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Autosteve last won the day on May 18

Autosteve had the most liked content!

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  • State
    Barden Ridge NSW
  • Machines in your collection
    Getaway pinball, AC/DC pinball, Arcade Slated Pool table, Taito Defender Upright cab, Taito 20" cocktail table, and a Sapphire 3 reel poker machine

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  1. It's what you can't see here.....night time Blackhawk formation flying. 3 choppers at night time using night vision only. Seems to be nothing for months on end and then one night this goes on for a couple of following nights. They do around 5 runs over two hours each night. Pretty cool actually. We go out to watch but you only get glimpses of them. Not much flys around here normally as it is no fly zone so close to the reactor except if your military and Holsworthy Base is just down the road where the Blackhawks come from. No fly zone till the fires come then it's a circus in the sky as it looks like everything that can carry a bucket of water is in the sky trying to stop Menai from burning to the ground, again.
  2. "Chrome" doors look sweet and a vast improvement over stock. Just wondering if anyone has had pinball coin doors to a panelbeater yet to get the dents out of damaged ones?
  3. Yep, Williams liked to use the self adhesive mylar bumper protectors where as Gottlieb just laid there ones on the playfield to do the same job. All Williams I have ever owned even for a short time had the Williams part replaced for the non adhesive Gottlieb part. Heat build up around the bumper area would cause the self adhesive to partially release causing the mylar protector to bow up and active the bumper skirt switch from underneath it........Here is some pictures I took of a TimeWarp showing exactly what I'm taking about and what I suspect you have experienced yourself. A close look and you can see none of the 5 bumper shirts are sitting correctly but the two on the left shows it perfectly..... I suppose a blackened light bulb in the bumper creates a lot of heat that by design can't escape except through the bumper ring holes at the base of the bumper housing. Heat goes out through this only location it can and heats up the adhesive. If Williams used a one shot circuit on there "special drive" coils we wouldn't be seeing this but no, the switch closes and the coil remains powered till it cooks.
  4. Yep, gotta put fuses in to protect against shorted bridges. Rather change a fuse if the bridge shorts than the transformer. System 3-6), well worth putting in lower value fuses on smaller strings powering the coils as well. These machines have a habit of driving all the coils on occasionally from a bad boot up.... Seen this on many of this era Williams. Common machines for this happening were World Cup, Hot Tip, Flash, Stellar Wars, Time Warp and to a lesser degree, Firepower but all System 3-6 were quite capable of destroying themselves like this. Irony is you could pull out a driver board with a big hole burnt in it and replace with a perfectly working one and the problem would appear to be gone. Over time you come back and your perfectly working board has another big hole burnt through it. This is about the best explanation I have seen why this happens..... https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/QCPGf72Ekr8 The coils all get stressed but the usual outcome is a big hole burnt in the driver board.
  5. Have you checked you still have 12vDC getting to the board?. The 12vDC is used for the sound amp and usually the coin meter drive but that doesn't stop the machine from working, it just takes out the sound and the meter drive and often the coin insert lights.
  6. Excellent research and overcoming the problems any project throws up. Here's some data you may like to read in regards to MCAs we did back in the day. When MCAs started coming out fitted on any LAI product, I didn't like them. Compared to the Taito joysticks we were using exclusively at the time, the MCAs just seemed way to hard however like all operators back then I would imagine, we tested them on site. The feedback was around 50- 50 but it didn't seem to effect revenue so we started using them as a spare part. we bought boxes of them in all colours and used both styles you pictured. The long stem went in our Taito panels as they always had a plywood backing around 10mm thick. The short stem went in anything that just had a sheet metal control panel. They were quoted back then as lasting the life of the machine but the life on something like a SFII turned out to be only around 6 months. SFII was rather unique consistently earning around $4-600 a week so throwing in new rubbers, we had bags of them as well, when they started to fail was ideal considering the old Taitos had around 40 parts compared the the MCA having around 10. The Taitos were also very high maintenance with multiple parts wearing at different rates but Taito also didn't actually make an 8 way controller. They were two or 4 way and had to be modified. The fleet was slowly converted to MCA but problems started showing up with the "Swan" brand micro switches MCA insisted on using. They were rather hard to activate and rather short lived operations wise compared to the "Omron" Japanese micros we still had boxes of as spare Taito parts. We started swapping the Swans out replacing with the Omrons and this made the joysticks a little less hard to active but also extended the micro operations life expectancy.
  7. Sounds like your machine thinks it's a Williams System 3.😄 6821 is the only common link I can think of that could drive all the coil drives on. Sounds like the under playfield coil fuse was a tad higher than the recommended 1 amp maybe?.
  8. Terminals 3 and 5 on your transformer......check the internal transformer winding solder joint on both those terminals. Both look a bit dodgy and if either go open, no output. The link itself looks OK but the windings to the other end of those tabs you may want to check. By the way, you did check the line cord and plug?. Wouldn't be the first transformer suspected because of a ripped out wire in the mains plug
  9. Button inputs should switch to ground. Should be one wire to one side of the switches that is ground and usually common to every switch. You push any button and that wire to that switch should connect to that common ground. Don't put any other voltage on these wires or it could result in tears. I wouldn't be connecting a multimeter directly to multiple input pins because a multimeter to do a continuity test puts voltage in to test the circuit and these inputs are strictly designed to be grounded only.
  10. I'd love to see under the playfield of one myself. Most like to see the art and play the game but I really like seeing how they work.
  11. https://wallpaperaccess.com/war-of-the-worlds No shortage of pictures for this title.
  12. Something pre made in the way of a board set would take away the dramas involved with developing your own electronics. More than enough building a Homebrew without doing all the electronics as well. Also need to consider if you ever sell a HomeBrew, better to be able to say it uses XXXXX brand board set that you can buy from YYYY than saying it is totally my own designed electronics and you'll need to back engineer the electronics to fix it.
  13. Are you sure the blade is not a separate piece to that you solder to?. Sometimes they are separate pieces of copper that rely on there surfaces to touch for continuity. Works fine till the crap gets in between the two surfaces
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