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Autosteve last won the day on July 8

Autosteve had the most liked content!

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  • State
    Barden Ridge NSW
  • Machines in your collection
    Getaway pinball, AC/DC pinball, Arcade Slated Pool table, Taito Defender Upright cab, Taito 20" cocktail table, and a Sapphire 3 reel poker machine

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  1. I'd continue using your 19mm pine. I thought you'd have trouble mounting the joystcks and buttons through such a thickness but it actually looks quite ideal. As for your button locations, put the panel on as you expect it to go, grab the joystick with your left hand and watch how your right hand moves in front of your stomach to reach the buttons. It should now become apparient why straight lines of buttons suk when your right hand is on such an angle as are your fingertips. That is why you put the buttons off center to suit your finger tip locations but don't need to reach for any button, your hand moves back and your fingers land on the lower level of buttons. This isn't an issue with a wide CP with a large space between the joystick and buttons because your arms can stay near paralell but a small CP where your arms have to come together, different story. How opposed are you at having the 1 and 2 player start buttons on the top panel rather than on the vertical seperate panel?. I say that because if you take the vertical edge off and just run the horizontal, (sort of), panel you can use clamps to hold the panel in place with no hinges. That is how Taito mounted there panels. The wood on the cabinet above your coin door looks idea for mounting the locating strip of steel. The locating piece of metal bolts paralell to the top of the coin door on the inside of the cabinet. Metal is about 3mm thick flatbar is about the same width as the metal you have there now but is about twice the depth. You mount it as you have the metal you are using however being twice as deep, you leave about 10mm above your wood so now you have a 10mm X 3mm piece of flatbar sticking up from the wood. On the bottom face of your CP you route out a 10mm deep channel the width of the steel plate. Now you can drop the CP on top and when the slot you routed out in the underside of the CP and the metal flatbar line up, the panel will drop in place exactly the same every time. The control panel cannot move forward or back, the flatbar in the slotted groove prevents it. . The CP can't slide off sideways, the cabinet walls prevent that so all you need to do is hold it down, Taito used clamps. After working on Taitos for years and then going across to LAI cabs with there bolted down CPs, I know what I prefered to work on CP wise. Taito, open coin door and release the two clamps. Took about 30 seconds and you could lift off the CP. LAI, grab the allen head and start unscrewing the dozen or so 4mm bolts that always had a habit of stripping there heads. I put up a picture of the underside of a Taito CP panel if your not sure what I mean if you want to go that way. One thing I must say, it is totally up to you the way you build your cabinet. Every man and his dog tried making cabinets and selling them over the years and some where successful, others were rubbish. Rubbish as in fell apart, where flimsy, to hard to work on regularly or left you with a handful of bolts waiting to get lost. These are suggestions I put up here with what I liked so don't feel compelled.
  2. About the plywood. First off when you cut it to size, put a shit piece of wood clamped to the underside you intended piece, ( so now you are cutting two pieces of wood), and now you'll get a good clean cut top and bottom of your top piece. Now this bit is optional with plywood... Sand the cut edged gently just in case there are some tiny rough pieces and now the choice is yours depending on the finish your after... Paint the endgrain with normal paint, lacquer, wood glue. Selleys liquid nails if it's living in the sun outdoors in the weather or you just never want that plywood ever de-laminating. It doesn't need to look pretty as you sand it when it drys and applying liquid nails, put a bit on the edge and just run your thumb along it so it gets forced in the endgrain and keep it a very fine layer..... I love plywood because it is so light for it's strength and screws don't rip out of it real easy. These are the tips I have learnt using it. As for your existing control panel, what's wrong with it in the pine?. Looks pretty good to me. I would have done the buttons in a circular offset layout rather than two dead straight rows but that is up to you. Circular offset buttons layout suits smaller CPs better we always thought. Left arm is joystick and the player "generally" holds that square to there body. Right arm however is buttons and players "generally" hold that arm on an angle to contact the buttons, (on a small CP). Now your fingers are on an angle and you locate your buttons accordingly. Totally up to you but that is how we did it and some of the other manufactures did it back in the day. Are you clamping the CP to the cabinet, bolting it or how?.
  3. CP is control panel? How about a picture of what you want...Why 19mm. If your making the control panel out of 19mm anything you'll have troubles mounting your parts in it. Give us a picture and we'll find a solution.
