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chaos199

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Everything posted by chaos199

  1. My top end right speaker has 40 ohms when it should be reading 8ohms. It's time to get another but I have no idea of the specs of this speaker as I can't find anything in a search other then it's brand being Pyle (unverified). Trying to find a replacement but help in finding the specs of it first would be great. It's either a mid range, high range or a combo of the 2 as the 12in handles the bass. It may be at least 70W but I read that Pyle is known for their loud speakers so maybe over 100W. The model is 51502 and it's about 6inch (or maybe 5inch).
  2. My display on my CD100A appears dead and I have spent over 30 hours trying to fix. The CCC appears to work fine (with no display to see how it feels) and I checked the following things - On the CCC the LEDs operate as should when the system boots up - detecting no errors. On the display board I get the 8V and 28V measured with DMM On the 5V regulator I get 4.95V out I spent ages doing continuity checks on display board and cables to the CCC The LED on the display PCB that detects 5V is very weak. Checking for 5V around the board seems to be normal measuring 4.85V in a number of spots including right before the 33k resistor to the LED. On the other side of the resistor it measures 1.5V which seems like a normal voltage drop with the 33k resistor (but not sure) and I don’t know if weak LED is supposed to be as bright as the ones on the CCC. It also only measures 2mA before the resistor and 0mA after it (so maybe 0.5 mA). Clumsy me shorted the 5V regulator when probe slipped across the pins but I replaced it with new one. I replaced the zener diodes I was suspicious of and also the tantalum capacitors but none of that made any difference. I’m not sure if it’s a data issue or a power issue I’ve got with the display. I get -38V from the transformer on the PCB that runs the alphanumeric display but I think it’s an AC out for the display and rest of circuit is DC so if I had set it to AC on DMM it might have read +38 instead of -38 as I had my ground probe on the logic ground part. I have a logic probe but not good in using it. I don’t know if the circuit is CMOS or TTL so any advice to this will help (I think it’s CMOS but want to be sure). There are 2 inputs for the data line (+ &-) and 2 for the clock (+ & -) into the first chip on the display board and then to lines out of it to the main display IC. I’m not sure would it should measure with a logic probe (high/low/pulse) but I’m assuming it would be a pulse so help from anyone that knows what I should expect from any of the inputs and outputs would be helpful to know to compare with. There is also a display load/reset pint on the main IC but not sure what that should get with logic probe either. The VSS for the main IC is 5VDC but I don’t know what it should be exactly for the VDD (maybe 10-15V). Appreciate any easy tips on how to diagnose this problem to find out at least what has failed (eg:CCC/display PCB/wiring/alphanumeric display/transformer/main display IC/etc), so I can just focus on the section that faulty. I’m not sure if anything on the display should still light up (even a dot) so it would be handy if anyone else has a laserstar model they could pull out plug 6 (it only has the 4 data and clock wires) from the CCC and see if anything is left lit up on the display at all. Considering the 35hours I have invested in trying to fix this I feel like if I got a job delivering pizzas I could have made $800 instead to buy another one for sale else where in the world but I do want to finish what I started so thanks for any help in advance. the photo is of schematic if of any help
  3. Yes it use to work. I think it was likely something due to being left in the coin box when my pinball had 70L of rain poor into the front end and in coin box when the roof sheet tore off. The G13 mech is an old one and not the "as quite as old" G13.6 that had inbuilt credit board. I have owned about 10 G13 mechs like these over the past 20 years in different game and can assure the switch is in correct position and also works (it was one of the first things i checked). All the 6 dip blocking switches work properly in off and on position (off-accept/ on-reject) - problem is it just doesn't give a credit to any $1coin. Maybe I should be asking what could the water effect on mech that is not used with any other coin (eg: the 3 coils in each side of door maybe can't be the fault if they work fine with $2 and 20cent coins. It must be a part that assigns a credit to the $1 coin in particular and I thought that was the main IC in it but I swapped them over and it had no effect like when I swapped the coin mech with another G13, the problem carried with the mech that was flooded in the coin box. It's only a $100 used part but I like to use problem solving efforts to fix things when I instead should be like everyone else and just stick to playing and enjoying the dame game. Much appreciate any further tips/advice.
