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Everything posted by djsheep

  1. The spacing between pins on JST NH is 2.54mm, so theoretically you could use anything with that spec given it allows spacing for the “tab” on the NH connectors edge. I regularly use DuPont cables for quick tests like this and have used them for CPS-1 kick harness/3P with no issues. Just ensure your polarity is correct. The shrouds and housing of JST NH and other series’ of connectors allow for easier connect/disconnect and avoidance of incorrect polarity insertion. A simple pass through cable will work the same just without the added features mentioned above.
  2. Yup. Service won’t trigger the coin meter counter.
  3. Nice one @1.21 Gigawatts -- nothing ever captures that first moment when everything comes together and the goal you had in mind comes to fruition. Smack some credits into the machine and get some serious gaming on. Looks fantastic!
  4. Hirose 34-pin: CPS-2/3 Kick Harness (Male Board Header) - DF1BZ-34DP-2.5DSA For CPS-1 you just need a 10 pin Male connector in the JST NH series Hope it helps, also I started a repository of useful arcade connector types over at A-P: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/popular-connectors-and-their-arcade-uses-jst-molex-te-sanwa-hirose-etc.18337/
  5. Hey man, hit me up anytime about CandyCabClub stuff. Keen to help you realise your goal. I just heard from Noodleshirt the other day, he’s a super busy individual, he’ll get back to you for sure. Stand up guy.
  6. The fluro yellow (Keikou) buttons really stand out. Even more so under proper black light. Books are also cool to flick through. Love the fact they even exist!
  7. Another delivery of goodies from CQBArcade.com: BEFORE: AFTER: Also grabbed both volumes of the "World of Balltops" book which is a Japanese doujin catalog of various balltops, past and present. And a bag of the SEGA Candy Cab wire clamps that were requested to be stocked by a member here. Really nice to have obscure genuine parts like that available, definitely going to grab another 20 or so of those as they really tidy things up "authentically".
  8. We no longer distribute or have anything to do, nor co-sign misteraddons or any of their products. Best to contact them direct.
  9. That flat screen Sony is actually a Wega SD and works with guns @xb74, got a beautiful Component picture, was my main screen before the PVMs.
  10. I kinda like the bulb just hanging there honestly… if I do see something interesting I’ll jump at it though. I think i have to replace the fitting to hold a cover…
  11. Reporting back with findings on my blacklight quest. Didn't want to pay the "Aussie Tax" on eBay for a B22 bulb, so just ordered a B22 to E27 adapter and a blacklight bulb from Aliexpress. I opted for a 40w bulb. Here's my space with just the the UV bulb, the camera catches much more of the effect that is visible. You can see the reaction it has on the white of the posters. Here's the space with just the UV bulb. Same space with UV Bulb and a Blue LED strip behind the cabs. Pretty much the perfect amount of ambient lighting I wanted in there. Haven't had a chance to fire up all the cabs, but I'm sure it will look great. Wanted to bring some light (no pun intended) to the Seimitsu Keikou buttons and balltops and show how they react to the Blacklight. Have a look at the Yellow P1/P2 start buttons which have zero reaction. Here's some standard Seimitsu Balltop/Buttons:
  12. Yep. What Pat said. I just realised the damage isn’t visible in the refurbed photo. Might just cave in and get a Noodleshirt repro eventually… Also, the Memory Card adapter was optional for this cab. I guess it was the “budget” Neo Geo cab at the time. The mounting bolts on the panel do indeed hold the IC adapter perfectly. I managed to find an original board and cables, however there’s Gerbers out there for free if you want to fab your own. There’s not much to them honestly and it’s an awesome little feature of the Neo.
  13. Great work on the CPO. How did you patch the missing part of the arts. I have a spot of rust on mine where a chunk of the CPO arts is missing.
  14. Just a quick update on the store! Lots of stuff has sold out over the past couple of months and I've managed to restock most of it. Thanking all my prior customers kindly for your support... Everten Stereo Boards are now live and up on the store! Add stereo connectors (and for some boards, a CPS-2 kick connector) to you Seibu SPI, ST-V, F3, ZN1/2 or GNet games with ease. Got some control panel and other offerings from Alberto. Got Axunworks JJ-CBOX setup's there too. MP07-IONA are for order and will be shipped out in a fortnight... Put up some JST connectors and other small bits and pieces too. btw. the CPS-1 Mutli is sold out, I will look at restocking soon, but in the meantime the first batch arrived today and will start shipping pre-orders out tomorrow. Everyone who pre-ordered via forums gets a genuine QSound chip! https://www.candycabclub.com/
  15. Cleanup looks great! re: Seimitsu, they’re probably the most common (and affordable) to me personally after Sanwa. Very used to them at this point being a Candy Cab user. The Seimitsu buttons are not as feather light as the Sanwa’s and I originally had LS-40’s in there, which swayed the choice. The Suzo’s are a match made in heaven for that cab IMO. Not to thread hijack, but for reference here’s a pic of my cab:
  16. This particular smaller LAI Neo Geo 4-Slot cab didn’t come with the marquee setup and just standard with a fluro bulb. The bigger 4-slot LAI cabinet (alongside the 6-slot) did come with the marquee setup however. Highly condone getting the repro marquee. I’ve been meaning to do it myself for my cab, but fear there is not enough room in that space to squeeze/mount everything in comfortably. re: sticks: Suzo Rotterdam and Seimitsu buttons worked out great for me. Piss those MCA’s right off.
