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Everything posted by qwertylesh

  1. That's a sick cartridge bro. Great tunes! I got myself a 161-in-1 AES cart: a C64 SD2IEC: a ZX Spectrum: 2 days ago i drive to the other side of the city and picked up a nice PS1 Games bundle A few Gameboys And not really retro but I setup a nice looking stand for my Switch games 🙂
  2. heyo, is pickup possible, if so whats the postcode?
  3. Gah how did i miss this thread. Adi mate hmu here or on ocow if you are planning to part with any other aes carts.
  4. wow dude, there's some sick gems you got there. the nomad and the wondermega are incredible!
  5. You should find that most matx of the era fit the criteria. with two caveats: 1 -determine and stick to a LGA775 mobo has the same common integrated chipset of the existing mobo (i.e, intel/via/nvidia etc - northbridge & standard sata controller south bridge) - The tl;dr is big difference in chipsets is a hassle due to how unique the arcade winOS's are. ( Its very likely to be intel based. ) Long winded explainer for the basis of point 1 below, feel free to ignore it. 2 - Ensure the new one has PS/2 output. - based on that the jamma board is wired into it, I wouldn't be confident the functionality you'd lose by not integrating the ps/2 isn't essential, so just got with one that has it. ------ point 1 extended explainer: This is in consideration of the customized OS's driver ability. i.e, mobo transplant from a Windows that had say a Intel based HAL OS install onto say a VIA chipset most often bsod's on boot and not an easy fix given the games family winOS has a customized shell process. Further to that; in-place repair installation, meaning you'd have to extract the Key from the SOFTWARE sam hive externally first and other fun time wasting workarounds needed, then re-import registry modifications to the OS shell (this is where it gets into hassle territory, since while the mamep frontend is very customizable, its structured like a pain in the ass with the volume shadows and shit - if it's anything like my ones)
  6. oh it didnt have a cr2032! it's sounding like that motherboard is toast. if you can source an equivalent that has ps/2 you could solder over the ps/2 cable, see what else might be soldered directly to the board, i think most things are just glued but some of the ps/2 pins could be soldered on the underside.
  7. ontop of that, i was advising off the premise that your board is not powering on at all (no cpu heatsink fan spinning) or anything. which is why i was saying you'd probably haveto try pc / jamma boards seperated, so you can press pw_sw with the pc board isolated, to really know if the mainboard is faulty. the grey cables that pair the boards together that are soldered to the motherboard should disconnect on the jamma side, you'd have to label and photograph everything, to reconnect it back correctly later. if fans are spinning tho and its soft powering with no post, then thats another matter, that'll be just as jbtech outlines.
  8. Ahh man that sucks. 😞 All of the wires that run to the jamma pcb are unpluggable? if they are, you can disconnect the pc motherboard from it completely(but gently those gray cables are a bit flimsy), and then you could try powering up the pc platform like any other computer, running the psu directly to the 24 + 4 atx, and shorting the pw_sw switch. That way youll know if the pc parts are dead or whether its actually some problem with the jamma pcb. besides that last resort attempt, i don't think there's much you can do, if you did try it and the pc wont power up when separated from the jamma pcb, then you could go the route of resoldering all of the connectors to another compatible motherboard and firing it up (under the assumption that the jamma pcb is fine), but if the PC motherboard did fire up in this test it would confirm that the jamma pcb might be broken.
