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buttersoft

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Everything posted by buttersoft

  1. Err, apologies if this has already been asked, but... Is there a member list now? I know the name of a member and i know the thread they posted in, but i can't find a way to list the posts they've made so i can find the particular post i want to reply to.
  2. Good thread. Or not good, because the commercialisation of community sentiment is the sort of thing only bottom-feeding scum would endorse, But heartfelt and sad to hear. I don't like/get pinball myself, but i do like most ppl on here. Watching the same thing happen to CRT's has been disheartening for me, so i sympathise.
  3. I'm going to go full pedant and say that those won't be earth wires, they'll be ground wires. An important distinction if you don't plan to kill yourself 😄 That said, ARE they earth wires? If they are really connected to mains earth, and things are sparking, you might have an earthing fault in your house wiring or even in the Earth-Neutral link out in the street.
  4. I don't believe that card would have a DVI-D port. But maybe i'm wrong. EDIT: no wait, if he says it has one DVI port, it has to be DVI-I 🙂
  5. According to the service manual, that TV is from 1998, so it should handle both PAL and NTSC resolutions just fine. The ideal resolution to run a game at is the one the game was intended for. Most old Arcade games and consoles up to the 6th gen used 240p or thereabouts. So 240p is important. The guide i wrote contains a link to the guide Calamity provided for setting up your crt_emudriver install and adding modelines for any card of the HD 5000 generation or newer. Follow that guide TO THE LETTER from start to finish. The only exception being that when setting up GroovyMAME, you want to change the super width variable to 2560 in your mame.ini. A DVI-I port with a passive VGA dongle becomes a VGA port.
  6. Also, this forum is based in Aus. We welcome members from everywhere, and if someone who can help spots your post i'm sure they will. But at the same time, a lot of the monitor hardware used in the USA/Europe is different to what was used here. We don't get much WG stuff, for example.
  7. Yeah, i did take a look at the code in MPLAB IDE, but i had to study tutorials to even get the original code to compile. And any changes i make just fall over. I might come back to it some day... Glad to hear it worked tho 🙂
  8. It's not going to be easy finding a transformer to physically fit, i reckon. It will need to be the right size unless you mount it externally. What you want is a transformer that is going to step down to the right voltage - so, 12VAC? Have you measured the voltage over the output of the current T101 transformer? And the new one would also need to handle the same or higher power draw. And if you look at the parts list you posted, there are a few capacitors you might need to look at as well. It's going to be easier just using a step-up transformer to get 220/240VAC into them... but you'd be doing something like that already, to test them?
  9. @Arcade King IDK, sorry. I checked a few threads, that crosscode review in particular, but i edited that OP when it looked like the old version was never coming back. So now the edited version is there. I can't think of any more threads to try. There were a few with empty posts, but i can't remember which ones 😕
  10. Welcome to AA! A PS3 is a great way to watch anime on a CRT. No problems there. This thread is really only about connecting a Windows 7 or 10 PC to an old CRT, so you won't find anything about the PS3 here :)
  11. Or get an old CRT TV and hack RGB into it yourself, with the help of the good ppl on the shmups forum :)
  12. I have a spare plug with lead already attached. The plug has been broken for the classic swap trick, but should work fine. It's from a TV though, so the wires are thinner than an old arcade chassis. Want it?
  13. I'll try to remember to check my CRT spares when i get home. What exactly do you want to do with it? Do you have the tools to remove the pins, etc? Just asking, as i don't, which makes it a pain to modify/use these plugs, so it was generally easier to make adapters.
  14. Hmmm, i've not heard of the complete iso's being around. Would you be able to recreate an iso from the dumps? You could test the process with ABC, i guess.
  15. Pinging @MarkOZLAD, who might ask you to take a look at the RGB mod thread on the Shmups forums (which sadly won't let you search for BG-3S). Essentially you want to read up on the Mux method MArkozlad and sytnax developed, and find their calculator spreadsheet in the thread above. Then find out any quirks about rgb modding the BG-3S chassis.
  16. Probably not, if the damage is as pictured. But the rear case is also the entire support when lifting, so it would pay to be sure. If you do find someone splitting a non-working 2730 for parts, let me know. I want a few bits out of the insides myself :)
  17. Shipping might be expensive. This forum is in Australia, though we get ppl from all over stopping by. TBH all the 2730's i have are cracked around that area, so i think it's pretty common. You'd want to make sure the case you have is sound enough to lift the set by, going forward, of course.