  17. Friendly bump, if anyone has any Leisure Line, Cash Box or Time Zone magazines lying around... Thanks!
  18. One of the most challenging and frustrating things for those in the arcade/fight stick hobby in Australia (and other remote locations) is that we're at the mercy of long waits from Japan, the US or Europe to source legitimate parts for arcade sticks and panels. Sure, there's a few vendors locally and via eBay Australia, but I've always walked away due to the limited selection of parts and colours available, and at times the uncertain legitimacy of the parts. With the way the post-Covid world is it's been a much more challenging task because USPS no longer ships internationally and Japan Post only do Surface Mail. The result? Aussies have been forced to use expensive courier options or face lengthy waits for fulfilment if we really want that wide selection of parts to deck out our sticks or cabs. It can take upwards of 2-3 months to get here. *SIGH* I'm glad this has finally taken the turn for the better. I was lucky enough to be given early access to the Australian based website CQBArcade.com by its proprietor and good mate, xb74 -- below is a little review with lots of pics of my experience. This isn't a shill, I paid for my parts. I placed my order and asked a lot of questions about options and availability of plates and also about compatibility/interchangeability of parts and colour differences between Sanwa/Seimitsu. All of my questions were answered with photos and clear explanations. After I sent through my order it arrived in an extremely timely fashion, packed in a sturdy new Australia Post box in a satchel. The note pasted to the top of the box and custom packing tape was a nice touch, felt very humbled to be the first through the door too. Opening the box, I was greeted by a nice amount of padding protecting the contents. This is always a good sign. I'm always happy when people pack stuff the same way they'd like to receive it. I've been seeing this kind of service more and more with people such as Joko3 paying extra care to appeal to the customers satisfaction and the ultimate safety of the merchandise. Free candy and Alcohol wipes were a great and very thoughtful addition, can't beat having candy to snack on while doing a build, and the wipes are awesome to clean up the finished stick/panel of any unwanted fingerprints. Now this is where things are different to other vendors I've personally dealt with. Each item in the box was individually wrapped in bubble wrap and packed in ziplock bags. It all felt very safely contained and protected. My orders from Akishop for example have been wrapped very loosely in a sheet or two of bubble wrap and then placed in a basic paper envelope. I've always hated getting bent pins on buttons, surface scratches and dings, it's never been that bad honestly, but this isn't going to be happening at CQB Arcade. Here's everything unpacked. So damn cool to have all these genuine parts in one hit sourced locally. American, European and Japanese peeps might think it's not a big deal, but we're starved of this kinda stuff down under and in NZ. Was so happy to get these two sheets of Seimitsu stickers thrown in too. Here's all the wrapping used. It might look like overkill, but really it's not, my stuff was in mint condition and having recycled bubble wrap around is never a bad thing as it will be getting passed on in my packages. Here's the parts with my proposed builds, all ready to go. Here are the builds finalised. A+ 10/10 service. The shop opened last night, Aussie and NZ peeps, please give it a whirl and show [USER=635]@xb74[/USER] some love. If you're on social media, I've linked their accounts below. There's some nice Sanwa and Seimitsu box pictures on there, with some interesting updates to come I'm sure. Website: https://www.CQBArcade.com Twitter: https://twitter.com/cqb_arcade Instagram: https://instagram.com/cqb_arcade
  19. Looking to light up/glow my new arcade space with Black Light. Anyone have any experience doing this or have words of advice? I’ve read conflicting reports re: damage to cabs / CRTs? I’m looking to use a single B22 Bayonet style bulb and the greatest output I can find is 26w: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-UV-PARTY-LIGHTS-BLACK-LIGHT-BLACK-26W-BULB-TUBE-AUSTRALIAN-FITTING-240V-/255117326830 The space I’m lighting is relatively small, just 5m x 2m. I wonder if this will be enough. Going fluro or laying down LED strips is an option I’d like to avoid. There’s enough light coming from the cabs as is. I just want to give it that glow and ambiance that Taito HEY has to the whites of my cabs.
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