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jbtech last won the day on March 13

jbtech had the most liked content!

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  • State
    Blue Mountains, NSW
  • Machines in your collection
    Arcade: Autorec upright, Taito Missile Command TT, Taito red upright / Space Invaders Colour, Gottlieb Challenger / MAME conversion, Golden Tee Fore 2005, Hankin upright / Green Beret, Mirco Challenge, Lowboy / SFII, Logitec Space Invaders Colour TT.

    Consoles: Tempest PC50x, Atari 2600 'Vader', Atari 2600 'Junior', NES 'Toaster', Sega Mega Drive II, Super Famicom, Playstation 1, 2 and 3.

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  1. Hi @buttersoft if you can see any post by this member, by then clicking or tapping on their profile picture or icon you can view their profile including all the posts they have made. It's slightly different on a computer or mobile device but there's a tab to 'find all content' or 'see all activity' in either case. Or if you just know the member name you can use the search box, and there is a 'more options' selection under that you can tick 'members' and it will search member names, you can view their profile from there. Hope that helps, sorry if I've misread your question. Regards, John.
  2. Sadly, CRTs don't last forever and will deteriorate over time. In their day broadcast grade monitors which were used continuously and never switched off were needing their CRTs replaced every few years as the intensity, focus and particularly grey scale tracking fell below par and could no longer be corrected by adjustment. Though far less critical I'm sure arcade machines in continuous use also went through tubes, especially when conversion kits and then the JAMMA standard allowed a cabinet to outlive the original game many times over. There's also the issue of screen burn, games like Pacman being notorious for this as the maze never moves and is present even in attract mode. I think with CRTs it comes down to hours of use (i.e. filament hours) and not usually years since manufacture so I wouldn't be leaving old machines running all the time for no reason. It's possible to repair or even replace a faulty chassis but the CRTs themselves are no longer manufactured and I doubt anyone still has the resources to re-gun old tubes either. To do that replacement neck assemblies needed to be manufactured as well as having the equipment to cut, glass 'weld' the neck and re-evacuate the tube... Enjoy them while they last and try to save any useable tubes from going to waste, regards John.
  3. Just out of interest, what is the original size / tube number fitted to the Nintendo 'red tent'? is it 46, 47 or 48cm? Regards, John.
  4. Hi, as long as you provide all the functions of the original TV case (mechanical strength, suitable layout, ventilation and protection from outside contact) and ensure all internal wiring is preserved intact especially the ground wire from the body of the tube to the chassis and / or CRT socket board it should work well. I was a bit worried by the look of the corner brackets but if they're metal and well secured to the frame they should be OK to take the weight and extra loading from moving / lifting etc. If the arcade cabinet is fully enclosed then the monitor doesn't necessarily need to be, most arcade machines use open frame monitors inside for best ventilation.. Likewise, putting handles for easy removal is a nice touch but how often will it need to be moved? If you want it to be fully enclosed as a standalone item for some reason you can get handle inserts like this:- https://www.jaycar.com.au/pocket-handle/p/HS8012 Also, note to all! before dismantling any CRT TV, make sure you are familiar with the method of safely discharging the EHT Voltage from the CRT. If at all unsure search on Youtube etc. Regards, John.
  5. Hi, pretty sure the large filter cap will fix that, as you mentioned, having already checked the degaussing circuit isn't the cause. The wavy picture is probably caused by some AC ripple on the chassis' rectified supply rail 50Hz or 100Hz which shows up against the 60Hz video field rate. If it was the smaller caps in the horizontal oscillator you would more likely have horizontal jitter or squiggly lines at the top of screen rather than this crawling wave pattern. Try find a replacement with equal or greater voltage rating, capacitance and temperature rating and the same lead spacing. But before you remove the chassis, make sure you are familiar with the method of safely discharging the EHT Voltage from the CRT. (search on Youtube etc if unsure). Regards, John.
  6. Hi, yes I'd go with the Challenger distribution unit too if it fits neatly in the bottom of the cab - as it has pretty well everything you need. It's already set up for 240V, has the mains fuse and switch as well as the stepdown / isolation transformer for the monitor. It's not like you're discarding original parts either, as the Sega cab was already gutted and the cost of refitting it with all original parts would be excessive. If your Gottlieb cab is a driver I guess you'd need to adapt some wiring for the control panel but that shouldn't be too difficult... If you do go with a 110V Astro City power setup, the monitor supply should still be isolated from the rest of the 110V wiring so you would either need two separate transformers (or 1 with two isolated secondaries) or a single 110V stepdown transformer overall and then an isolating transformer between the 110V and the monitor. Either way, the existing unit seems a better option to me. Looking good so far, will be great when it's all together. Regards, John
  7. Hi - yes, make sure the power is unplugged first ! Moving the deflection connector to the adjacent row of pins on the PCB will flip the image. Regards, John
  8. Hi again, this worked surprisingly well on a small phone screen (s5 mini) without any tweaking. The touchscreen works by default, set up as a touch lightgun. In portrait mode a touch joystick and buttons also show up but can be switched off. The joystick is useful when the game starts and says 'type OK' you can do joystick left, right instead which is a MAME standard input. To get into the machine settings an external keyboard or on screen keyboard might be required, usually F2 brings up the service menu, haven't tried that on here yet... Regards, John.
  9. Hi, those Galaxy Tablets should be OK, I think. I haven't tried MAME with an android device before but out of curiosity will dig out a small android tablet I have somewhere and try it too. You should be able to install MAME4droid (0.139u1) free from the Google Play Store, that should run well enough on those tablets and support any of the Touchmaster games. Anyone more familiar with this feel free to chime in! Regards, John PS. This should work on an android phone too but the screens are a bit small...
  10. There are MAME releases for Android which should work for you such as Mame4droid but I haven't used them myself. You can also run the Touchmaster games with other controllers in MAME if you want - joystick, mouse, even trackball will work. Most of the games on it are pretty basic point and click aren't they? If your touchscreen monitors are VGA they won't connect directly to a Raspberry Pi either as it is HDMI / DVI only though HDMI to VGA converters are available. I hadn't heard of the Touchmaster games but have looked at the Merit Megatouch games which seem similar. The Touchmaster games appear to be easier to emulate in MAME as the hardware seems simpler, the Megatouch appears to need a CHD dump of its hard drive / operating system to work. Thanks for mentioning this system, it has given me a couple of ideas for a future project of mine, what to do with this: Regards, John
  11. Sooo, did changing your password help with this issue? Regards, John
  12. Works on my Samsung S5 too (don't tell me my phone is 16 models out of date already!) Regards, John
  13. It's sad to see 'high tech' components affected by such a fundamental issue as rust. This from my Taito SI repair... On a brighter note, while reading this log I saw your collective recommendation for the Elenco LP560 logic probe - I've been meaning to replace my El-cheapo logic probe with something better and took all your advice, finding them still available on Amazon and it has arrived already. Can't wait to try it out on my next repair, probably the Atari Centipede PCB. Thanks for the tip. Regards, John
  14. @Arcade King Sorry to bump an old thread! I'm looking to buy a couple D2125A-2 or similar RAMs to finish off an Exerion PCB repair if you still have any spare to sell, let me know. I did order a couple from OS months ago but they must be on a slow boat somewhere... Thanks if you can help, great repair log btw! Regards, John
  15. Here is one which will fit the mounting hole spacings at least, still 4 Ohm though. https://www.jaycar.com.au/125mm-5-all-purpose-replacement-speaker/p/AS3007 Regards, John.
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