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AskJacob

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Everything posted by AskJacob

  1. OK, I'll take a swing at putting it together. Worst case scenario if I move it on before finishing, the new owner will have less parts to drag away πŸ˜„
  2. Quite unusual. If the crazy ever ends I'd happily take a look at it - some hunches but yeah, only guesses without getting handsy.
  3. My Bad terminology - it's an sram that is externally backed up by a battery (which in my head is an nvram even if technically wrong πŸ™‚ )
  4. It depends on who did the mod for the battery. If they put in a diode then the 5v can supply the nvram while powered on (just plugged in is not enough) saving the battery otherwise if they did some odd trace cut then only the battery is supplying the NVRAM all the time, but I'd be suprised if they did it that way... It looks like you mention leaving it plugged in - that alone won't keep the NVRAM supplied from the 5v - the power switch turns off everything in the cab- the same as unplugging it from the socket
  5. I get it. If I had to look into a "as new" restoration - then I'd pass on it right now. As it is, I'd like to clean it up, get it back together and at least arrest the decline of the thing. As to the labour - it's a hobby. Better polishing some post than reading Reddit πŸ˜„ I know there is no way I could recover the labour effort thaat goes into these old things Would I want it? Not really - I already have a similar era Stern so not keen on keeping it. If I can get it up and running then I'd be keen to move it on and probably buy a cab kit for the vpin.
  6. OK So time to work the WPC board. First round is to just knock off the corrosion on the components top side: it was just a quick blast to clean it up enough to solder etc. Trying to solder through crust joints is asking for trouble. Those IC legs cleaned up nicely, but they are coming out to check the track underneath. Below is some tracking through the lacquer to check that the copper is still OK, and removing any blacken parts. Anyone have a lead on reasonable green lacquer to re-cover these areas once done? Enough trying out the idea - but it's dinner time and I need to hang out with the family. More to come!
  7. πŸ˜„ I came for validation. I can prove to my family I'm not crazy...
  8. OK, time to bring out the tiny guns on this thing. I bought this little guy a few too many years ago hoping it would be good for this kind of work, but never tried it. So grabbed an old MPU-100 I had that is a disaster zone already to test it out first. Amazing! This is probably the best corrosion fighting tool I have tried. It is a mini-sandblaster that uses grit that is VERY fine. Before - Nasty After - A clean bit in the corner! Dodgy IC location Clean and ready to repair IC location This thing is quick too. I'm in love πŸ˜„ Now to get to work on the WPC board...
  9. Last time this was going on, I was actually here! Looking forward to seeing this one. I started a screen rotating cab that was cocktail-style but it was so long ago and I ditched it in a move. It was bulky as I used a pretty big crt in it πŸ˜„ - and like 94% of my projects never finished...
  10. Ahh, dammit. We have all seen the green death before. I SWEAR I thought I had remoted the batteries on this one... but as you see, nope (although I did actually do it after finding the damage a week or two ago). As a bonus, some moron (me) had duracells in it. They are banned from the house - have been for years so that tells you something else about the attention I paid to this... Now I need to get into this and fix it. Here is my starting point: Boots without error. Does not respond to coin up or control buttons - which looks understandable if you see where the green has crept to. I'll keep you and me up to date with how the repair goes. The frustrating part is that the corrosion has meandered under the lacquer blackening tracks. CHECK YOUR GAMES JUST IN CASE!