  4. I put the freshly painted media center facia panel back on the media center module... A slight bit of wiring alterations as well as the paint but not that different. Light blue circle.... On and safe turn off button. ( come out of some old TV that died but looked to nice and looked easy to put in something else one day. I was right. Swapped the original LEDs behind the "angle eye" of the switch for 2 blue and 2 red LEDs.....Blue lights to tell media center is on. Activity on the RPi makes the red flash briefly. Switch at the back is a micro mounted on a Taito switch bracket) Yellow circle..... red pushbutton is a reset for the RPi's processor. ( doesn't get used much because this RPi is quite happy doing what I have it doing but if you have an RPi that loves to lockup, you need one of these. If I ever suspect a lockup I look at that Activity LED and if it doesn't flash for about 10 seconds, pretty safe to push it to unlock a locked up RPi. Much safer to electronically reset an RPi than kill the power to it and reapply and if that Activity LED isn't flashing, the SD card isn't reading or writing). Dark blue circle.... Left is a blank, right is the IR receiver for the Xbox 1 remote I use to control the thing. I also use a wireless RC keyboard and it's receiever is in one of the RPis USB ports. Gotta have both. The IR remote is great for kicking back watching a movie in the recliner but the keyboard, well, it just better. Pink circle....that is the style 3amp 5volt regulators I use on heaps of 5volt stuff including running this RPi media center. Bought a heap of them. $7...how can you go wrong?. 9-40 volt in and a lovely smooth 5 volt DC out. The one that powers this media center is under the RPi itself. Back view...look for the arcade and pinball parts.😁 Now the games module attaches. And that slides up inside the radio/amp wall mounted box. The radio is now a double D sized Sony touch unit but this picture shows just the radio box attached to the post. The wood the RPi is mounted on by the way is a drawer and has matching rails inside the box so it goes in the same way every time on the rails. You slide the board partially in, connect the 5 connectors and slide it fully inside the box exposing just the pretty clear paint job I did on the media center and games module face plates.... The RPi does miss the radio and the 60 in one game board does miss the front charging ports.. A Russian doll like I said. Now to make a transporting box for it.
  5. Funny history with your 3 pins, Who Dunnit, Fish Tales and World cup Soccer 94....Each one of them had a drama when they were either made or sold. Fish Tales...... was the first pinball LAI sold after importing where the operator could pay it off rather than cash up front. Rumour has it they had 3 containers of them and they weren't moving because the market for Fish Tales was saturated. Very popular machine that earnt very well. Every operator had at least one. We had about 8 state wise.That fish on the top had nearly the impact on earnings as the Addams' hand. World Cup Soccer 94......was supposed to be made in a supa pin size but was redesigned late in production back into a normal cab. I think it would have done quite well as a supa cab because it has a lot going on mech wise and is a little cramped but that is my opinion. It was always regarded as a bad omen dating a pinball in it's title. Supposed to shorten it's earning life carrying a date in machine's name. Who Dunnit....Another one LAI had trouble moving. Supposedly to different...Probably why I liked it but they had trouble moving them. Again, rumour has it they dropped the price around $2000 NIB to move them. I think your got yourself 3 pearlers. The first two earned great money, not so much Who Dunnit but each game is different and all have a different appeal.
