Autosteve

Need to push the top door down fully to make a switch or no go......Common problem on PS1s well in combination with the open disc lid button. Might also be a good idea to see if the power supply is outputting any power?. Lightning takes them out.

Another letter from the NSW Local Land Services just like the one regarding the feral pigs only this time about Wild Dogs and there wish for local residence to "get involved" in the Wild Dog Baiting Program. They want residence to put down 10-80 baits after doing a course you pay for at some place miles away and for that they supply the 10-80 poison free. Course involves the safe handling of the 10-80 and well, never heard of the need for a course regarding handling any poison and I can go an buy 10-80 from the local produce store and no coarse needed, just pay and the poison is yours. Hmmmm, poison........ Don't eat it, use gloves and wash your hands.......pretty common sense I'd of thought but someone has thought of a way of making money. Not a fan of 10-80 on account everything eats it and I don't like the logic if everything is dead, we don't have a wild dog problem any longer do we. Seems they need permission to use the 10-80 on your property as things stand ATM and I figure if I don't use it or get involved with this program, my goannas for one will continue living. Was having a discussion with a guy the other day regarding gum trees and the question come up, What other animals in Australia actually eat eucalyptus leaves like a koala but like a koala, only eat these leave in there diet?. Come up in a hypothetical regarding the gums and how much different Australia would be if the gums were removed and replaced with non flammable imported trees. The hypothetical was what do we do when the world gets the shits with Australia burning off the gum in our bushfire prevention programs?

Good choice of mech Trev. I never had one of those mechs fail. Just a simple reliable mech that everyone else seemed to stuff up. Pretty clever what makes it so much better. The trough exit kicker kicks the ball sideways into the shooter lane rather than using the normal under playfield hanging hole kicker mech and the wireform attached separates the 1st and 2nd ball momentarily as the 1st ball ejects. This wireform means no matter what part of the sequence of multiball, the trough eject kicker only has the weight of one ball to move. When the wireform separates the 1st and 2nd ball, it can glance the 2nd ball's face causing that 2nd ball to push back up the ramp and it or the 3rd ball go back into the outhole. That is the job of the top of trough one way gate.

If it was painted white instead of red it looks near identical to a photo machine we trialed. It had a tubular steel frame mounted to the top that held a curtain. Maybe look around the head and see if it has any mounting points the frame would have been attached to. Look in the cash box for a serial number?

The car wreckers is my main source of speakers for both pinballs and arcades. They are rarely missing from the wrecks and are not in demand so quite often they will give then to you. Match the ohms to suit your needs and the watts are often 10-20 watts which is exactly what your after unless you have an external amp. Grab a couple and use the best ones.

Was an excellent event. Got to meet some old friends and made a few new ones. Machines on show, some of them were old friends as in ones I personally owned 2, 3 or 4 decades ago when there was no interest in personal pinballs. To all those involved, thanks for the memories guys.

Not sure I'd bother altering it. I was more into what works the longest and was easiest to work on rather than cosmetics as was my attitude to all things arcade. Getting rid of the dust laying on the chassis I would say has more impact than what your tracers look like but that is totally up to you. Looking forward to see how the aqua cab goes. Not that many of them around as most were reds or purples. You need any parts for it? I took a lot of Taito out of my 12 volt Taito cab when I built it and it was an aqua cab.

Nice job. Repairs look excellent. It's high voltage....can't have to much copper if you ask me regarding the 1mm copper. Did you think of changing the other pots? I suppose our purpose of our Taitos was more a generic cab which involved swapping game boards regularly and therefore always adjusting the chassis settings but I remember thinking exactly that, why the hell didn't they use "finger adjustable pots" instead of these things you need a plastic tool that always seemed to be the one tool you always lost. Just a thought. Top left hand corner of the parts side are 3 fuses. The black box standing up, the white creamy round thing and the black thing with the yellow dot all give trouble, can't remember exactly what each did now but they were common replacement parts. They were used in the de-guasser circuit and this was often bypassed because of always replacing these parts so often. The de-gause switch inside the front door could handle the job without the circuitry......relay....... on the chassis so the wiring was often altered in the tube/ chassis plug. Might explain why if your de-gause doesn't work..........this mod you will not find in the manual, it was ex- factory. Not all were done. Wired in such a way it didn't blow anything up no matter what chassis you put in, modded wiring or not, you will just spend hours wondering why it may not work but the circuit itself is perfect. The wiring in the plug is altered.

Defense Command was a pirate version of Williams Defender. Same game in every respect playing except the game title displayed. Deep down the pirate is more reliable, takes up less room and is both an upright and a table board selectable via one dip switch. The Williams board set requires another board for table use. Worked on heaps of both and took the pirate for my own use. Just less problems.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/20#post-5816302 You may like a pretty one?

He bought the machine with it broken a couple of years ago so the whirlpool feature has never worked while he has owned it. It's one in his collection I have never worked on as the deal was when or if I found one, I rebuild the machine like I did on a few in his collection a couple of years ago. Should be good, never torn a BR to pieces before. Worked on heaps but not torn one down. Never operated them and when I've worked on one it was only "get it working" not make it look pretty. I'd like to do his Time Warp again but the fing thing won't break. I quite liked TW with it's banana flippers although his was made a generic flipper machine, still a cool machine.

Someone is rather happy to now have one.......😁 Well my auto electrician mate is anyway.

Need your sleep or you might get something like this said to you........ 045-Centaur.wav

WPC style flipper mechs as opposed to original Bally linear flipper mechs. Hard to believe Bally went from one of the most reliable SS flipper mechs to the one that required the most maintenance simply changing a couple of parts.

We sold new Taitos with them but those we operated, any trouble and we swapped them for generic switch modes. The Taitos PSs were rated at either 5amp or 7 amps on the +5vDC depending on the model. Both were marginal current wise on many of the later games. You also needed a host of different rated fuses for the Taito PSs where as the generics, no fuses required at all. The Taitos had to be fed 100vac where as the generics were 110 or 240vAC selectable. The +12vDC isn't adjustable on the generics however, it is only used on the coin label illumination, some sound boards, coin meters and if fitted, electronic coin mechs and none of these required a perfect +12vDC. Both PSs were easy to repair back then but the generics were cheap and plentiful to get hold of as every operator used them, they were the industry standard. Ease of maintenance however, the generics won hands down. The modification was pretty straight forward, cut off the Taito "B" connector and replace with either Eye or Forked Spade connectors.