  4. I wish it was as simple as that, however I am using the same actual coins all year on both my pinnies.
  5. I already did both and it made no difference. The dip switch works fine as it can determine the difference between on and off for switch 4.
  6. I have an old NRI G13.0004/2 that I left in my Judge Dreed coin box. No problem with that but on Xmas day I found the skylight cover in my garage blew off 3 weeks earlier without knowing and when I went in mancave to play pinball found the coin box full of water - then looked up to see the roof part missing and checked weather report to find that 55mm of rain fell during last 3 weeks which amounts to about 7 litres of water poured down on my pinball with the size of roof missing. Anyway getting to the point apart from the water damaged the the floor of my pinball that's sagging, the coin mech does partly work. All the coins still go thru the accepted slot and all register with credit (when I check the switch test on pinball) - except the $1 coin doesn't give a credit even though it goes thru accepted slot. I put the coin mech in a Indiana jones (williams) but it made no difference which eliminated the issue being related to anything other then the coin mech. I then swapped over the main programmed IC in it and still it made no difference, so I am just assuming it doesn't need to be reprogramed since the chip still works in my other NRI G13 coin mech. I then checked over the coin mech and cleaned the inside where the coin runs through the 3 coils. It still made no difference. I then checked the 6 dipswitch settings and it is still set exactly how it should be. If I move switch 4 ($1) to on to block, it falls thru the reject like it should do and when switched to off, it accepts like it should but still gives no credit. It seems like a hardware issue due to soaking in an inch of rain water left in coin box for maybe 2 weeks and hope someone has any ideas on who to fix the problem. Keep in mind all the coins still go thru the accepted slot (even $1) but only $1 coin is not credited. It's weird but there must be a logical explanation as to the cause. It wasn't such a merry Xmas day for me.
  7. the 6 pin dipswitch in for not accepting the coin. If all are off all type of coins are accepted. make sure switch 3,4 and 5 are off- that's for 20cent $1,$2. You say nothing happens but something must happen. Check if the coin falls thru the accepted slot or the reject slot. If you don't measure 12V it will certainly fall thru the reject coz it has no power to go thru the accepted slot. Check the source of where the 12V is coming from would be an easy best start. Maybe the DC power supply has blown so check there and if no 12V check if it has a fuse that has blown.
  8. Curious to know what are a couple of the most well known arcade games that output at 25khz
  9. I have a Pentranic 1431 (used for 32inch crt), that I have always had on standard 15Khz. I would like to find out how to switch it to 25Khz and am aware of the plug to obviously switch it over to but would like to know it there is any other plug/setting adjustment I would need to do before turning the monitor back on. I also would like to know what difference (if even slightly) should I expect in the picture quality if I am still using the same old game system that supports 15Khz. I used to have a street fighter vs capcom but now I just bought a pandora's box for mostly old 2D games made for CGA output.
  10. On my previous post i did mention I fixed my problem - thanks to advice from AA users (which of course includes Jomac as a user). That info I got from other other techs stating it was a HV and crt problem have websites claiming to be expert qualified repairers of TV's and other electronic goods. Hey Jomac, they may met the bare minimum requirements to be qualified but perhaps they are just exaggerating theirs skills and aren't no where near as good as you Jomac. Maybe they just wanted to make it up as if it was a much more serious problem then it was so I would have to drop it off to them as they asked me to, and they could bill me plenty for a 10 second job without me really ever knowing what was wrong with. People might do some immoral things during covid-19 with a loss of income. Thanks for the extra links
  11. Thanks for all the info but I am not look at spending much. I am aware crt fade but my 2 identical MV6 NEO GEO cabs where bought in 1990 and put in storage in 2005 at the same time and just recently taken out and used for several hours. I expected the screen to be about the same quality condition but one is normal and the other is faded (mostly green) since they have been used and left on for just as much time since 1990 (just 15 years of use each). Also note that the green is not faded as much in photo. When I held my phone up to take the shot I could easily see the whiteness on the green patch on the phone screen but it looks much better with the naked eye- - it's just still not as vibrant as my other NEO GEO.