  6. https://youtu.be/StcXGhuliRk?t=129 One day I'll work how to display videos.🥵
  7. Pretty close to finishing this machine. Reminds me of one of those Russian dolls that stack inside each other. This last level containing the 60 in one that goes inside the RPi media center and it goes inside radio, amplifier box which is attached to the wall similar to those wall mount jukeboxes you may or may not have seen. The whole unit is module in design so sections can be removed for modifications or repairs without needing the whole to be removed while leaving the other modules still functioning. This is the 60 in one module. All you see is the wood face of the bottom edge. The rest sides inside. Red circle is the 5vDC power supply Yellow circle is the 2 channel sound amplifier Green circles are the VGA connectors that go off to the 1 and 2 player control panels Dark blue circle is the on/off button to turn the game on and off. Clear plastic that lights up blue when the game board is turned on. Light blue circle is the test button. It was a hole you push a rod through to work the switch but I did change that to a pushbutton switch level with the ON/ OFF. The only connections to this game board module are a 12voltDC supply with DC connectors and a VGA cable to the monitor which is mounted on the wall. External connections are the VGA cables that go off to the controller boxes, one for each player and each contoller box has a speaker for the game board's sound. I used VGA connectors and cables for this job because they are still pretty easy to get, are cheap, are 15 circuits each and can be disconnected from either end but screw together making a fine connection. The VGA cables I bought are 5 meter so the players can sit in one of the reclining chairs rather than sitting at the table. The sound board being two channel come in handy here as I wanted sound not using the radio/ amp box' amp like the RPi and the radio use. It had to be seperate game board sound and I also wanted sound to come out if one or both game controllers were plugged in. The 60 in one game board has a sound output via a 3.5mm plug stereo plug as well as the sound output from the jamma. Difference is via the jamma it is one channel mono where as the 3.5mm is 2 channel mono. Unfortunately, the 3.5mm output isn't amped so in went the external amplifier. The power supply for this 60 in one game module is a 5volt 5 amp device feed from the 12v. Slight overkill on that part seeing as the gameboard only uses 1/2amp max. Might alter that using a 5amp one on the RPi and use a 3amp one I use on the RPi on the game board but the RPi is powered all the time and I know the 3amp ones do that like they have for the last 3 years. The RPi is never turned fully off, only standby so the regulators are never actually turned off. Once the 5amp prove themselves I may swap them over. The 60 in one module attaches to the bottom face of this, the RPi module face. It come back for some alterations mainly the clear lacquer paint to match the radio/amp module. It was previously unpainted. Now all 3 parts match paint wise. This is just the face plate prior to installing the the hardware....
  8. I read in that link from @wiredoug the rom swap they talk about mods the game with a timed skillshot, not real sure if that is checkable but it also mentions the mini playfield now has lane change when in use which the original roms do not. Should be easy enough to check if it does have these Home Roms.
  9. Your the man if that turns out to be the problem @wiredoug . Be hanging to see this Jungle Lord get the @Dedrok treatment and this most frustrating bullshit problem comes up. Oww well, all good things take time. I say frustrating because it really is a problem that shouldn't exist.
  10. Yes if they work in attract mode, that confirms the wiring, bulbs and sockets are all good back to the board as far as I can see. What does it do when you put the machine in lamp matrix test?. They still work correctly like in attract mode?. Found some sweet play cards though....
  11. Those lights on the mini playfield are controlled by the lamp matrix according to the diagram. They call them "mini playfiled illumination" on the lamp matrix diagram so I asume that would be the lights that aren't working correctly? Funny they use a number of drives to run the collection of bulbs that all make up the mini playfiled illumination. These are the matrix lamp numbers.... 24....it drives two bulbs 32 38 47 48 K1 special relay looks like it does just contol all the GI like you suspected but it is broken in two circuits all feed from the one 20amp fuse. One circuit is lower playfield and the other is upper and cabinet. These two circuits are after the relay Not sure how you'll view this on your phone but... https://www.ipdb.org/files/1338/Williams_1981_Jungle_Lord_Manual.pdf Let me know if you need the wire colours to the bulbs. not listed on the JK diagram.
  12. I'm thinking it may have the earlier style power supply board fitted. Should have the GI relay mounted on PS board itself rather than an external relay on a seperate board like that used on Blackout.
  13. Question for you. What Williams was the first to have the scores that strobed slowly to indicate what player was playing?. I'm thinking Black Knight but not sure if it was Alien Poker or Algar? They all flash till you score but this slow strobing went on through the whole ball whenever you hadn't score for a couple of seconds. Any ideas?.
  14. I'd locate the knocker in the head. Couple of reasons. Less wire and less connections. No need for the spring or a plunger with the spring keeper. Any nylon tipped plunger will do and it all works on gravity. Basically, less to go wrong. Apart from these reasons, I do love a loud knocker and the backglass does nothing to quiten them unlike in the cabinet. Pretty sure earlier Sterns did have it mounted here but if not have a look where the knocker is mounted on Ballys like Mata Hari.
  15. The wires to the fish coil broke regularly when the games were getting over 6-700 games a week. Simple solution for wires breaking through fatigue at a solder joint is form a spring in the wire. I had this shown to me many moons ago but I thank that guy, long dead now. Grab a pen and twist the wire around it a couple of times to form a spring shape. Not to many twists or the extra weight of the wire will work against your intention. Now solder the wire on. The wire suddenly stops breaking. Magic.
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