  9. Hey, acronis usually supports a live environment through USB boot media, which tends to work the best. It seems like the ssd only had 2 partitions? I would have expected it to have three, the several images I've got have a C, D and one without a letter called RXC_Service. Macrium image file screenshot looks like it should be right as long as the ssd really does only have two partitions, and since its backed up with intelligent sector copy mode, it should mean if you restored to another disk, that one should boot (same as cloning). I hope you backed the image up to a separate disk, than the arcades disk. From the images you shared of the games family hardware, it all looks right, I can see the pins going to pw_sw and also the 5v and ps2 wiring, it all looks to be correct, just some of the jamma pcb layout is slightly different to mine. Its peculiar that the pc components don't power up, if the cpu is cooked that may be the cause, but chances are greater that the pc motherboard is the problem. (I dont see any bulging capacitors in the photos tho, so that's a good sign)
  10. So, mines designed when the arcade unit is plugged to the wall, the system turns on automatically after about 2 seconds time. if its plugged in and soft-shutdown, the power needs to be turned off to the unit and back on again for the PC side to fire back up. So when its plugged to wall power, and the killswitch on the back of my Arcade is on - power gets delivered to an built in a powerboard which runs a stepdown transformer for the screen and also to the PC PSU. PSU's kill switch is always on. - A 20 pin extender runs from the PSU's 24pin ATX cable into the PC motherboard, breaking out from that 20pin extender are a few things: - a 12v molex power going directly to my hdd. - a +5v two wire line that goes into a +5v port on the Jamma board - a green line that also goes from the 20pin ATX extender to the PS/2 wiring on the Jamma board (this same PS/2 connector also solders to the PS2 ports on the underside of the PC motherboard. The PW_SW is in use on the motherboard, and it appears that this plus another few pins from the motherboard run to a connector on the underside of the Jamma PCB right in the corner near the Jamma connector. When the power goes to the PSU > through the ATX extender > it's also sending some standby power to the Jamma PCB (5v and PS/2 lines) the jamma PCB is then triggering the motherboard PW_SW pins, telling the PC motherboard to power up. So is your PC motherboard PW_SW and CMOS wired and glued in like mine? Does your PC motherboard use a 20pin ATX extender and does it tap into 5V and PS/2 ? If the Jamma PCB on yours is controlling your PC's PW_SW pin, you can short those top view ("PWR") pins to issue a soft-poweron to the PC motherboard. I hope this helps
  11. I'll take a closer look at mine, to determine what is triggering the power on switch. From memory i thought the motherboard conenctor pw_sw pins were not in use and that it was powering up from the 24 pin ATX. but I'll double check mine, we can compare mine to yours and figure out why the PC mobo isnt firing up for you. I know it can be frustrating I really hope you revive the old games family, its a good platform imo, but steep learning curve
  12. Regarding the troubleshooting, it may be worth trying another power supply. these games familiy are meant to modified to automatically power the PC components up when power is supplied at the wall. (that's how mine works at least tho mine is a much older version) Instead of a torrent, a google drive link might be easier to sort out, tho uploading a solid 12 or so gb can take a while. about the plug, it should be disconnectable without a problem, they should have a latch on one side, so you know which way they plug back together.
  13. Hey that's great news the disk is ok. Just a few things to note though. The rar is only capturing the one volume, its also writing back to that disk the way your archiving it. The disk will have 3 partitions, one is likely hidden the other is a shadow copy partition, so it's better if you image the entire ssd into an ISO or similar format (ie. TIB would be the format if you image the whole drive with acronis.) By capturing the whole disk as an image (which you can exclude empty space from the capture so it wont be 64gb in the end) you will have a file you could write back to any other disk and those next disks will be bootable. If you were to only re-extract your archive to some new disk, it wont boot since it doesnt capture any of the bootable or hidden stuff (the partitions mentioned earlier, and the boot sector, master boot record, etc)
  14. Yeah, I've taken mine a part before, you just unscrew the top columns and carefully unplug everything from that top board to access the underside. I believe each of the connectors are one way only, but to be sure its a good idea to take photos and memorize the direction of any of the connectors you unplug so it can be put back the same way.
  15. Yes its not much cost for you to swap the 775 mATX motherboard, CPU, ram all out at once, and see if it then fires up. At least in my country, I could easily find this sort of platform, that era of computing is essentially cheap e-waste currently. It looks complicated but its just two types of boards integrated together, with a OS image (custom mame loader shell) setup to work with it . there are arcade images out there if the SSD does turn out to be dead (but if it was only a dead SSD then you would get some display output, your ssd is probably ok) Yes of course, you can get a USB Encoder, something like the iPAC 4 ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/254210580437 ) I would love to get a copy of the 3500-in-1 SSD image if you ever decide to make a backup from that SSD. If you try resurrecting it in its current form, I know from experience that while the software customization has a tough learning curve, the hardware isn't too daunting once you know what each bit is doing and how it all meshes together. there used to be more resources for games family tech online @MaNiAc-Uk had a forum dedicated to it, but it's long gone now. and @Jed has some experience with these platforms too.
