Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×

drguild

Aussie Arcade Member
  • Posts

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by drguild

  1. Some extra work I did yesterday was I redid the input power wiring to be longer, used a proper screw terminal which I use threadlocker blue on put heartshrink the wires on and neatened that up.

    So where are things now.

    I need to remake the remapper box, ordered the new terminal blocks I'm getting two types to test and decide what's best to use but may take until February for shipping.

    I need some two part epoxy for covering the painted parts to seal the paint, not enough money spare until mid January.

    As well as a glue sealant for the subwoofer bracket to make it more sturdy and fill joins corners of the metal.

    Player two needs wiring once the remapper is made and I've started putting it in the cabinet.

    *Might rewire the whole CP to be better but don't know yet.

    Admin panel, coin slot, master switchboard etc

    These will be done as needed once I start semi properly rebuilding this.

    Wiring loom, I bought some jamma shells, but may just print my own with connector breakouts.

    Working out how to neatly rebuild this will come soon once this CP wiring is done.

    I still need to do the Aux harness cable and other wires breakouts as above.

    More connectors for Aux harness, extra breakouts etc, I'm awaiting for areas to be more polished so I know what I need as I'm getting from Digi-Key and want to buy them all together.

    This is the progress roadmap for the arcade.

    PC arcade box will be designed once the CP is wired up.

    Anything you want to discuss just ask, I can do videos about this as needed.

    • Like 1
  2. I did a bit more work today,

    Painted some things, I want to get some epoxy to coat the paint to stop it flaking and getting scratched off.

    Before.

    MVIMG_20231209_131334-01.jpeg.f8c84a2cb54947e18cf5175b96033736.jpegMVIMG_20231209_131327-01.jpeg.21e89820ef92c3f96d7f4151b5b92627.jpeg

    After with others.

    Also installed the inner bracket.

    MVIMG_20231209_132722-01.jpeg.298b47246209108c36e05d28d8d4cc41.jpegMVIMG_20231209_132653-01.jpeg.a5007a9eb2a00d31bfef8e69abd0b459.jpegMVIMG_20231209_112536-01.jpeg.1b8a1420563de5aa86761306132ad295.jpegMVIMG_20231209_111330-01.jpeg.74251bba485a5bab21c205d917f2ec2f.jpeg

    I also put some liquid nails on the insert of the subwoofer where the inserts are.

    MVIMG_20231209_111215-01.jpeg.e6794dc9e67e0df07c76da2a1b6dc6b6.jpeg

    The subwoofer bracket I'm going to get since glue either Sikaflex 217 or Sellys Flexseal so I can finish and run it in the edge gaps and the bracket overlays just to help make it structurally better and as a polishing on that bracket.

    The epoxy I'll coat the painted parts in as me l said above to help stop scratches and keep the paint sealed.

    Will be a while before I buy stuff as finances aren't great after purchasing a Bambu Labs P1S.  Will be using that to print stuff for this arcade going forward.

     

    Also started wiring up the wires into the remapper the sleeving doesn't go all the way to allow the wires to be changed around obviously.

    Got to do player two side soon.

    MVIMG_20231209_180813-01.jpeg.5bb2dabaea1c6d23ef784d47d6cba271.jpeg

    So for rebuilding I don't know how much work is left on the project, I would still need to work out a game shelf system, coin slot, internal lighting, admin panel etc

    I plan to work as I go doing what I can to get this playable.

    • Like 2
  3. Started doing more as I have the paint.

    Top image is internal CP connections, bottom is CP connections.

    Started painting brackets and wiring up the CP Bracket.

    Need to do the DB44 next.

    Switches are button 4/5 Aux top, Jamma bottom changeover.

    Probably add more connection holes as I go for the speaker and other plugs etc.

    MVIMG_20231117_120913-01.jpeg.c331916480dd2c3c1bad4043af4fcebc.jpegMVIMG_20231117_180931-01.jpeg.a4f2c7764a8c52543adf24bf15b7865f.jpeg

     

    • Like 1
  4. Got a good chunk done rotary and inputs p1 and p2 amps wired and sleeved today so that's finished and can't really do more till that paint comes.