  11. So far that is 2 for 2 on fix 'er up. Looks like a restoration thread coming soon πŸ˜„
  12. Hey! I bought this a Looong time ago as a donor cab for a virtual pin project. The longer it has hung around though, the more I like the idea of fixing it up. I have a lot of the bits for this, but plenty missing I am sure. I'd like thoughts from third parties on whether it would be worth fixing it up and moving it on vs doing a horrible thing to a pin and stripping for the cab. I think you can see where my feeling are, hence needing external thoughts. The head needs some repairs where the joints are coming apart, but the rest is not too terrible... Back glass has some flaking, pics show the worst of it. The playfield is grubby but should clean up quite nicely... I have re-done the coinbox and legs already (the easiest part of the job!). The cab has one loose corner and annoyingly a credit button drilled in the front too. Help me make up my mind so it doesn't sit there for another damn 15 years πŸ˜„
  13. Free from now until Sep 10 2121. If you get it know it is yours to keep. Weird platform/fetch and grab/pinball themed game - kind of interesting and the right price to just have a look. Published by Team17 who have been around since the Amiga days. If you have the epic game store, it is the current free game this week. Save $28.95
  14. Intimidating isn't it! No wonder it scares family away from wanting a game πŸ˜„
  15. Hi All, This is a stunning game, but we don't have the space, and I don't have willing players for this 😞 I hate to let it go in the condition it is in, but here we are... I hope someone is a fan out there. Game is as new. Everything inside is MINT, external of box has small dents in one corner - close-up pic to show. By MINT, I mean it: All game pieces still on their sprues, game cards still shrink wrapped, all tokens still unpunched from their stock. I am asking for $100 firm + shipping. I can hang on to it until the nonsense subsides for pickup as well. Details on the game here: https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3633/sid-meiers-civilization-boardgame This is a BIG game to get into: Components: One 36 by 46 inch gameboard 78 technology and wonder cards: 15 ancient technologies 10 medieval technologies 10 gunpowder/industrial technologies 18 modern technologies 7 ancient wonders of the world 5 medieval wonders of the world 5 gunpowder/industrial wonders of the world 8 modern wonders of the world 2 blank cards 61 square city cards (including 4 blank cards) 64 square city improvement cards 3 square fertile cards One Technology Flow Chart One Rules Reference Chart Four dice (two red, two white) Rule book 784 plastic pieces: Armies Infantry Ancient 32 Swordmen Medieval 32 Men-at Arms Industrial 32 Musketmen Modern 32 Machinegunners Cavalry Ancient 32 Horsemen Medieval 24 Knights Industrial 24 Dragoons Modern 24 Tanks Artillery Ancient & Medieval 24 Catapults Industrial 24 Cannons Modern 24 Howitzers Fleets Ancient 16 Galleys Medieval 16 Caravels Industrial 16 Frigates Modern 16 Battleships Aircrafts Modern 32 Fighters Player Tokens (The following tokens in six colors): 8 Settlers 14 Flag Bearers 12 Villages 12 Towns 10 Cities 8 Metropolises 72 Coins: 18 1 dollar 12 5 dollars 15 10 dollars 10 20 dollars 10 50 dollars 7 100 dollars 90 explorer tokens: 3 fertile/productive [gear] 4 jungle/forest 4 mountains 4 desert 4 plague 4 free technology [light bulb] 6 treasure 6 minor civilization 5 of each of 8 resources [wine, horses, iron, gems, spices, oil, coal, and rare metals] 15 no encounter
  16. Luna Park in Sydney has(d?) a stunning one of these. Made me want to make one myself.. one day. Apologies for taking the picture on a potato back then
  17. These look great, and the price looks good too. πŸ‘
  18. Getting on the big side but try looking for "piano wire" that hobby shops sell. Markup is huge but you can get small amounts. It is a spring steel, so it can be tough to work with and will rust. If you are just prototyping to get the length/sizes worked out you may find a wire coathanger of the right size, but it would be terrible for a "final" product πŸ˜„
  19. Ah, No. I can't believe I kept myself out of the loop. Many years ago (pre-kids, in 2009) my wife and I were headed to NZ for a trip, and Yee selflessly invited us, internet strangers, to visit his home, to meet him and his wonderful family, enjoy some BBQ and of course, see his collection. It is a memory I still look back on and reflect how much of the positive side of a hobby someone can have and share. Just my short addition to all the great things I have known, and have been hearing about Yee. RIP
  20. That handle and mask cover look like great candidates for making a mold and casting them in metal. I can do aluminium and possibly brass casting but that is a bit trickier. If you can find someone who would let you have access to the originals for non destructive mold making (it won't harm them at all) then I would like to have a go!
  21. OK that was quick! Sold already. I hope it is useful! Cheers Jacob
  22. Honestly, no idea how I ended up with it, but if you can use it, it's yours for postage. Labelled sunrise microelectronics so is from an aussie cab.
  23. For a bit of cheapish testing you can grab some LEDs off ebay or similar - basically most are generic "purple" near uv lights at around 395nm (purple to the eye, and close to the old skool "black glow" fluoro tubes with their fluorescence effect) but you can get 365nm reasonably easily as well (dull white-ish blue to the eye) as well. Any smaller wavelength and you are getting into very esoteric LEDs that need silica glass encapsulation not the standard resin - and cost a lot.
  24. With your comment on the UV lighting - UV is divided into UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC is the nasty one which causes skin burns and cataracts and is used in germicidal lamps. All "party" lighting is either near-UV or UVA, which does not harm us. There is a LOT of shonky UV stuff around due to the germicidal properties and COVID opportunism - a lot of NOT UVC stuff out there on massive mark ups. Won't do a thing to virus or bacteria, but will really make those 70's posters pop πŸ™‚
  25. If they were Duracell, the date could still say use be 2034 and the damage would be the same...
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