  18. Welcome to AA :) TBH these sets are at minimum about 25 years old. From experience with about seven or eight different units i can tell you yours is in excellent condition from that screenshot. It's not possible to get any CRT completely perfect, and the larger and older it is, the harder it generally gets. I would say you won't be able to do better than that geometry. Definitely time to enjoy what you've got :) @ducvo did you open up yours and take a look at things?
  19. Welcome to AA, and thanks for posting up in here :) Opening a PVM-2730 isn't too hard. When you look at the back, it has ten #2 phillips screws you need to undo to slide the case off. One is just under the dials on the back at the top, one is just above the inputs near the bottom (both in the middle of the set). The other eight are in groups of two at each corner just around where the solid housing begins and the handles start. See the red dots on the pic below. Once undone, the whole section with the handles will slide out backwards. It might be stuck, so wiggle it a bit first, firmly if required. The remaining CRT section has all the weight but less of the stability, so consider doing this whole process on the floor. To get the case back on you may need to rock the bezel-section very slightly forward so the lower board clears the rear case. Geometry adjustments need to be made with the set running, of course. You won't need to stick your hands into the set itself for any of the adjustments described in this post, everything can be reached from the outside. There are still live voltages exposed, so don't lean on the set, don't let things fall on it, and don't touch things you don't need to. And remember that parts of a CRT can be dangerous for weeks or years after you turn the power off. Once the case is off, the D3 board is the one you want to be looking at for the pincushion. Be aware the set will work at both 50Hz and 60Hz refresh rates (whether PAL/NTSC or RGB). There are semi-separate controls for both, and you need to calibrate both if you want to use both. I say semi-separate as the controls for one mode do affect the other. Take a photo of the positions of the pots first - they have little yellow heads on them, most of the time, which often fall off but don't be concerned. You can press them back on when the set is off if you want to. Before making adjustments, show one mode first, then the other. Then set one mode, then the other, and then go back to the first, and swapping until you get things as close to perfect as you can for your use case(s). Sadly these adjustments are not covered in the service manual, but they are labelled (like PIN50 or PIN60) and twiddling the pots is pretty easy. You may actually want to set the screen size and position first. This is done on the D board, from the back (You're looking at the back when it's in it's normal position). The adjustments are made through the little marked holes with a thin flat-end screwdriver like a jeweler's screwdriver. Something with a plastic handle is going to be best. There are dangerous voltages elsewhere on the back of the D board, so keep your hands to yourself. The adjustments you want are in Section 4, Circuit Adjustments (page 19) of the service manual. From memory that shows a front view, and you're looking from the back. Take a good look while everything is powered off, stick a screwdriver in and feel the pot move, etc. Then power up and go for it. Size may change slightly between 50/60Hz too, but it shouldn't be a massive jump. https://archive.org/details/sony_PVM...e/n17/mode/2up That should cover the worst of the issue in your picture. I don't think that green line on the side is anything to worry about by itself, and definitely not if it ends up offscreen. If the geometry adjustments don't cover the problem we'll take things from there, if possible :) I do notice some dynamic (i.e. corner) convergence issues in those photos, but I've only seen one of these sets that didn't have that. It can sometimes be minimised by the adjustments on the D2 board, but that's a bit more complicated. I'm happy to post up separately about that, but if you're going to touch that, make sure to take a clear photo of the pots first, before you play with things.
  20. hahaha. Right, i'll go break something... back in two
  21. So there aren't any new posts in there since 23rd Feb? That's weird in itself :)
  22. I've got a weird issue that might not actually be an issue. I keep seeing that the monitor and chassis repair help subforum has new posts (the icon is blue) but when i go in, there's only posts from February. Have i set something wrong?
  23. Got my son watching the '86 movie the other day! He's seen it like five times now :D
  24. Ppl may be aware that one of the members on here, Zebidee, with a bit on input from DekDek, has been working on a new RGB-to-YPbPr converter called GreenAntz. It's been in development for some time, through a couple of rolling prototype stages, but he's arrived at a finished product. I was lucky enough to score one to help out with testing, and wrote up a review on the Shmups forum. https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68329&p=1448975#p1448975 Zeb is taking orders if anyone is looking! It's a great unit, I don't think you can get anything better for the asking price.
  25. Well, secretly i can't believe the OP didn't get a bit more love, but... gm_matthew now has all model 3 games networking, save for Dirt Devils (slightly different netboard integration, coming soon) and Sega Rally 2 (emulation problems with SR2 netboard setup in supermodel itself, may eventually be fixable but no ETA). EDIT: and now it seems Dirt Devils is ready to go as well. Spikeout still has possible comms errors, but might work ok.
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