  12. I have a Zenith CRT 63cm in a 1990 LAI cabinet that was keep in storage for last 15 years and just recently turned on last month. The colour is faded mostly with the green and a little with the red and I adjusted the RGB on the next board and chassis for 30 mins but it only reduced the colour and tinted the white. However there is no problem with the neck board or chassis as it works with full colour with another identical CRT. I also eliminated the game board and video cable as a possible cause as I plugged the video cable from another machine into the input of the chassis but it made no difference on the screen. As it was 15 years ago when I had it running I can't remember the quality of the picture before I stored it. I believe my worst fear might be true and the cause is the CRT picture tube itself. I hope someone can advise on what I can do (if anything) to improve the colour vibrancy (there is no problem with lack of brightness). I'm in Melbourne and there is no tech I have found that has a rejuvenator and even then I have heard stories where it destroyed the CRT in a few cases. I am hoping for just some simple cheap solution or adjustment to try, if not I will just leave it as it is. In the photo with the test colour screen the green is not as white as seen in the photo (it's bad but not as bad in photo - perhaps my phone camera is crap)
  13. Thank God (or should I say AA users) I finally fixed the problem simply by unscrewing the ground braid to the chassis. I don't know why LAI made it like that or what happen to cause the problem but removing it solved the problem
  14. everything is turned off in my house except the fridge and clock but it makes no difference. It's weird how when both identical cabinets are turned on at the same time only one is still effected (even when I swap the monitor power cables to the chassis from the other cabinets putting them back to back). In last 24 hours 3 qualified repair techs (including Jomac) have told me the cause is different. One said it was a HV chassis problem, another said it was the CRT and can not be fixed and another said it was simply a ground/earthing issue. I hope there is a user on AA that has actually had this problem and solved it.
  15. I did note that the vertical lines graphic glitch has since been fixed and I do have 2 complete identical cabinet and systems to compare with. Take a look at all 3 vids and you will see (the neo logo vid is an old one but still contains the main issue with fault).
  16. I have a kortek KTX-26 chassis and Zenith CRT from a LAI NEO-GEO cabinet (and it was used in a lot of LAI early 90’s cabinets). A have 2 NEO GEO 6 slot cabinets (both left unused in storage for 15 years) so to isolate the cause I swapped the MV6 board, game power supply, chassis, game carts and even ran the power cable to the chassis from the other cabinet but trying all these thing never made a different so I believe it must be the CRT or interference from something. My other identical NEO cabinet works fine and the filament in the CRT neck is just as bright. One technician said it likely be a high voltage problem without seeing it. There is no arching at all. I went through a huge monitor repair guide consisting of over 115000 words (http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/monfaq.htm) but unfortunately nothing was mentioned that fit my symptom (but I did learn plenty of other things from it). The effect on the screen is flickering rectangle dots that consistently flash all over the screen. I haven’t noticed a pattern, it just seem to flicker/flash like rain drops. The dots are white and they become more or less noticeable depending on how bright the screen is with video graphic changes. It is most noticeable when the screen changes between bright and dark - like when the NEO GEO logo pops up on the screen. Changing the G2 control on chassis does not fix the issue and will only alter how noticeable it is when the screen is dark or not (which is useless with video game graphics constantly changing. I have read power source can give interference even if from down the street but unsure why my other cabinet is not effected. It would be really great if someone could give me advice on how to fix this monitor issue or at least has heard or read of it happening to someone else (hopefully on this site), and the name of the symptom (if it has ever been given one) as it may give me a new direction to search for. I will attach a link to some tiny mp4’s to notice the flashing tiny horizontal lines (never mind the vertical lines in the logo vid as I have since fixed that glitch). I am very surprised that with so many users on the site with arcades I can’t find any post mentioning the same type of issue. https://drive.google.com/file/d/11E7JFgL2vhl2mmk-dqZDwBKXXuMVUdhZ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F15Dy-EeI5YdxeTGHwKI79urjyvgmcws/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/10OxvfDrQvX7yVynHZqDOEM8BZX5S-lZW/view?usp=sharing neo.mp4 - Google Drive
  17. I have double dragon, art of fighting, samurai shodown (full kit), 2020 super baseball(full kit), cyber lip
  18. Amarda might be the only one. Parts are very rare for these old machines. I have a 100A with a manual but the display schematic is different then my actual display and I need to repair. It would be great if you could send me a photo of yours in the manual 100C. (maybe section 5 page 66/67)
