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Everything posted by Womble

  1. Yeh, Bunnings sell it, also Clarke Rubber. It's standard "Fine Rib Matting", sometimes called "V Rib Matting"
  2. Especially for one with the 25" Amplifone monitor!!
  3. Yep - if the boards in use are JAMMA then the harness would be the standard pinout (operator bodges aside). It's fine to move it from solder side to parts side in this case, the JAMMA standard has 4 pins (2 solder side, and 2 parts side) at both ends of the connector. The PCB connects all these pins together as the copper ground plane connects to all the ground pins on the edge connector, so even if you move the wire it still connects to the same conductor on the PCB. Insulation isn't much of an issue on the ground wires, in fact none of the wires on a JAMMA harness carry anything remotely dangerous. The only benefit is to stop things being shorted out if anything metal falls on, or make contact with its neighbour if bent or broken. Exposed ground isn't much of any issue, I'd worry more about the 5V up the other end of the harness as that has some amps behind it, but I wouldn't worry much if this lives inside a cabinet away from inquisitive fingers and physical damage. Resolder the joint and I suspect your controller issues will be gone.
  4. Doesn't look like burn in, may be a scuff mark on the outer surface of the glass.
  5. Looks like its a broken ground wire from the end of the connector, but it is the pin that's broken not the wire. If this is is a JAMMA connector then I'd just remove the snapped stump from the wire and solder the wire to this pin, the 4 end pins (2 in each row) are all common. BUT please confirm this is JAMMA first. The cabinet may work fine without it, unless it is a ground return for one of the control looms, in which case some buttons or joysticks may not work without it. Eitherway it needs to be secured so you might as well reconnect it, safer than letting it flap around in the breeze. The whole connector looks a bit of a mess, if it was my cab I would cut it off and fit a new one neatly.,
  6. It really depends what wire it was, it was a power wire then fitting in the wrong location will cause damage.
  7. Am happy here, on the Telstra 50Mbps plan on FTTC, have never had a dropout that I've noticed. It has 4G backup so I wouldn't expect to notice any. 95% of the infrastructure you use is owned by the NBN anyway, so your provider doesn't have much control over whether you get dropouts or not. Speedwise I get 45-48Mbps depending on time of day. Have been on it for about 8 months, moving from Optus cable which was much more unreliable, that had an outage every month or so and some impressive slowdowns at peak Netflix times.
  8. Yeh, send it to Jomac - sounds like you've lost the high voltage, that's not something I'd suggest anyone plays around with.
  9. Yep - if you are going to be doing more than one it pays to invest, it is never harder than on day one when you only have basic tools.
  10. Quality is great, but unfortunately there's nothing that sticks out as a likely candidate, Fujitsu 74xxx chips from this era aren't the problem they are on later boards as I guess they changed the manufacturing process. If you had any daughter-boards I'd suspect the contacts as they are usually just rammed in to sockets which is a very bad design and they tend to be in the gfx section of pcbs. Your fault will likely be on the larger of the two boards, as the game is running and controllable the smaller CPU board is probably fine. You'd need a logic probe or a scope to progress further. Shotgunning the repair is pretty hit and miss when you work blind, plus it involves a lot of desoldering which is risky without the correct tools. You could track down some replacement DRAM ICs for the bank of 4 and do a swap, but a scope would show you whether the ones on the board are being driven correctly and whether their output is sane. I can't tell which is pin 36, but I'm guessing its on the underside, so it is probably the -5v. On older boards that's often used by the video generation section so an interruption will cause craziness. Then again Frogger had a range on pinouts so it's only a guess. If you were in Vic and we weren't in lockdown I'd suggest bringing it over for a board repair lesson.
  11. I don't advise doing that, the chances it is a dry joint are astronomically small, and the chance you will create, or introduce a bridge is very high. Can you post a photo of the PCB? Frogger has a tonne of variations out there so google won't necessarily help.
  12. Could be RAM, ROM or logic issues I'm afraid.
  13. Ah great - no idea how I missed that. Wish I hadn't lost the broken original on my 054986A.
  14. Actually they aren't going to fix your issue - Your board needs two 054986A modules, not the 054544 version. As for the difference I'm not sure but the 054986 needs a custom IC that has to be recovered from the dead module. As for whether it is worth repairing, possibly not, I don't hear much love for sports games in general, other than NBA Jam.
