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shaneo

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Everything posted by shaneo

  1. 5V present at the driver brd = fault on board. No 5V indicates fault elsewhere.
  2. IO boards are serviceable. I replaced the coil 6 driving N-ch mosfet's on 2 of my boards this evening using a good re-work setup. Avrdude will take care of the PIC32 aspect. Big prob with these games is the lamp & power boards. Traces so thin you dare not look at them. Right flipper would not work last night, traces inspected good visually, meter said otherwise. Fault was an open cct between a set of through hole pads. No component- just crap manufacturing. These things are junk.
  3. Jaycar ZD1945 for the transmitter & ZD1950 for the receiver. Installed a few weeks ago & still working in WPC's & Capcom's. Flamin' pricey @ a buck 50 ea but when in a pinch..
  4. Good engineering W. Got any hair left after all the shenanigans, and have you got any Full Throttle PF parts? No T-Bag here. I remember the pens that didn't work, fuses that didn't fit...
  5. Timebandit has done the addressable LED's & standup switches w/ better LED's. Top quality kit. Inductor switches about. The IO boards can be easily sorted with Avrdude if/when the PIC32 bootloader "disappears". I sorted that one. Detailed component analysis of IO boards is done - not me. Big or little mosfets usual suspects. Persons unknown may have Gerber files for these. PC's easy to get/replace. Plastics available, LCD's too. P-Roc port when cows come home. 98,000 lines of code in "other game". Alien way more.
  6. I've got a couple of flyers you are welcome to if you end up with it.
  7. Can't help with that info sorry. Mate has the jewellery cleaner while I have the .357 Magnum shell polisher. I did see him put Aldi paving cleaner in it once. A bit of dish liquid and a Chux will get me a result the same as he gives me.
  8. Most parts now cleaned & tumbled, looms cleaned, canon complete & working, ramps & subways unbroken, plastics good but not pertfect, translite not great, cab is bad, legs are bad, coin door bad. I started on the PF but still plenty to do. Complete set of boards, driver will need work due to a flasher short on my STTNG they were swapped, CPU has had ULN2803 removed but was working - I should have a replacement darlington around, DMD has a line out far most right side. Game needs reassembly. It is fully dismantled. Pics tell the story and too many to post here so they are at https://imgur.com/a/7dmRA61 Fix it, part it out and flog the canon for 500 bucks, or burn it, I don't care. I want it gone. Gone.
  9. Clean parts first using ultrasonic (rinse & dry immediately, else plating can become etched), then into the tumbler. When done, another quick dip in the ultrasonic and again rinse & dry. You don't want shiite getting into your tumbling media which then needs to be buffed off the parts and the media replaced often. Walnut shells & a Lyeman 2500 here, but remember, you can't polish a turd so if there is etching on the parts bin 'em.
  10. Road Show has a lot of wit and humour and much of it is really offensive by today's standards. Running down multicultural taxi drivers, ripping off folks at the trading post, shooting balls into Red's mouth, being drunk trying to outrun police (Steve Richie), wide body, 4 flippers, 2 plungers, flying rocks, frozen people, a shaker motor that actually fits with the game, Carlene Carter as the voice of Red and she adds a lot of character. Had mine for years and it's still my go to game and I played it for a couple hours tonight.
  11. Keen to see you you deal with the cupped/raised inserts. My Flash has same. Currently lots of wax on cupped and clamped down the raised arrows. Mine will never leave collection.
  12. Always a wanker isn't there? You PM'd me sport, asking I had a RBION and was I willing to part with it. My reply was maybe and I would post some pics for you to look at. That's as far as the comms went. Nothing further. No negs/offers. That's it. I have no obligation to some tyre kicker from the internet (meaning you boastlow) Pics were posted when convenient to me not you. My machine - not yours. My time - not yours. No more of my collection will be offered publicly here. I've been here on AA for 10 years, but it's clowns such as you that have turned this into a gossip and rumor scene, rather than one for enthusiasts to share information/techniques/swap geat/organise meets. BTW - exacly how many meets have you hosted or been a part of? Have you made any significant contributions to the scene? Do tell? I won't delve into personal insults as you have, but would you like me to call your momma to take you home?
  13. Thanks to the many who have enquired about list/sale prices by PM or other means. I won't be disclosing these, nor the buyers identity as that would constitute a breach of trust between that party and I. Besides, it's none of your fkn business.
  14. RBION One of the great Whitestars. Display good no lines or signs of outgassing. No hacks on PCB's. Ramps good- no cracks, reasonably clear, PF good, magnets good, play's good. Full set brand new plastics with key chain fobs. Has wear around flipper buttons - covered with button protectors. Some wear on front and usual scuffs on solid cab. Wear around scoop. Had it covered with a Ciffy but too many air ball so bogged it up. Translite no noticeable marks. Sold pending payment. Pics http://imgur.com/a/HJ6Afhttp:// Pinball Magic Crazy challenging game. I don't need to re-spruik how good a game it is. Ramps clear and unbroken. Stage doors intact. Cab has some marks/scuffs - anything shows in artwork this detailed. Transllite has very few marks. Only thing I noticed about PF is the 1cm wear at the stage entrance on the magicians wrist. Some new plastics as shown. Board sets clean. Display has 1 missing column @126 but otherwiswe nice and crisp. Sold pending payment. Pics http://imgur.com/a/VC4nG Grand Prix (Stern) Another Whitestar. I like this example. Same game as Nascar and Dale Jr. Different art and ROM's of course. It's setup nice and fast and has long ball times. No wear I could see on the PF. One small mark left of RH sling - someone may have use a screw too long from under the PF. Board set clean with no hacks. Ramps clear and unbroken, same with plastics. Cab has limited scuffs and is solid, same with translite. Withdrawn Pics http://imgur.com/a/gn419
  15. Pinball LED's are all manufactured in China and they are actually vehicle indicator/interior bulbs etc. They have not been designed and manufactured specifically for pinball use. I've been buying mine from aliexpress for years. Prices are crazy cheap as you are usually buying direct from the manufacturer and they are usually here in a week. Some to arrive here last week were 10* 12 LED bayonet flashers delivered for 4 bucks! 200 8 LED T10's for forty! Here's 100 BA9S for about 13. They use different part numbers than the original pinball part numbers but it takes 5 mins to learn a T10= a 47 type shape and the BA prefix indicates bayonet. Learn the models, the different LED models, ie 3528's, 1156's etc, the voltage requirements and stock up.