  19. I might be interested in your mvs 4-slot. Do you still have it for sale? Maybe even swap for a working MVS cart.
  20. I have a 6 slot that had a similar problem. The address 8000 is referring to the fast video ram chips. The 4 and 6 slot boards have 2 chips CXK5814 and the 1 slot might have the same. Check the 2 chips and the traces to them from the LSPC-A0 or LSPC2-A2. The read FFFF is supposed to be the same as the write 5555. Each letter "F" measures 1111 but should be 0101. If you don't have a probe to test with it might be easier to just replace the to chips. They cost about $2-$5 for a pack from china.
  21. The vertical section within my deflection yoke is stuffed some how - very high resistance, maybe burnt, short or something (have been told they are very difficult to repair). If it were 15 years ago I probably could have found a yoke by now but in this day and age you all know the are very rare to find. My 30 year old 26 inch monitor and chassis is a Kortek KTX-26 (used in 1990 LAI cabinets) that is supposed to have a vertical resistance of 27.5 ohms (but it's 4750) and the horizontal in correct at just 1 ohm. The sticker on the yoke is "591M" (I think it's the model) and the other number is "KY8544S" (I think it might be the serial but not sure). The tube model is GA63ADG25X I would like to hear from anyone in the country that could suggest of a place that might have a yoke for a low res CGA TV or Monitor (I'll give 'em a call to see if they have a compatible one) as I have so far been unsuccessful in finding even an old CRT repairer in Melbourne that stocks any old parts. Yeah, I know there obsolete now but I prefer to get the tube working again then replace with a LCD. Also it would be great if anyone knows what other yokes might be compatible with mine.
  22. Is that 2 Amps for the 12V or 5V lines or for both? If most boards will use less than 3 Amps I don't know why the typical arcade power supplies are around 15A for the 5V output. Anyone have any idea? I think I found a cheap alternative if ever needing to buy a new power supply. Instead of spending over $20 you could buy a 12V 2A DC power supply for $2.20 and a DC-DC 12V to 5V adjustable step down convertor (up to 3A max) for $1.10. Plug the 12V power adaptor into the 5V convertor and run wires from the 5V output (adjustable) and from the 12V input on the convertor, both to the jamma connector. Then solder 2 wires to the AC socket pins on the adaptor to a plug that fits your machine (it should be the same type of socket used for all AC devices in the cabinet) and just make sure you leave no bare AC connections. $3.30 and 5 minutes would be better if it works (and it should).
  23. I know most power supplies have 10-15 amps for 5V but how much does a game board actually use/need? As for 12V, if it only has a 2A supply does that mean it won't go as loud as the speakers can handle?
  24. I have what appears to be a vertical collapse but after spending so many hours on the Kortek KTX-26 chassis I'm not sure if it's that. I started looking for new chassis and checked the vertical resistance of my 26inch LAI cabinet and found it was not between 6-12 ohms but a huge 4750 ohms (triple checked). I checked my other LAI cabinet (both 1990 & 1992) and it measures 27.5 ohm which is still high compared to the common 6-12 ohm. Anyone know how the resistance could be so high from these tubes LAI used in early 90's? or how I am getting these readings now (I've had the cabinets for 20 years and never checked vertical resistance before). The horizontal resistance is 1.0 & 1.3 ohm for either tube.
  25. What would be the likelihood of it relating to the chips I replaced (the soldering/tracks checked ok with a continuity test after replaced). Any idea why it takes 10min to go to cross hatch when turning from cold first time? - - - Updated - - - great thanks for the wiki link, it has so much info on neo geo!
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