  15. Your issue is those flat black hybrid modules, the caps built into it will have aged and leaked. Some people have managed to replace the caps but the plate is ceramic and very easily cracked. I’m pretty sure a replacement part is being developed at the moment as a drop in replacement. There’s a link on here somewhere.
  16. I'd walk away, the board is probably only worth $100 on a good day with a tail wind (bootleg SFboard's don't seem to sell well) and the cab is really nothing special. So you'd be spending $400 on a monitor that probably has a million miles on the clock and would need a service to look good or stay reliable. You'd be better off finding a roadkill TV and seeing if Jomac could sort you out a chassis for the tube. That would get you a much better monitor for much less $$.
  17. Dirty contacts in the slot, or you’ve got track rot, you’ve lost an upper address line by the look of it.
  18. Give the sync wire a gentle pull at the JAMMA connector end, it looks like you’ve got a eBay harness and those often have insanely fine wires, I’ve met a few where the connection was broken and the only thing holding the wire in place was the heatshrink. You may find the wire just slides out.
  19. The sequel "Turtles in Time" is stereo via a pin header on the PCB, but TMNT is standard mono out the JAMMA.
  20. Tbh I wouldn’t bother with going LED, it isn’t worth it. The original fluro tubes don’t run hot and if heat wasn’t a problem in the days where the cabinet ran 16 hours a day non stop it isn’t going to be a problem for a cabinet getting home use. But probably the biggest issue is that LEDs are very directional, even the tubes, whereas a fluro gives light out over its entire surface. An LED strip would give a very bright stripe behind the marquee and look weird, so you would have to find a very wide beam tube or work out a diffuser system. Basically you are solving a problem that doesn’t exist, and $20 at bunnings will get you a new tube and starter.
  21. That's fantastic, I've had a board in my "too good to scrap" pile for years that only needs one of these to restore it to full health!!
  22. Hiya - Welcome to AA!! A 6 slotter is a great cabinet! -Rear excessively loud Do you mean rear fan? You don't really need it unless the cabinet is going to running for hours and hours on end, even then probably not. Most people just disconnect the fan, be careful though as the fans are usually 240VAC. There is probably a distribution box inside where you can just unplug the wire that goes to the fan. -Marquee lights not working Probably a bad tube, or bad starter? Or one or both is missing. I'd start by checking you get 240VAC at the ballast, but tread carefully. If the tube is black at either end then replace, if not replace the plug in starter. If you replace the tube then replace the starter too. -Joysticks unresponsive (intermittent) Old microswitches with dirty/oxidised contacts, it is possible to disassemble these and polish the contacts with a fibre glass pen (Jaycar sell them). Alternatively you can just replace the lot, if the wiring is original and you can just unplug the connectors to each switch. Unfortunately cabs usually they have been hacked about and have the wires soldered directly the switches instead of the original spade connectors, so cleaning the contacts is probably easier. -Game sounds quiet/muffled at max volume PCB amp section needs to be re-capped, common problem on NeoGeos.
  23. Pretty sure the board still has the Kabuki, I’ve never seen a stock z80 in that package from any of the manufacturers.
  24. I suspect you still have a chassis fault, assuming it is set up correctly. The only options for this issue are 1) Cabling issue, it is worth checking that the video cable goes where it should. Google "JAMMA pinout" - the 5 wires should connect up like this. Red wire = Video Red Green wire = Video Green Blue wire = Video Blue Black wire = Video ground (or PCB ground) Yellow wire = Video Sync 2) PCB fault, but if you can hear the game running then any fault would have to be right at the video output stage, it's possible but low on the probability scale. I would hook up another JAMMA board to completely rule out the PCB, but I suspect you'll still get no image with a second board. There is a very slight chance that the monitor chassis is killing the video output on boards, extremely unlikely, but dont test with a $1000 Cave PCB. The PCB by the connector on the chassis is probably labelled up with R/G/B etc, so just double check it there too. 3) Its still a chassis fault, Joey is your best bet.
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