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crackedMagnet

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  1. Cool thanks. I’ve got a number of updates to do. I’ll get to them at some stage hopefully soon.
  2. All good just thought if it didn’t realise it ejected 2 balls it would end the ball when the first one drained. Obviously there other logic for that.
  3. Recently I was playing a deadpool machine (Timezone Wellington NZ) and after a few games I load another credit, hit start and 2 balls appeared at the plunger. It didn’t seem to be a random fault as when one of the balls drained it didn’t end the ball but continued playing. Also my gut feeling was the scoring was significantly higher than normal. I think I may have had this occur once before at the start of ball 2 or ball 3 but can’t be certain. I’ve had a search around the internet but I can’t find any reference to this as a feature. I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this? Or even better knows what causes it?
  4. 3d printer? Also if that was worn out with no teeth I'd expect you wouldn't get any force feedback as the cog would just spin. Is this a Sega Rally 1 or Sega Rally 2?
  5. The work on my Sega Rally 2 has extended out a bit to more of a general Sega Model 3 Step 2.0/2.1 repair exercise. I've had to reverse engineer quite a bit of stuff to work out what was going on and couldn't find that information anywhere on the internet. So I thought I'd put together a bit of a guide. It covers quite a bit of stuff and has photos of what happens when various components fail (basically all ram at this stage). It also includes which ones to actually replace (some of the memory test results actually refer to step 1.5 IC's that don't exist on the step 2.0 board). I've also done some reverse engineering on the JTAG bus, its role in boot up failures and some insights on how to interpret the boundary scan results. I've done it as a google doc just to make it easy to update https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fJk50uXJD3gKb5WyHswclzqk4Yij2Vo2vtJsvNPH0VQ/edit?usp=sharing Happy to take any feedback and/or corrections.
  6. Ok finally got around to cleaning the anode cap, hole and surrounding area. Now the visible arching has stopped, and the picture is back to normal (no longer dim). However there is a hissing/fizzing noise which seems to be coming from the anode cap. It might have been there while the arcing was occurring and I never noticed it. The monitor on the other side (of the twin cab) doesn't make this noise. So is this hissing something to be concerned about? If so, any advice on how to resolve it? I've refrained from running the monitor incase it could be causing damage.
  7. Yeah so I'm a Sega Model 3 step 2.0/2.1 video board. Will consider boards with polygon issues but I'm not after completely dead boards. Will also consider entire stacks, especially if they are daytona 2 stacks (I'd even take a pair of those faulty or not). FYI would be shipping to NZ, although I can route through someone near Melbourne if need be.
  8. Hmmmm given it won't power up after the cap kit, I'd recheck the cap kit and confirm all joints are good and you've got them right way around. I'd also check you haven't disturbed another component near a cap as a bad joint could disconnect if the legs get bent. I had a vertical collapse like that once simply because I forgot to plug the board with the size control pots in after I did a cap kit. So if you manage to get it to power up again, I'd check the pots and joints related to them.
  9. Just realised I forgot to tell everyone it actually sold for 11k. But it looks like you've worked that out anyway. Oddly tho now a couple of other machines have popped up. A terminator 2 one and a Simpsons one. Will take that to a new thread if I end up in a buying mood.
  10. Thanks guys I'll give that a go in the next couple of weeks.
  11. Yeah I'll think I'll probably give it a pass. Besides I'm not going to learn munch unless I have to fix something.
  12. All good I've heard it's a good machine. Condition wise here is the link https://www.trademe.co.nz/1394526269 So yeah it's 12 years old and it has a (reserve not met) bid of 9.5k NZD. Which made me wonder what the collector value (aka slow depreciation) might be.
  13. Hey I'm thinking of buying an Adams Family pinball machine. Would be my first pinball machine so just wanted some opinions on if it was a reasonable buy or not. I'd likely be paying $11,000 NZD for it (about $10k AUD), apparently in very very good condition (play field basically perfect), only issue is apparently a couple of lights are out. I'd also have to get it shipped from auckland to wellington, not sure what that will cost but expect it will be at least a couple of hundred. Anyway, is the Adams Family pinball machine a good one to have? And is it actually worth $11k ($10AUD)? Other option is a near new game of thrones one for $10.5k nz, and its local so delivery wouldn't be so much of a problem.
  14. Hey I've had a issue develop with on of the monitors in my sega rally 2. Its a Nanao MS9-29. I recently put a cap kit in it as it took a while to warm up and get focused. First time I powered it after that it was great, came up clear immediately. Anyway today i power it on and it seems focused but is quite dim. then I hear a little click, and after a little bit another one. Anyway powered it off because something wasn't right. powered it back on while standing behind it and there is the occasional arc at the HT sucker cap. Its actually under the cap, or maybe arcing to the very edge. I suspect what has happened is i've managed to scratch that orange paint around the HT cap while discharging the monitor to do the cap kit. Does anyone with more monitor knowledge know if this is likely to be the case? Or any other suggestions as to the cause?
  15. The chip on mine was an OKI m6253. It was the through pin type on mine so reasonably easy to replace. Let me know if you find the problem is the board and it uses that same A/D converter.
