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crackedMagnet

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  1. Cool thanks. I’ve got a number of updates to do. I’ll get to them at some stage hopefully soon.
  2. All good just thought if it didn’t realise it ejected 2 balls it would end the ball when the first one drained. Obviously there other logic for that.
  3. Recently I was playing a deadpool machine (Timezone Wellington NZ) and after a few games I load another credit, hit start and 2 balls appeared at the plunger. It didn’t seem to be a random fault as when one of the balls drained it didn’t end the ball but continued playing. Also my gut feeling was the scoring was significantly higher than normal. I think I may have had this occur once before at the start of ball 2 or ball 3 but can’t be certain. I’ve had a search around the internet but I can’t find any reference to this as a feature. I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this? Or even better knows what causes it?
  4. 3d printer? Also if that was worn out with no teeth I'd expect you wouldn't get any force feedback as the cog would just spin. Is this a Sega Rally 1 or Sega Rally 2?
  5. The work on my Sega Rally 2 has extended out a bit to more of a general Sega Model 3 Step 2.0/2.1 repair exercise. I've had to reverse engineer quite a bit of stuff to work out what was going on and couldn't find that information anywhere on the internet. So I thought I'd put together a bit of a guide. It covers quite a bit of stuff and has photos of what happens when various components fail (basically all ram at this stage). It also includes which ones to actually replace (some of the memory test results actually refer to step 1.5 IC's that don't exist on the step 2.0 board). I've also done some reverse engineering on the JTAG bus, its role in boot up failures and some insights on how to interpret the boundary scan results. I've done it as a google doc just to make it easy to update https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fJk50uXJD3gKb5WyHswclzqk4Yij2Vo2vtJsvNPH0VQ/edit?usp=sharing Happy to take any feedback and/or corrections.
  6. Ok finally got around to cleaning the anode cap, hole and surrounding area. Now the visible arching has stopped, and the picture is back to normal (no longer dim). However there is a hissing/fizzing noise which seems to be coming from the anode cap. It might have been there while the arcing was occurring and I never noticed it. The monitor on the other side (of the twin cab) doesn't make this noise. So is this hissing something to be concerned about? If so, any advice on how to resolve it? I've refrained from running the monitor incase it could be causing damage.
  7. Yeah so I'm a Sega Model 3 step 2.0/2.1 video board. Will consider boards with polygon issues but I'm not after completely dead boards. Will also consider entire stacks, especially if they are daytona 2 stacks (I'd even take a pair of those faulty or not). FYI would be shipping to NZ, although I can route through someone near Melbourne if need be.
  8. Hmmmm given it won't power up after the cap kit, I'd recheck the cap kit and confirm all joints are good and you've got them right way around. I'd also check you haven't disturbed another component near a cap as a bad joint could disconnect if the legs get bent. I had a vertical collapse like that once simply because I forgot to plug the board with the size control pots in after I did a cap kit. So if you manage to get it to power up again, I'd check the pots and joints related to them.
  9. Just realised I forgot to tell everyone it actually sold for 11k. But it looks like you've worked that out anyway. Oddly tho now a couple of other machines have popped up. A terminator 2 one and a Simpsons one. Will take that to a new thread if I end up in a buying mood.
  10. Thanks guys I'll give that a go in the next couple of weeks.
  11. Yeah I'll think I'll probably give it a pass. Besides I'm not going to learn munch unless I have to fix something.
  12. All good I've heard it's a good machine. Condition wise here is the link https://www.trademe.co.nz/1394526269 So yeah it's 12 years old and it has a (reserve not met) bid of 9.5k NZD. Which made me wonder what the collector value (aka slow depreciation) might be.
  13. Hey I'm thinking of buying an Adams Family pinball machine. Would be my first pinball machine so just wanted some opinions on if it was a reasonable buy or not. I'd likely be paying $11,000 NZD for it (about $10k AUD), apparently in very very good condition (play field basically perfect), only issue is apparently a couple of lights are out. I'd also have to get it shipped from auckland to wellington, not sure what that will cost but expect it will be at least a couple of hundred. Anyway, is the Adams Family pinball machine a good one to have? And is it actually worth $11k ($10AUD)? Other option is a near new game of thrones one for $10.5k nz, and its local so delivery wouldn't be so much of a problem.
  14. Hey I've had a issue develop with on of the monitors in my sega rally 2. Its a Nanao MS9-29. I recently put a cap kit in it as it took a while to warm up and get focused. First time I powered it after that it was great, came up clear immediately. Anyway today i power it on and it seems focused but is quite dim. then I hear a little click, and after a little bit another one. Anyway powered it off because something wasn't right. powered it back on while standing behind it and there is the occasional arc at the HT sucker cap. Its actually under the cap, or maybe arcing to the very edge. I suspect what has happened is i've managed to scratch that orange paint around the HT cap while discharging the monitor to do the cap kit. Does anyone with more monitor knowledge know if this is likely to be the case? Or any other suggestions as to the cause?
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