the ultrasonic in a sealed container with an IPA sort of solution and then after a short rest in free air into a drying oven lowish temp to evaporate any remaining moisture. After another short rest assembled back into unit and powered up for final testing.
  4. I don't have one at the moment, used to (on the long shopping list as I build my workshop back up again slowly). They are great for pcb cleaning, used to use one back in pc motherboard repair days. Problem is arcade pcb's are quite large and most single board games will not fit most regular ultrasonic tanks. Solution depends on what you are trying to achieve, from tidy up cleaning flux on a repaired pcb to doing an initial clean on corrosion and other buildup on an incoming pcb.
  5. Here are pics of the set of 5 PCB's if you want to source your own parts or get a kit of all parts and assemble them yourself. PM me if you are interested.
  6. Here are the first set of NOPs I will be making available (6502, 6800, 6809E and Z80). You can get just the PCB's, a set of all parts needed or a set assembled and tested. Microprocessors not included. PM me if interested. Still need to test them with a signature analyzer before releasing but all meter, scope and basic NOP testing has gone well. I have assembled the 6809, 8080 and 8085's, waiting for micros to arrive so I can test them. Then I will look at making up 8088, Z8002 and 68000 if not too hard to do. That is all I have planned for now unless someone suggests another useful one for arcade repair.
  7. I have made up some Fluke 9010a Pod Protection Modules for my Marian Z80 and 6502/6800 reproduction pods. They will fit any pod unit if the correct resister values are fitted. Here is one of them assembled. And here is a set loaded into my Z80 pod. If you are assembling a repro or repairing a pod with faulty modules I have these available as a set of 5 bare boards, a kit of 5 board and parts or 5 assembled and tested modules.
  8. And here are short clips of the 6502 and 6800 running on the 8bit-museum NOP generators.
  9. Made some progress with assembling and testing the 6502, 6800 and 6809E NOP modules. Here they are assembled.
  10. I am making some NOP's because I want some NOPs now that I am building back up my workshop to repair video games again. Here are some pics of one being assembled. My aim was to keep them simple but useful. I tried to come up with a standard connector for the SIG side that I can do on other NOP's. I have used GND, 2xhigh order address bit, CAT Sig Clock signal, Other Sig Clock signal (if present), Reset and 5V. Connections explained on the back. I added LED's to what is used for start/stop, clock and reset. Great for simple troubleshooting. A red LED is on while RESET is active and then the others (blue) show cpu activity on RD and A15. I thought these would be a nice additions to show a stuck reset, possibly watchdog barking and the others for cpu activity. There are pins for gnd, clock, start/stop with a signature analyzer while using the NOP module, another pin for 5V to easily connect a logic probe and reset. I left a pin gap so you can even make up a polarized connector if you want to go all out. Kept small to make easy access to work around the cpu. I am not sure if we can post videos, here is a link to a Clip of Z80 NOP with LEDs running. There will be more with the same connector and LED's for Z80, 6502, 6800, 8080, 8085, 6809 and 6809E. Once I get all these sorted I will look at the 68000, Z8002 and 8088. Comments and suggestions welcomed.
  11. Do you know what it came out of originally when you got it, might be helpful ?
  12. Trying to determine the chip type in circuit will not work. The ic is not in isolation with connections to pullups. caps and other components that will trip up the chip identifier. You are not able to power up just the chip as the power rail is common and the chip identifier will be trying to power the while unit (which it cannot). If you tried to do it with power applied (and the chip identifier does not blow up) the other chips are powered up they will be driving the pins on the chip you are trying to determine preventing the chip identifier from being able to test the chip pins to identify the type of ic.
  13. Here are the pics of the harness I am working on. It has been modified, so some connectors are not pinned correctly for TMNT yet. It is removed from the cabinet so I can make the changes and repairs conveniently. The only connector picture missing is the harness 2 pin connector going to the speakers. Edit: I will post pics of the repaired harness.
  14. Does that mean your CN3 and CN4 plugs are hard wired into the harness (with the coin and service pins on each one)? I am missing all that part (from the 'modifications' done from a failed conversion attempt). I assumed they were like adapter cables that went from the PCB connectors to some other connectors and could be unplugged from the main harness and stay with the game PCB if needed, or even more forward thinking allow a conversion with (in theory) just the changing of the adapter cables. I tend to agree with you there. My front door connectors (not mine but the unit I am working on) look to be wired with the same colour wires and pinout as yours. The one difference I can see is I have a 12, 9 and 4 pin connector at the coin door while yours looks like a 12, 9 and 3 pin connector. Just to clarify the end to end wiring is not a problem for me, I think I have a handle on all that and all the info needed. What I don't have is the intermediate connection points. I am trying to put it back as correctly and closely as I can to original (and will make the credit board edge connector changes for an MK4). Thanks so much for all the info you provided it has helped a lot.
  15. Thanks so much for that. Interestingly those colour codes match my main harness except your yellow is yellow/white on mine. The colours and pin connections also match my control panel connectors except the function do not match (left/right/up/down/jump/attack), which is all ok, I am guessing something was rewired somewhere along the way on one or both of our cabinets to change the control panel assignments. That great information raises a question, I thought the coin (P1) and service connection (P11) on CN3/CN4 would also go to that 9 pin connector. Do you know where those 2 wires on CN3 and CN4 go to?
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