    Then I'll need to buy more connectors from mouser to do the Aux wires I'll do once I have a decent parts list I'll temp wire the Aux until then.

    Also decided to order a replacement SCSI connector if that falls will be another plan.

    MVIMG_20231111_145912-01.jpeg.8adeaaa4362ec9190b35a0d0148d475f.jpeg

    • Like 1
  5. Spent a little today doing those 16 wires and sleeving them.

    I've ordered some Rusr-Oleum metallic aluminium colour paint to paint the brackets in the arcade as a few I cleaned were starting to tarnish rust with the oxygen.

    So I'll probably be awaiting those cans before doing much more wiring given I need to wire them through the brackets, though can wire up the 2 amp connectors next I need another set for the Aux harness.

    Still figuring out that SCSI connector if I just buy another it would be the same quality.

     

    So with the arcade work will continue bit by bit.

    Once the input wiring is done I'll be able to have updates on where the build will be focused on next.

  6. Found a pinnout for a scsi extension cable with colour coding.

    https://files.cablewholesale.com/pdfspecs/10n3-14106.pdf

    Twists are top and bottom so 1/35 and 34/68.
    I am thinking the best way to do the mapping should I keep row 1 for Player 1 and row 2 for player 2?
    This is what I tend to work using with other cables I'll need to untwist at the rotary end as I am thinking of offsetting P1 and P2 to each side of the rotary for easy future stuff so I'll need some slack.
    Unless I offset the rotary decks for deck 1 is P1 buttons 1-4 Deck 2 is P2 1-4 etc, this keeps the rows and twists together.
    Ideas?

  7. On 01/11/2023 at 9:11 PM, needlebat said:

    I've used PCB standoffs as replacements where I needed a bit of extra thread length. Also filed DB screws down to <.5mm

    Good luck selecting the right fix!

    Still pondering how to do this the best way.

    I have however mapped the rotary and just desoldered it in preperation for rewiring to the remapper box.

    image.png.7dbdbd372857c0754861102ac3a023fa.pngimage.png.4380e6a3e3099978d1cf13a6b83c099f.png

    • Like 1
  8. 26 minutes ago, needlebat said:

    I've removed broken-off thread with fine side-cutters, from rear, and jamming in front to get a compression fit before turning. Replacement screws to suit a DB9 are the same size?

    Replacement DB panel screw mounts aren't the same size unfortunately as they are larger as I have a zip bag of those.

    So trying to figure out the best option.

    If I could get smaller screw things would be fine.

    Or I could modify to the bigger DB ones and thread using a filter and screw to make the inner hole smaller.

    Or I could just use regular screws and ignore the connection screw.

    So not sure the best option.

  9. Started making a connector for the CP wiring.

    Have run into a issue I'll explain below.

    New CP bracket.

    I need to figure out the rotary pinnout.

    image.jpeg.69d8e104054d0b9806ce549a4757003f.jpeg

    New internal CP bracket which will be mounted under the monitor theres a lot of room for other connectors.

    My machanical skills suck but it will do the job.

    image.jpeg.28f1548cddd25c197256f93778ab7d4a.jpeg

    I got a SCSI 68 pin connector but the mounting front panel screws broke when I tried to tighten them any ideas what I can do?

    image.jpeg.28da0701b8bdc658b9e140f59bcf5126.jpeg

    I got a SCSI 68 pin extension I cut today which I will wire into the rotary switch it has twisted pairs so whats the best way to wire it as theres 2 players 4 maps is 36 wires + return to CP is 16 wires.

    image.jpeg.9c185b2b880ff23ffbed99059abef7d5.jpeg

    So this is where I am wondering about that connector with the broken screw mounts as well as looking at wiring up the rotary to the switcher and finally then I can start thinking about properly rebuilding and putting this thing back together adressing things they comes it way.

  10. The button remapper is underway with the customizable 4 to 1 joiner being done first.
    Only thing left is to finish designing and printing the housing and wire this up to a DB25.

    After this will be the rotary switch side what allows one to select 1 of the 4 maps to use.

    The remapper is fully customizable via these terminal blocks, to change any of the 4 mappings around to whatever you would like you just rearrange the wires going into these blocks.

