Jump to content

Azure

Members
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • State
    NSW

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Azure's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (4/17)

  • One Year In
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Dedicated Rare

Recent Badges

1.1k

Reputation

  1. Thanks very much, they are a tremendous help.
  2. @kaneIf you can post some pics of the pcb Player 3&4 connectors (to see the wires), the connectors they go to (again to see the wires) and the credit board edge connector wires that would be greatly appreciated to help get an LAI cabinet back to original wiring. If you can also write the number or post a pic of the CRT number that would be great. The one I am working on is missing the manufacturing info and that would be handy if I need to connect up a crt checker/rejuvenator.
  3. Thanks, here is a link to a thread I posted in some time back with pics of the harness I am working on. If you could take some pics and post them there it would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I have and several posts are from me with info I was able to share. There is no information I have been able to find after hours of searching on the actual original LAI TMNT harness wiring (which is not the same harness wiring as the konami version where the connectors, wire colours and connector wiring are different as well as the credit arrangement) . The reason for asking @kane was this seems like an original machine and it would be great if he could help us by posting the requested pics before he sells it.
  5. Nice machine. If it is not too much trouble I could really use a couple of pics for the LAI TMNT I am trying to restore to original wiring that was 'modified' poorly. Close up of credit board connector wires, pcb player 3&4 connector wires and the connector they connect to (control panel plug wires). Also would be great to know the picture tube number as the one I am working on is totally missing. Many thanks, hope you are able to assist and that the sale goes well.
  6. Progress update. I purchased a faulty HP 5004A at the start of September to fix and then use to test the NOP modules are functioning properly for signature analysis. It went into hibernation somewhere despite paying express international shipping (no thanks to USPS). It finally arrived a few days ago and I have fixed it. That means I can get onto testing the NOP modules are working properly. Did a very quick test on the 6502 and Cat and HP address bus signatures are all correct (depending on the clock/2 or clock pin jumper used respectively). Also did a quick test on the Z80 module and get correct address signatures. Will do more thorough testing and also of other modules by the end of next week and if they are ok I should then be able to make them available. The LED on the reset pin gives a great reminder if you have not disabled watchdog reset on the pcb being worked on.
  7. You do not need a 500w stepdown. Depending on what you are running off the stepdown voltage (monitor size/type, marquee lamp, fan, game board psu, etc) will determine the size (wattage) needed. Also when referring to it as step-down you should write 240 - 110 (or whatever secondary voltage you are using), 120- 240v is referred to as a step-up transformer. While they may be the same it is better to learn to use the correct terminology (primary - secondary order). A word of caution some monitors are fussy about the supplied voltage and others not so much. So depending on the actual monitor chassis they are usually 100v, 110v or 120v and if it is one of the fussy ones bad things can happen if the supplied voltage is incorrect. It would normally be mounted and wired into the cabinet as a bare transformer if the person doing the conversion has the skills and tools. Less experienced people may just use a commercial stepdown transformer in a case with a US socket and plug their machine into that, either mounted inside the cabinet or even run it externally since they are in a case.
  8. These modules have also been used successfully in the JMP Z80 double stack repro pod. They will fit a fluke pod double stack as well which normally has them soldered in. I will check in my Fluke pod so see if there is clearance on the pcb stack to fit them using a socket. For anyone that does not want to spent the time to solder up a set (they are surface mount components), I can also supply them assembled and tested.
  9. Most modern electronics is ok to get 'wet' while not powered. The one part mentioned that I have not dealt with when I was doing it was onboard pots. The issue would be more around the cleaning agent. If the cleaning fluid is ok then they could always be relubed or even removed before immersion cleaning and refitted afterwards Important part of immersion cleaning is to make sure it is dry before powering on. That is why we both mentioned the rinsing and drying parts. Don't go all out the first time you give it a try, start with a very light cleaning solution and progressively longer soak times (with ultrasonic and heating on).
  10. Places that used them regularly are high volume (for us) and setup appropriately. They would usually go into a cleansing bath rinse after the ultrasonic in a sealed container with an IPA sort of solution and then after a short rest in free air into a drying oven lowish temp to evaporate any remaining moisture. After another short rest assembled back into unit and powered up for final testing.
  11. I don't have one at the moment, used to (on the long shopping list as I build my workshop back up again slowly). They are great for pcb cleaning, used to use one back in pc motherboard repair days. Problem is arcade pcb's are quite large and most single board games will not fit most regular ultrasonic tanks. Solution depends on what you are trying to achieve, from tidy up cleaning flux on a repaired pcb to doing an initial clean on corrosion and other buildup on an incoming pcb.
  12. Here are pics of the set of 5 PCB's if you want to source your own parts or get a kit of all parts and assemble them yourself. PM me if you are interested.
  13. Here are the first set of NOPs I will be making available (6502, 6800, 6809E and Z80). You can get just the PCB's, a set of all parts needed or a set assembled and tested. Microprocessors not included. PM me if interested. Still need to test them with a signature analyzer before releasing but all meter, scope and basic NOP testing has gone well. I have assembled the 6809, 8080 and 8085's, waiting for micros to arrive so I can test them. Then I will look at making up 8088, Z8002 and 68000 if not too hard to do. That is all I have planned for now unless someone suggests another useful one for arcade repair.
  14. I have made up some Fluke 9010a Pod Protection Modules for my Marian Z80 and 6502/6800 reproduction pods. They will fit any pod unit if the correct resister values are fitted. Here is one of them assembled. And here is a set loaded into my Z80 pod. If you are assembling a repro or repairing a pod with faulty modules I have these available as a set of 5 bare boards, a kit of 5 board and parts or 5 assembled and tested modules.
  15. And here are short clips of the 6502 and 6800 running on the 8bit-museum NOP generators.
×
×
  • Create New...