  16. First thing i'd check is the input test menu. It should have a hex decimal number for the value of the steering wheel position. The manual should say what the center position value is. I'm suspect that will be ok as its driving straight when the wheel is in the centre. When the power up occurs, the wheel should turn one direction and then snap back to where the force feedback controller thinks is centre (or all the way to the other direction if its not getting a reading). What position does it snap back to? centre or off centre. if its off centre (which it probably will be), and the input sensor value is correct on the input test screen, then its a case of the force feedback controller is detecting a different position than the game. This could be a wiring problem or something wrong with the force feedback controller (the board with the 7 segment displays). The easiest thing you can do is swap the force feedback controllers in the two sides and see if the problem shifts. If so, its definitely something to do with that board. I had one that was faulty on my sega rally 2. It was the D/A converter chip. If yours uses the same chip (quite likely), I've got 4 spare, so I could send you one.
  17. Nice work. Hadn't thought about the output as I assumed the h-sync was being done by the same IC and would have had more picture issues if the h-sync wasn't working. Guess the h-sync is done another way. Might be worth a quick write up in the repair logs incase someone else ends up with the same issue. With regards to the eyes, that is quite strange. If it was a data problem you'd expect only certain chars with no eyes. The other through I had was that potentially the signals were having trouble going low after being high for a while, but that would mean the antenna would have the same problem.
  18. In terms of brightness it could be a couple of things...(People with more experience: If I've got anything factually incorrect here please correct me) I've seen issues where a board has had trouble driving an input causing brightness problems. But in that case it was one of those 15k to vga out converter boards where they had the input impedance at 75ohm. Arcade monitors usually have a much higher impedance (1k-10k or something?). Anyway the result in that case was the RGB lines weren't going all the way to ground, causing a sort of offset. Even though in theory this would have gotten rid of detail when colours where at low intensity it displayed like a brightness problem. You could try put a meter on the RGB lines and get a reading when you've got a completely black screen and see if you've got any significant offset. Given its an arcade monitor (i assume) thats less likely to be the problem. I'm not familiar with the outputs of the 60 in 1 boards on the jamma connector, but i guess its possible they have simply used the same levels as the vga out signals. If thats the case they might be a bit too low to drive the monitor properly. If there is some way to find a completely white screen you might be able to get at least a ballpark with a multimeter of full intensity signal level (it will only be approximate as it will probably go back to black level during the h and v syncs). If it is a bit low, you could use a high slew rate op amp to bring the levels up a little. I've had some blank pcbs printed that will take an SOP-14 op amp that you could wire into the jamma harness. If you need one I can send you couple.
  19. Did that fix it? If not... it looks like there are some lines that go high low at different frequencies. Some of the inputs to the blanking logic IC (6B) are these signals. Looks like they use the fact that they will all be high together at a certain interval (effectively dividing the lowest frequency by a 2^x number) to do some sort of timing. Checking those lines are pulsing at the right frequency would be helpful but i'm not sure how you can do that without a scope.
  20. Ah, right. Not sure exactly what board you've got, but if its the L shaped one I've had a look at the schematics and the first place I'd start looking is an 74LS55 IC named 6B on the schematic. Try the logic probe on pins 1-4 and 10-13 and see if any of them are stuck high or low. The output of that IC (pin 8) is marked as "Comp Blanking" so a reasonable place to start. I'm assuming aside from the vertical rolling the image is otherwise fine?
  21. As i understand it rolling can be a v-sync problem. Does the output to the monitor have seperate h-sync and v-sync or a composite sync? Generally you can tell by the number of wires, 5 wires for composite sync (RGB, GND, Sync), 6 wires for seperate sync (RGB, GND, v-sync, h-sync). Also do you know which board type you have? And do you have access to an oscilloscope?
  22. Hey, just thought I'd mention I went up to my old mans place this weekend. Anyway turns out he has an Konami ES500, which I think is the same system you've got, although its a different cabinet type to yours (one of the full upright ones). Its hopper looks completely different to yours, but I thought i'd have a look anyway to see if I could learn more about how it works. Anyway, on the back plane there is a connector marked CNB11 its a 10 pin connector. If fiddling around with the boards made it come back momentarily its possible its just loose. Looks like this (i've disconnected the cable so its easier to see the connector) I can confirm pin 2 should be ground. Anyway I pulled open the hopper to see what we could be dealing with and if it was a simple case of wires for the motor, coin output sensor and hopper full sensor. Turns out its not as simple as that. This hopper has a PIC processor in it. Basically these are programmable chips and it looks like the ES500 communicates to the pic chip and the pic chip does all the work. What this means is this is going to be a little difficult to diagnose without a scope. Having said that your hopper looks different and might work differently. Might be helpful if you could pull the hopper out and take pictures of it and its connector, note down any model number or manufacturer. If you know anyone else with a machine thats the same (or at least has the same hopper), see if you can borrow their hopper, as then we would know if its the hopper or something else. The hopper i'm looking at is a "Money Controls Universal Hopper, MK4". Also another question, have you done a RAM reset at some stage? Because if you have there may be hopper type settings in there that could potentially cause an issue.
  23. If they lights aren't chained together its possible they don't have a common ground. I've not worked with these particular machines before. The issue you've got is, unless you are certain a ground wire is actually a ground wire, there's a good chance of blowing something up if you tie a line you though was ground to ground when in fact it wasn't. You'll probably need to have someone look at it or at least someone on here with a working knowledge of those machines to help.
  24. Might just need the gun sight setup or something. There are instructions to do that on page 6 of the manual. http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/ARCADE/K-R/Point%20Blank%20[Operator%27s]%20[English].pdf
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