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RaoulJuke

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RaoulJuke last won the day on March 9 2021

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    Q-Bert Pinball
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    Mr & Mrs Pacman
    Bad Cats
    Grand Lizard
    Banzai Run
    Creature from the Black Lagoon
    Junkyard
    Star Wars Trilogy
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    Batman 66
    Deadpool
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    F-14 Tomcat
    Earthshaker
    Fish Tales
    Class of 1812
    The Addams Family

    Lowboys, Expo 88 Lowboys, Cocktail Cabs.

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  1. howdy. I've been a pinball guy previously, but have found myself balls deep in arcades as I started working at 1UP Arcade. I've found it really difficult finding a solid contact list of repairer's that can take on PCB repair work, especially for 80's, 90's era games, which we have a really really big amount of. Since kicking back up from Covid, we have gotten about 220 machines running on the floor atm, but we have some real crackers we can't get out. We try to handle some minor board repairs inhouse, which we have had some nice wins with recently, but ultimately we don't have anyone competent enough to attempt a complex repair, especially when involving, more often than not, a really a really rare PCB. We use JoMac where we can & he has been endlessly helpful, despite being a very busy guy. Are there still people around who take on paid PCB repair work?
  2. i am a god. basically the black AC to the fluoro, which then fed back down to the power brick within the same loom was the issue, ie a fault in the fluoro. I just bypassed the fluoro by joining the two adjoining wires & presto! game is back. obviously no fluoro but it was not being utilised. I will look for a new fluoro/led alternative to replace it which is essentially 'plug n play' directly to the AC via the psu. if anyone has a solution there already then please let me know. thanks @wiredoug & @poidapoidafor directions
  3. more updates, following the Black/White AC wires & i think I may have found the culprit. while the white AC wire from the Line Filter goes directly to the plug going into the Power Brick, the black one actually goes to the top of the headbox & provides power to the fluoro, before, i assume, it does a U-turn & comes back down via a black/white wire which then goes into the ac plug, so assume its a fault in the fluoro or the switch which lives inside its casing
  4. updated, tested the male plugs by slipping in the prongs via the anus & getting a slight drop to 105v, so its dropping 90% somewhere between the 2 harness points before the brick.
  5. cheers Doug, was a little weary testing AC without the the knowledge, but checked it at both black/white Ac points before & after the line filter & getting 110v at both ends. it then goes into a harness plug which also testing at 110v, which i have followed down to a 2 wire AC plug which goes into the power brick. when I test that plug I am seeing a drop to 15v. is it safe to assume a compromised wire or an issue at the previous mentioned harness plug, on the 'makes pinned side?
  6. g'day, had a US import Phoenix which was working via a step down. it went off recently & appeared that the psu had failed. replaced it & still no love. tested the AC points on the psu & appears to have no AC readings. replaced the step down to a new one & same issue so have eliminated that. the AC wiring goes to a Line Filter. is it likely a failure there, or possibly the AC cord. still new to arcade repairs so weary of messing about with AC
  7. awesome, is there a website where we can see a full list of official BPAC ran events for 2022?
  8. Gday anyone have 2 spare chamma adapters i can buy off them, or a distributor i can get locally, so i can hook up 6 button action to a pandora dx 3000. Thx in advance
  9. Added info - I just tested it without the SD card installed and i got a blank black screen being projected. The RPi3b+ will hold a solid red LED. With the SD Card reinstalled, the screen is projecting the yellow Bolt in the top left corner again, with the red LED flashing 4 slow, 4fast (8) - then cycling the same pattern again. Its my first attempt at using a RPI so not really sure where to go from here.
  10. Evening fella's - I got a RPI3B+ a couple of months back from Dylan and have only gotten the SD card set up to test on one of my machines. I tested the +5V at the PS & at the Jamma Harnessb and it came in at a solid 5V. When i booted it up tho i got the yellow bolt which generally means its not getting enough power. I slowly upped the voltage and re-tried it & am currently sitting at 5.25V at both the PS & Harness - but still no change in result. I am weary to go any higher than 5.25V as this is the recommended maximum. When we tested this at a mates place a couple of months back we also got the same result, but we didn't adjust the voltage at the time as the SD card was not ready. I have put a known working 60-1 pcb in and that is working fine. Is there anything else i should be checking here? Should i try to up the voltage slightly again to see if any difference? Or do i possibly have a issue with the RPi3B+? its runnings a high speed SDcard, not sure if that is relevant or not. Thanks for any help anyone can offer
  11. Yup, i haven't got them yet so thats kinda hard, but we are getting the measurements etc 😀
  12. I had the Mezel Mod mountain, Donut shop & 2 x police cars on my ol Getaway and i thought it made it a far more attractive machine. my plan was to also add some train set style tree's about, but i sold it before i ever had the chance. Realistically, I still wouldn't have gotten around to it if i kept it. Getaway is such a great game, especially once its modded up with toys and color DMD.. Only game ive sold that i kinda regret Yep seen that too - his looked more like whitewater from memory?
  13. Hey Joey, do u know if u have chassis x 2 available for those Toshibas?
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