    MVIMG_20230509_030511-01.jpg

    MVIMG_20230506_230254.jpg

  11. Switcher is scheduled for next month as I am getting a longer prototype board to have all mappings on the same board.

    But for now we have speaker party leds, should have programed it to show the Astro colors green and pink for the photo but was up like 36 hours yesterday until this morning sugar and adrenalin rush it seems.

    Can be fully controlled via a Android app its the SP608E 8 channel controller, I chose that due to the amount of individuals channels, that one can group channels together so they work in unison and other things.

    MVIMG_20230420_221057-01.jpeg

    • Like 1
  12. Printed the transformer mount.

    MVIMG_20230416_021832-01.jpeg.62fc6cf75868e835eec4154c1a669868.jpegMVIMG_20230416_021850-01.jpeg.ba803ec34ca908b13acbba5fe95e089b.jpeg

    One in black is ABS white is PLA I did as a test.

    The switcher will be coming soon when I get some heat inserts tomorrow on Monday, so after that I will be designing and printing a housing for the terminal.

    I ordered some wire from Jaycar their 8 colour 25m per colour rolls, getting two sets so 50m each colour for projects as I use wire quite a bit for this stuff and other things.

    So there's a plan to get this initially playable and basically wired up soon'ish and to go from there.

    • Like 2
  13. Awaiting the silicone for the led strip.

    Now I have the printer running continuing a test on the transformer mount.

    Also I am making a button remapper and wondering what I should use for the output connector to the buttons, I was thinking a DB25 though I only need 16 pins to go back to the controls. 8 buttons x2 players.

    Design is the rotary switch (probably a DB44 connector) will be the connection to ferruled wires that go into post box style terminal, shown below, so 4 of these 8 block terminals being the 4 customisable layout maps where you just change the wires around if needed.

    Then will be the plug I mentioned above I'm looking for ideas as the output to the buttons.

    I'll be designing and 3d printing a mount for this junction once I get a idea on how to build it and what plug I'll use as the output

     

    img_20221229_161627-01-jpeg.png

    Here's a flowchart of the design.

    The connector I need to make a decision is the button remapper to control panel.

    image.png.f182dba8317310ffa075ee747a389951.png

    • Like 2
  14. Just had a look on google and seems RTV Silicone is used and recommended for LED strips by different companies.

    Permatex does one that's LED compatible it seems.

    Found this which seems like a good deal and cheaper than the small paper packet tube so ordered.
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000HBNUFO?th=1
    Now to find a gun to use for it and other things if needed probably head to bunnings.

    • Like 1
  15. I installed the LED's behind the speaker grills.

    I need to work out what silicon I should get for helping to seal the strips between sections in the corners as you can see in the second installed image the corners there's nothing holding it, the strips themselves use double sided VHB tape on the strip sections.

    Looking at Bunnings etc there's soo many different types of silicon so any recommendations? I'll probably also need a gun dispenser thing for it.

    MVIMG_20230324_191929-01.jpeg

    MVIMG_20230325_001641-01.jpeg

    Next stage after this is the remapper which I have parts for I just need my 3d printer running to make a housing for the post box style terminal blocks.
    The remapper will go below the monitor and the rotary where the new control panel connector bracket will be.
    I also need to get some wires at different colours, I'll be sleeving them.

    IMG_20221229_161627-01.jpeg

    MVIMG_20221229_162433-01.jpeg

  16. 1 hour ago, Autosteve said:

    Re-tap the thread is the normal approach.

    You need a thread tap to suit the bolt and re-thread the nut.

    However

    If you can get a bolt started from the other side of the damaged nut, you may be able to use the bolt to re-thread the damaged section as it is usually only the first top couple of threads damaged.

    No guarantees this "however" method will work for you or if you can actually get a bolt in from that side in your application but it usually works when the application allows. ( and you don't have a suitable tap on hand)   

    Retapping is what I thought is M4

    Can't really get from the other side as the admin box is bonded on with Sikaflex and hex spacers with jbweld.

    Will have a look around for a m4 thread tap.

    Any recommendations?

×
×
  • Create New...