  16. I can see in the picture also that your games family PC is an LGA775 motherboard, so it's probably a Core2Duo or similar system. Since the video output is direct, chances are that it is indeed the pc thats broken, you should be able to repair it, you can if youre confident take apart the top jamma board off the pc. I've done it for mine a few times, when i upgraded CPU and ram. 🙂
  17. Hey! ours are different. my onboard VGA passes through my jamma board, and through the jamma harness to my CRT. It looks like yours just has that black cable which probably goes to your arcade screen. So the jamma PCB is not involved with the video signal at all on yours. you can try running that black cable to another system to confirm that your arcade screen works.
  18. In my earlier post, I shared a photo showing my HDD mounted to my Jamma PCB. In that picture theres two small square Green PCBs, the lower one is a VGA ribbon plugged to the PC's vga output, if yours is the same, you could test any other VGA output to that PCB to confirm the games family board is passing video signal from that ribbon to the jamma output to the display. (and if that works, then you know its something exclusively on the PC side - which means you can choose to swap the whole pc mobo to another cheap one if you like) if that VGA doesnt work through the jamma then you know that the issue is less likely to be the PC hardware and more likely anywhere between that little VGA pcb - the jamma PCB - the jamma connector to the arcades display. They can be a bit of a pain to troubleshoot, as you need to be able to place hardware close nearby the assembly to test. an M-F VGA cable would make it alot easier to test another display output setup closeby. The ribbon cabling there is not great quality, so be aware that it's fragile enough to fray easily. (just use caution when unplugging it and moving it around)
  19. regarding the games family. the top pcb (the actual games family jamma pcb) should be swappable, there may be slight hw revisions but they should generally function all the same really. the lower board (the pc parts) are all swappable with parts matching similar generation, you could even replace it with completely brand new stuff, the only main consideration to take into account is whether the custom OS can support the different driver change (think Drive Controller chipset) - this core reason is why mines stuck as a Pentium 4 (the Win2k mine is built upon doesn't support Sata drivers) Yours seems newer since it looks like yours is Sata SSD already, so I'd say that the PC hardware is all replace-able you shouldn't run into issues with that regard. Same goes with the top PCB, I see no reason why that wouldn't be replace-able.
  20. I'm fairly sure the debug board is breaking out for the P3 and P4 controls. I have the same board, but since my arcade is 2p control deck, it never needed to have the debug board and ribbon wired to the jamma like yours has 🙂 heres a photo of how bad the button cell had gotten 😆 https://imgur.com/GBPUpq2 (i forgotten) but looking over some of my old pics when I worked on my arcade, originally the drive in mine was also mounted to the jamma PCB Heres some pics when i did work on my https://imgur.com/JiusY7m (uv damage original art) - mockups https://imgur.com/2rnciAx / https://imgur.com/yumgqOd - restored= https://imgur.com/xGTmmqQ I hope you can get yours working again. I'd suspect if you can confirm the 3 partitions are present on the SSD and the two with volume letters aren't corrupt, then it may be a problem with the pc components, and those are easy enough to fix up 🙂
  21. Ah understood, mine originally had glued in ram (hot glue) it wasnt too bad to remove, mine originally it also had a rusty bios battery, and the cpu socket had a crack in it. you could take the whole games family out, and sit it beside another system, running the sata data and power to the drive. If that 64gb ssd is still healthy and dumpable, its worth making an image of, games family images are hard to come by.
  22. I have a games family 3k-in-1 but unfortunately its a much older IDE based one and I don't believe the Chinese win2k supports booting from sata natively for my image, your 3.5k in one looks to be a much newer version. Have you checked if the SSDs filesystem enumerates as a secondary disk in another system? (as long as you make sure to avoid writing back toward the drive, it should be ok to check in another system, this is my preferred method to clone, backup image and also to even modify my games family OS)
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