  16. I took delivery of a Full Throttle last week. Incredible shot range, speed, more speed. There is one shot which I believe to be the fastest in pinball - the "fast lap" shot. It has and killer soundtrack, it's really well themed and LED back lit panels on the side are killer. The light show is also superb as is the artwork package. The tech inside it what it should be - modern. Same with the cab styling -modern. It's not meant for folks who still think cricket bats can't be aluminium. Rule set is complex enough without being too hard to remember. The PF LCD is an absolute nesscesity - that's why it's there. You just don't get a moment to look up at the back box area when you are playing a ball - think MM busy-ness except on a wide body. It's well built - putting the cabinet work of my "late model" games to shame. The unconventional PF glass and frame grow on you very quickly. It great not needing 1.2m behind all of your games so you can get the glass off - this assembly just lifts up. It is heavy however. Mine is powder coated and will soon be chromed, along with all the trim. An off the shelf commercial 27" LCD panel from Alibaba is the go if you want one up the back but it's really only those not playing the ball who will look at it. I'll get one anyway just to follow the crowd. Plug it into the spare HDMI out. It has some teething as do all new games and new manufacturers. All small things which are easily addressed. Their tech support is outstanding - I've have a couple of these teething probs and they are dang quick and helpful. Agreed the amp is prone to RF hum but re-routing a couple of cables is not difficult nor time consuming nor is turning off your fluoro lights, and once the gain levels are set ther is no need to alter the setup, except alter the master. Whilst electrolytic caps do have a finite lifespan - sovlent and a salt, or 2 salts is benign, and that is if they do explode. Most often the simply dry out. Only time I've ever seen a cap explode was when it connected incorrectly. The lifespan of a modern electrolytic cap is 20 years plus. Considering this is a low temp environment they will not have a hard life. Don't confuse caps with alkaline batteries leaking acid on a MPU. It is worth understanding there have been several revision of this IO board, along with most things in the game, from Dev-Prod, so the design you see in the Pinball News site is clearly a Dev version. Remember, production really only kicked into gear 6 months ago - the design phase took 3.5 years. The mains are definately fused and there is an inline varistor. The use of ferrites minimize any toroid introduced RF hum. That said, it's only a power board that it's next to so minimum risk there. The screw terminations on the mains conductors are solid and not simply twisted wire. The earthing post has the appropriate spring and shake proof washers fitted. They are more than adequate for the amount of vibration a game such as this will endure which is not much - it's not travelling across the Nullabor twice weekly. If concerned put half a drop of Red Death on the post. The seal used for the panel is also more that adeqaute for the designed use. There are separate PSU terminal and main PCB covers - you cannot stick your hands in there. I have tried. This is definitely a game for those not wanting same old remake/reissue/outdated technology - this runs on a Debian distro, the boards are connected via USB cables, there are 2 HDMI port's on the puter'. It has wireless, 2 ethernet ports. There are no micro-switches anywhere except for the shooter lane. It uses a toroidal and and the boardset does not get hot. All boards are in the cab - none up the back. Honeymoon now over- this is the most fun/fast/cool pinball I've played. Style and substance. Pricing was a bit over the cost of a Stern Pro model but you are talking apples and oranges - calculator vs computer, and it is far better constructed than any of my modern Sterns. On par with the pre 2006 cabs.
  17. The BG is the best example beside the NOS one that Steve@MF has. I have seen it really is excellent. Look at the yellows in the ball no's down the bottom and the mirrorring on the display edges. V nice.. Check the 1-4 can play area - the gold leafing/lettering is still in place. If you are going to save a PF like Z's you deserve a good BG. as a square up.
  18. The one from Zax is on it's way to my place. It beat the "other" boutique game for my cash.
  19. Do you mean similar to these? http://www.aaarpinball.com/RoadShow/RoadShow.htm
  20. Dunno, but my experience has with KBS and decals has not been a +ve one, nor has my experience brushing/rolling/spraying the stuff. I have tried more than a few times. Dunno either but I would suggest it's the temp of the clear that melts 'em. I've also managed to melt using regular HS 2pac. Lets be honest, most repair guides and info are a deriviative from @vid1900 great info. What are you repairing? PM me a postal addy and I'll send you up a sheet of WS and some low tack mask.
  21. Yep they all melt under KBS whaterver the application method and this means more sanding and re-application. I find WS decals good for text and insert repairs but prefer the airbrush for most other repairs.
  22. One shot wonder game. Much else abounds at the optimistic ask of $3100.
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