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ocyen

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Everything posted by ocyen

  1. Awesome work. I supply a couple of machines to a special needs school for their Christmas celebrations every year. The kids go nuts over them. And the staff play them just as much as the kids!
  2. I looked all over for some slingshot armatures while restoring my Stars but came up empty. I ended up using Gottlieb slingshot armatures which I haven't installed yet, but they look like they should work well. Might be worth a try if you can't get original Stern ones.
  3. So Stern won't give out the info over the phone, but has it freely available on their website?
  4. You can also grab these from local pinball suppliers (https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/molex-0-156-9-pin-connector-housing/) You'll probably need to change the header pins, too (https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/molex-0-156-idc-9-pin-connector-locking-header/)
  5. Sad news. It was one of my pinball life goals to go over there and see the collection one day. Alas, it wasn't to be...
  6. I took a shot of that area when I last tore my machine down. Disassembly pics are here: https://www.afpinball.com/restorations/judge-dredd There should be two black plastic posts and two metal posts. Looks like you only have one of each.
  7. I replaced the castors on my Daytona twin and ordered too many. I have 4 left so up they go for sale. These will suit USA cabinets; the mounting plate is compatible with the original USA cab mounting holes. They will not fit Jap cabinets. Not sure about LAI. These castors are much bigger and stronger than the original ones so as a result the cab sits a little higher, but it glides much more easily.3" polyurethane wheel with 100kg load capacity each. Much better on rough surfaces or carpets. Selling as a set of 4 for $40. Postage at cost or pickup from Campbelltown 2560.
  8. Yeah! This ended up being caused by wear on the perspex "rail" that the ball travels on, sending the ball in weird directions. Reshaping it solved the problem.
  9. They stole my idea :lol I've taken a lot of slow mo videos to troubleshoot and better understand how mechanisms work. I've uploaded them all to Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ7...17dF4PA/videos
  10. Yep. Set multimeter to VAC. Place one probe on the coloured wire and the other on the same coloured wire with white stripe. Should read about 6-8 VAC.
  11. There are a couple of others: https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=totan%20decal%20site%3Amrpinball.com.au
  12. I replaced one of these for a customer who wanted it kept original for some reason. New ballast was $60.50 and starter was $4.40 from AMD. Tube was sourced from Bunnings.
  13. Wow, shipping prices seem quite reasonable now. This is going to be a boon for the hobby here. However their USD/AUD conversion is not particularly favourable so you're still paying a premium for the parts themselves compared to buying them locally.
  14. Did some research on this when I was working on a TOTAN earlier this year. Mr Pinball has the most complete set of decals available locally.
  15. The pinouts at J120 and J121 are identical so the connectors can be swapped between them. One supplies the backbox (2 strings) and another supplies the playfield (3 strings). Your main issue sounds like no power on one string. Make sure the connectors are in good condition and the fuses are all intact. You might have to inspect the header pins on the board also.
  16. Yep, that's a job for a welder. Any place that deals with metal can do this.
  17. Is this the one you were looking at? http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Twilight_Zone_Tech_Chart.pdf Inkochnito's charts are usually more correct than the originals. What issues did you have with them previously?
  18. Hi guys About to move my Daytona into the new shed but want to replace the castor wheels and leg levelers before doing so, so I don't ruin the new floor. I notice Zax has original castors but I can't find the levelers anywhere. Any tips? Thanks in advance.
  19. I have seen these on multiple displays; seems to be a relatively common hack.
  20. F113 fuses your 5 volt circuit. If the fuse was blown then that is why the machine wasn't booting up. Never short circuit a fuse holder; always use some kind of over-current protection. If you have a fault such as a larger voltage shorting across a component on the 5 volt circuit, you'll send that higher voltage through low-voltage components further down the line, potentially destroying them. Start looking at the components on the 5 volt circuit. Also check your connectors and associated header pins, namely J101.
  21. Maybe so, but if you get the chance to pick up an IJ for $150 then maybe it's worth the risk! Even a scammer wouldn't price it that low.
  22. Out of interest, which adhesive remover did you use?
  23. Looks like LED4 is not lit, so you don't have 5v. Did you try reseating every connector on the power driver board? If so, might be time for board refurbishment as already suggested.
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